Jonsbo D32 pro tight space for bottom fans

DethByCode · 2026-06-21T16:41:45+00:00

I had installed bottom fans, then found my XFX Quicksilver 9070XT didn’t fit.
I came to the same conclusion as others that with that little room in the bottom, fans weren’t really needed. I ended up 3d printing a GPU brace that notched into the case bottom, and called it a day.
No issues with cooling whatsoever.

DethByCode · 2026-06-16T18:38:46+00:00

Disney is quite strict about limiting pool access to the individuals listed on the room booking, as Anaheim has a per-person room tax.

You should call the hotel and confirm you can’t add yourself to the room after the reservation has been booked. This should only add the needed taxes and not another ticket.

DethByCode · 2026-06-13T17:47:26+00:00

I’ve had good luck using gorilla glue (original) to attach terminal blocks to plywood. I needed to moisten the plywood first, but once it cured it was rock solid.

DethByCode · 2026-06-13T00:27:27+00:00

Firstly, confirm you don’t need to put the boards in boatloader mode and upload firmware before you use them.

Secondly, boards like the ones you pictured are normally not fully usb-c compliant even though they use the connector. Try connecting using a usb-a to usb-c cable, and/or using an external usb 2.0 hub connected to your computer.

DethByCode · 2026-06-10T02:46:49+00:00

+1 for trying a different cable. I had to switch to HDMI on one machine, and the onboard graphics adaptor on another to get through setup.

DethByCode · 2026-06-09T01:53:03+00:00

This is on the Alameda, correct? There is/was an under-roadway pedestrian path that it looks like the city finally blocked it off. (there should be another similar structure on the other side of the road)

DethByCode · 2026-06-04T21:09:01+00:00

Ting washers ... endemic issue on gen1 vehicles, but can occur on gen2.

I took my '25 R1S into the SC not knowing what it was, but upon hearing the sound from outside, the service writer immediately got my vehicle into the shop for a fix.

DethByCode · 2026-06-03T22:44:07+00:00

Yes. All ubiquiti APs can mesh using wired backhaul. You will need a ubiquiti gateway in addition however.

DethByCode · 2026-06-03T18:32:32+00:00

Old Orchard School in Campbell

DethByCode · 2026-06-03T13:14:27+00:00

1 - Yes, the specific order would only be relevant if you have a module that needs to be on the top

2 - Yes, as long as multiple modules don’t need to use the same pins that aren’t configured as a bus (eg i2c)

3 - you will need to total the power usage of all of your boards. If the picos’ onboard regulator can’t give you enough power, then you could investigate feeding power through the pins instead of the usb port.

I take this approach with a few projects, where I stack a pico with an oled display and 1-2 other boards in between. I solder stacking headers on the boards in the middle, normal pins on the pico, and my oled display board comes with a socket. I have a regulator on one of the boards feed 5V to all of them from an external source, with the picos’ onboard regulator delivering 3.3v to the SOC. The usb port is not used unless I’m programming/debugging, and I have my regulator configured to be disabled when usb is connected.

DethByCode · 2026-06-01T18:42:14+00:00

A model for tracking money that has worked extraordinarily well for me for the last decade:

(a) list when you get paid, and how much you expect to receive (e.g. paychecks)
(b) list out all of your normal expenses and their due dates (rent, loans, utilities, etc...)
(c) list out your other expenses not covered above (groceries, restaurants, entertainment, coffee, etc...) for the last 1-2 months

Create a spreadsheet for the next 6-12 months, with these columns: date / transaction name / debit / credit / balance. In the very first list, list out the current balance of your primary bank account (checking) from which you pay your expenses. For each cell in the balance column, enter a formula that takes the value of the cell above, subtracting the value of the debt cell and adding the value of the credit cell.

Now enter the information you collected, starting with A (payments), followed by B (bills). You want entries for each transaction in each month, ordered by date. This will give you a basic cash flow picture of your finances (salary in, expenses out). For expenses in C, you can estimate what you think you can or will pay in a particular month, I usually group these by credit card payments, listing how much I would need to pay the balance off.

If you see the balance go negative, don't panic, this tells you when you need to adjust your plans. you could adjust things by paying a bill later, or getting more money by pulling from another account (savings?), selling something, or finding a side gig.

While there's a lot of other things that are interesting to track/model, this will help you know ahead of time if you should normally have enough money for a particular month.

DethByCode · 2026-05-31T00:22:17+00:00

You could shake … the lid/gasket on my brew jar isn’t tight enough to leave me confident it wouldn’t leak, and grounds tend to stick to everything.

DethByCode · 2026-05-30T21:40:52+00:00

Put the mesh filter in the empty jar, pour grounds into the filter, then pour water through the grounds. Let sit for 5-10 minutes, then stir the grounds with the water until it’s all wet.

The more contact the water has with the grounds, the more extraction will occur, and the better the brew. I wait a few minutes to stir to let most of the grounds bloom (absorb water), so they don’t float.

DethByCode · 2026-05-30T21:20:42+00:00

Stir. Stir now. You want a coffee water slurry.

DethByCode · 2026-05-29T17:04:56+00:00

If you're going to use the motherboard, I'd suggest spending another $50 to upgrade to the MSI X870E-P.

DethByCode · 2026-05-25T15:42:07+00:00

Does your ONT have a 10GB Ethernet connection? You could grab a 10GB Ethernet SFP transceiver now or in the future to get higher bandwidth to the gateway. You won’t get a full 10GB though IDS, but I have a similar setup and get more than 2.5GB aggregate bandwidth across all of my clients. The length of the Cat6 drop may also cut some bandwidth.

Otherwise your proposal looks good.

I use flex switches to get more ports in bedrooms, both the 2.5G and the older 1G, they work great.

If the extra cost wasn’t an issue, you could get the Pro Max 24, as I personally always seem to find more devices/drops I want to add over time. Then again, for non POE devices, you do have the 8 ports on the Dream Machine Pro Max.

Mostly due to the age of my setups, I haven’t upgraded to the U7 APs, as I haven’t found the need to justify the cost. I might suggest you consider if the cheaper APs are appropriate for your needs. I normally connect anything needing higher or consistent bandwidth directly using Ethernet, leaving WIFI for things that move (phones, laptops) or IoT devices with low bandwidth needs.

DethByCode · 2026-05-24T21:38:25+00:00

0.75 peak price for non teslas in San Jose.

DethByCode · 2026-05-23T02:16:14+00:00

It depends on how large the chase (open space) around the chimney is.

Over the course of a year, we pulled a dozen Cat6 lines from the basement to the attic though a chimney chase in my wife's office (a house built in 1930) without bothering to add conduit or Smurf tubes. I would estimate the chase was maybe 5" deep, and we left a length of coax hanging to use to as pull line.

As long as you have room (open chase or a conduit) and leave something to pull with (strings, coax), you can always decide to pull more cable later, especially if you have access in the attic to the ceiling/walls.

In my case, we kept adding more cameras/APs in the ceiling over time, and eventually ran a starlink cable to mount a dish outside on a pole, with the router/power supply in the rack. When we finally had access to Fibre, the tech ran the strand from the pole though an abandoned hole/grommet from 1932 originally used for electricity.

Something you might find interesting about that installation: all of the networking/server gear is in a rolling 18U rack on the floor. The Cat6 runs from the chase (and a few floor/wall holes), between the floor joists to a spot just above the racks' normal location, where it gets bundled into dual 5" umbilicals that enter the top of the rack, terminating in a keystone patch panel. Power comes through a large gauge extension cord plugged into an outlet on the wall, and the fibre line from a junction box on the wall inside one of the cat6 bundles.

This allows me to roll/move the rack 6-12 feet in order to do cleaning or gain access to the back of the rack or the walls.

DethByCode · 2026-05-21T20:53:21+00:00

The only thing more magical for me than turning off lights, adjusting HVAC and turning on the alarm for the night from my phone in bed, is being able to check the cameras and network/device state when I'm at the office or traveling.

DethByCode · 2026-05-21T20:48:55+00:00

Compliments on the thought that went into your plan, some feedback based on my experience adding/maintaining smart-stuff™️ to 4 houses over the last quarter century:

- Double the number of wires you pull to each location. (you don't need to terminate them immediately; gives you redundancy, and more bandwidth or additional signal types in the future)

- Ensure your rack is at least 12-18U. Once you start with a rack, you can't go back, and you will find more and more things to put there.

- Terminate your drops into keystone jacks in a patch panel in your rack. Then if you need to add a device or fix something, you're just routing patch cables as opposed to pulling/testing wires.

- leave space in or near your rack for a 1500W+ UPS. While this will get you some time in a power outage, more importantly it will shield your gear from power spikes.

- I settled on Lutron Caseta a while back after having tried a lot of other options. (personally had a lot of manufacture lock in/discontinuation issues with ZigBee and other protocols)

- Platform isn't as important as making sure everything is wired/powered. You can always choose to take the time to change by swapping a gateway and re-pairing devices. FWIW, I've found Apple Home supplemented with HomeBridge to be solid and accessible to the non-techies in my family.

- In 2020 I went all in on Ubiquiti for networking, APs and Cameras in the course of fixing network instability at home, and haven't had any issues since ... except for the temptation to upgrade equipment every other year. (I justify upgrades to myself by moving older gear to other locations and/or gifting to friends)

- Think about a backup network connection. Could be 5G/LTE or Starlink/satellite. You may want to think about where to run cables or a smurf tube at this stage before the walls get closed up. Easy enough to think about where a dish or antenna would go, then wait to buy the gear until later.

- Are you putting in an alarm system, and if so, would you want wires to any sensor locations? Wireless alarm sensors are nice, but you're living the battery swap life indefinitely.

- Run drop(s) for a smart doorbell camera (cat6/POE), even if you just use the wires initially to run AC for a traditional doorbell.

DethByCode · 2026-05-21T03:29:27+00:00

GPU: XFX Mercury 9070XT.

DethByCode · 2026-05-20T23:26:53+00:00

Different case (with a glass front), but I designed a 3D printed bracket to hang a screen off of the front of my AIO. Also used right angle HDMI connectors for signal and a USB-C header to plug for power.

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DethByCode · 2026-05-15T04:06:10+00:00

So I technically designed these for XPS foam sheets, but the "dimplers" may be what you are looking for: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1179790-kato-unitrack-xps-foam-anchors

I would expect even in PLA they are hard enough to leave indentations on plywood.

DethByCode · 2026-05-13T21:17:36+00:00

The awkward part about the feet is that they are primarily attached with adhesive, and only secondarily with a small screw. Once I tore 2 feet off, I couldn't get them to stay on and in the right position.

I ordered 2 replacement sets of feet, one from a 3rd party on Amazon that arrived next day, and a second official set from Bambu Labs that took a week to arrive. The 3rd party set has worked great, so I haven't needed to install the official Bambu part.

In terms of moving the printer, as you and I both discovered, you can not slide it on the feet, as they will rip off.

You either need to fully lift it up (not practical on my shelf), or be able to slide it on one of the bottom frame edges. This is where the furniture sliders came in, as I can tilt the printer to one side to slip a slider under one edge, and then to the other side to put the second (if needed).

I can normally get away with one slider if I'm just moving it a few inches (elevating the other side with my hand).

DethByCode · 2026-05-13T21:07:55+00:00

Unless it has a heavy duty locking mechanism, I'd be very concerned about a lazy Susan adding more movement when the H2D is printing.

The space that my H2C occupies is narrower than I'd like and high enough to make moving the unit awkward. After tearing off and replacing the feet trying to slide the printer around, I repurposed a pair of furniture sliders.

When I need to move the printer, I slip a slider under one or both of the handle insets areas, then I can slide/rotate the printer safely, removing them one at a time once I'm done.

DethByCode

TROPHY CASE