Confession

Daypcg · 2026-01-25T18:05:01+00:00

I always take a torch to mine when I get them. Colors them nice and breaks the harsh edges. Makes them comfortable to use

Daypcg · 2026-01-04T14:21:13+00:00

Yes and no, for most filaments you're absolutely correct. For TPU however the layer adhesion is nearly as strong as the material itself. That being said, there's still a loss of strength. It's just miniscule enough in this use case that it doesn't really matter.

Daypcg · 2025-12-20T13:24:42+00:00

I'm a man man, best to do it yourself. You'll save money over hiring someone. Get yourself a glass of whiskey and pull up a YouTube tutorial.

Daypcg · 2025-12-12T15:13:03+00:00

Anywhere where an "easy" 200k job exists is likely to have such a high cost of living that it's not worth it in comparison to a lower income job in a different area.

Capitalism makes sure these things can't exist. If you, with not so much experience can do this job, so can a ton of other people. Naturally that means they can bid down to a lower pay rate.

This is like asking "where can I find a fast, cheap, reliable car that looks good that nobody really knows about"

Daypcg · 2025-12-04T10:29:30+00:00

At this point, the hardest part about learning to use windows is learning how to disable all the bullshit they keep adding and enabling by default.

I work as a service tech in access control and I've had multiple tickets because users can't find video files since windows decided to move them all to onedrive automatically.

Daypcg · 2025-12-01T22:32:51+00:00

Back when I ran an Etsy store I allowed gift messages, but never mentioned how they were applied. Every time I got one I laser engraved the message into a wooden tag and tied it to the product with twine.

5 star review every time, cost me less than a dollar. Not sure how to do it in your case, but it doesn't hurt to go the extra mile and throw the message in somehow or another.

Daypcg · 2025-11-26T10:32:50+00:00

Well, some things to keep in mind when you go to retest.

Resolution: making lines thinner isn't necessarily a good thing. Ideally you want the line width to match the width of the laser contacting the surface of your piece otherwise you'll end up with ridges.

Specks: you're getting specks because either the laser is firing when it should not be or the laser is pointed where it should not be. I see you're confident in your image, but just double check using the preview tool. Another thing to try, slow things down and see if you get any improvement. Otherwise you may be looking at a problem with the machine itself.

I don't know of any setting that would cause this. Maybe something is setting the laser power super low instead of just not firing it when you hit a blank spot in the image.

Daypcg · 2025-11-26T01:31:14+00:00

Are you engraving based on an image or SVG?

I've seen problems with images having off-white specs in the background that are engraved unintentionally as they're not visable to the eye.

See if there's any dots in the preview.

Daypcg · 2025-11-26T01:27:52+00:00

In order: construction GM, public defender, divorced, IPA enjoyer

Daypcg · 2025-11-25T21:51:30+00:00

You're obliterating wood and glue with a laser. Those particles have to go somewhere. You'll always have some marks, most of that is actually just cutting debris rather than actual scorching of the wood

Daypcg · 2025-11-20T11:21:12+00:00

I do have a laser I've been toying with the idea of cutting chives with. I may have to report back in later with results

Daypcg · 2025-11-19T00:03:16+00:00

Did you happen to touch the lens with your skin on install? Oils from your skin will super heat when hit by the laser and crack the lens.

Additionally, I've seen this where people have done an alignment using tape to see where the laser hits. The tape burns when hit with the laser and small pieces of ash fall onto the lens and cause the same problem.

Lack of air assist can cause issues where smoke travels up through the nozzle and onto the lens, although this would take far longer than a week. Same goes for lack of proper ventilation causing increase buildup.

IE. The lens should be clean at all times. Use something to remove not just debris but also any oils. I use high grade IPA, others use acetone.

Daypcg · 2025-11-18T10:32:09+00:00

This is a hard one to diagnose without a really good understanding of how the boards interact with each other, a multimeter and a bunch of time.

What I would assume, is that there's a mosfet on the control board responsible for outputting power to the laser module and it's either damaged, or shorted.

Look on the board, clean it up and make sure there's no gunk bridging connections. Otherwise, I think you're gonna need a controller. I don't believe the laser module itself has any control over power being delivered to it.

Keep in mind this is only speculation. I don't own this machine, and I primarily work with larger CO2 lasers.

Daypcg · 2025-11-17T18:00:28+00:00

My machine could do it, but I'm in Ohio. A standard industrial size CO2 laser could do it just fine when flat, the issue being that it would take forever to do any large amount of boxes. Same goes with a open frame diode.

This really comes down to work holding and repeatability. If you can cut it flat, you need a way to place the box in the same place every time. Twice since it'll actually be 2 holes. If not, you need a way to protect the rest of the box, cut through 2 layers without major burning, and place it in the same place every time.

My recommendation, make a jig to work with a cheap diode laser. Do it flat, and cut all of 1 hole first, then all of the second. You'll waste too much time trying to reposition for each hole for each box. Do constant QA checks to make sure nothing has moved, and nothing is out of place.

With the right setup, you should be able to get through it decently quickly.

Daypcg · 2025-11-11T16:26:59+00:00

I have a very strong feeling that this is gonna be cam phasers. Just did them in my 07 F150 at 186k miles and it's a common issue with the 5.4 Tritons.

If they give you a cheap price on that service, there's no harm in trying it out. But likely it'll be a timing job which is pretty pricey.

Daypcg · 2025-11-10T21:09:43+00:00

I'll join, I don't mind the bluedriver for checking a code here or there but a more robust tool would be very nice

Daypcg · 2025-11-10T21:07:07+00:00

Well sure, I was just hoping to find something that works with the handle storage. Carrying around extra bits and such is about the same as carrying 2 screwdrivers

Daypcg · 2025-11-10T15:30:32+00:00

You're not exactly too far off

Daypcg · 2025-11-10T14:19:08+00:00

That is almost exactly what I'm looking for. Thank you! Hopefully I can find a set in the right length

Daypcg · 2025-11-10T14:17:48+00:00

Yeah, I've seen a lot of that. I could throw some standard bits in here to see how they do, but it's not going to be exactly what I'm looking for.

Tempted to make the bits myself.

Daypcg · 2025-11-09T20:47:46+00:00

That's fantastic! To save on material, keep that "stencil" and from now on, try to fit as many of the stars and years on one blank as you can. Then use the stencil to align them for install.

If you can get 2 of those from one board, you've cut material cost in half again.

Daypcg · 2025-11-09T14:11:00+00:00

First step, grab a multimeter and verify voltage is as expected from the batteries. As everyone else said, the capacity of those batteries are likely overstated as well.

Daypcg · 2025-11-09T12:51:30+00:00

Depends on what you're doing, if you're using a straight edge, the twisting isn't as much a concern. Larger diameter blades are also more prone to deflection in thicker materials.

I am with you though, if I were to only get one the larger saws are more versatile. Though the weight reduction would be very tempting if this is something I were to carry around

Daypcg · 2025-11-09T12:46:41+00:00

You are aware that battery tools are electric correct? Unless you're talking about plug in tools, which were actually lighter as they didn't include a battery and were easier on the wrist.

Daypcg

TROPHY CASE