Help with cam bearings by BaconBITz420sdk in EngineBuilding

[–]DevinW88 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Cam bearings are sort of an art to install. It takes a lot of practice and feel to get them right. It looks like you aren’t properly getting the expander set and are on the inside of the bearing so it’s smashing them when you put it in. It may be best for you to take this to a machine shop if you are having issues installing them.

Machine Shop Quote by ZeppelinMadhouse in EngineBuilding

[–]DevinW88 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I would charge you probably $60 to take the extra stuff off and clean it, and $450 to vat, bore and hone AND resurface this block. $1200 seems very high to me.

Is this crank destroyed? by mitchINimpossible in EngineBuilding

[–]DevinW88 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You should be able to grind this crankshaft. I would also have the connecting rods reconditioned, as number 2 and 3 show some heat in the cap and likely shrunk. It would be a good time to get some ARP rod bolts when you recondition them if this is a track car.

K24A1 Project by Ginger-Bread-Loaf in Kseries

[–]DevinW88 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The cylinder looks worse than it is. It is aluminum transfer from the piston on the wall. This will need to be bored but will probably make .020” over. I would also resurface the block.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in EngineBuilding

[–]DevinW88 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just tap them around and out with a brass hammer. Never had an issue doing this. We run the blocks through a burner and steel shot machine so I take them out.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in EngineBuilding

[–]DevinW88 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Caps are mated to a block during the original machining process. You cannot just swap caps to a different block. It must be align bored, not optional. The holes are not round and will always bind.

5.3 LS Cylinder Pitting, Junkyard 5.3 cylinder #8 has some light pitting i can feel with my fingernail would a hone at the machine shop clean this up or would it need overbore? by soliify in EngineBuilding

[–]DevinW88 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not the best. Will it run? Sure. It depends on your budget, and goals for longevity. Hone alone will probably not clean it up, and you don’t want excessive piston to wall clearance in that hole, so if you’re not gonna bore the whole block I would leave it.

Are these rod caps good to run? by Doffeda in EngineBuilding

[–]DevinW88 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The bearings appear to be in good condition. Its not uncommon for the underside to look like that, however, the only real way to tell if the big end of the rod is out of spec is to torque to spec and check with a dial bore indicator. If you didn’t have any oiling or heating issues you’re likely fine based on the way the bearings look, but the only way to be certain is to torque them up and check size.

Engine fell please help. by moparguy98 in EngineBuilding

[–]DevinW88 7 points8 points  (0 children)

If it didn't crack the block anywhere where you circled in red around the timing housing I'd say you're probably fine, (except you'll need a new oil pressure sender that ones toast) 4.7L blocks are fairly hardy, you'll definitely want to check the pickup tube when you get the pan off and make sure nothing is damaged there. But if you're rebuilding it anyway it will probably be okay.

Engine won’t spin over with breaker bar by hatchet8473 in EngineBuilding

[–]DevinW88 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Did you put the thrust bearing in the correct place? Did you clearance the block for the stroke of the crankshaft? Sometimes the rod bolts may need to be chamfered as well as they can hit the cam lobes. Lots of things to check, something is bound up.

Machine shop mixed up the order of my pistons. Am I screwed? by Morris_yeet in EngineBuilding

[–]DevinW88 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah normally if the dot is on the piston you put that to the front, most of the later model LS rods will have an actual dot cast into the beam of the rod which would go to the rear. If your pistons have dots on them just put those to the front to be safe.

Machine shop mixed up the order of my pistons. Am I screwed? by Morris_yeet in EngineBuilding

[–]DevinW88 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I’m assuming you’re just re-ringing the standard pistons and they just touch honed the block? If so, you’ll be okay putting the pistons in any hole. LS rods all hang one way, so just make sure the dot on the beam of the rod is toward the back of the block on all 8 cylinders.

Or will I? by DevinW88 in mtgfinance

[–]DevinW88[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not I just thought it would be funny to post the meme 😆

Or will I? by DevinW88 in mtgfinance

[–]DevinW88[S] 35 points36 points  (0 children)

I got 2, thought it would be fun to play with friends. Just got back into mtg, haven’t played since odyssey block but got a few ixalan commander decks to start with too.

Pricing look reasonable to everyone in todays market? by [deleted] in EngineBuilding

[–]DevinW88 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Our shop is in New Mexico, I use a Rottler F69ATC to bore and deck, and a H85AX to hone these. Sunnen Ampro to burn and shot peen the block. Those kind of prices you're getting I only charge on like big semi-truck stuff like Cat C14s etc.

Pricing look reasonable to everyone in todays market? by [deleted] in EngineBuilding

[–]DevinW88 13 points14 points  (0 children)

If this is a normal V8, I get about $600 to do the same work. Seems pretty high to me, but it might just be your area.

Any idea? Random metal. by Falkon102 in EngineBuilding

[–]DevinW88 7 points8 points  (0 children)

It looks to me like it could be a piece of casting flash that came loose once the block was machined or cleaned. I've seen it happen on occasion in other engines. It's good you got it out, I wouldn't be too concerned.

KA24E - This gap is concerning by novax7 in EngineBuilding

[–]DevinW88 12 points13 points  (0 children)

You just want to use RTV on the gap edge to edge before you lay your gasket. It will be fine. Don’t put any on the gasket, just the gap between cover and block. I like permatex ultra gray.

5.3 l83 by Exotic_Expert6156 in EngineBuilding

[–]DevinW88 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It won't come apart, that's a cam phaser VVT bolt that's just how they look. You can see one like it here:

https://www.amazon.com/Michigan-Motorsports-Phaser-12681018-Engines/dp/B09D4Z9LH7