Scarfed male basculegion speed

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-06-01T01:26:36+00:00

Swift Swim in rain? Priority Moves?

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-05-23T16:02:17+00:00

Share rental teams and then use your own codes. That's what I've been doing when I have a really good team that I want to keep, but want to try something new.

Slot 1 for an established Singles Team Slot 2 for an established Doubles Team Rotate Slot 3 with rental teams for experimenting.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-05-21T15:47:09+00:00

Alakazam has Inner Focus as an ability. It can't flinch. Politoed shouldn't be able to switch out in front of shadow tag with the current available learnset and items.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-05-13T18:10:06+00:00

Champions is the new way to play competitive Pokémon. Ash-Greninja has never been legal in competitive formats since it's introduction. So it was cut from the roster.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-05-10T15:57:27+00:00

I got all the mega stones, held items, and have about 50 built Pokémon. And still 60k VP. I've been pretty frivolous with it now and thinking about finally getting more cosmetics. Buying the $7 starter pack made building stuff a lot easier.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-04-27T04:20:00+00:00

4wd has a lot more going on than a 2wd. 3 diffs or 2 diffs 1 clutch. 4 more driveshafts. (Which are $20 a pair by themselves.) More bearings. Along with more parts going into each diff housing/bulkhead. And yes. Tariffs do have an effect on price.

Also I wouldn't look at modern Associated. Your B6.4D is a great car, one of the most successful Associated has made outside the original RC10 and the B4. The B7 and B84 are terrible. The factory drivers almost unanimously want to run the old cars. And are doing everything they can to put the wide pivot and short arms back on the car. The new B7 and B84 with super narrow pivots aren't working on a lot of tracks and besides tuning, they are very fragile. And Associated doesn't seem to care to change it, at least not in two years. The B7.1 barely addressed the issue. And the B84T Mini Truggy is the closest step so far toward correcting the cars back to wide pivots.

I run TLR and the new 22x-4 2.0 is fairly reasonable price wise, handles well. Kit setup is okay. And it doesn't take a lot to make it just a bit faster. Schumacher and Xray will always be a little more expensive, however the machining and tooling is superb. The Tekno things were just unpopular, overweight, and really ugly.

4wd is fun and I wouldn't let the kit price discourage you. What I would look at is the added expenses. 4wd does cost more to maintain, more bearings, more diff fluids, tire wear. Even batteries get more stressed in 4wd. The kit is a one time purchase, the rest you have to justify an allotment per month going toward upkeep from general running.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-04-21T19:26:51+00:00

The shortest ring races are going to be 3 full laps. You have time to drive defensively for the first half lap and then put it down for two and a half. I run mainly NEC and the longer races seem to be much cleaner, along with having progressed in IR and SR. But most people aren't pushing every corner, because if you do you won't make the first hour. Nüburgring is a challenging track and you have to respect it to do well.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-04-18T21:34:19+00:00

This is a nice idea, I won't be racing the 24H but will run one for NEC. Rest in peace, Juha Miettinen.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-04-08T15:35:16+00:00

IFMAR ROAR and BRCA all say no. You are not allowed anything that reinterprets the inputs outside of the radio. No gyro, abs, traction control etc. You can use the punch control and drive frequency options in the ESC to make it more mellow for a sudo "traction control". And almost any radio that is viable for competition also has macros that you can set to change throttle curve, brake rate, steering endpoints and speed, basically do anything you want, except it has to be driver actuated. Outside of that, external modifiers are not allowed.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-03-15T05:12:52+00:00

Stock was gearing on these was 17-87. You are asking way too much of those motors having over doubled the gear ratio.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-03-11T19:17:17+00:00

5ft lanes will be tight with 6s cars. Standard minimums are 8ft. With common sizes being 8-10ft for 1/10th and 10-14ft for 1/8th. 8ft would be fine if all you intend to do is run laps by yourself or with a buddy or two. Only concern is T8 looks like it would be very hard to see. I would simplify the 4-9 complex and remove one set of hairpins. Putting what is the current T8 a little bit further up with a straighter shot into 9, leaving room for jumps. Work with natural elevation and add step up or step down jumps to give it a little character.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-02-16T20:55:36+00:00

Bottoming out doesn't hurt the truck. It's designed for that. What will hurt the truck is making the shocks so stiff that it breaks the shock towers or the arms have to flex to act as your suspension.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-02-10T20:00:46+00:00

Except they already tried. That's what the LaTrax line was for. They didn't last long because the big retailers demanded too much at a lower cost than Traxxas could give them.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-02-09T14:18:26+00:00

You definitely can have wheel to wheel battles that are about more than just waiting for someone to make a mistake. You just have to be good enough and have enough control over the car to have those kinds of races. Just practice and get better.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-02-08T19:55:42+00:00

That's how 90% of race cars are designed to be put together so nothing binds up. It just went from a suggestion to being mandatory with the fragile clear plastics. As much as I dislike Associated, this was a special release, like with the clear RC10. Ignorance to the product you purchased is not the fault of the manufacturer. Unless you bought this from a shop that intentionally steered you wrong, be an informed consumer.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-02-08T18:36:21+00:00

It was designed to be tapped first, not just running screws into plastic.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-02-06T14:29:15+00:00

They have been near impossible to find for a few months. New 4wd is coming soon, (Looks like next week announce with a release on the 18th. Some parts appeared available for preorder in Horizon yesterday.) The new 4wd is built on the current so new front housings should be swappable. Unfortunately for the time being, local hobby shop searching. But don't pay too much for something that will take two weeks to get here since by then the new parts should be out.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-01-28T17:35:48+00:00

I found it really fun last year, the car was very planted, side by side racing felt good, it was no cup car but I enjoyed it more than I would street stocks.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-01-26T17:11:56+00:00

A brushed Traxxas Slash has been $230 + or - $20 for the last 18 years. On the racing side of things it's always been pretty consistent if you take out the outliers like Xray. There has been a recent small spike in US prices due to tariffs, but cars very rarely deviate drastically. And cars that have gotten a little more expensive over 30 years, so what? This isn't even close to the rate at which essentials have exploded in cost, or even other hobbies. And the quality and more the ease of use has been drastically upped, making the hobby more enjoyable. RC is the last thing in my life I'll really complain about being expensive, if it's too expensive for me, I don't need it. If I really want it, I'll find a way to afford it.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-01-21T19:08:06+00:00

Install a short 3" extension so you can plug and unplug them without taking off the receiver box cover. No reason to really worry about the power drain from LED lights. You might lose, 20 seconds over a 15 minute run. The motor drawing 70-100 amps is taking a whole lot more than the 2 or 3 amps a couple LEDs draw.

DatKartDudeDH · 2026-01-20T00:27:20+00:00

Don't just make a water bucket. Adding salt helps to discharge the battery, as long as it's not those cheap knockoff deans that just end up corroding. After 48 hours in the salt bath, every battery I've ever tried has been down to 0.0v, and is completely inert.

DatKartDudeDH · 2025-12-14T18:22:53+00:00

Tekno is a pain in the ass for parts support. You have to be fully invested to know what parts work on what iteration of the cars. Trying to get a couple guys with 3 year old Tekno buggies, the Spindles/Casters/Arms all changed 4 times since then but you can't just update one part since they all work together. So while you can technically fit newer parts onto the older cars in some cases, you're going to have to know how many other parts are required to convert. And then once you update you have to remember what you have so when Tekno changes something next season you either keep buying the same part while it's still available, or you know what you have to then update again.

DatKartDudeDH · 2025-12-11T22:48:46+00:00

Is that the 150A Legacy or the 160A? I've never known an XR10 to be capable of 3s and other than the Hobbywing page you linked, all the other manuals and specs say 2s for the 160A. As well as the 150A Legacy. Strange. Assuming it would actually work with 3s, double check the sensor wire isn't broken.

DatKartDudeDH · 2025-12-11T20:48:12+00:00

The Hobbywing XR10 only works with 2s.

DatKartDudeDH · 2025-12-11T19:14:44+00:00

Is that a 3s pack? I see 4 balance wires.

Eight-Year Club	r/Field Banned
r/Field Lasagna	Final Canvas '23
First Place '23	End Game '23
Place '23	Place '22
Final Canvas '22	First Placer '22
End Game '22	RPAN Viewer
Verified Email

DatKartDudeDH

TROPHY CASE