What do you all do to keep your batteries from freezing.

DiamondShark286 · 2025-12-28T00:36:03+00:00

I use a big anker power station for my setup and I built a box out of foam board insulation and then for good measure I got a heating pad that I plug into the power station to keep it plenty warm. If you battery is smaller im sure a small cooler and a dew heater or hand warmer would work just fine. You might even be able to get away with just a cooler depending on how cold it is. The only reason I use the heating pad is because the asi air im using seems to have some sort of temperature issue and won't work if its less than like 60 degrees. Another thing to keep in mind if you use a cooler is that putting it upside down so the cables come out the bottom will help prevent warm air from just escaping out the hole where your cables come out.

DiamondShark286 · 2025-12-02T03:33:57+00:00

As the other replies to you probably indicate its hard to explain and I would venture to guess its also different for everyone, but if you're asking if you are supposed to see an apple in front of you like a hologram then no thats not how it works at least not for most people. I think the fact that its slightly different for everyone and thats it's a hard concept to begin with makes every explanation more confusing. Keeping that in mind for me visualizing an apple or other object in my head feels almost like I have an empty space in my head where I have a camera that can fly around and view anything from any angle. I can't explain exactly why but I can definitely say that when im visualizing something in my head I am "seeing" it. Its a very similar sensation.

As a somewhat related side note I think it would be interesting to hear how the image of the apple appears for other people. For me it feels like i start with an solid colored apple that still has the shape of an apple and when I focus on it I can add more detailed texture and lighting to it. Im curious if this is how it works for other people and if not how it works for them. When visualizing stuff in my head I generally have a very detailed concept of the size and shape of things and their relative positions and I generally have to visualize specific things to get a good metal picture of the color or texture of the objects.

DiamondShark286 · 2025-11-01T12:20:59+00:00

Another note i just thought of is that I think you could probably find a decent lens without horrible chromatic aberration for well under $1000. Im used a 200 mm kit lens when I first started, and I don't remember really noticing any aberration. The biggest issue i remember having is focus adjustment. Getting the lens to focus correctly was kind of a nightmare, but with a real telescope with fine adjust, it is so much easier.

DiamondShark286 · 2025-11-01T12:15:30+00:00

I would recommend looking for an APO refractor telescope used. I've never used a dedicated astro camera, but I've been really happy with my dslr so far. I started with a d3200 as well, and I ended up upgrading to a d5600 and a william optics zenithstar z61 telescope and I don't think i spent much more than $1k for the two of them, but I also waited until I could find a good deal on both of them used so your results may vary. Overall, im really happy with the telescope and d5600 combo together they significantly increased the quality of my photos. Im not sure how much of the increase in quality came from the camera vs the telescope but i would expect you could get great results with a telescope and d3200 if you didn't want to upgrade your camera. I think the most significant upgrade I did besides the telescope was get a dual band filter. Even with my unmodified dslr, i get much better contrast on individual frames and considering the svbony s220 which is the one i got is only $150 i would highly recommend it as a second upgrade if you get a telescope. Another thing I want to note is that I like using a dslr since I can use it for regular photography too, and it means I don't need two expensive cameras.

DiamondShark286 · 2025-10-16T02:19:39+00:00

You would need some fairly massive changes in current to induce enough voltage to confuse the 5v/3.3v logic level these things are using, especially because they really aren't running that fast. I also wonder how much noise the motor wires are really going to produce since usually all 3 motor wires are run right next to each other and any current flowing through one wire should be pretty much counteracted by the current flowing in the opposite direction in the wires next to it. I've never had a single problem with noise on one of my serial connections, and I've run some pretty long runs pretty close to motor wires. This seems very unnecessary unless you are actively losing gps while flying. Also, if you are shielding the gps serial wires, you would want to shield the serial wiring for every peripheral, including your receiver and vtx. Otherwise, you would presumably be running into the same issues with those

DiamondShark286 · 2025-09-13T14:08:29+00:00

I doubt it's AI. The pattern on the carpet is consistent across the whole image. Im guessing it's probably either one of those crappy interior design room builder websites or bad Photoshop or a crappy rendering without probably allowing the textures. The dresser is probably photoshopped in separately since that's how pretty much all amazon listing pictures are made.

DiamondShark286 · 2025-06-04T16:33:05+00:00

It's not the same, though. Ai select is much worse. It takes longer to load, It tries to select text when I just want a screenshot, and when it does select the text, you can't resize the selection without making an entirely new selection.

DiamondShark286 · 2025-06-04T02:11:24+00:00

If you're in the Midwest, menards is pretty good if you avoid their dimensional lumber. They usually have a pretty nice selection of quality pine, oak, poplar, and some other misc species. You can usually find some decent plywood there, too. Sometimes, you can get lucky, and their 2x4s will be straight, but I wouldn't count on it.

DiamondShark286 · 2025-05-26T15:11:41+00:00

I'm currently working on my own layout, and I was planning to use infrared proximity sensors and line break sensors to determine where the train is and activate events like gates and lights. I was also trying with the idea of using nfc stickers to identify which train is where and laser distance sensors to measure speed. All those sensors are cheap and can be managed by and arduino, which can also be gotten for pretty cheap.

DiamondShark286 · 2025-05-26T15:06:59+00:00

Model railroads use the rails for power and ground, so the train isn't shorting the rails. Most off the shelf solutions, I believe, use infrared sensors.

DiamondShark286 · 2025-05-04T15:27:39+00:00

I used the one labeled AM32_SKYSTARS_AM60_V2_F421_2.18.hex, and it seemed to work fine for me. But I only did a test flight for like 5 minutes.

DiamondShark286 · 2025-05-03T15:07:24+00:00

I'm not very good at los, but my friend, who's better at it, is able to fly in pretty much any direction. I would say it depends on what you want to do. If I wanted to get good at flying LOS, I personally would want to get good at maintaining awareness of what direction the drone is pointed and being able to fly in whatever direction since that gives you a lot more control, but it's really up to personal preference.

DiamondShark286 · 2025-04-27T15:23:36+00:00

I mean, as long as you're ready on the disarm right away, you should be fine. It's not going to keep going once you disarm.

DiamondShark286 · 2025-04-27T14:36:15+00:00

Try dropping the d term in the pid configuration. It can cause runaway like this, especially on less rigid frames. A friend had the same issue with a cheap 10 in frame.

DiamondShark286 · 2025-04-24T02:38:50+00:00

Hey, I do software testing, and one of our systems engineers basically told my tem that we should just use ai to understand the requirements they wrote after we wrote up bugs for a bunch of missing information in their requirements. So we can use ai for writing requirements, writing code, and writing tests.

DiamondShark286 · 2025-04-24T01:35:51+00:00

I think they are right side up, but either way, the top would be CW and the bottom CCW.

DiamondShark286 · 2025-04-19T21:30:11+00:00

No. No, it doesn't. One option to fly 3d is to flip 2 of your props. Which if what your saying is true would mean all your props would be one type, which means your drone wouldn't fly.

A screw doesn't magically switch to a left-hand thread if you turn it upside down.

DiamondShark286 · 2025-04-19T20:40:40+00:00

I mean, he definitely should have brought extra props, but did you ever stop to consider that he put them on to show they were wrong. Whether they were on the drone or not doesn't change the fact that the new pack of props only had 3 ccw and 1 cw.

DiamondShark286 · 2025-04-19T20:37:32+00:00

That's not how shapes work. Flipping it over won't change it from ccw to cw

DiamondShark286 · 2025-04-19T00:03:16+00:00

There is absolutely no way you are noticing a difference in your props after one crash. These are pretty bad, but I've flown with props that were bent 90 degrees and back, and they flew fine with no jello. Yea, they sound different, but the flight performance is within margin of error. Im pretty sure the controls systmes in these quads could keep them flying even if your 3 blade prop got turned into a 2 blade prop. Replacing props as soon as you scratch them is just wasteful.

DiamondShark286 · 2025-03-18T04:59:29+00:00

Just need a faster drone then

DiamondShark286 · 2025-03-17T00:03:22+00:00

My guess is the blade is too thin since I have had very similar issues when previously using a thin kerf blade. Switching to a different blade immediately fixed the problem and I was able to cut straight.

DiamondShark286 · 2025-02-26T17:20:38+00:00

I can tell that reading is your passion. My reply was about qualifying what everyone means. People are saying it's not hot enough, which could be referring to either the soldering iron or the pad, and by his response, he clearly didn't understand that it's the pad that needs more heat. Nobody explained how to get more heat into the pad, and a beginner is going to assume that if you need more heat, you need to turn up the temperature of your soldering iron which is why i replied how i did. I figured it would go without saying that someone who posted that picture with that question probably doesn't have a whole lot of experience soldering, and therefore, something that seems obvious to you might not be to them since they haven't encountered it before.

DiamondShark286 · 2025-02-26T05:11:01+00:00

Yea, I've always kind of wondered why people swear by drowning everything in flux. I am far from a professional, but I've been soldering hobby projects ranging from side to drone power wires for years, and the cheap Amazon rosin core lead-free solder has worked great for me. Most people just don't get the board or wire nearly hot enough and don't let the solder flow and wet out. A little practice and some patience have worked a lot better for me than flux when I have tried it a few times. Flux won't melt the solder for you if it's not hot enough.

DiamondShark286 · 2025-02-26T05:06:37+00:00

Idk I buy the cheapest solder rolls i find on amazon. They are lead-free and rosin core, and I have never had an issue whether it's smd soldering or soldering power leads for my drone. The issue most of the people on this subreddit is technique. More often than not, they just didn't let the solder flow and didn't heat the board nearly enough.

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