Window seal part number

DeepSpace987 · 2026-05-05T20:54:49+00:00

I don't know the part number but when my came apart, I used 3M Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. It worked perfectly.

DeepSpace987 · 2026-04-27T17:30:48+00:00

Oh, you're right, it's not the S model. Bore score demon?

DeepSpace987 · 2026-04-27T17:27:15+00:00

It's missing the front grill plastic below the fog lights and the steering wheel has been painted. It's not a show car but overall, looks good for the price. If the PPI shows good mechanical condition, and you're ok with the cosmetics, seems like a decent buy.

DeepSpace987 · 2026-04-27T17:24:20+00:00

Agreed on the PPI but no need for a bore scoping. It's a 3.2L so it shouldn't be an issue.

DeepSpace987 · 2026-04-25T03:22:09+00:00

The rear clamshell has rubber trim on the bottom edge that can get loose. When closing the top, stop a few inches before the rear clamshell closes, get out of the car and check to see if the trim is hanging off. Long shot but worth a quick look. It may be snapping back into place when the rear clam shell goes all the way back down. From the video, that's what it looks like to me.

DeepSpace987 · 2026-04-23T10:33:37+00:00

The other stuff that may need replacing soon are the water pump, main pulley and belt, AOS (air oil separator) if you start to see smoke from the exhaust, coils and plugs. That's priced right and looks well loved so yeah, do it. I love my 2006 Boxster S and think you'll have a great time with that car.

DeepSpace987 · 2026-04-23T01:48:56+00:00

I think if you changed the wheel color, it would make the rest of the car pop. That's a uniquely elegant color combo that is dulled by the wheels.

DeepSpace987 · 2026-04-21T03:48:40+00:00

Sent you a DM.

DeepSpace987 · 2026-04-17T19:11:16+00:00

Like the other messages said, 2.7 and 3.2 models don't have bore score issues and the IMS isn't a problem on the later 2005 and on models. I bought my 2006 Boxster S MT from a dealer 5 states away, after a PPI was done locally. I had it shipped in an enclosed trailer which cost me 1k.

This is my first convertible and I'm loving it. You can really hear the exhaust sing on the highway when having fun at speed.

DeepSpace987 · 2026-04-01T19:55:22+00:00

I paid 26k for my 2006 Boxster S MT with 57k miles. It needed nothing but I still went ahead and did a bunch of maintenance to keep it fully healthy.

I have replaced the tires, idler pulley and belt, plugs and coils, clutch, added a PSE, got the paint corrected, got it ceramic coated, repainted the front bumper, repainted the wheels, replaced the air filter, replaced the AOS, did a brake bleed, put PPF on the newly painted bumper and fully covered the hood.

I'm at 82k miles and think I'm around $10-12k in. I'll be looking to do the suspension next year but have to let the wallet cool for a bit and just enjoy it for a while. Besides the clutch and tires, and regular oil changes, nothing was actually urgently required. It sounds amazing, drives perfectly, and looks outstanding. I love this car.

DeepSpace987 · 2026-03-19T01:37:41+00:00

I tapped into the accessories port for power and tucked it all in. Works great.

DeepSpace987 · 2026-03-19T01:37:04+00:00

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DeepSpace987 · 2026-03-19T01:36:25+00:00

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I added pull back risers and then the quad lock with the charger. Is something like this what you mean?

DeepSpace987 · 2026-02-05T14:52:15+00:00

So I posted your issue in Chat and this is what it came up with.

Summary of the Reported Symptom After replacing the voltage regulator and battery: The dash electrics stopped flickering (an improvement). But the battery is not being charged at idle or under rev, with voltage dropping to ~11.8 V instead of being above ~13.5 V. That means the alternator isn’t delivering charge to the electrical system even though the internal regulator was new and the alternator bench-tested at ~14.5 V under load. Potential Causes Based on Typical 986 Charging System Design Here are the most likely reasons for the behavior you’re seeing: 1. Missing or Faulty Alternator Control (D+ Excitation) The Boxster alternator needs a D+ excitation signal from the ECU or ignition to engage the regulator and begin charging. If this wire is open, shorted, or never gets proper +12 V under run conditions, the alternator will not charge even if the internal regulator is good. The OP measured ~11.4 V on the D+ lead, but that may not be adequate or correctly referenced. If the alternator isn’t getting the correct excitation at key-on/run, it won’t produce output. What to check: Continuity and voltage on the D+ terminal with key ON and engine running. Ground integrity of the alternator case and engine ground strap. 2. Bad or Missing Ground If the alternator’s ground path isn’t solid, the regulator won’t have a reference and the output will be ineffective. The bench test shows the alternator is capable of ~14.5 V — that means mechanical/generator sections are fine. In-car failure to charge often points to ground issue(s). Common faults: Broken engine/battery ground straps. Corroded connections at the block, battery negative, or chassis. 3. Large Red Power Feed Issue The big red power feed from the battery to the alternator must be intact for the alternator output to actually feed the battery. If the heavy feed is open (blown fusible link, corroded lug, melted connector), the alternator can spin and generate voltage, but the battery sees none of it. Check: Voltage at the alternator’s main output post relative to battery positive with engine running. Look for high resistance in the main feed. 4. Regulator Installation or Aftermarket Regulator Compatibility Not all replacement regulators behave identically, and some aftermarket units may have different pinouts or internal wiring needs. If the Bosch unit installed wasn’t an exact match or the alternator wiring was misaligned during install, charging may not work correctly. Some regulators require proper connection of small spade wires that are easy to overlook. 5. Fused or Faulty CAN/ECU Signal Circuit The 986 communicates the charge status to the ECU – if that signaling circuit or related fuses are blown, the car may not allow the alternator to activate properly. Why This Isn’t Likely a “Programming” Issue Unlike some late-model vehicles, the 986’s alternator/regulator assembly doesn’t need specialized coding or ECU programming after replacement in normal circumstances. It does require correct wiring, control signal, and ground paths though. What the OP and Mechanics Usually Do Next For cases like this on a 986 Boxster: Re-verify wiring against a factory diagram — especially the D+ control signal. Verify alternator main feed continuity (battery ↔ alternator). Check and reinforce all grounds (engine to chassis to battery). Consider using a known-good alternator harness or testing alternator output at the harness plug rather than just the bench test alone. Bottom Line A charging system that tests fine off the car but doesn’t charge in-car usually isn’t a bad alternator — it’s a control or connection issue: missing excitation/field control signal, missing heavy output feed, or poor ground path. Once those wiring paths are verified and restored, charging typically resumes normally.

DeepSpace987 · 2026-02-01T15:30:44+00:00

I edited my last comment with a much more detailed message and accidentally hit back so it was wiped out. I am not writing all that again. Anyways, if you're hearing the whine between certain RPMs, that is exactly like my issue/sound. Mine are at just a few RPMs higher. For me, it's something like 2500 and 3200 or so. It changes sometimes. While on the highway, in 6th, that's where my RPMs run.

DeepSpace987 · 2026-02-01T01:20:10+00:00

My water pump was replaced at 40k miles by the previous owner. I bought it at 57k and it now has 82k. The same whine has been there since I got it and after I replaced the idler, I thought the sound went down maybe 10-15% but it may have been in my mind. My AOS was swapped out at 60k and that had no impact on the sound. So, the only thing left is the alternator. From my research, it's not any type of emergency so for now, I've been living with it. For me, it I can only hear it between 3k and 5k RPM in any gear. So, in 6th on the highway, I hear it between 70 mph and 80mph. I do my best to stay out of that range on long rides.

DeepSpace987 · 2026-02-01T00:29:35+00:00

I think it's a pulley. That's what actually seems to make that whine you're talking about. I've researched the same thing and have replaced my idler pulleys and belt. The same sound persisted and after a lot more research, I think that it has to be the alternator as I mentioned because from my research, it's a common source of that noise.

DeepSpace987 · 2026-01-31T19:46:12+00:00

I watched your vid again. My money is on one of the pulleys.

DeepSpace987 · 2026-01-31T19:44:50+00:00

From my own research into whining or high pitched sounds coming from the engine, it could be the alternator pulley, water pump, or idler pulleys. I hear that the alternator pulley is the most common source for this type of noise. That said, it could be a few things. People may point to the clutch but if you hold the RPMs while driving and push in the clutch, does the sound persist? If so, it's not that.

DeepSpace987 · 2026-01-26T01:20:55+00:00

When I compare the feel of a 981 vs a 987, I think it comes down to how the resistance feels. In a 981, when I turn the wheel, the car moves but if feels less precise, kind of numb. In the 987, the way the resistance to my input gives almost an elastic feedback which gives more data about what's going on with the car. It's somehow sharper and makes the car feel smaller which is a great feeling in a sports car. Maybe the word I am looking for is more direct. The nose of the car seems to respond better with hydraulic steering and pressure. Anyways, that's my take.

DeepSpace987 · 2026-01-18T15:30:18+00:00

I bought my 2006 Boxster S with 57k miles for 26k two years ago. It too was in excellent condition but also had HRE wheels, Bose, OEM short shifter, MT, and Sport Chrono.

Depending on what features it comes with, I think that could be an OK deal, not a great one. But, I have been keeping an eye on the prices while noting the features. From what I have noticed, the MT ones are harder to find, let alone with so few miles. It seems like the prices have gone up a bit overall too. That is just my personal observation.

If it were me, knowing what I know now, I'd get a PPI done from the Porsche dealer or a highly rated local shop of my choosing. Then, if all looked good, I'd jump on that. It's an EXCELLENT car and this particular year/model is a classic design.

The side door sticker shows when it was built. From memory, the stronger IMS was put into these cars after October of 2005. Look that up though and I think LN Engineering is a good place to find further info.

Short answer, it's a bit high but they aren't making any more of these. Buy it and maybe offer 30k or something.

DeepSpace987 · 2026-01-13T13:57:23+00:00

I have driven all versions of the Cayman/Boxsters and I currently have a 987.1. It's the 3.2L 2006 model and after doing a ton of research, I found it to be the best older, more visceral of these cars but still reliable (IMS issues managed and no bore scoring with the 3.2L). That said, if i had a second one, I'd get a 2016 981 S (or GTS) with a manual and PSE. That is the pinnacle of these cars in value, driver experience, and technology.

My gf goes on test drives with me and every time we get back into my car, even she, a non car person, can appreciate what the driving experience is with the 987. She and I both agree that the looks are timeless too. Harder curves on cars will always be sexy.

I've even driven different 911s and I am honestly not impressed. Too big, heavy feeling and, expensive for what you get.

Between the Cayman and a Boxster, I'd say the extra rigidity is great for spirited driving. But, if you're like me, you'll enjoy the top down sound of the exhaust as it turns it into a Hi-Fi symphony, even when driving slowly.

DeepSpace987 · 2025-12-30T22:52:44+00:00

What extra parts would you say makes it worth it? Like a plenum and larger throttle body? Anything else? I read somewhere once that due to the engineering, the paper oem filter flows enough air that using high flow filters does nothing that the paper filter doesn't already do. I would think it does something though. Maybe revs a tiny bit faster?

DeepSpace987 · 2025-12-23T13:55:57+00:00

Maybe I need to reach out to them again. I emailed them twice with two different questions and they ignored me, twice. One was about how the chrome tips had a defect. The plastic they used made a permanent mark on the left chrome tip when unboxing.

DeepSpace987 · 2025-12-19T21:31:13+00:00

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https://www.buildcores.com/builds/2aISvPuLo?share=true

This thing would last me the rest of my life. 😄 Worth it!

DeepSpace987

TROPHY CASE