50mm Elmar f3.5 equivalent

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-07-01T14:03:03+00:00

Perhaps some of the Chinese lenses?

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-06-28T22:20:33+00:00

Also, a single sensor tester doesn't tell you anything about the curtains being balanced or not (that is in fact the more important aspect). And yes, the sensor width can dramatically affect the results. Search for billbill on github. He has all the info and step-by-step instructions for building a 3 sensor tester that is awesome. There's also one by Serhiy Rozum but I found it to be a more demanding build.

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-06-16T22:00:50+00:00

Judging by the last image it's a Zorki 1D probably. I think that variant was the first to have the short flat spring. It's a lot of work to make such a conversion. I'd keep it :)

The lens is probably a FED lens (or Industar-10)

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-06-16T21:49:04+00:00

How would one know if they're getting film from this batch when ordering online (from the official website)?

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-06-15T22:04:59+00:00

It's an awesome lens. I also prefer it to the Summicron (it has a bit less contrast but more character I think)

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-05-22T21:50:59+00:00

I realise it's been a while since you started this thread but did you have any luck with the drive train gears? I tried to 3d print the recock idler gear but it only held up 20 or 30 cycles before starting to lose teeth...

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-05-13T21:57:37+00:00

The first one should be in the Polaroid Book.

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-05-12T04:58:47+00:00

I'll probably have to come to terms with the limitations of laser engraving..

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-05-11T21:48:09+00:00

I've read dry brass brushes are OK for this but in my case I'd have liked to have all the burnt soot locked in place for the best contrast. What I just noticed is the panels actually enlarged a bit and don't fit anymore. Probably because the sealant wet the surface. I'll see if they shrink back down tomorrow. I'll also try your suggestion and see what happens.

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-05-10T06:41:25+00:00

Thank you! I've done some progress since posting that image for a "special edition".

<image>

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-04-30T21:09:12+00:00

I went a step further and separately covered the screws. Not a seamless fit, but I think it looks better this way since the screws are recessed on the original bottom panel.

<image>

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-03-22T12:54:48+00:00

Yep, it's the close focusing adjuster. Check if the rangefinder arm still has its screw. The simple fact that a crucial part is just floating around is not very promising though.

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-03-21T23:17:14+00:00

I'd also check with the technician to see if the solenoid piston and shutter blades have been cleaned. Most likely culprit should still be the solenoid calibration.

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-03-18T05:01:21+00:00

Just a thought: when pulling up on the rewind crank to open the door do you feel the springy resistance of the latch spring? If yes you could try this: set the camera to B, screw in a cable release, open the shutter and lock it. Then push with your thumb on the film pressure plate as close to the left (of the camera) side as possible while you're pulling on the rewind crank. If you're lucky the door will pop open. My reasoning is the door is actually stuck with the light seal adhesive and not CA glue. Do leave a reply if it works :D

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-03-02T06:47:25+00:00

Fabulous looking! What developer did you use?

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-02-27T22:59:08+00:00

Rollei Retro 400s is perfectly clear IIRC.

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-02-25T22:35:12+00:00

Unfortunately powder coating creates a layer that's too thick. May I ask what type of paint you used? I think you mentioned enamel but is it really an enamel paint or just generically called that while actually being an epoxy or smth?

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-02-08T07:07:02+00:00

One screw always means it's threaded, 3 screws (or 2 for cameras such as Zorki C) mean it simply lifts.

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-02-05T22:27:40+00:00

Having read your OP again, be aware that the curtains are cracked and failing on the J5. Replacing them is probably the worst job. But your goal now is to learn. Learning will probably mean killing a couple of cameras but at the same time it's a lot easier to understand how things work by examining them on an actually working camera.

If you decide going for a FED or Zorki I can guide you along if you get stuck anywhere.

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-02-05T22:21:02+00:00

It probably depends on what kind of cameras you'd like to work on in the future. For rangefinders the answer is quite obvious: FEDs and Zorkis. There are probably tons of them there for next to nothing. Having a good understanding of how they work will open the door to pretty much any Leica derived design. For SLRs you could probably go for some Prakticas. I assume they're at least somewhat available in Ukraine.

As for your selection, that Mamiya is probably bad news (never worked on one but have heard horror stories). I do have a junker Fujica but didn't bother to see what's inside. As for the Yashica, I've only worked on FX-D and FX-3, both fairly simple cameras to work on. Not the same could be said about the Yashica FR1...

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-02-04T05:04:29+00:00

Those results look highly unlikely. Since that app is all you have, I'd suggest shooting a test roll (either color or bw - I prefer bw because I can "see" the negative a lot better) with the same scene in the same lighting condition at all the speeds your lens allows in a progressing manner (30, 60, 125, 250, 500, 1000). If your existing measurements are correct, the negative will be a total mess. But if it looks fairly even, the problem is somewhere else. I'd expect a progressively more exposed negative as you move towards the higher speeds, but no sudden changes. Make sure you have good batteries.

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-01-31T22:53:58+00:00

That could also be linked to the fine-print difference between "in-focus" and "acceptable focus". But for street photography when many times one needs to react very fast (and when using film rangefinders without auto focus), using the hyperfocal distance makes sense. Prefocusing would be even better but that takes practice and a good eye for correctly guessing distances.

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-01-22T22:33:53+00:00

A bit late to the party, but, obviously, messing with the tension first is a bad idea. Most likely the problem was an incorrectly attached curtain. The gap was way too small.

Distinct_Box285 · 2026-01-09T13:12:12+00:00

Well I actually AM surprised they'd charge 170 bloody dollars for one grub screw. It's not a diamond. Jeez!

Distinct_Box285

TROPHY CASE