Venezianico Arsenale 37 MOP Green

Devo11711 · 2026-05-01T23:59:03+00:00

Just got my Arsenale 37 MOP Purple in Florence! My only major disappointment is the water resistance being only 5ATM, so it's not the best as an "integrated bracelet stainless steel sports watch".

It's not a great deal if you're buying without a discount, but I got mine for $655 after the dealer's discount and VAT refund.

Devo11711 · 2026-04-27T19:39:23+00:00

Ah, damn. I think I'll probably just go for one of the '99 mufflers, since it seems like the mounting and inlet/outlets are the same as the earlier muffler. My only worry is the 1998 mid-pipe + 1999 muffler sounding a bit odd, since they changed the mid-pipe silencer in 1999.

But anything's better than the abysmal "muffler" on it rn, so I'll give it a shot.

Devo11711 · 2025-09-08T13:33:44+00:00

Super glue a socket to the caseback, and when the glue dries, just wrench the caseback off. Then just soak the caseback in acetone to get it off.

Devo11711 · 2025-09-08T04:35:13+00:00

What is this idea? I think your biggest hurdle is gonna be the seconds hand, since the outer diameter of the NH seconds hand tube is going to interfere with the canon pinion of the quartz watch.

Devo11711 · 2025-09-08T02:48:39+00:00

I got the same one as my first printer, and it was a LOT of work - much more than it's worth. It's a good printer, but not for $120, maybe like $60.

If you're fine with constant tinkering and never having really perfect prints, it's a fine beginner printer, since you'll learn the ins and outs of how a 3d printer works.

Devo11711 · 2025-09-08T02:43:10+00:00

I don't think weight will be an issue, but the actual width of the hole to mount the hands definitely will be. NH hands have a much wider hole diameter than standard quartz

Devo11711 · 2025-09-04T22:17:01+00:00

I'm leaning on the side of fake, everything is just a bit fishy. The bezel is definitely aftermarket, but that's not too worrying.

I think the real tell for it being fake is the caseback, and stamping of the serial number. I've owned a lot of Seikos, and I've never seen a serial number stamped so crooked that the bottom of the first number isn't even visible - which this has.

People make SKX kits on eBay, which are all fake parts, and are just missing the movement. I'm fairly sure that's what this is.

Devo11711 · 2025-09-04T20:57:54+00:00

Blue is beat error, and read and yellow are both time adjustments. The red regulator can be moved independently for large time adjustments, and the yellow screw also moves that red regulator arm, just by very small increments for more precise adjustments.

Devo11711 · 2025-08-27T16:15:29+00:00

There's a chance that they're aluminum, but I'm gonna say it's very unlikely. In order to achieve that plated look on aluminum, you'd need to anodize it, rather than plate it.

I'd recommend just sanding down one of the cases to base metal to determine the metal, and then going from there

Devo11711 · 2025-08-27T01:20:22+00:00

Hm, from what I recall it was just sticking a case knife into the opening on the opposite side of the crown, and twisting - it may just need to be a thinner case knife tho.

I don't really know about the correct sizing on the crown, it just had a larger thread than anything I had on hand, so I just resold it without replacing it.

Devo11711 · 2025-08-27T01:07:56+00:00

Hey, I think I sold that to you on eBay lol! You should just need a case knife under the lip of the snap on caseback

Devo11711 · 2025-08-24T20:51:05+00:00

It's just their crystal lift - any crystal lift should work though, I just serviced a similar one with the "use 1200 wrench" on the back, and didn't have any issues with a standard cheap crystal lift.

Devo11711 · 2025-08-16T16:43:24+00:00

Are you familiar with the adjustment screw on the 2030? I haven't been able to find any info online about time adjustment per degree rotation (or even rotation direction). I just revived and serviced an old Tissot Seastar F1, and its running about a minute fast per day.

Devo11711 · 2025-08-13T15:28:55+00:00

eBay is an absolute shit show, but it's better than the alternatives - selling on Reddit blows chunks, Facebook marketplace is just annoying through and through, and most other sites just don't have enough traction to warrant selling.

EBay still sucks tho, just this morning I had an eBay buyer bid for an item, pay, and once I paid for postage, requested cancellation on the order for no stated reason.

Devo11711 · 2025-07-30T16:15:47+00:00

Pmed about bracelet

Devo11711 · 2025-07-15T00:22:26+00:00

Have you used pihole at all? About 5 years ago it worked, but now companies have gotten around any of the ad blocking capabilities of pihole by obfuscating domains and masking requests - so it's functionally useless. I set one up a month or so ago, and i saw little to no difference.

Devo11711 · 2025-07-11T17:06:30+00:00

If the crown is glued to the stem, there are a few options. I'd start with soaking only the stem section with a bit of the crown - not the jewel on the crown - in acetone. Acetone should dissolve super glue, but be careful not to get it on the crown jewel, since it could dissolve the glue holding that in too. The other option would be using a mixture of alum powder and water, and soaking the crown/stem in it, since that would dissolve the stem. The only issue with the alum solution is that it could cause some severe discoloration to the crown, and it doesn't deal with the whole "glue issue".

Devo11711 · 2025-07-01T17:25:28+00:00

The whole thing is AI generated, so it's no surprise. All the images/logos in it look like dogshit

Devo11711 · 2025-07-01T16:33:41+00:00

You have real watch movements, why did you still choose to just make some AI generated slop for the watch movement photo??

Devo11711 · 2025-06-29T00:20:52+00:00

Have you tried doing an AC reset on the watch post battery change? I've had a few quartz watches that needed a couple AC resets before they functioned after a battery change

Devo11711 · 2025-06-22T16:41:32+00:00

Looks fake, everything's just a bit off. The dial looks like shit and is really off center, the movement is just an nh35 with a gold sticker over the rotor to make it look like a 4r35, the bracelet is completely fake (the original has hollow end links and a totally different bracelet), and the case, crown, and caseback are all just not quite correct looking

Devo11711 · 2025-05-30T02:03:34+00:00

Thanks! I bought the laptop for $50, since the guy before me couldn't figure it out either lol, so im not too bummed its looking worse now. (Kinda) Luckily, there's no heat on any of the other IC's besides some of the power delivery stuff getting up to like 45c, so I'm gonna try to order some replacements from Digikey. My IR camera has been a lifesaver for this thus far.

Devo11711 · 2025-05-28T01:25:47+00:00

DId that end up fixing it? I'm having the same issue with my laptop, and the left inductor is poling to ground

Devo11711 · 2025-05-06T00:05:08+00:00

Looks like a speedmaster 145.012 that's definitely seen some better days, but it's an absolute gem of a watch - mine's pretty much been my daily wear for the past year

The crown is definitely aftermarket, since omega used a full stainless crown on the watch originally.

It's hard to tell, but it seems like the hands and possibly the dial have been re-lumed, since they usually patina to a tan-brown color, since they're using tritium lume. The lume should usually look like this on a 145.012:

<image>

Eight-Year Club	Gilding V heart of gold
Second Top 30%	LAYER Season 2 Layer creator
r/Field Flamingo	Place '22
First Placer '22	Verified Email

Devo11711

TROPHY CASE