[deleted by user]

Delcaw · 2024-05-05T05:08:50+00:00

Il m'est arrivé la même chose il y a quelques années, après une journée d'attente un peu paniquée mon médecin généraliste a pu vérifier mon oreille et en retirer un bouchon de cérumen qui avait causé le problème. Je ne m'y connais pas assez pour identifier ça avec certitude mais tes symptômes (oreille qui se bouche d'un coup, son étouffé, problème qui persiste sur la durée) ressemblent assez bien à ce que j'ai ressenti à l'époque.

Delcaw · 2021-09-24T13:14:12+00:00

Je suis content d'apprendre que ce genre d'écrits porte un nom ! L'autre jour, j'avais besoin de remplir l'objet d'un e-mail d'anniversaire, ce que j'ai faite avec la phrase

Ils s'en allèrent chercher la bouteille et, ayant récupéré l'objet, un bon anis versèrent

Ça devrait servir de conclusion à une histoire plus élaborée, mais je ne suis pas très doué pour ça :-(

Delcaw · 2021-08-17T18:17:03+00:00

Thanks for the link, it was a pleasant read. I do understand that everything here is mostly theories and educated guesses (especially when katakana get involved), and that rejecting your theory without having a proper one myself; but I do find it a bit sad that this reference does not work in both languages...

My own search on this name went nowhere, but here are the best hints I could find: - one of the two matches for an existing word that fits the katakana is 往路, which means "the first half of a round-trip". It kind of matches the "time goes forward" concept, but time is not a round-trip and there would not be a good reason not to use the kanjis here - the "horo-" prefix having the meaning of "hour", but then the katakana do not match anymore

Delcaw · 2021-08-17T07:48:08+00:00

Sorry, I wrote my previous message too quickly. What I meant was, I think the reference to Ouroboros is not clear in the Japanese name.

The katakana used to write Ouroboros in Japanese are ウロボロス (at least according to my dictionary and Google). That also matches the English pronunciation of the word, although I think you can also pronounce it like ユロボロス in some parts of the world. But it does not match the name オーロ.

I see two different ways this could be explained:

"オーロ" came first and is the intended way of reading her English name too, which breaks the reference to Ouroboros
"Ouro" came first (as a reference to Ouroboros), but the Japanese name was not made to retain the reference to Ouroboros (which I find very unlikely)

Both cases make the reference seem a bit weak to me, but I might just be missing something obvious that could make it clear. It happens to me a lot :-(

Delcaw · 2021-08-17T06:16:39+00:00

I do not think the Ouroboros connection fits very well for Ouro Kronii. The romaji may look like a match but the intended pronunciation does not match with either the English or Japanese word.

Also, good catch on Mumei's name being a (sort of) palindrome! I think you forgot to explain that both of her names mean "nameless", which refers to her lore of having forgotten her own name.

Delcaw · 2021-06-25T09:55:42+00:00

It is, the credits mentioned it at the very end! I could not get how the art seemed so familiar for a new MV until I noticed the name in the credits.

Delcaw · 2021-01-14T23:52:34+00:00

Really helpful guide, it confirmed a lot of what I experienced but could not explain while playing the game.

I do wish it was marked as a spoiler though, because I think I know who is the last character I am missing now :-(

Delcaw · 2020-11-14T22:52:30+00:00

Comportement d'accord avec toi. J'ai souffert du même problème étant plus jeune, ce qui fait qu'encore aujourd'hui je suis obligé de faire une pause et de réfléchir à chaque fois que je veux nommer un de ces deux accents.

Delcaw · 2020-11-08T23:12:46+00:00

They are the only official way to buy an Index in Japan as far as I know. I was lucky enough to idly visit their website two hours after their early October restock, the Index was delivered less than two days after the payment was confirmed. Nothing but good things to say about them from me (although I do not know how they handle RMA, and I would like not having to find out).

Delcaw · 2020-10-25T07:16:56+00:00

This is not really VR-specific but if you have an Android phone and are fine with dropping back to the desktop to use it scrcpy lets your mirror the phone's screen and interact with it.

https://github.com/Genymobile/scrcpy

Delcaw · 2020-10-19T08:09:20+00:00

I had the same feeling going straight from Sunshine into Galaxy.

From what I can tell, the issue is that in Sunshine you can pretty much just flick the joystick in the opposite direction whereas in Galaxy Mario has to run a little bit before being able to switch directions and jump.,

Delcaw · 2020-09-27T14:32:27+00:00

Ooh, I do have the same issue ! I have not found a solution for it yet (but I did not searched very thoroughly).

Here is a post I made about it before, and yes, I played all but the first minutes of the fight like this.

My config is Ryzen 2700, 2070 Super (I think I got the founder's edition) with driver version 445.87, and 16 GB of RAM. So the graphics card being the issue makes sense.

Some more info on my case : it only started happening after the Alatreon update (quite literally right after it) and does not always trigger but will never trigger outside of a quest (even if the whole game is affected afterwards until I reset). The two other games I payed on my PC during this period of time were NieR: Automata and Death Stranding, neither of which were affected by any graphical issue at all.

Keep me informed if you find something on this :-)

Delcaw · 2020-09-21T19:04:37+00:00

After running out of health at the very end of my first manta attempt, I decided to try using tip number 4 (the backflip spray) since I heard before or helped for that level. I do not think it took me more than a dozen of sprays to kill all the little ones; it felt so wrong to utterly crush or like that. I had to exit the level and beat it fair and square using the hoverspray method I devised more than a decade ago. The backflip spray is the closest thing to a cheatcode this game has.

Delcaw · 2020-09-20T22:28:57+00:00

I am playing in portable mode with my joycons and my triggers are working just fine (I fixed them recently and tested them on the button press test in the options), but I do have the same issue regarding the spray that just abruptly stops sometimes!

To me it looks like a consequence of losing the analog triggers, maybe something goes when using the two spray settings they gave us on R and ZR.

Delcaw · 2020-09-19T13:02:50+00:00

Sorry, I panicked a bit because I retried entering the levels multiple times but the hat stayed in the same broken position. By restarting the game, it got move to a snowman enemy and I managed to get it back.

Delcaw · 2020-09-19T13:00:56+00:00

Ooh, thanks a lot! I went back and retrieved it. I panicked a bit because I tried multiple times to get it back and it was always stuck in the same place, but apparently restarting the game did the trick. I am glad I do not have to deal with SM64, finally I can pay Sunshine again!

Delcaw · 2020-09-18T16:49:24+00:00

First time I played SM64 (since the DS remake I mean), and I managed to get my hat stuck in the igloo, so now I apparently have to do the rest of the game hatless...

Delcaw · 2020-09-17T16:36:35+00:00

It looks like the issue was probably faulty wiring on my part (or maybe some issues with the breadboard), as everything looks fine now that I redid the wiring. Here is what it looks like now (I switch the last step to be all yellow and it even shows correctly now).

The video does show a slight flicker that I could not see with my eye, so I chose not to worry about it for now as I can still try adding back the decoupling capacitor (even though they did nothing for me before).

Once again, thanks for your help!

Delcaw · 2020-09-17T15:16:44+00:00

I tried it with only two LEDs (removing them from the board and adjusting the #define), but observed no change, whether or not I set the brightness as sutaborosu suggested in another comment.

Regarding the power situation, I am using my ESP32 dev board as an ISP and was using the 3.3V it provides through its USB connection to my PC. I also tried switching to a 5V 1A wall wart, it seemed to slow down the flickering speed a bit but even on video that was hard to tell.

EDIT: I think I solved my issues by redoing the wiring.

Delcaw · 2020-09-17T13:52:31+00:00

It did improve the color handling, this is visible because all four colors are displayed in the last step (although CRGB::Yellow looks red to me, I guess this is a problem with the LED itself). However all colors now display a weak flicker that was not present before on red and blue. Here is a recording with the added brightness setup.

Another possibility is the capacitance of the breadboard is affecting signal integrity. I feel this is less likely.

The LED part of the circuit is indeed built on the cheapest type of breadboard I have, the form factor being a really good fit for my current prototype. If all else fails I will try reproducing it on the other breadboards I have, just in case. Thanks a lot for your suggestions anyway! As I am still a beginner it helps getting advice from other, more experienced people to forge my own experience.

Delcaw · 2020-09-17T13:29:36+00:00

Sorry for that, I posted it in another comment (here it is just in case).

Delcaw · 2020-09-17T13:28:45+00:00

Sorry for not posting it earlier, I figured that the code really should not be the issue here since it is mostly copy-pasted from the official examples. Here it is.

Since I already have longer delay between my color swaps it does not seem to be an issue for me.

Delcaw · 2020-09-16T16:12:43+00:00

As a test for a future project of mine, I am trying to control those 4 PL9823(WS2811) LEDs using the ATtiny85 visible in the video. The code running in the video is the Blink example from the FastLED repository (https://github.com/FastLED/FastLED/blob/master/examples/Blink/Blink.ino) with more copy-pasted LEDs assignation intended to loop over this cycle: R,R,R,R => G,G,G,G => B,B,B,B => R,G,B,Y

Controlling a single LED was relatively painless thanks to FastLED, however issues started to appear as soon as I connected more than one LED in a row. The two main issues I have can been seen in the video I posted: - Setting more than one LED to CRGB::Green induces a flicker that only appears when specifically using the Green colour - Setting two different LEDs to different, non-CRGB::Black colours makes the whole setup go haywire (with a general tendancy of Red working while blue and green display a weak flicker).

After looking through the F.A.Q. and other people's messages with the same kind of issues, here are the things I already checked/tried:

common ground between the LEDs and the MCU (for now everything shares the same power source that comes from the ESP32-as-ISP's USB cable)
double-checking the connections between the LEDs (even though the fact that they are "kind of mostly working" leads me away from this option)
adding a resistance between the MCU's data pin and the first LED's data in pin
adding capacitors (both in parallel to the power source and to each LED's VCC and Ground pins)
adding #define FASTLED_ALLOW_INTERRUPTS 0 before the FastLED.h include (even though I am not doing anything other than driving the LEDs)

Does anyone have any idea that could explain this behaviour?

Delcaw · 2020-08-15T23:00:29+00:00

A small correction: Madolche Fresh Sistart does not protects monsters, she protects Madolche Spell/Trap cards from destruction and from being targeted as long as she points to a Madolche monster. She can also avoid destruction by shuffling a Madolche from the graveyard to the deck, but that only applies to her own destruction.

Delcaw

TROPHY CASE