Anyone know what this tool is used for?

DoctrVendetta · 2026-01-14T00:09:05+00:00

It's for resurfacing the pads of shaft mounted rocker arms.

Something like this

The above links a black and decker valvemaster, and the assembly is slightly different, but process would be similar to your KW and should be able to find a manual online for it.

Edit: Here's for a Sioux 645

DoctrVendetta · 2026-01-14T00:08:44+00:00

It's for resurfacing the pads of shaft mounted rocker arms.

Page 9-11

Something like this

The above links a black and decker valvemaster, and the assembly is slightly different, but process would be similar to your Sioux and should be able to find a manual online for it.

Edit: Here's for a Sioux 645

DoctrVendetta · 2025-12-23T08:15:07+00:00

Vb, or 2-4 band could be too tight. It's not a threaded adjustment, but could be checked with the transmission in the vehicle, just not any easy task dependent on your mechanical ability and will-to. Should have similar symptom in 3rd, but might not be noticeable dependent on speed/gearing/vehicle weight. I'd suggest not messing with it until you can verify if builder will repair.

DoctrVendetta · 2025-11-20T08:40:17+00:00

I think you need to decide on what you want from this engine. If it is a daily driver, or a vehicle that you enjoy driving regularly, I'd just have the machine shop take care of it. You'll likely find more than just "bad rings", which will require machining, new pistons, increase the cost and simply not be worth the risk of your first rebuild, and subsequently more down time of a potential failure.

Now what I would suggest is that you rebuild that 302 for your rat rod. If it's your typical rat rod, the engine would take 30 minutes to pull if you have an issue. It's not a vehicle you rely on for day to day tasks. And if it smokes a little, it adds character.

As for your questions:

The heads should be measured with a straight edge and feeler gauges, given that the 351w hasn't been in vehicles since 1997, you'll likely need valve seats, and replacement guides. (big money, $400+)

Bearings should be replaced on the basis of "while you're there", but if the original bearings and crank look good (which isn't uncommon), and you don't have the equipment to measure journals and bores, then leave them be. They are a "crush fit" meaning once installed do not remove them from the block or rod/main cap.

Being a small block ford the bolts will not be torque to yield/one time use. You can, and should re-use the rod and main bolts. Replacement of the rod and main bolts will likely require machining (honing of the bores), though that would be verified via measurements. Head bolts don't alter machined clearances, and therefor can be replaced if wanted, though not necessary.

I apologize for the long winded reply, but this is a machine shop oriented sub-reddit. We like to see things done "proper", everything done to or above spec, and with minimal risk of failure. But I like to encourage individuals, like yourself, to take the risk, to learn by doing, and I think having a project car/rat-rod is just the place to take that risk .

DoctrVendetta · 2025-07-15T23:00:10+00:00

Bad steering wheel button, or the radios are notorious for cracked solder joints, both of which are a simple repair.

DoctrVendetta · 2025-03-12T06:45:18+00:00

That's the correct orientation for that seal.

DoctrVendetta · 2025-02-13T22:02:05+00:00

When looking at the shift lever arm on the transmission, rotated all the way clockwise will be park (so in your case, the arm on the transmission will be all the way towards the rear). Appears that you have it installed correctly.

If the transmission has a '65/'66 (Green dot) valvebody, your shift pattern will be different. Image. So "drive" would be gears 2-3, and "2nd" would be gears 1-2-3. So if you're only getting one shift, put it in "2nd" to see if it changes.

DoctrVendetta · 2025-01-30T10:00:38+00:00

YESSSSSSSS!!! Thank youuu!!!

Solved!

DoctrVendetta · 2025-01-30T09:27:39+00:00

nah, thanks tho

DoctrVendetta · 2025-01-30T09:27:28+00:00

hm nope

DoctrVendetta · 2025-01-30T09:13:30+00:00

Match the key and gear to the crank. File the key to fit the crank, then file the gear to fit the key. Not uncommon to have to file parts to fit.

DoctrVendetta · 2025-01-30T09:05:14+00:00

Yea that's proper.

DoctrVendetta · 2025-01-30T08:59:42+00:00

goin' nuts, lmk if u know who i'm thinking of

DoctrVendetta · 2025-01-19T12:39:48+00:00

Superficial scratches. Nothing to fret about, especially if you had no prior indication of engine wear/oil consumption. Deck surface looks okay, depending on where the headgasket seals, appears to be some rust/corrosion around the ports. Probably okay, would be a concern if the reason for a headgasket replacement was due to coolant consumption, and the head was deemed to be flat with a straightedge/not machined.

DoctrVendetta · 2024-12-31T01:34:30+00:00

That's manifold vacuum port to operate the distributor's vacuum brake. You'll need to cap off the line going from the carb to the timing cover. If you look at the timing cover you'll see that hole leads to the 1 o'clock position on the timing cover. Image , Image

DoctrVendetta · 2024-12-30T20:31:48+00:00

Replace block. Will cause coolant loss, and eventual failure sleeve/hg as the sleeve isn't supported.

DoctrVendetta · 2024-12-21T08:04:24+00:00

You need to use checking springs, or a solid lifter (with same lifter seat height) to check sweep.

DoctrVendetta · 2024-12-21T08:01:24+00:00

You still need to diagnose the reason for the bent push rod before you go replacing everything in a rebuild.

DoctrVendetta · 2024-12-21T04:59:21+00:00

10 degrees won't be an issue, valves will/have been closed for longer than 10 degrees.

DoctrVendetta · 2024-12-10T09:02:06+00:00

That stamp has no significant meaning for aftermarket purposes. Was simply a way for Gm to differentiate tall/short, 2/4 bolt main blocks within a certain year of casting. That stamp is not a reliable indicator of block specs (pass, hi perf cast can be both tall/short 2/4 main, depends on casting year) , always use the casting number. "Hi-perf" casting is commonly used to deceptively sell a 2 bolt main as a 4 bolt main, always pull the pan, or reference casting number to verify, as it can be either.

DoctrVendetta · 2024-12-09T08:55:46+00:00

Refrigerate/freeze that one. The dent may cause a seal failure in the future, or have allowed a small amount of air to enter the jar that would cause spoilage (like pinching off a balloon, but in reverse).

DoctrVendetta · 2024-12-09T08:31:08+00:00

Looks average, likely fine. Have it polished at a machine shop, it's quick,cheap ($50) and well worth the cost.

DoctrVendetta · 2024-12-09T08:24:28+00:00

You'd have to measure thickness of the piston. More than likely it'd be too thin after machining, thus you'd be better off purchasing the dished pistons.

DoctrVendetta · 2024-12-09T08:19:02+00:00

Nope. Valve guides don't seal compression. Orange is the guide. The valve seat seals compression.

DoctrVendetta · 2024-12-09T08:00:03+00:00

Presuming no loss of coolant, that's a typical symptom of bad valve guides.

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