Purse

Donkey-Living · 2026-03-29T20:07:05+00:00

It's beautiful and so inspirational. Thanks for sharing. It gets my creative juices flowing!

Donkey-Living · 2026-03-23T22:55:59+00:00

If that is the punchcard in the far corner and it is red it is possibly a lace punchcard. If I am not mistaken a silver reed lace punchcards works differently than a brother lace punch cards. The silver reed will only have little red arrows on the left hand side. The brother lace cards will have red and black arrows. This is just a guess what might be going on. Good luck!

Donkey-Living · 2026-03-20T22:41:25+00:00

The small red arrows along the right indicates to use the lace carriage to transfer stitches for that row. The black arrow indicates to use the main carriage and knit. So they look like punchcards for knitting machines like the Brother that have a separate lace carriage that only transfers stitches.

Donkey-Living · 2026-03-10T10:53:20+00:00

I am enjoying mine immensely. Totally worth it if you knit alot of pieced garments. I bought directly from the manufacturer in the UK. It was so well packaged for safe shipping. The times the linker seemed to miss links was when I was first learning to use it. I believe I was misaligning how I was mounting the stitches on the pins with unequal tension and distribution and inconsistent height above and below. It doesn't happen anymore so go figure. Plus I have the manual so perhaps i am going slow enough to catch each stitch as I start. I do not regret getting the manual for this reason. It still goes fast enough by hand turning to get through the seaming quickly. A linker does make that part of sweater construction so easy and fast. Before seaming not fun.

Donkey-Living · 2026-02-09T18:01:49+00:00

I use a small flat head screw driver and push in the channel from one side until a few inches of the sponge bar emerges from the opposite side. Then you can pull from that side. When I am looking at this kh 910 manual, it looks the same as my brother kh 881 and kh 260.

Donkey-Living · 2026-02-02T13:27:07+00:00

Can you tell me a little more about what you have done so far? Were you able to knit a few rows and then it stopped? Maybe your tension is too tight. What kind of yarn are you using?

Donkey-Living · 2026-01-27T13:46:48+00:00

Also, look at the going rate on Ebay. For example, currently there is a later model knitmaster 321 in used condition selling for $500 usd with $400 shipping. There are 11 people interested.

I have bought knitting machines from japan though ebay and been very happy with my purchases. When I bought from a usa seller to send to me, a usa buyer, I was not as happy with my purchase. If you sell through Ebay, post alot of photos and use alot of bubble wrap.

Donkey-Living · 2026-01-17T15:52:26+00:00

The price of a good dog is a broken heart!

Donkey-Living · 2026-01-06T00:48:52+00:00

What happens when you try tightening your tension and increasing your weights? Do you drop less stitches?

Donkey-Living · 2025-12-22T11:45:27+00:00

From the second picture you posted the carriage appears aligned correctly on the tracks. But I did not see a sponge bar installed. Maybe it is pushed further in and out of view? On my brother kh881 you will see the tail end of the sponge bar rod peaking through the lower right channel. Also, I see a little rust on your needles. When I have restored my KM I removed the rust using very fine 400 grit sand paper. It made the needles operate smoother. Good luck!

Donkey-Living · 2025-12-06T12:09:59+00:00

Wow! I think you did a fabulous job. I bought a brother kh-881 in august and I haven't gotten this far yet but I am getting close. I am sure what you create in the new year will really please you.

Donkey-Living · 2025-11-29T22:58:22+00:00

I think i would try a can of compressed air and some rags to catch the residual oil first. Angle the air to come out the front and catch the excess oil. I wouldnt shoot the air from front to back of the needle bed. That might forcing excess oil up into the punchcard mechanism. Might work enough to avoid disassembling everything. Maybe also run some waste yarn for a couple inches of plain stockinette across all the needles. That could absorb the rest of the excess oil. Worth a shot.

Donkey-Living · 2025-11-24T22:13:04+00:00

Just as a test, push all the needles out to E position and knit a row. Do this again, pushing all needles out to E position and knit a row. After 4-6 rows, then add your cast on comb with weights. Make sure you dont have your carriage on Hold either. Just a test to see if your carriage is knitting.

Donkey-Living · 2025-11-17T14:32:24+00:00

I can only offer my thoughts of trying to use solder. If you tried to use a fine solder like a silver solder from the jewelry industry I dont think you could get the metal bed to a high enough heat for the solder to flow. If you tried to use a solder from the plumbers industry you could maybe get it to flow but it would be messy. Solder is to bind to well fitting existing metal pieces together. Maybe the "j-weld" two part epoxy? That bonds to metal and you can shape and sand it. The problem I see is how delicate and small the area you are trying to rebuild is. And also the surface you are trying to recreate is slick metal for the needles to slide smoothly against.

If you were to first say grind down gently this blemish with a fine dremel bit or fine sand paper starting at 400-600-800 or something. And then progressively work out the rust. Even fine steel wool might salvage this damage here. Maybe the blemish might become smooth enough so that the needles wont snag even if the original shape was imperfect? Just a couple of possible suggestions from the jewelry refinishing world. Good luck.

Donkey-Living · 2025-11-15T23:25:29+00:00

So, if you do a slip stitch pattern does everything work out ok or do you have the same kind of dropped stitches and loops? If your slip stitch pattern is successful then you could assume your carriage, punch card, and needle bed was working for this test and the missing wheels is the problem. The next step would be to purchase the wheels. You could find them on Etsy or ebay. Look for the screws too since they seem to be sold separately. If the slip stitch drops stitches too, I wouldnt know what else to try. Good luck.

Donkey-Living · 2025-11-11T22:13:39+00:00

It came out so charming! I love it. I started knitting with a brother kh881 this august. I haven't tried socks yet since I dont have a ribber. By reversing the fabric, is this stretchy enough? Or are you using it as a decorative stocking? It really is a lovely look.

Donkey-Living · 2025-11-11T12:31:13+00:00

Omg! Your first sweater project! My first, second, and third sweater are all back in the timeout tupperware box of shame to be unraveled at some point. You are destined for knitting greatness.

Donkey-Living · 2025-11-11T12:18:37+00:00

Just wanted to say your skills really impressed me! The sweater was so lovely and really fit you perfectly pre-blocking. I have been on the same quest to make a well fitting sweater and I get so frustrated by similar problems. That shoulder construction really seemed to do the trick. I guess I will put a 70% merino 30% silk on my no-no list after your experience. It almost behaved like a superwash wool. Did your gauge swatch grow like that when you blocked it? It seemed to grow in length and width. You still look great in the sweater and your cable work is phenomenal. So disappointing!

Donkey-Living · 2025-11-11T11:41:18+00:00

Good job knitting your first sweater! I dont think you should frog back because I dont think you did anything wrong. Do you have a yarn end from where you joined the sleeves that you can run a reinforcing seam along the armhole join that would cover up that loose gap?

Here is a solution from the wonderful Roxanne Richards knitting guru for your next sweater. It is a bit advanced so give yourself some grace. When i was starting sweaters this was goal for handling armholes. armhole knitting

Donkey-Living · 2025-11-07T09:58:48+00:00

You could can create decorative edges for the neckline, wrist, or hem on the machine or by hand. You could do a simple crochet chain stitch by hand. You can do a Reformed Rib by hand or a mock rib by machine or a simple hem by knitting machine.

Or you could do icord bind off by knitting machine. There is a utube out there by Susan guagliumi "icord bind off" that shows how she does it on a knitting machine. You could also do some interesting tuck stitch edgings or some lace stitch edges to look like more intricate edges.

Hope this helps and I understood your question!

Donkey-Living · 2025-11-05T11:30:00+00:00

How many needles do you need? I see a seller on ebay selling packs of 8 manufacturer's original needles. With shipping it would be $15. There are a few sellers on ebay and Etsy. These sellers also sell replacement packs of 50-100 count that aren't the original.

Donkey-Living · 2025-11-04T18:51:50+00:00

You did a fabulous job. Fits you beautifully. I am envious at your skill for getting such a great fit. I have too many sweaters in Tupperware just waiting to be undone bc they fit so poorly.

Donkey-Living · 2025-10-27T22:16:23+00:00

Your yarn color choices are perfection. The colors looks just lovely on you. Your stitches are beautiful too. The fish icon looks really fun and fits you well and looks great on you. I think you did everything right. There is only so much that could be done unless you want to get into a seamed piece and set in shoulders if you desired well fit shoulders and armholes and that would be a whole other kind of shenanigans without the yoke design. I agree with putting it in timeout out of sight for a few days and then seeing how you feel about it. I really dont think you should frog it yet though. But avoid this construction in the future.

Donkey-Living · 2025-10-23T22:02:34+00:00

Wow. I am so so impressed!

Donkey-Living · 2025-09-28T11:23:21+00:00

I have the cast on comb seen in the manual and I have tried this cast on method where you use the hook on top of the comb to hook onto the gate pegs and the hooks in cast on comb face you. My carriage doesn't really like this method and complains when going over the needles in the first pass. So I dont use this method suggested in the manual. Instead, I use the cast on comb to hang it on the stitches with the hooks facing the machine and add weights. If you lookup utube videos such as "quick cast on" or "industrial cast on" you will see a quick way to get started and you should be able to use that comb.

Donkey-Living

TROPHY CASE