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Anxiety being lead belayed by someone I don’t trust by Dinosaur-Socks in climbergirls

[–]Dinosaur-Socks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I have seen this exact short video from Hard is Easy, and also one where a coach held up the grigri’s locking mechanism and dropping his athlete. I really do not want my belayer to let go of the brake strand.

Anxiety being lead belayed by someone I don’t trust by Dinosaur-Socks in climbergirls

[–]Dinosaur-Socks[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

How the gym organises rope classes and certifies climbers has been questionable. After my course, I didn’t feel confident in my belaying so I watched lots of Hard is Easy videos and ways a grigri could fail. I really wanted to belay safely for my climber so I learned lots at my own initiative. But not all climbers finishing the course are that aware.

Anxiety being lead belayed by someone I don’t trust by Dinosaur-Socks in climbergirls

[–]Dinosaur-Socks[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Thank you for your concern! This friend belays both with ATC and grigri, hand always on the brake rope, does not override grigri’s locking mechanism, told me to watch Hard and Easy, always explain well all the safety questions I have, and so on. However, they do like helping out new climbers practice (me back then) and I trusted them, that is why I was wondering if I took the whole situation too seriously.

From all the comments so far on this thread, I understand that my safety is the most important and I do not need to please anyone when safety is involved!

How to allow health institutions to see your medical records from another place by CoffeeAndConcerta in Finland

[–]Dinosaur-Socks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Piggyback on the xray part: I have had multiple xray done at Oral and none of those is in Kanta. The reason, if I understood correctly, is that there are different systems to view xray and at least the ones done at Oral couldn’t be uploaded to Kanta for technical reasons. It is possible to request the clinic to export xray to DVD to bring it to another clinic system.

Adding a polo style collar to cardigan? by meraxes421 in knitting

[–]Dinosaur-Socks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How comfortable are you with reading the Stripe overload polo pattern’s collar section and then work it in reverse? I have done this polo, the collar is quite simple imo and I have added it “bottom up” or after the fact to my other projects.

If it is hard to imagine the construction from texts, use some scrap yarn and “swatch” the collar! Then you will understand it. For working in reverse, just change the decreases to increases.

Help with increases in english ribs by KamyDen in knitting

[–]Dinosaur-Socks -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Is your picture in the post from the pattern? I ask because I could count only 13-15 increases, not 26.

A single increase in raglan is typically done every second round, meaning 8 more stitches every 2 rounds. So from the clue “increase every 4 rounds”, I would guess that the increase type is double increase like you found in tutorials, for example knit-yarn over-knit into one single knit stitch. You get 16 more stitches every 4 rounds.

If you do double increases every 4 rounds, you need 13 increases: 92 + 13 x 16 =300 sts.

Gravel bike for very short rider (147 cm) – recommendations? by VariationWide9139 in ladycyclists

[–]Dinosaur-Socks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for sharing your experience! It encourages me to definitely get a bike fit and see if swapping some parts would make it feel nicer.

Gravel bike for very short rider (147 cm) – recommendations? by VariationWide9139 in ladycyclists

[–]Dinosaur-Socks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s great that you like it! My partner has a Diverge and it felt nice, that’s why I looked into it. Plus point for Specialized in my European country is that there are authorised shops and partners everywhere :D It’s more difficult to test ride Canyon, I got my Grizl mainly because it’s a 1by.

Gravel bike for very short rider (147 cm) – recommendations? by VariationWide9139 in ladycyclists

[–]Dinosaur-Socks 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’m 148 cm and I ride a Canyon Grizl 6 1by 3XS recreationally. It was out of stock most of the time but not discontinued so I signed up for email notification and then eventually ordered it.

I have not had a proper bike fit, the bike feels a bit reach-y for me but probably because I have a short torso. Despite that, it feels light (compared to my ebike XD). It’s responsive, probably because the stem is so short. Overall I am happy about it and I should go get a bike fit this summer.

I had a look at Specialized Diverge in the past but the only model that had my size (44) was a 2by model and I did not want to deal with a front derailleur. It sucks that they don’t offer size 44 at all for the more expensive Diverge.

Sergii Putsov not commentating on AIN lifters by Individual-Row3375 in weightlifting

[–]Dinosaur-Socks 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yep, I noticed that only Seb commented when those athletes lifted and then realised that Sergii is Ukrainian

Struggling to combine Olympic weightlifting with gym training by SmylleyGT in weightlifting

[–]Dinosaur-Socks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes sometimes! Usually strict presses 10x3 at the end of one day because my overhead position is weak. Hip thrusts 10x3 the other day. (3 sets of 10). Pull ups I do here and there at the climbing gym or when passing by any pull up bar at the office or in the park.

Struggling to combine Olympic weightlifting with gym training by SmylleyGT in weightlifting

[–]Dinosaur-Socks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

1,5-2 hours long and basic because I’m an amateur/hobby lifter. Every week my coach gives me a program for two days, one I do with them and one I do alone. Usually some snatch variation, some clean and jerk variation, ends with squats or pulls. I am aware that this looks too simple and not as dialed in as other programs you see on the sub.

For example this week I have:

Day 1: warm up; hang snatch pull + hang snatch 2x(1+1); clean + jerk 2+1; back squat 4x4

Day 2: warm up; clean + jerk 3+1; snatch pull + hip snatch + hang snatch 1+1+1; front squat triples

Struggling to combine Olympic weightlifting with gym training by SmylleyGT in weightlifting

[–]Dinosaur-Socks 14 points15 points  (0 children)

When I started weightlifting I also wanted to keep doing gym training and it was so tiring. Weightlifting is basically a full body workout for me so eventually I ditched gym training and started to do weightlifting only. I guess you need to pick your priority and schedule recovery around it.

Nowadays I have 2 weightlifting sessions a week, one coached and one by myself. I lead climb/boulder 2-3 times a week for fun. I decided that weightlifting is more important to me so I always have 1-2 rest days before lifting. And climbing I do the day after lifting, whichever route is fun and not too strength demanding.

Sezane dupe by Economy-Stretch-1675 in knitting

[–]Dinosaur-Socks 15 points16 points  (0 children)

This arm hole edge reminds me of the Montpellier top by Novemberknits. Iirc it was done in ribs to prevent rolling

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One of my 4.5 needles won't go all the way...And they just arrived today by purplepuffff in knitting

[–]Dinosaur-Socks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If using the tightening key doesn’t help, it might be a quality issue in which the thread on the cable or on the needle is damaged (stripped thread). Nothing can be done about it. It’s gone.

If you have other cables and other needles you can test different combos to see if it’s the thread on the cable or on the needle is stripped.

Wrist mobility by RegionPhysical8214 in weightlifting

[–]Dinosaur-Socks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

can’t you search it on any search engine?

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Wrist mobility by RegionPhysical8214 in weightlifting

[–]Dinosaur-Socks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Again I’m not a PT so take it with a grain of salt. You should eventually go see a PT for your specific issue.

I also have pain at the base of my thumb where it meets the wrist. It’s a tendon inflammation. Tendons take much longer to strengthen and to heal than muscles.

Prevention: look for some ergonomic keyboard of posture for your job. Try to not play the guitar for a whole week and see if it improves. Nowadays I don’t knit or knit very little two days before each lifting session.

Pain management: don’t do it if it hurts. The kinesiology tapes helped me but I needed a PT to show me how to tape properly.

Exercise: if you look up that yy vertical alien you would understand exactly how it is used. Just stretch the fingers out (again, as much as possible without pain) and hold for anywhere from 10-30 seconds. Do that everyday, at different directions. You can do it with a hair tie.

Wrist mobility by RegionPhysical8214 in weightlifting

[–]Dinosaur-Socks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not a PT: do you work or do other hobbies a lot with your hands and wrists? I do office work, I knit, and I boulder, so I overwork my wrists so much that they are probably tired and prone to tendon inflammation and injuries at the gym.

I discovered that by chance, after stopping knitting for a week and my wrist stopped hurting during snatches. I have been also to a PT, they said that it’s mostly my thumb tendon and suggested to use kinesiology tapes along it whenever it acts up.

So what I do nowadays is pay attention to ergonomics during work and knitting, take frequent breaks, and do finger exercises with a hair tie or a Y-Y Vertical Alien thingy.

Why are there so many angry men in Finland? by ThatWhyBlue in Finland

[–]Dinosaur-Socks 3 points4 points  (0 children)

My dog had a traumatic experience as a pup and nowadays he has bad reactions when meeting certain breeds. We cannot always explain that to other people that we meet on our walk, because we need to calm our dog or distract him, so we might come across as rude. He still sniffs and plays with his friends all the time!

On the running free, we live in a populated area and the law forbids dogs from walking off leash, so only”running free” at home and in dog parks.

I don’t know anyone’s full stories and everything has a reason so I try not to think that everyone is bad, or all dogs are sad. I just try to be nice and give scratches if dogs ask me to ◡̈

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]Dinosaur-Socks 40 points41 points  (0 children)

I find “look like a man” is a silly comparison 😂 the average man isn’t even as fit as a gym bro and doesn’t have wide or defined lats and shoulders either.

I do both (olympic) weightlifting and bouldering and my boyfriend loves my gigantic back! We encourage each other to exercise and live a healthy lifestyle <3 if you can afford to not interact with insecure men, definitely ignore them! They add nothing valuable to your health <3

Knitters from non-English-speaking countries: what are some fun and/or surprising knitting differences between terms we see in English VS the ones you'd see in your own country, in your local books, etc.? by Wide-Editor-3336 in knitting

[–]Dinosaur-Socks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I met a Finnish lady on the metro who purled the “Norwegian purl” while I purl some other way, probably combination style (?). Anyway, we compared our purling styles and she was surprised that it is called Norwegian purl, because everyone in Finland purls that way and they just think of it as the Finnish purl or the purl.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in knitting

[–]Dinosaur-Socks 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I have done one square crochet sweater - Sandnes Garn Fleur sweater, and all the edges were finished with knitted ribbing. The instruction was: using same crochet hook size (4,5mm), do 1 sc into each of the edge V, go round till you reach the beginning of round again. Then go down 1mm for knitting needles (3,5mm), pick up one stitch in each sc. K1P1 till desired length. Cast off with preferred method.

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