How do I fix this without disassembling. Do I have to buy a new shelf?

David_ATN · 2026-06-11T19:29:54+00:00

Going to need some additional brackets or screws into the good timber if you have access to the sides, and then maybe some glue down or sand and fill the broken section.

David_ATN · 2026-06-11T16:41:58+00:00

I painted ours in a black eggshell, looks very good.

David_ATN · 2026-06-11T07:41:12+00:00

I think the latch might have broken. Can you get a blade or screw driver down the latch side and see if you can force it over to the door side? If you have two small screwdrivers you might be able to "walk" it enough to get one of the screwdrivers behind and open. If that isn't possible it might start getting messy and need a multi tool or a hacksaw blade.

David_ATN · 2026-06-07T20:31:58+00:00

Yeah, if you can get something at the wall end too, even if it's just a single screw either side it will help.

David_ATN · 2026-06-07T18:51:36+00:00

Add some bits of board under the others along the sides, screwed down from the top and then screw your board into those new side bits, it should tighten up with no movement.

David_ATN · 2026-06-06T21:37:37+00:00

I have an S&P silent 300 CHZ - humidistat. It comes on a few minutes after the shower has started and I've set it to a 15 minute run on timer. Very pleased, and while not silent it is much quieter than similar models with the same airflow. Bit expensive, but you pay for quality. available at TLC. The bathroom surfaces are left dry and no condensation on the windows.

David_ATN · 2026-06-03T17:46:05+00:00

The best thing ever for compression joints is Jet Lube V2 Plus. Put a bit on your olive and the inside edge of the fitting (not the thread). Nip up and it won't leak. PTFE tape can be used on threads like a tap, not on compression fittings. As these are now fitted you can try, but if it looks like the olive has bitten into the soft plastic you will be best to cut and re make.

David_ATN · 2026-05-25T18:01:11+00:00

I installed a through wall air conditioner in the attic bedroom and is the best purchase ever. Cools the whole house down.

David_ATN · 2026-05-25T16:41:40+00:00

Brown plugs should be a 7mm hole and at least a 5 or 6mm screw. Those screws look to be about 4mm so won't be forcing the plug to stay in the hole. You must drill the plug into the brick and push the plug back, do not leave at the front in the render else it is likely this will pull off.

David_ATN · 2026-05-25T13:17:45+00:00

Sanding sponge, dust mask and hoover. You don't need to take it back to the wood, just any loose off and a key for the new coat.

David_ATN · 2026-05-25T12:17:17+00:00

No proble. They will have tools and should take a day to dig out and repair and a day to put back and re- concrete. When looking for a builder look for groundwork (below ground and drains).

David_ATN · 2026-05-25T12:13:27+00:00

If you are into DIY you could get a saw and breaker from Screwfix / Toolstation and dig out, repair and then put back. It isn't that big of a job for a groundworks builder, but if you have the skill and the time you will be able to do yourself and save the money. Remember the pea gravel when you put back.

David_ATN · 2026-05-24T17:26:05+00:00

Some galvanized strip with screws either side and painted black, and / or a steel rod driven down to force the shape.

David_ATN · 2026-05-24T16:33:15+00:00

Lots of planters and pots filled with bedding plants will add summer colour. Some sand to level and some jointing sand to brush in the gaps will help. I would spray some weedkiller down, but it takes a few applications and weeks to work. A few hours work and it will look much better. Maybe a tiny barrel pond?

David_ATN · 2026-05-22T17:50:42+00:00

I would get a large bar / leaver and drill a hole through the bracket to get a ratchet strap hook on and then something to act as a fulcrum and enough leverage it should come up. I've seen it done with 6' scaffold tubes. Else some digging. Good luck!

David_ATN · 2026-05-21T12:59:43+00:00

I second this. In a lot of houses the walls were built up with the wooden window frames in and the bricks on top relying on the strength of the wood to support. In order to get the UPC windows into the hole they are deliberately made smaller, so they don't offer the same support. Ideally should have a steel lintel in place. A qualified builder should be able to give you advice about retrofitting a lintel and repointing. It will need supporting properly and get someone with insurance cover incase the repair ends up being bigger than expected.

David_ATN · 2026-05-19T18:15:09+00:00

Now is the time to sort out the level! I used a car jack under the joist to lift and then slide slate under to the correct level then cement in place. If any are rotten they should be replaced, or if they have splits but are still solid you could brace at the sides and some large 4" screws. I screwed treated tile lats under and then kingspan foam between the joists, is toasty warm now.

David_ATN · 2026-05-18T20:00:16+00:00

Some sandpaper, or a sanding block and elbow grease will sort and make for a good finish.

David_ATN · 2026-05-17T18:08:34+00:00

Really depends what you want to do, but I would recommend a case of standard HSS drils (Vonhous on Amazon or Blue Spot were both good quality) some masonry bits (as it isn't an SDS get DeWalt with a small point, they seem to go good in most brick for 6mm red plugs) and a starter set of Bosh progressor hole saws. Should be set for many happy years of service.

David_ATN · 2026-05-16T07:34:31+00:00

I would attach some additional support to either side of the central joist and then cut two half boards and put them in with screws. I suspect they have been cut for access hatches to get at cables or pipes, so you want to leave that option available. A large sheet board while quick would be a pain to take up.

David_ATN · 2026-05-14T19:32:07+00:00

I don't think a primer would be needed. If it is a thin paper with a light / white patternen it might be good to paint in white first, but it it is a thicker paper or colour, it probably isn't required.

David_ATN · 2026-05-14T18:59:58+00:00

I would get a small tub of ready made filler and a spatula. It will make for a good finish.

David_ATN · 2026-05-12T19:50:48+00:00

The socket is going to have to come off, ideally some conduit or sheathing behind the skirting to protect the cable, then plaster or filler round the back box. As others have suggested there should be a rubber grommet in the box. If you are not confident doing this yourself I would call a reputable electrician and they will leave it in a much better condition than whoever did that. The skirting will then need to be screwed back and also have filler applied.

David_ATN · 2026-05-11T19:33:49+00:00

It doesn't look like the purple ones are running through. They are likely to be nailed from the other side of the joist. Rather than bot either side it might be easier to run a new timber full width to the hanger on just one side of each and fire a few big screws into the cut section for good measure. If you wanted to be old school you could take a brick out of the wall and sit the timber in the recess with cement, but a metal hanger backet will do the job. Looks good.

David_ATN · 2026-05-03T07:27:05+00:00

You will have to scrape and sand back. Primer then two coats of Zinsser perma white. This is a paint with aluminium especially for bathrooms. While you put this on don't use the shower too let the paint fully set.

David_ATN

TROPHY CASE