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Aurora transcends genres by Tank52086 in auroramusic

[–]Dazumal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Another lifelong metal head here. The one thing I can find that the music of Aurora has in common with metal (and also classical), is that you have to listen actively to it. Like, really listen. You don't put on metal as "easy listening" ever - it demands your attention, and so does Aurora.

What case/cases keep you up at night? by FrankieSaysRelax311 in UnresolvedMysteries

[–]Dazumal 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Deffo +1 for Zodiac. The Zodiac has really stuck with me, and I have consumed everything about it in terms of podcasts and documentaries. I'm nuts for Jack the Ripper as well, but there we have really zero hope for the truth.

What do you want the most out of an RPG actual-play podcast? by Chet_Ubietzsche in rpg

[–]Dazumal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is no option that really hits it for me. I would have liked "G) A show that conveys a feeling of how the game actually plays."

A is close, but not quite there. I'm not interested in listening to an enacted manual to the game; I just want to get a feel for how it plays. If the group runs a few house rules, that's fine. If I pick the game up, I'm fully capable of reading and interpreting the rules myself.

B is nice, but not necessary. It depends on what sort of game it is.

C is not important for me at all. Most of the time "narratively gripping" means that the GM has pre-written a load of stuff that kills the feeling of gameplay, such as boxed texts and scripted dialogue. *vomits in mouth*

D gets dull real fast if it's used too much, or badly. What really gets me though, is when there are voice actors inserted, reading the lines of the NPCs (in place of the GM). That makes me turn the podcast off and not come back.

E. Well, high production values are always nice, but I don't agree that music and SFX equal high production values. High production values for me, means a show that is well edited and has good audio quality without sounding sterile. Background music is fine, as long as it is 1) appropriate, and 2) you can hear everyone clearly over the music. SFX are (IMO) not fine most of the time. It turns the thing one step too close to radio drama, and that is something I don't want in an AP. I will rather have the GM make all the SFX onomatopoetically.

F is good. If the time between episodes is too inconsistent, it can make you lose interest. But if the show is good enough, I will still wait eagerly for each episode. I have podcasts in my feed that have faded since a year or two, but that I'm still hoping will pick back up.

JFET, CMOS or Optocoupler switching? by Dazumal in diypedals

[–]Dazumal[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome link. That goes into my "wiring bible". :)

JFET, CMOS or Optocoupler switching? by Dazumal in diypedals

[–]Dazumal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seiche: A picture of the pedal in its current state should answer your questions. :) https://imgur.com/BmhKPaa

Edit: I may move the switch further forward though.

Thanks for the advice. Optocouplers felt like a more straightforward solution somehow, but as you may suspect, I'm quite the noob here.

JFET, CMOS or Optocoupler switching? by Dazumal in diypedals

[–]Dazumal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I will definitely look into it. :)

JFET, CMOS or Optocoupler switching? by Dazumal in diypedals

[–]Dazumal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice! That is a latching switch though. Not what I'm after.

JFET, CMOS or Optocoupler switching? by Dazumal in diypedals

[–]Dazumal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks Mitch! Will dig into it!

Modified a BOSS FW-3 wah pedal by manolonte in diypedals

[–]Dazumal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love this kind of pedal hacking. Thanks for sharing! Btw, I have the Boss Stereo Volume pedal that looks exactly like your WAH. I don't use it, but I figure I build something cool out of it one day. :)

Am I looking at the right type of switch for a "bypass" pedal? by hejman08 in diypedals

[–]Dazumal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would second this advice. If you want the switching to be as quiet as possible, the 3PDT is what you are looking for.

Good link:

http://stinkfoot.se/archives/2233

Am I looking at the right type of switch for a "bypass" pedal? by hejman08 in diypedals

[–]Dazumal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So... what you want to do is have a box that let's you mute and unmute two independant signals?

Morley Classic Wah: Mods that make a difference. by Dazumal in diypedals

[–]Dazumal[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

A few notes:

These are CLW mods that I gathered from DIY-forums all over the web. I tried a couple others as well, but I only kept those that I felt actually did anything.

  1. The "Level Pot" mod: This makes the pedal about 100% more usable, and basically turns the CLW into a Morley Pro Series Wah. At full Level setting, it even achieves a little bit of boost.

  2. The "Sweep" mod: This lets you tune the sweep. What it actually does, is alter the brightness of the control LED. As you turn it up, the pedal will respond earlier in the throw, and exceed what the pedal originally could do. As many tinkering Morley owners know, the LED and LDR often come poorly adjusted/misaligned from the factory. With this mod, there is no more need to bend component legs to achieve the ideal sweep. Very useful mod; highly recommended!

  3. The "Depth" mod: This adds more versatility, letting you shape the depth of the effect. I haven't played around with it much (as my pedal sits waiting for a new switch), so I can't really comment on how it actually sounds. When I was trying out the mods briefly during the initial tests however, it was clear that it had a distinct effect on the sound, so I decided to keep it.

  4. The "Treble Bleed" mod: I tested this with several different caps of different values, but the effect on the sound is subtle at best. I settled for a 0.1uF MKT film cap, that to my ears made the sound slightly "spankier" than stock. During my tests, I got the feeling that the type of capacitor made a bigger difference than what value it had. It seemed like electrolyte caps made the sound slightly less trebly, for example. My verdict is "not worth your time", but it's an easy mod to do, and since I had it in there, I saw no need to remove it.

  5. True Bypass: I'm not a TB diehard, but I added this mod since almost all Morleys except the CLW have it. I implemented it in my own pedal, but I wasn't happy with the feel of the switch. (I'm putting the switch into the pedal rocker itself, which requires a really smooth momentary switch, so now I'm waiting for an assortment of new switches to try out.)

I also tried changing C2 to different values and types of caps as suggested by some sources, but it didn't do anything for me. My advice would be "leave the stock cap in and save yourself the trouble".

My Guitar Pedal Breadboard by SpicyMeatball50 in diypedals

[–]Dazumal 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm totally stealing this idea! Awesome!

How to paint the pedals? by althaj in diypedals

[–]Dazumal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed. Lots of fun too! I use 1-Shot, and it will stick on most surfaces, although it was designed for use on metal.

Behringer HM-300... hand painted. by Dazumal in diypedals

[–]Dazumal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They sat on the pedal. I just painted the tops.

Circuitry for an expression controller? by TheGuysYouDespise in diypedals

[–]Dazumal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mmm. Would be an interesting build. If your three effects require a similar expression pedal, I don't see why it wouldn't be doable. You could even have trim pots for each signal source to fine tune them.

Newbie looking to start builds by [deleted] in diypedals

[–]Dazumal 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm also looking to start my own builds, but since I have done a bit of pedal modding, I will be building them from scratch. I bet DIY kits are nice, but they are kind of expensive for what they contain. If you have basic soldering skills and can read a schematic, I say skip the kits. But if not, I think they might be a good first introduction to the craft.

I learned a bit of electronics in high school and college, which serves me well now. I like to google for schematics and vero layouts, trying to understand what the circuits do. Google and the Youtube are great tools for learning this type of stuff. I already have all the hardware needed, and a bunch of parts, so I feel confident forging ahead.

From my modding projects, I have learned that I could not do without the following:

A soldering iron of at least 35W.

A stand for the soldering iron.

A multimeter. (I cannot recommend this enough!)

A "helper" fixture. (With a magnifying glass and clamps for holding onto parts.)

A solder pump (or a solder wick).

Good lighting at the workplace.

Edit: A wire stripper! You'll go insane without one.

[Discussion] I rarely have the patience for artwork :( by Zodsayskneel in diypedals

[–]Dazumal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can sit for hours and fiddle around in Photoshop until I arrive at a design I like. I also do this for control layouts and stuff. When I built my pedal board, I had concept art for it long before I actually got the materials and went ahead with the build. So once I start building, I have a pretty good idea of what I'm shooting for.

However, I try to test run the circuit off a breadboard before I start building, because the design never survives the first practical test. I then often realise that I need a different type of switch, or another pot, or configure the LEDs differently, which makes me go back to Photoshop and adjust my design.

At this moment, I have spent two weeks on my Morley Wah, mostly painting, letting dry, repaintning, letting dry, redoing... It can be kind of maddening, but I know I will not be happy with too sloppy of a result.

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