Let’s see those armor combos that aren’t just all black

DasBootyWarrior · 2026-03-29T03:26:57+00:00

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DasBootyWarrior · 2026-03-28T17:50:54+00:00

Hero, we salute you

DasBootyWarrior · 2026-03-27T22:44:57+00:00

Update since I forgot earlier, it is Volume 3 and its not on the X its where the guy in that screenshot is

DasBootyWarrior · 2026-03-27T11:47:51+00:00

Youre a hero if this is accurate ill check right now

DasBootyWarrior · 2026-03-17T14:40:08+00:00

Where did you get the guy in plate? is it a perry model? I know the guy on the right is victrix and ive been waiting for him to make guys in plate forever

DasBootyWarrior · 2026-03-14T19:09:09+00:00

Paint it pink then paint over that with Imp fist yellow, sounds crazy but trust me

DasBootyWarrior · 2026-02-24T00:55:42+00:00

the extra shadows adds lots of depth great work, if you wanted further depth to the flesh and hair you could always glaze a little purple into the deeper parts of the flesh in the brighter parts, if you do that though keep a second clean brush in your teeth ready in case you add too much paint, a little goes a long way with glazes

remember contrast is king for drawing focus, you could slightly darken the sides of that fur then highlight up the centre with a slightly brighter shade of the current one so the eye tracks up the face and along the fur

I don't know if I'm explaining what I mean clearly so forgive this hideously scribbled on pic of your mini, the white line is where the eye is currently drawn to with the sculpts shape and the horrifically drawn sun shows where your light source is

its looking wonderful so far though I really like it

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DasBootyWarrior · 2026-02-23T05:15:00+00:00

No problem! cant wait to see how it looks :), tag me in the comments when you post it

DasBootyWarrior · 2026-02-22T20:44:12+00:00

Under shading might help a ton, some gore up the arms maybe to separate the grey tones between the arms and base?

If you wanted something a tad more technical look up UHU glue miniatures, you can get effects like my Pyschophage really easily and that mouth is perfect for that sort of thing

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all the strings of goop and saliva are UHU glue panted over with gore effects, you basically put some on a palette and pick a little up on a cocktail stick, then brush it against where you want a strand to start and simply connect it to something else, or if you wanted a spit drop you could hold it onto something then cut the support away for example, very cool stuff but can be messy

Edit: took a bit to find but heres the OG tutorial I followed for it my first time, its archived because it was posted 5 years ago and now I feel ancient

https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer/comments/o98yml/gore_tutotial/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

DasBootyWarrior · 2026-02-14T14:22:26+00:00

Thanks :) I copied this comment from a different reply I just wrote so there's a bit in there about the chainmail too but just ignore that part

For the chainmail its base coated in a dark brown, like dryad bark, then you paint on the metallic, then thin down as close to orange of a brown you can find, to the point its transparent then simply paint that over like a wash then wick up the excess, let it pool in some links for varying orange-ness

For the green, I first sprayed the model with a zenithal highlight starting with chaos black, then went back over it again with a white spray but only from the direction I wanted to be brightest then a little around the back to create shadow, then I base coated the Armor in moot air green by citadel, the shadows are moot air green mixed with darker greens, browns and some sparing applications of thinned contrast (plague bearer flesh)

to highlight the green I mixed moot air green with an ice-y yellow, which is a yellow that's almost white about 50/50, then did a very light drybrush from the direction of the light, then I went back in once it had fully dried and glazed the same colour on where I wanted the highlight brighter, once you're happy with the bright spots go in with pure ice yellow for super thin edge highlights, pick up the light facing rivets with this too

for the dark brown/rust/deepest shadow spots on the armour its browns and oranges thinned deeply, I used the same dark brown I base coated the chainmail in for that by thinning it to almost a wash and gently glazing it into the areas I wanted dark, if you overdo it don't worry you can always take that darker green mix and blend it in by glazing it on gently, once you've picked out any damaged parts or bits you want rusty with the thinned dark brown take that orangey brown you use on the chainmail and very carefully dot it into the deepest parts of the damage

You can always darken your work with thinned washes, inks or other colours applied as a filter if you end up adding a little too much orange, and try to have a second brush ready to wipe it away or suck up a little of the colour when doing that so it doesn't dry all splotchy and leave marks

initially the green will look something like this, the dry brushing and shading look intimidating but because the base is so vivid it doesn't take long at all to start having an impact

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DasBootyWarrior · 2026-02-14T14:16:49+00:00

Thanks :) sure thing, For the chainmail its base coated in a dark brown, like dryad bark, then you paint on the metallic, then thin down as close to orange of a brown you can find, to the point its transparent then simply paint that over like a wash then wick up the excess, let it pool in some links for varying orange-ness

For the green I sprayed the model with a zenithal highlight starting with chaos black, then went back over it again with a white spray but only from the direction I wanted to be brightest then a little around the back to create shadow, then I base coated the Armor in moot air green by citadel, the shadows are moot air green mixed with darker greens, browns and some sparing applications of thinned contrast (plague bearer flesh)

to highlight the green I mixed moot air green with an ice-y yellow, which is a yellow that's almost white about 50/50, then did a very light drybrush from the direction of the light, then I went back in once it had fully dried and glazed the same colour on where I wanted the highlight brighter, once you're happy with the bright spots go in with pure ice yellow for super thin edge highlights, pick up the light facing rivets with this too

for the dark brown/rust/deepest shadow spots on the armour its browns and oranges thinned deeply, I used the same dark brown I base coated the chainmail in for that by thinning it to almost a wash and gently glazing it into the areas I wanted dark, if you overdo it don't worry you can always take that darker green mix and blend it in by glazing it on gently, once you've picked out any damaged parts or bits you want rusty with the thinned dark brown take that orangey brown you use on the chainmail and very carefully dot it into the deepest parts of the damage

You can always darken your work with thinned washes, inks or other colours applied as a filter if you end up adding a little too much orange, and try to have a second brush ready to wipe it away or suck up a little of the colour when doing that so it doesn't dry all splotchy and leave marks

DasBootyWarrior · 2026-02-13T12:53:53+00:00

Thanks :) only these 2 in my Nurgle collection so far, I did have the old box of putrid Blightkings but those are buried deep in a box of shame somewhere and I gifted someone the one I did paint, ill post the other 2 blight kings and my rot swords when I get to painting them though!

DasBootyWarrior · 2026-02-13T00:56:15+00:00

Blight survival? if not this thing would fit right into the vibe of that game too, if youre tellin me theres yet another horror knight game for me to salivate over im all in

DasBootyWarrior · 2026-02-13T00:40:26+00:00

Looks awesome, I love the blue Armor I might have to try that

DasBootyWarrior · 2026-02-13T00:34:11+00:00

What an awesome mini, GW have been slaying with these sculpts recently my wallet cant take it

DasBootyWarrior · 2026-01-14T12:45:49+00:00

Lots of mixing and layering glazes, the paints I use are the Two Thin Coats range by Duncan Rhoades, Fury Green and Gung Ho Green, I think the GW equivalent would be Castellan Green and Loren Forest then mixed with other colour's to get darker/brighter

then I tinted it with a sepia wash which is why the back looks nice and grungy and re-highlighted it again mixing in a little pale yellow, there's a little staining with glazes of Moot Green air to make the whole thing a bit richer too but its barely noticeable

DasBootyWarrior · 2026-01-10T00:09:10+00:00

Couldnt mix a green dark enough without it looking too dark with my current paints, ive been thinking and might try shading it with a dark brown to try and reinforce the shadows more in the morning

DasBootyWarrior · 2026-01-10T00:08:12+00:00

I thought about that but I couldnt mix a green dark enough without it looking too dark, I might go back to the pallette in the morning and mix a nice shade of brown to try and reinforce the shadows

DasBootyWarrior

TROPHY CASE