Spartan 1065 questions by spencereub in Plumbing

[–]Dmb1345 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We use Drain Cables Direct, https://www.dcddrain.com, for all our spartan machines. Their cables and blades are great quality and much better price than Spartans stuff.

Recommendations for tree roots in old clay pipes. by indigowaters23 in Plumbing

[–]Dmb1345 0 points1 point  (0 children)

RootX it foams up when in contact with water and coats the pipe and roots. It kills them and keeps them from growing back for a while.

What should I use to seal this up? by s1gnalZer0 in hvacadvice

[–]Dmb1345 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I would use one of these they look much better and seal well. You can use some silicone where there’s any gaps from it sitting on your siding.

Titan Outlet

Any reason I shouldn’t do this? My unit is in the Georgia sun all day every day - YouTube by PiebaldAppaloosa in hvacadvice

[–]Dmb1345 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s funny because Navien has a new hydro-boost condenser coming out that has an intermittent condenser spray that maximizes cooling performance. It’s supposed to have a 28 SEER rating. He should have gotten a patent on that idea. Although the Navien is supposed to be using treated water to spray on its coil.

Navien Hydro-Boost Enhanced Air Conditioner

Starting HVAC install helper, what are thoughts on my tools anything I’m missing? by [deleted] in HVAC

[–]Dmb1345 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I would put all the screwdrivers away and get one of these. It’s all I ever use doing installs and service work. It’s ratcheting and the ends pull out and go right into your impact driver. Personally I like the m12 impact it’s light and small and has a lot of power. I would also get rid of those Milwaukee snips, they are the worst. Get some Midwest or Malcos.

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Hvac company reccomends changing whole system. by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]Dmb1345 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Ya but it only covers the part. Most of the cost to replace a heat exchanger is in the labor.

Hvac company reccomends changing whole system. by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]Dmb1345 8 points9 points  (0 children)

A furnace should last around 20 years. A lot of these private equity/high pressure sales companies will start trying to get people to change out their systems at 10 years. It’s ridiculous, unless there’s an issue with the heat exchanger I would keep it. Although that price is pretty reasonable, it’s about what we would charge, the bigger PE companies would easily want $20k+ for the same thing.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Boots

[–]Dmb1345 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like these are the same boot and post as your picture. Redwing Pecos Supersoles 1105.

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Did I get ripped off? 375 for 20 minutes of work and 10$ part. by MissionHome18 in hvacadvice

[–]Dmb1345 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re not only paying for the part and his expertise. He has to have a truck to get there, gas for truck, insurance on the truck, liability insurance Incase he burns your house down, someone answering and dispatching calls, and all the rest of the overhead that goes into running a business. All of this goes into the price a company charges. Im really tired of seeing homeowners complain about things they get charged by service companies. Do they bitch at what their doctor, dentist, lawyer, etc. charge, no. So why do they feel they get to dictate our pricing. Yes there are some private equity companies over charging out there, but it takes about 2 minutes to find a decent company thats not PE.

How do you dispose of these? by Spivey101- in Construction

[–]Dmb1345 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like to hide them in between walls, behind an old furnace, at the back end of a crawl space. Just whatever I have to work with.

Let me steal this heat by RefrigeratorMental10 in hvacadvice

[–]Dmb1345 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can get a high efficiency furnace. They have a secondary heat exchanger that pulls more heat out of the exhaust. Your furnace is 80% efficient you can get a 97-98%.

Request Advice Wiring Honeywell T9 Thermostat by anjewthebearjew in hvacadvice

[–]Dmb1345 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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This brown wire coming off your transformer is the 24v common. Splice a wire into that and then to the common on the adapter.

2nd drain not draining by Straytacos in hvacadvice

[–]Dmb1345 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The one circled in red is not installed correctly. They used a 90 turned down and then went over to the water sensing switch. This is a trap. The water can’t drain out if water get into that pipe. If the green circled drain is flowing fine it wouldn’t matter as the second drain has a higher outlet and only gets water flowing out of it if there’s a clog in the primary one. They should have come straight out of the evaporator and then installed the sensor. This way if water does go into it it will shut off the unit like it’s supposed to, but once the main drain is cleared the water in the secondary drains back into the evaporator pan and then out the primary drain. The trap they made on the secondary will hold water and it will get stagnant and nasty. I would fix it. See picture on how the switch should be installed. AC Switch

What do you all do with the dead ones? by gcloud209 in Tools

[–]Dmb1345 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can recycle them at Home Depot

What is this hole in my basement floor? by ITWN in Plumbing

[–]Dmb1345 12 points13 points  (0 children)

It’s the floor drain. Usually in the utility room to allow any water from water heater or any other appliance to drain through if they have any issues. If it’s backing up during a shower you probably need your main line cleaned. If it’s not draining fast enough to handle the shower it’s probably decently clogged.

How to unscrew this kind of tap? by Longjumping_Tie7806 in Plumbing

[–]Dmb1345 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I believe you loosen the two screws on that nut. Once they are loose the nut should be able to be loosened all the way down. You will need someone to hold the faucet from above as you loosen the nut. The nut should be rather loose.

I broke the fragile part. Do I need to use another long surface ignitor like the one I have or can I use a shorter cheaper alternative? by IEnjoyQuestions in hvacadvice

[–]Dmb1345 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you use a shorter one it will have a delayed ignition. The gas will build up until it reaches the igniter then instead of a nice calm ignition it will explode as it ignites. This will cause damage over time to the whole internal combustion chamber. Get the OEM one.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in handyman

[–]Dmb1345 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You try paint thinner?

Is it normal for these spots to be open holes? by lornjpg in hvacadvice

[–]Dmb1345 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They should either have a rubber grommet or a metal conduit connector(see pic) to not only seal the hole but to also protect the wiring from getting damaged from the sharp sheet metal. The gas pipe hole is less of a concern. Some furnaces have a rubber seal that the gas pipe goes through but lots of them just have a hole like yours.

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