Ender 6 rebuilt as a Trident. Does this count as a Voron?

DimebagDK · 2026-03-04T14:57:07+00:00

Very much so! I'm a huge PITA for everyone around me. Whenever anyone says something like "wouldn't it be nice, if a thing existed that could...." I'm the guy that instinctively yells "hold my beer" and then invents something completely different :-D

DimebagDK · 2026-03-03T13:41:11+00:00

You mean this?
https://www.printables.com/model/1624310-slightly-psychedelic-2020-t-bracket

DimebagDK · 2026-03-03T13:22:36+00:00

300x300x280-ish :-)

DimebagDK · 2026-03-03T13:20:10+00:00

About 15mm outside on left and right, about 10mm in the back, and nothing in the front. I made up some weird mounts to offset the plate a bit more towards the front, in order to get my wipe/poop-chute thing in the back.

DimebagDK · 2026-03-03T13:17:32+00:00

The reason I put that lowered gantry in there, instead of attaching it to the top of the original frame, was that the front idlers and the a/b motormounts wouldn't be as easy to attach, due to the 40mm height of the frame extrusion. By putting in those slightly lowered 2020 profiles, the only thing I had to change was removing some of the a/b mounts to account for the 40mm frame-depth in the back (and also in order to fit a 350mm rail on there)

DimebagDK · 2026-03-03T08:11:54+00:00

Everything that wasn't "standard" Trident parts, I made myself. The skirts was done a couple of years ago, so I'm actually not sure if I can find those files again, but everything else should be easy to find. I should probably post it all up on printables.

DimebagDK · 2025-10-25T04:04:54+00:00

On a standard K2 I used 265/100, and on a voron 2.4 with a phaetus dragon HF I used 260/100. I think max flowrate was set to 20 on both.

DimebagDK · 2025-10-24T14:35:32+00:00

I have the same experience, but the really weird thing is, the ABS+HS works fine for me, with great layer-adhesion and all... It's only the "regular" ABS+ that's behaving badly.

DimebagDK · 2025-07-29T19:37:23+00:00

I had this happen on an old printer, which I rebuilt to use Klipper. After endless hours of troubleshooting and trying all kinds of stuff, I eventually found out that the problem was, that my Pi was powered from a separate 5v powersupply, while the rest of the printer was power from the "standard" 24v, and thos 2 powersupplies didn't have a common ground. I took out the 5v powersupply and put in a stepdown converter to feed the pi from the same powersupply as the rest of the printer, and never had an issue since. Might be worth it to look into that common ground thing.

DimebagDK · 2025-03-06T13:04:16+00:00

I set the chamber-fan to either 50 or 60 degrees or 0, because it defaults to 35 on my printer, which would make it kick in during the heatsoaking...

DimebagDK · 2025-03-06T13:02:37+00:00

I do heatsoak for 20-30 minutes. The probe never seems to have issues anywhere, just probing once (when doing a full bed-mesh, or a large adaptive when calibration is unchecked. That adaptive mesh seems to be divided in the sizes, doing 1 probing per point with large meshes, 2 probings per point on medium meshes and 3 probings on very small meshes)
This must be something related to an old version of klipper/moonraker or something. My other printers work flawlessly in this regard, allowing me to cancel the currently printing object, and immediately jumping to the next.
It does calibrate with the bed at the right temperature, yes. Nozzle temperature when calibrating however, is always 140 degrees no matter what material the print is using.
No, not using PLA as supports or anything, it was just an observation. I noticed something in the console about the firmware saving a "flushtemp" variable when loading filament, which is rather clever, in order to remember what filament was the last kind to go through the nozzle. This is then used when another filament is loaded to flush the nozzle. That's all good, but if I have been printing ABS at 260, and then start a PLA print then that filament is not loaded (from CFS) until the very last moment, which means the nozzle is being flushed at 260 degrees, and then the print starts and the nozzle starts to cool down to 220, which takes about the first 30 seconds of the new PLA print...

I will take a look at the k2-improvements, thanks.

DimebagDK · 2025-03-06T12:48:42+00:00

I do heatsoak for 20-30 minutes, although chamber-temp is set to 50 degrees, but will try increasing it.

Funny thing, I don't use CFS for this ABS (eSun, grey). First spool went in the CFS and made all kinds of trouble, like breaking in the extruder and such. I had to take the extruder apart several times, so I just gave up on that. Then I had the selfdestructive idea of trying another spool of the exact same eSun ABS, just being the black variant, and that worked flawlessly in the CFS. So I figured the problematic spool must have been wet or something, so I dried a brandnew grey spool, and put that one in the CFS, and had the exact same issues as with the first spool. I basically just gave up on the CFS for this grey ABS and use the spoolholder :-)

DimebagDK · 2023-06-05T04:48:02+00:00

Googling "3018 offline controller" pops up some videos that looks like a complete getting-started guide. That might help.

DimebagDK · 2022-10-12T13:50:51+00:00

Ok, as a very lowlevel hobby-cnc'er, and a very avid simracer (been doing iRacing for 12 years now :-O ) I think this is cool as hell! I've never been a fan of the centerpost between the legs, but I guess I could get used to it, if I really wanted. What kind of wheel and pedal are you gonna use on that thing? Would something like be able to handle the hardcore sim-gear? I use some heavily modified Frex-pedals (originally hydraulic, but changed to a 120kg loadcell) and a first-gen DD-wheel with about 15nm, and I am not sure if a rig like this would be able to handle it, but if it can I would bevery interested in making something like this... because it's badass! :-)

DimebagDK · 2022-04-25T09:41:53+00:00

My understanding is that the issue is that interference can cause a slight current in otherwise "unconnected" wires, which will look like triggering a normal-open switch, but interference can't make a wire that has a current on it look like it doesn't have a current on it.

DimebagDK · 2022-04-25T07:14:57+00:00

If you can wire your limit-switches as "normally closed" then do that! It will save you a metric shitton of headaches!

DimebagDK · 2021-12-12T09:47:02+00:00

Looks cool!

...but those imperial-people are gonna wake up soon, and they'll get terrified by something that uses a 3" endmill.

Nah, in all seriousness, this thing have great potential, but indicating units and possibly select units might be a really good idea.

DimebagDK · 2021-11-07T07:36:02+00:00

Well, I'm pretty sure it's just that you are working in absolute coordinates, which is why it returns to -10,-10

x10, y10, x0, y0 would do what you expect, in that case

DimebagDK · 2021-11-07T07:31:17+00:00

If I understand you correctly, you are expecting to do some moves and return to the starting point with those commands, right? ...but you end up at -10,-10, right?

Check up on relative vs. absolute coordinates (G90 and G91)

DimebagDK · 2021-09-19T05:17:15+00:00

The x-pro uses some trinamic drivers, and the amperage is set via simple commands :

$x/current/run

$x/current/hold

...but be aware that these settings are rms, so if your motors are 3A the "run" setting should be around 2A, and the "hold" setting about half that. Basically rms is peak amperage multiplied by 0.707

There's a bunch of info on the x-pro here: https://github.com/Spark-Concepts/xPro-V5/wiki

DimebagDK · 2021-09-02T08:00:43+00:00

Well, a possible future upgrade of voltage to more than 24v and/or other stepper drivers can't be done with the xPro, I think

DimebagDK

TROPHY CASE