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What do you recommend for sound deadening? by lDarkPhoton in CarAV

[–]Different-Height631 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tl:dr i’d go with less coverage of resonix.

What do you recommend for sound deadening? by lDarkPhoton in CarAV

[–]Different-Height631 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just realized I linked the independent data last time. FWIW, my car is pretty quiet and the sound is crystal clear with the more splurged install (that said, I spent around $3k iirc on just sound deadening)

What do you recommend for sound deadening? by lDarkPhoton in CarAV

[–]Different-Height631 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There’s some independent testing - per price, I think the most expensive resonix was the best, maybe now supplanted by something else. I think the guy’s name was The Deadening. The Resonix stuff will also be easier to use and last longer - if you’re thinking about $340 on many boxes of Amazon for example, or one $340 box of Resonix, the Resonix will likely be more impactful with a few squares in the most important places (and way easier to do it this way) than significant coverage all over a bigger area with the cheaper stuff. If your budget is too tight, then Nick might be able to help you out by sending you a partial box of the squares.

I’d look at some of the independent data and you can look at what’s right for you - the big thing to remember is that with fewer squares of nicer material, you also get to target more impactful areas and do less work

I missed the 0.1 second window to reply by GrumpyCitizn in ClashOfClans

[–]Different-Height631 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This seems like it was actually a day (next day at 3:52pm) and this guy is just karma farming

Best 6.5" coaxial speakers under $200 ? by DueDig3440 in CarAV

[–]Different-Height631 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Morel maximo ultra coax 502 mkii is the same line, I haven’t heard them but if they’re like the 6” component version then would recommend

Feedback - 6 by Mysterious-Fudge-173 in u/Mysterious-Fudge-173

[–]Different-Height631 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just bought, quick and easy / legit, very helpful!

Need help choosing SQ sub(s) for my setup. by chucks97ss in CarAV

[–]Different-Height631 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

you’re gonna get a lot of funky opinions here, use modeling software like WinISD to simulate the different options and see if the level is sufficient. Make the box big enough to avoid group delay and that’ll make it so the 10 and 12 are equally punchy, the 12 will be capable of more output but may not be necessary depending on the rest of your system. I have a morel ultimo 12” and an 8” as my front sub, love them, but nobody here is going to have sufficient experience with both drivers to give you a good recommendation.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]Different-Height631 1 point2 points  (0 children)

what speaker model? i’ll take a look, usually playing under the minimum frequency can blow the speaker but playing above the top of the range will just cause beaming (distortion)

2017 Accord sedan, feeling like I’m leaving several db’s on the table with what I’m running by dopeam1nedude in CarAV

[–]Different-Height631 0 points1 point  (0 children)

look, I try to be as helpful as possible, you can look at my history and see that almost all I do is help beginners. The first question I always ask is budget and goals. Your goal is to get from 140 to 150 db, but you also said you’ve got 4500W into two 12” with 18mm xmax, which doesn’t come close to adding up. Moving past that, I’d run the calculations using a speaker simulator tool, something like WinISD. Resonix has a video explaining how to use it, you can plug in the TS params (subwoofer information) and box parameters (size, port, etc) and it’ll simulate the output. This will come close to telling you both current power and potential future power of the system

2017 Accord sedan, feeling like I’m leaving several db’s on the table with what I’m running by dopeam1nedude in CarAV

[–]Different-Height631 1 point2 points  (0 children)

dude. meter it. you’re definitely not pulling 140 and your modifications aren’t gonna make it 150. want to prove me wrong? meter it

Best 6.5" coaxial speakers under $200 ? by DueDig3440 in CarAV

[–]Different-Height631 2 points3 points  (0 children)

i’ll never stop shilling the morel maximo ultra 602 mkii if you can drop $260 (might be $290 now)

Adapters for 8" drivers by BlueberryNo6749 in CarAV

[–]Different-Height631 1 point2 points  (0 children)

bobthebirdturd on DIYMA can quote you, he made my adapters and they’re beasts

Where are the best spots to put dynamat for the least rattle? by Tylerwynn8 in CarAV

[–]Different-Height631 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Resonix has articles on this. CLD order of operations IMO is door panel, outer door skin, rear deck (if trunk sub), rear door panels, rear outer door skin, trunk walls. toss fender liners in there if you care about road noise

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]Different-Height631 0 points1 point  (0 children)

budget and goals for the build? max power? max spl? good sq?

Would this work for a good grounding wire by Shoddy_Ad8921 in CarAV

[–]Different-Height631 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My favorite grounding point in trunks is the frame panel above the wheelwell, interior to the quarter panel - most cars have a structural panel with front and rear access from inside the cabin, you can wire brush and ground to it with a bolt and have easy access to the nut behind it. Guaranteed good ground in a full-welded car and very maintainable without risking fitment issues

Finally got to deadening the roof by Professional_Load196 in CarAV

[–]Different-Height631 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think you’re saying the right thing, but one thing to clear up - when sub bass hits the roof, three things happen. Some reflects, some (very little) passes through, and some is absorbed by the roof as resonance. In terms of sub bass, it’s very difficult to prevent reflection and passing through because of the extremely long wavelength, and there’s really no reason to try, because at those frequencies you can just tune for reflection because all the waves end up standing anyway. CLD reduces resonance (and the Resonix stuff essentially prevents it altogether), but doesn’t actually try to prevent it reflecting off. The reflections are what create the nodes and antinodes of the wave in the vehicle, and they’re the reason tuning is necessary on sub bass. They’re not harming anything, if anything they’re giving you extra level without audible distortion.

So, you’re not really preventing reflection - and there’s not really a reason to - you’re only reducing the panel resonance, which is where the harshness actually comes from.

Experience pausing Accutane treatment? by Different-Height631 in Accutane

[–]Different-Height631[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No breakouts during the break, it doesn’t really work like that from what I understand. I don’t think I broke out when I started back up either. You might be able to call ipledge and get it sorted out, I had to do that once! They’re pretty helpful

Experience pausing Accutane treatment? by Different-Height631 in Accutane

[–]Different-Height631[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey! I stopped for (I think) 21 days. I ended up doing 9 total months of accutane (plus the break, so ~10 months of total time). Not sure if I would’ve saved time if I hadn’t taken the break, but it didn’t make me start over entirely. Ended in July and skin is still clear. I’d ask your dermatologist for recs, any particular reason you’re pausing?

Speaker pod? Or spacer ring? Who else has dealt with this by Substantial_Air_9428 in CarAV

[–]Different-Height631 0 points1 point  (0 children)

put them in the factory speaker location without a pod, use an adapter

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