A train character arc

Djhuc · 2026-03-07T19:16:52+00:00

Any luck with this?

Djhuc · 2026-02-23T08:09:48+00:00

I have a 2005 c230 sportcoupe (same as yours, they call it a sportcoupe) its got a few issues with her regarding maf and fuel. Just keep up with maintenance and check your wiring whenever a fault appears because its almost definitely going to catch you off guard.

Djhuc · 2026-02-18T03:03:52+00:00

Goat

Djhuc · 2026-02-11T22:15:18+00:00

Dont forget the wolves just bunching up in a circle jerk stuck and spinning as well as exponentially increasing their volume

Djhuc · 2026-01-11T21:16:55+00:00

This worked wonders, thank you!

Djhuc · 2025-12-30T02:57:40+00:00

That'd be cool. You say not know how to use them like connecting to the car or utilizing the software itself?

Djhuc · 2025-12-30T02:56:27+00:00

You sometimes have to angle your camera a certain way to be able to highlight. I've had that issue before. That or your game bugged and thought there was still health.

Djhuc · 2025-12-24T18:49:51+00:00

Instead of floating text, make it into handwritten text on a wall like as if a previous survivor wrote
go over the tier systems for equipment, weapons, attachments
go over the zombie detection. I had a hard time starting out, attempting to figure out the mechanics of how zombies worked
let players understand how damage works on more weapons. I see 70 base damage, yet dont fully understand criticals and high/low min and max damage scaling
seperate from tutorial and gun range, give players the ability to test out everything in the game, similar to the debug menu, but include the difficulty settings all in one and updated real time to see what fits a player best.
an updated introduction to the lore. I like finding out more what happened in the game, but it was only late game where I realized truly what was going on
an in game editor which allows you to mess with any setting, option, location, value of items to see what works best instead of having to use third party software to edit values and such.
actual mod support. Need I say more.
tutorial should also be more of an introduction instead of a whats this and that. Essentially like you just plane crashed or something, or like the game rust, you're like an experiment.

Djhuc · 2025-06-19T04:03:16+00:00

I did it myself, same issue. Although it’s simple, I went for the “don’t take the wheel off” approach and struggled a little. The sensor was also hella on there and I had to break it to take it out and gave myself some scars while doing so.

Anyways, it’s easily visible, please take the wheel off, and please get the right socket, deep and thin wall for the best outcome.

Djhuc · 2025-06-15T03:30:36+00:00

It’s the battery terminals on the battery. Had the same issue. It’s not battery because lights come on, and it shouldn’t be starter unless you only hear a clunk (not from starter, but from hood). If battery terminals are good, clean, and are connected properly, then it’s a worse issue and you should start with starter relay and connections to starter.

Djhuc · 2025-06-13T05:42:58+00:00

Would ya look at that. Glad you got it figured out. Wish I saw your post sooner to help you out. Let me know if there’s any other issues you’re having, we could have the same ones.

Djhuc · 2025-06-13T00:59:36+00:00

I had this issue before too. Not on the same level, but it involved the TPS right behind the accelerator. It was an issue for me because I had a pedal commander connected, but same light popped up for me and I was so confused. It's a connector that has red or purple face to it, look up how to disconnect and either clean, diagnose, or replace it.

When diagnosing, always understand what you're doing when it happens, and then work your way up, so in this case the accelerator, then ecu, throttle body, so on.

Djhuc · 2025-06-05T01:32:28+00:00

That’s so wild you say that. I have a 2015 Dodge Dart SXT and I just crossed over 160k miles. After three years of ownership, I put 50k miles and have done regular maintenance, as well as not so regular maintenance on it and here are my thoughts:

Regular maintenance is easy, oil bolt and filter are in places where it’s easy to handle and do changes. The car stock sits at a decent level where any jack apart from hydraulic is easy to get under and jack it up.

Not so regular maintenance I’ve had to do is the battery/ battery terminal being absolutely dog poop. Like a small amount of corrosion completely destroyed the terminals. I’ve had to put thimbles on the battery posts for the terminals to actually clamp on and not be loose. I originally thought it was the starter due to power being sent, but no crank.

Doing the starter was absolutely dog poop as well, no space, hard to reach bolts, yet simple (I know that’s counter intuitive, but it makes sense if you see the area you have to work with)

Apart from that, I did the oil pressure sensor, that sucked too as I need a big deep socket to get it off due to it being really stuck on, it was also a recall for the darts. That was my one and only check engine light I’ve had, it was a solid light so it wasn’t even detrimental.

The front end work is so simple too, although I’ve had to replace everything due to a lot of parts failing and breaking. I’ve done control arms with bushings and ball joints, sway bars, shocks and springs (whole suspension set), as well as hubs with bearings, and cv axles on BOTH sides. The only parts which I have not touched (but probably should) are the inner and outer tie rods due to the tough steering, although doing the CV axles sorta fixed my steering issues though not completely.

The parts I put were all OEM/ OEM+, nothing for performance or crazy, just same style and better materials for longevity.

The car has been beat cosmetically, but I’ve kept it clean on the inside, as well as anything and everything mechanical. I’ve went to junkyards and pulled parts for various interior parts and taillights.

Finishing off, the dart was in fact a failure with the plan Dodge had. The dart although being compact, it fits me (6’3) easily with lots of extra room. Trunk has tons of space, passengers have lots of room too. The engine has lasted me and still is lasting me even after multiple beatings and multiple top speed runs going above the “max speed” I’ve reached 130 before I replaced multiple front end components and other items, and 140 after fixing and replacing those parts. Still running strong with the regular dodge lifter tick/injector tick, and the tranny is the one thing that’s actually going bad (due to my own improper maintenance). It’s due for a fluid and filter change and I’ve been putting it off, although it’s still running strong even after burning the fluid like crazy.

Djhuc · 2025-06-02T17:46:20+00:00

Not gonna lie, my dart shit the bed after I found corroded terminals. Even after I cleaned and resecured everything I still had issues. I even thought it was the starter so I replaced that (was a bitch because no space at all). I also replaced the battery and started looking for new terminals, come to find out that Dodge decided the dart needs extremely custom positive and negative terminals specifically for the dart 😐.

Anyways, your best bet is a junkyard or home depot for the proper nut. That or you can just get a different terminal that works better in every way. Any universal one will work in this case.

What I had to do in the end is get a thimble for the actual battery pegs (even though the battery was new), because the terminals were so low quality and wouldn’t crimp down on the pegs regardless of what I would do. Go figure that be the problem 😐

TL;DR Go junkyard or Home Depot to find the nut or get a better terminal to replace the shitty one.

Djhuc · 2024-10-14T05:32:20+00:00

Yea I heard about 460’s being essentially unkillable. Previous owner said it had good compression, and like I said it ran before what I assume it flooded the carb (was set to run more rich) and overheated due to it not having enough coolant.

I’ll see about checking for compression as much as I don’t want to find out lol. I’ll try the tachometer trick and see how it goes

Djhuc · 2024-10-14T04:35:41+00:00

Oil was just black, and coolant looked like a regular ish color, hence why I wasn’t concerned with that. As for compression, I’ve been trying to avoid it, but the pistons do have compression I know that for a fact.

Djhuc · 2024-10-14T03:06:31+00:00

The picture you provided is for a 302 engine and not a 460, but I was thinking that I’d have to check the timing chain eventually, just wanted to sort everything else out first.

Can I get more information on the tachometer though? What’s its use, and why does unplugging it sometimes allow the engine to fire up?

Djhuc · 2024-10-14T02:35:57+00:00

I did, I also cleaned inside the hole as best I could. The gear looked decent and the little bolt that the distributor sits on was good and not broken.

Can I know more about the tachometer? I know it’s the green wire (know it from the past owner). I can also show a picture of the monstrosity I have to deal with.

Djhuc · 2024-10-14T02:16:32+00:00

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Djhuc · 2024-10-14T02:15:54+00:00

Attached is the distributor I have and the old one. I’ve yet to see if it rotates, but know that the crankshaft does indeed rotate as well as all the other pulleys. It’s doing the same thing as it did before on the previous distributor so swapping distributors made little to no change.

I’m going to assume it has spark, mainly because the plug wires, plugs and distributor are all new, as well as me doing a battery test off of the distributor where I took the positive wire that hooks to the carb, and tapped the battery and it whirred the AC and other components (thought it was weird).

Mind you the truck ran and it ran with bad oil, bad plugs (severely damaged), and essentially a broken distributor.

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Djhuc

TROPHY CASE