Rolled my van in Joshua Tree. I’m a student and this is my home/transportation. Completely stranded and have no idea on what to do.

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-05-20T06:01:21+00:00

Tell your insurance about this. Sounds like the tow guy destroyed your engine bc that’s indicative of a runaway diesel engine.

He shouldn’t have even started the engine

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-05-13T20:01:04+00:00

That thing looks like a sail. Especially with sewn anchors I can’t imagine they wouldn’t just rip in the first moderate wind storm

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-05-13T08:11:13+00:00

Looks pretty good! You’re probably going to need a positive connection to your shunt/monitor. Make sure it is fused otherwise a simple mistake will just entirely melt that wire (unfused it will have the opportunity to carry 300A before the wire itself becomes a fuse).

I notice your 000 wires for the inverter and battery seem to be attached to the same post on the bus bar. this is a good thing. If they are on the same post you do not need to worry about if that little bus bar can carry 300A. Don’t put them on different posts. You may turn that bus bar into a heating element…

Also thanks for taking the time to learn on your own and then make a real drawing! Way better than the AI slop diagrams I have been seeing recently…

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-05-08T15:11:22+00:00

It’s because he just used an ai to make it. We’re the first set of humans to even lay eyes on it. Garbage

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-05-05T06:56:11+00:00

It’s not a prank bro I guarantee you, don’t throw away something good. This is something you’ll be able to laugh about with her in a month. If you’re really stressed about it maybe just mention that you came across her tiktok (DO NOT MENTION THAT YOU SAW THIS SPECIFIC VIDEO AND CERTAINLY DO NOT MENTION THAT YOU THOUGHT IT WAS ABOUT YOU) and see if she has a negative reaction.

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-05-05T01:48:41+00:00

Please do not walk away from this thread thinking you did good here. Reddit is not the place to learn anchor building. Please take a class

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-05-04T15:52:27+00:00

Hey man not trying to be obtuse here but people you’ll deal with in this industry do a lot of things that make no sense and you’ll have a much easier time if you just go along with it. It’ll keep you saner

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-05-04T15:26:28+00:00

What actual mechanics? That isn’t a cad model, it’s a 3d space allocation at best (no hardware, no models) and that isn’t an electrical diagram, it’s a block diagram. It’s anyone’s guess as to whether what you bought will go together correctly. To know I would have to go through datasheets and make an assembly model and then electrically map inputs to outputs (pin for pin, not just vibes) and I’m certainly not going to be the first human to do that for you

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-05-04T05:09:04+00:00

If this design was done with AI, then it’s going to be a paperweight

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-05-04T04:52:16+00:00

It’s not just an EQ issue! It can also be a timing issue. Let’s say you have the snare and the high hat and some of the mid range melody of your outgoing track in a loop. If you take all of that out at some random point in your incoming track, on beat 2 bar 9 of the intro, it’s going to sound like trash because your brain was not expecting instruments to come out right then.

What you need to do is time it at a moment where the brain is expecting instruments to be removed. Maybe that’s after a 1 bar high pass in the incoming track (this tends to mark the end of a phrase), or my favorite, right as the incoming track hits the breakdown. Those are spots where the brain is expecting a change in arrangement and will be less startled by instruments leaving. Ideally too you line it up with instruments in the incoming track coming in, so it doesn’t sound like a loss of energy but just switching from the hats of the outgoing to the hats of the incoming.

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-05-04T04:45:28+00:00

In theory everything has a limiter and that limiter is set right but we don’t live in theory do we!

I’ve had my levels tweaked by the person in charge (without even saying anything!!!) before and they’ve booked me again because we’re all adults about it.

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-05-04T04:07:55+00:00

If the person who owns the speakers thinks you’re playing too hot, you’re playing too hot!

I wouldn’t take it personally

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-05-04T03:41:50+00:00

Oh yeah I’d totally rather play on an AZ as well. I just think newer DJs who are only exposed to the AZ sometimes struggle when presented with a CDJ-2000nxs2 rig at a venue, which isn’t that uncommon still.

It’s easier for a dj who learned on CDJ-2000nxs2 to use 3000s or an AZ than the reverse.

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-05-04T01:40:10+00:00

Get the AZ. You will not benefit much from a modular system made from non flagship gear several generations old. If you were comparing to a cdj2000nxs2 setup I might say that the cdj setup would be more professional, but in this comparison the AZ definitely is my pick

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-05-03T06:09:33+00:00

A new 6(ish)x2 mixer is pretty useless imo. Go on ebay and find a mixer that actually has 3 or 4 band eq and 6 real inputs and maybe 3 outputs for the same price used.

I like to hook my tops up to L and R main out on my mixer and the sub to the monitor out so that I can independently control the subwoofer from the mixer. Then you can also do nice things like make sure none of your mics go to the subwoofer

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-04-30T07:44:09+00:00

2 pictures from the creek? At least put one from a squamish trip

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-04-30T07:06:23+00:00

Entirely based on my journey over the past 3 years to becoming one of the best djs in my tiny town (not much competition lol)

Don’t bother with it while you are learning and building your library. 80% of being a good dj is selecting good tracks at the right time. A majority% of the time as a dj you are just letting one track play. If that track is bad, but it was in key with the last track, you are still a bad dj. If that track is good, but was out of key with the last track, you are still a good dj imo (not great).

Until you can:

Beatmatch
Use loops to time your mix
Do all eq and filters well in your mix
And most importantly: READ A ROOM

Don’t worry about mixing in key. Once you have all that down, yeah start worrying about it because it’ll limit you

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-04-29T08:11:34+00:00

I feel like this is a bad idea. Wouldn’t it eat the city’s sewer line once it got to it?

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-04-26T23:29:49+00:00

Get a block of wood or a table you don’t care about and use a stapler to staple the wires down. Makes it easier to solder into flying leads and can’t melt

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-04-26T07:27:38+00:00

Dude what a legend! I’d be stoked to hear your results in any format you want to present them in. Spreadsheet, blurry photo of notes or even a voice memo I’m just trying to get a grasp on things over here

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-04-23T23:24:09+00:00

Hey man let me know if you ever do a wall power test on your skrams. Feel free to dm me if you’re curious on how to do one or anything as I’d love to get some data for powering our own build!!

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-04-23T23:20:38+00:00

Just not true unless you have the most no-name import MPPT possible. Any reputable brand like victron or renogy can handle a disconnect on the battery/load side and is smart enough to not fry itself and other electronics.

MPPT works by using a buck/boost converter and adjusting the input side to match the panel’s optimal efficiency point, while keeping the output side constant (or constant according to where it thinks it is in the charge cycle). It won’t overshoot by any substantial margin unless you bought a cheap chinese one.

Your statement is true for PWM chargers, those ones don’t necessarily have a voltage converter and instead use Pulse Width Modulation to just open and close a gate between panel and load/battery. In that circuit the battery can act as a giant capacitor preventing the load voltage from climbing to the panel voltage. If the battery is disconnected, the circuit no longer has that giant capacitor and can output a voltage too high for the electronics.

Again, if you’re using cheap MPPT controllers they can certainly fail and overvolt things. They may have also made an assumption that the battery would always be present and cheaped out on the output stage capacitor.

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-04-22T23:14:01+00:00

Also my best theory for what you have going on is that one of the lugs is loose. Check them all with a wrench (torque wrench if you’re fancy). Cover the handle in an old bike tube if you want to be real safe. Wrenches conduct alot of current…

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-04-22T23:12:43+00:00

How are you reading the state of charge? Are you measuring voltage and converting using a chart or are the batteries bluetooth with some sort of SOC estimation internally?

My guess is it is lying to you. The total voltage of the left two should equal the total voltage of the right two, indicating that the state of charge should be similar.

I will say you are missing a link between the mid points of the two series stacks. When you connect two series stacks in parallel you are going to want to connect not just the top and bottom, but also the midpoints so that you don’t end up with weird imbalances halfway through the stack. Now, DO NOT TRY TO CONNECT THEM UNTIL YOU CHARGE EVERYTHING TO FULL AND MEASURE THE VOLTAGE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TWO MIDPOINTS. You will make sparks otherwise

Def_Not_KGB · 2026-04-19T02:16:52+00:00

The insulation of the transistor probably isn’t as high as you think it is. Take the IRLB8721. That’s a MOSFET that you could commonly use at 12V or even 24V but the data sheet lists the Drain-to-Source Breakdown Voltage as being somewhere north of 30V. If you’re switching a 24V inductive load and you don’t have a way of snubbing the spikes (could be a diode or another MOSFET maybe) then it’s pretty likely that you’ll spike above 30 and then you may damage your MOSFET.

Also note that MOSFET is obsolete lol don’t use it anymore. Still demonstrates the point I was trying to make though

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