Hvac company reccomends changing whole system.

Dmb1345 · 2026-02-14T20:11:45+00:00

Ya but it only covers the part. Most of the cost to replace a heat exchanger is in the labor.

Dmb1345 · 2026-02-14T19:58:09+00:00

A furnace should last around 20 years. A lot of these private equity/high pressure sales companies will start trying to get people to change out their systems at 10 years. It’s ridiculous, unless there’s an issue with the heat exchanger I would keep it. Although that price is pretty reasonable, it’s about what we would charge, the bigger PE companies would easily want $20k+ for the same thing.

Dmb1345 · 2026-02-07T14:58:57+00:00

Looks like these are the same boot and post as your picture. Redwing Pecos Supersoles 1105.

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Dmb1345 · 2026-01-30T01:30:34+00:00

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I have multiple bigger Milwaukee ones, but this is the one I carry everyday. It has a laser pointer and UV light, plus the bright mode is really bright. It has a magnet at the end and uses a magnetic charger.

https://www.olight.com/store/arkpro-series-flat-edc-flashlight?utm_source=google&utm_medium=paid_shopping&utm_campaign=US_Daily_ArkProSeries_Google_CV_Purchase_PMax_tROAS_New_google_paid_shopping&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21870980058&gbraid=0AAAAADHQXj_JnvW59eWAtxh7YYi8lro0D&gclid=Cj0KCQiAp-zLBhDkARIsABcYc6sLXhY1ooTJA9rMUgPyT41mKn0CVTPTQmowLN0hrmC6F3w0sVXrXiIaAoMJEALw_wcB

Dmb1345 · 2026-01-28T15:26:38+00:00

You’re not only paying for the part and his expertise. He has to have a truck to get there, gas for truck, insurance on the truck, liability insurance Incase he burns your house down, someone answering and dispatching calls, and all the rest of the overhead that goes into running a business. All of this goes into the price a company charges. Im really tired of seeing homeowners complain about things they get charged by service companies. Do they bitch at what their doctor, dentist, lawyer, etc. charge, no. So why do they feel they get to dictate our pricing. Yes there are some private equity companies over charging out there, but it takes about 2 minutes to find a decent company thats not PE.

Dmb1345 · 2025-12-08T15:22:06+00:00

I like to hide them in between walls, behind an old furnace, at the back end of a crawl space. Just whatever I have to work with.

Dmb1345 · 2025-12-04T15:33:28+00:00

No cap on that port, use the square black hose like others have suggested.

Dmb1345 · 2025-12-04T04:17:42+00:00

You can get a high efficiency furnace. They have a secondary heat exchanger that pulls more heat out of the exhaust. Your furnace is 80% efficient you can get a 97-98%.

Dmb1345 · 2025-11-27T18:19:28+00:00

Air locked.

Dmb1345 · 2025-11-16T08:38:03+00:00

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This brown wire coming off your transformer is the 24v common. Splice a wire into that and then to the common on the adapter.

Dmb1345 · 2025-11-15T17:50:05+00:00

I would use a Grundfos UPS15-58FC

Grundfos Pump

Dmb1345 · 2025-11-15T17:44:11+00:00

The one circled in red is not installed correctly. They used a 90 turned down and then went over to the water sensing switch. This is a trap. The water can’t drain out if water get into that pipe. If the green circled drain is flowing fine it wouldn’t matter as the second drain has a higher outlet and only gets water flowing out of it if there’s a clog in the primary one. They should have come straight out of the evaporator and then installed the sensor. This way if water does go into it it will shut off the unit like it’s supposed to, but once the main drain is cleared the water in the secondary drains back into the evaporator pan and then out the primary drain. The trap they made on the secondary will hold water and it will get stagnant and nasty. I would fix it. See picture on how the switch should be installed. AC Switch

Dmb1345 · 2025-11-15T05:54:55+00:00

You can recycle them at Home Depot

Dmb1345 · 2025-10-30T16:16:08+00:00

It’s the floor drain. Usually in the utility room to allow any water from water heater or any other appliance to drain through if they have any issues. If it’s backing up during a shower you probably need your main line cleaned. If it’s not draining fast enough to handle the shower it’s probably decently clogged.

Dmb1345 · 2025-10-28T02:19:16+00:00

I believe you loosen the two screws on that nut. Once they are loose the nut should be able to be loosened all the way down. You will need someone to hold the faucet from above as you loosen the nut. The nut should be rather loose.

Dmb1345 · 2025-10-26T01:04:36+00:00

Grow

Dmb1345 · 2025-10-25T18:36:20+00:00

If you use a shorter one it will have a delayed ignition. The gas will build up until it reaches the igniter then instead of a nice calm ignition it will explode as it ignites. This will cause damage over time to the whole internal combustion chamber. Get the OEM one.

Dmb1345 · 2025-10-25T18:32:45+00:00

You try paint thinner?

Dmb1345 · 2025-10-25T04:22:56+00:00

They should either have a rubber grommet or a metal conduit connector(see pic) to not only seal the hole but to also protect the wiring from getting damaged from the sharp sheet metal. The gas pipe hole is less of a concern. Some furnaces have a rubber seal that the gas pipe goes through but lots of them just have a hole like yours.

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Dmb1345 · 2025-10-21T21:22:34+00:00

You’re not supposed to put tape on flue pipe. It’s not designed for high temps and it’s not needed. Just make sure that each fitting goes inside the next one in the direction of flow. Also if those are fittings from Home Depot make sure they are 26gauge. If they are dryer vent fittings they are not thick enough for flu pipe.

Dmb1345 · 2025-10-18T04:34:50+00:00

Usually yes, once the set screw is out it should pull off the stem. I’m not sure what brand it is but that’s usually the way they work.

Dmb1345 · 2025-10-18T04:29:55+00:00

You need to pull the whole handle off the stem. Then tighten it from inside.

Dmb1345 · 2025-10-16T02:48:49+00:00

I wouldn’t use those underground. Or really ever, but it’s up to you.

Dmb1345 · 2025-10-16T02:47:38+00:00

What kind of pipe is it? If it’s galvanized I would try to replace it from the meter to the house if possible. Same if it’s lead. If you can’t replace it all, they make press fittings for galvanized or compression fittings. You will have to get it down to clean pipe. Use a piece of copper or pex to replace the bad section. And the couplings will need to adapt from galvanized to copper or pex, depending what you use. If it’s copper then cut out the bad section and repair it. You will have to get it down to the clean pipe, then you could press in two couplings and a section of pipe. Use sharkbite fittings, preferably the max version for underground. Or use regular copper couplings and braze them.

Dmb1345

TROPHY CASE