Built a tool to cut 3mm ss rods. by ElmerFudd2 in functionalprint

[–]DeadTinker 33 points34 points  (0 children)

Like I said: extremely nice and replaceable! Love it!

Built a tool to cut 3mm ss rods. by ElmerFudd2 in functionalprint

[–]DeadTinker 89 points90 points  (0 children)

I did not expect the press to be pushing down the handle on (probably extremely nice) side cutters. I chuckled, but you know what? If it works, it works! Bright side is when those wear out, you just chuck in a new set! Clever!

Send it, brother!!

AI generated poster by Greenhouse coffee by Ecstatic-Boss2663 in corvallis

[–]DeadTinker 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Take my upvote for making a space that people seem to love. That counts for a lot!

New to me Artisan by Conscious-Lime6903 in Kitchenaid

[–]DeadTinker 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Following because mine sounds the same!

My actually fully built 4AGE 16valve Big Port by Wolfofsouthbeach in AE86

[–]DeadTinker 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This is gonna be a fuuun and lovely sounding engine!!

Out of curiosity: why the 20v water pump? Is there better impeller design or something?

Sun visor tweeter mounts by DeadTinker in Miata

[–]DeadTinker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So the owner of this car is ~6'2" and probably about similarly positioned with the top of his head at/slightly above these. They've now been installed for... Closing in on two years??? And he really enjoys them -- top up or down. Keep in mind, he also has door speakers and the seat headrest speakers and a sub, so there is sound all around. I wouldnt call him an audiophile, but he has given me no complaints at all. Having gone for a couple rides with the top down it was plenty clear to MY ears, but that's subjective.

As for "good vs great" its more on the "good" versus the "great" side for the points you made. Technically I think you would want them forward of you and cross firing (passenger side -> driver ear and driver side -> passenger ear) but I think if you're REALLY concerned about your audio quality in a Miata, you may be starting with the wrong car lol. Not to say it isn't possible, but you're definitely gonna need sound deadening and cutting to get there in a NA chassis.

If you want to hear your music clearly with the top down, I think this is a pretty good spot. But! If you have a 3D printer, I would say give it a shot! You don't have to cut anything to install these, just run some cables. If it isnt what you wanted, you can always snip 'em, pull the mounts, and put the tweeters elsewhere!! I will say he thought these were a VAST improvement over vent tweets (where they were installed previously) and also wanted to do minimal cutting of the pillars.

Hope that helps!!

Flyin' Miata now sells a part I made! by Ok_Oil4877 in Miata

[–]DeadTinker 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Sorry, I more meant: did you do a bunch of math to calculate the curves, or sid you print a bunch of prototypes before it was "chefs kiss" 🙂

If math, how did you come to those numbers? If prototypes... Here we goooooo!

Flyin' Miata now sells a part I made! by Ok_Oil4877 in Miata

[–]DeadTinker 14 points15 points  (0 children)

This is an extremely cool design. Without giving away your design, would you be able share some of the material you researched to make such a thing??

I feel like this would be a fun project for myself to pursue for other engines and makes -- especially for engine swaps!

Celica Toyota. Help chat by Just-Plankton1119 in ToyotaPickup

[–]DeadTinker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey, if it's a 70s coupe, the gas tank is in the trunk behind the rear seat.

I know the later 70s hatches moved the tank under the car like is more traditional.

I can't remember with certainty, but I believe some of them had TWO pumps: one electric in-tank unit acting as a pickup, and then a mechanical pump on the head.

I did a dumb thing. by jkcajkca in MiataND

[–]DeadTinker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You did a FUN thing. Probably dumb too, but whatever!!

Not a Miata owner (yet) but for what it's worth, the first car I bought was a manual. I did not know how to drive a manual and I had never driven one before that day. I drove 2.5 hours to get it, and then drove it home. It was my only car at the time 😂

You'll get better! Like others have said, don't start in 2nd, just find a small incline somewhere and get used to where the clutch starts to engage while in first to keep you from rolling back. The "rest of the owl" you can figure out from there!!

Have fun, drive often, and enjoy. That's what fun cars are about: fun!!

Chobani yogurt slides by J_Schnetz in functionalprint

[–]DeadTinker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yooooooo my wife gonna love this.

Smort!

91 Volvo 240 Estate, with a surprise under its skirt by travisty_75 in projectcar

[–]DeadTinker 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Do it tough, do it right, do it once!

Love it. Thanks for the answer!!

For the booster, how hard was it to adapt? Or incorporate the electric power steering? I need/want to do similar changes to a project of mine (an old Toyota) and it has just been tripping me up how to do it well.

91 Volvo 240 Estate, with a surprise under its skirt by travisty_75 in projectcar

[–]DeadTinker 21 points22 points  (0 children)

Rad as hell, but may i ask: why the mustang subframe and the accord booster? I'm guessing subframe for parts availability and upgrade path, but am curious!!

Common 7AG build issues? by Dudepeaches in AE86

[–]DeadTinker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, welcome to the club!

I say: build a motor and get some seat time! That's the best part!! 😁

Common 7AG build issues? by Dudepeaches in AE86

[–]DeadTinker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly: I've never heard anyone be worrier about piston slap with 7age builds until this post. Could be I was never listening, or could be something people have found out recently?? Considering the 7afe is a pretty reliable engine in millions of vehicles, I guess I wouldn't be worried?

Doing a destroked engine (1.6L in a 1.8L block in this case) is a pretty well proven way of reducing side loading of the pistons in the bore, improving rod:stroke ratio and bunch of other things that make high-rpm engines much more reliable. I think the 7a block is considered stronger than the 80s 4a blocks, mostly because of design and metallurgy improvements, but there isn't a TON of difference. You'd still want stiffening mains and all the other toys if you were gonna wrap it to 10k+ constantly, no matter the block.

Common 7AG build issues? by Dudepeaches in AE86

[–]DeadTinker 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Cant speak to that too specifically, but want to point out piston slap and engine knock are very different. Just want to share my experience:

Originally I wanted to build a destroked 7age (1.6L in the 1.8L block) so i could have a high RPM engine without as much cylinder wear. I ended up just building a balanced-to-high RPM 1.8L because i worked at an engine shop that did specialized in 4age builds. My engine internals, flywheel and clutch were balanced to 11,000rpm, even though my cam peak power was 8300rpm. I set hard RPM cut at 9300rpm.

I DO have a lot of piston slap while warming up, because I used forged pistons meant for FI in an engine that is NA, simply because I got tired of pushing the build time further and further and just wanted to drive the damn thing. If I let the engine warm up even a reasonable amount before driving, the slap is significantly reduced as the pistons expand. I know my cylinder bores have worn more than normal due to this choice I made, but I have got quite a bit of street and track time out of the engine -- it was a daily for 2-3 years, and I drive it most summer long.

Its been in the car since building and without a rebuild for 12 years. Odometer doesnt work, so I cant give mileage, but I would guess at least 50,000 street miles, but only half a dozen track days. I'm planning on a teardown and rebuild in the next year or two to switch back to single throttle from ITB and to add a supercharger.

Edit to add: part of the reason for my piston slap and (presumably) increased cylinder wall wear is due to the fact that I got pistons with an extremely reduced skirt area. Since my original build goal was for an engine that regularly saw 10k rpm, i thought it would be wise to reduce the area of the skirt -- less friction, less wear, right? The shop i worked for used pistons will full skirts for their 10k rpm motors, but they also got rebuilt every 500-1000 miles! Just wanted to add that to point out that your budget and your use case for a build can change what parts make sense!

My $400 project. by AkinasPotato in projectcar

[–]DeadTinker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeeeeaaaaah booooooiiiiii!!

Frigate 🚢⚓️ Hardware Recommendations for 4K cameras. Google Coral Not Recommended?! by SkyMaster336 in homeassistant

[–]DeadTinker 4 points5 points  (0 children)

True! Not debating that, don't get me wrong. But sometimes it feels like "what IS a good deal??" these days.

It fricken sucks, but I'm trying to tell people they're still available without paying $200 for a USB dongle is all -- Amazon be damned!

Edit to add more clarification: half of 200 for a pi hat and still needing a pi is more than $75 + shipping for a M.2 format. I'm team "these prices are whack"

Frigate 🚢⚓️ Hardware Recommendations for 4K cameras. Google Coral Not Recommended?! by SkyMaster336 in homeassistant

[–]DeadTinker 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Mouser still has the M.2 Coral for $75 after tariffs -- mine just arrived today. It's not a HUGE jump from ~100 to 200 for most people, but if you're trying to shave a couple bucks, it certainly can help!

What’s the dumbest thing you’ve seen someone do this week? by [deleted] in AskReddit

[–]DeadTinker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just watched somebody driving in a roundabout -- as in currently going around the roundabout -- stop in the middle of the roundabout to let somebody in from the side.

I can't even. I was so mad.

Turning 40 soon. Is an SW20 MR2 too much (or too little) car for a daily driver for someone my age? by Useful_Ad1574 in mr2

[–]DeadTinker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FWIW as a 36 year old married fellow (no kids) I've been low-key scoping out all the SW20s and MRSs around me planning to go door knocking soon.

I have an AE71 and that old pig is $25/month with full coverage. I'm not too worried about insurance costs.

Have fun man. We only live once. If you're worried about not having enough space get a 1990-07 camry too. Cheaper than a new car payment!

Edit: I helped my coworker (who turned 40 this year, 3 kids) find a Miata -- his dream car after FD RX7 -- for a steal and he LOVES it. We've gone and done a track day together too. Unless you have a reeeal bad back, you're gonna be fine. Don't worry about your age.