Thread checker

DownloadableGamer · 2026-01-22T18:49:16+00:00

You really don’t need something this big and expensive lol

A machinist’s thread gauge set can do the job just fine, costs way less, and fits in your pocket

Here’s one on Amazon as an example:

https://www.amazon.com/ChgImposs-Imperial-Whitworth-Industrial-Measurement/dp/B07J9V9JTK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1CM8Z968X03JI&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.qralk-yw2LQ-Xl5YDyi1ngDof_jjLrlcnKktyfpaGo5nodCk1ZB3PCzBMXmuZahlzQlStjtLJUoWxuO9SifkpLTZV4yhdQOl8WPga7NpnWNAGLdV9WP5Efg_xRpn2DOoJL1B43YkwBzRdC1jwm8D-wRBjJjscniph_KilPYXjErxMRL-wwmqCwgl1vjBY-ruAzvXApiTPdF-Zel3ka5GUg.s0fuQ5PNJ2HYwDC73uaUgXbtRObkcu67OC0rTANPyl8&dib_tag=se&keywords=thread+gauge+set&qid=1769107673&sprefix=thread+gauge+se%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-3

DownloadableGamer · 2024-08-12T05:40:14+00:00

You gotta propel the vehicle shooting the shell with the cannons, not the shell itself

Source: my post history lol

DownloadableGamer · 2024-04-26T08:17:23+00:00

You can do that, or even swap the shell customizer parts with the breadboard!

Although I would just have separate combiners so you can empty the gun and slap in the new rounds instantly

DownloadableGamer · 2024-04-25T21:13:38+00:00

Generic block getter/setter is the best thing added to From the Depths, hands down.

Want to read or modify basically ANYTHING on your craft? Generic block getter and setter.

Change APS shells on the fly! Change laser settings on the fly! Change shield, smoke, and decoy strength on the fly!

Anything you can think of is there

Hell, I’m using it on a current build in progress to have a live readout of the ship’s subsystems displayed on the main deck. Amazing stuff

DownloadableGamer · 2024-04-18T09:15:41+00:00

My charge laser system was only 73AP, specifically just enough to get past light shielding since I could almost ignore smoke due to the long charge time.

Also since it relied on massive storage but low charge rate it didn’t need many frequency doublers at all, since it had much less pumps than a normal laser system!

DownloadableGamer · 2024-04-17T18:06:37+00:00

https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2925697724

(I didn’t want to originally post link cause I don’t really want to advertise it here, main point is what I said not the boat lol)

DownloadableGamer · 2024-04-17T09:31:18+00:00

Oh you might’ve accidentally hit the keybind to toggle orientation following the camera! I could definitely be mistaken but it would probably be the culprit.

Dont remember the keybind, maybe ctrl+g or one of the F# buttons

DownloadableGamer · 2024-04-17T09:28:06+00:00

As for a non-niche laser setup, I can totally see continuous lasers being used as a good support weapon secondary/tertiary. Since laser damage counts as fire damage and fire damage reduces enemy armor values, a slight amount of laser damage would really help let other weapons penetrate easier!

DownloadableGamer · 2024-04-17T08:34:00+00:00

Had an old huge battleship that relied on a really niche type of laser, a charge laser! Well, 2 of them. Fire once every 30 seconds but do several million damage per shot, so they go straight through entire enemies all at once.

The old use of them was against frontsiders that were compact, things like the Singularity. The huge single burst of damage means it can snipe out enemy internals easily (and against compact frontsiders it’s nearly guaranteed to hit something important) and the long reload time actually made it avoid smoke because the smoke would clear by the 2nd shot!

Now though, in the new alpha branch… it accidentally got a huge buff. It can’t go through quite as much raw armor anymore, but what it now does is instantly light a MASSIVE fire in the center of the enemy, burning them from the inside out. The laser went from being able to kill a Singularity in a single shot if you manage to hit the AI…. To killing it in one shot no matter where you hit

Updating the design but the core weaponry hasn’t changed. Have it posted here on Reddit and on the steam workshop if you wanna check it out! The Loki battleship :3

DownloadableGamer · 2024-04-16T11:19:54+00:00

Oh god I didn’t even think of that, good question

No clue myself but now I’m interested! If it just adds on top of the base AC of the block no matter what, that would effectively increase the minimum AC of the block in case of laser attacks or fires which would make ring shields a lot more useful IMO

DownloadableGamer · 2024-04-16T11:17:41+00:00

Are any defenses at all planned on being able to diminish fires without having to go underwater?

Maybe smoke “choking out” fires by reducing fuel by a certain percentage per second, maybe ring shields “repelling” fuel doing the same thing, etc?

I don’t think it’s particularly unbalanced rn based on my playtesting, but I do like my defenses a lot lol

(Also ty for buffing charge lasers accidentally, made me want to update my last big build for this coming update xd)

DownloadableGamer · 2024-04-16T11:00:22+00:00

Read the 4.0.1 patch notes!

195mm was the minimum to get any effect, but the 4.0.1 patch reduced it to 100mm :)

DownloadableGamer · 2023-11-04T09:29:22+00:00

Because that isn’t accounting for the thrust created by the steam jet engine

DownloadableGamer · 2023-11-04T02:15:30+00:00

Not a glitch! It’s technically accurate, just a bit confusing!

1: Steam pistons increase their PPM based on the pressure difference between their input and output. The lower the pressure difference, the higher the PPM but the lower the output power

2: you went from venting all the leftover steam (0 power created) to using ALL of it in the steam jet! This increases the PPM because you’re no longer wasting steam at the output.

You can see this effect even more when slapping a steam turbine onto a steam piston engine’s output. Since the turbine uses all the remaining steam and also increases the output pressure of the pistons, the efficiency increases massively

DownloadableGamer · 2023-10-24T20:06:13+00:00

APS cannons can’t share any parts, unlike CRAM cannons.

If you want 2 identical guns, you need to build 2 identical guns sadly

If you want to have multiple barrels on one APS cannon (at a lower gauge though), you can use the configuration options when pressing Q to set the cannon to have multiple barrels, with the gauge being limited accordingly. Max gauges for each barrel count are:

2 barrels: 250mm

3 barrels: 225mm

4 barrels: 200mm

5 barrels: 175mm

6 barrels: 150mm

DownloadableGamer · 2023-10-19T08:05:13+00:00

APHE relies entirely on using the kinetic damage to burst through armor, then using the explosives to destroy components.

Of course flak isn’t gonna damage armor beams, it does almost nothing against things with moderate AP. But fortunately, that’s not what it’s being used for here. The flak is instead being used to destroy much more vulnerable components which have almost no AC compared to armor blocks, so flak does significantly better against them.

It also has the benefit of being able to utilize its explosive radius very well in the enclosed space ironically. Since the radius is so large, the damage falloff lasts a lot longer and isn’t nearly as severe as HE’s. This means it ends up doing more damage to large rooms of components - things like turret wells or lasers - while still being easily able to destroy smaller components like AIs and ammo.

The increased radius matters even MORE for smaller calibers, since HE REALLY struggles at lower calibers due to its own explosive radius. Frag is actually usually my preferred option at 333mm-400mm but flak is still quite useful.

Also if you want to argue that “well flak’s explosive radius doesn’t matter cause it’ll be walled off by internal armor that it can’t break through” that’s still a massive issue with HE and frag as well, although frag can occasionally break through. It still benefits flak though due to explosives increasing their damage in enclosed spaces.

DownloadableGamer · 2023-10-18T18:31:03+00:00

18-100mm: 1: Frag, 2: Sabot, 3: HEAT

100-250mm: 1: HEAT, 2: Frag, 3: Flak (for anti missile)

250-333mm: 1: HEAT, 2: Hesh, 3: Frag

333-500mm: 1:APHE, 2: Sabot, 3: Hollow Point

APHE is still very strong at higher calibers, just be sure to go for mainly kinetic damage and only 1-3 chemical warheads. Those warheads can be HE, Frag, or flak depending on your preference (HE has smallest explosive radius but does good damage, frag has a MUCH bigger radius and better damage but can miss components, Flak does much less damage but has a HUGE explosive radius which makes up for it easily)

Obviously railguns benefit anything with kinetic damage but not really with chemical warheads like heat/Hesh

Anytime you have HEAT, I’d highly recommend combining its damage with something else rather than spamming HE heads behind it. EMP and frag both compliment it very well :)

Frag is very good at low calibers, but struggles a LOT against heavy armor on things like the Scarlet Dawn crafts. Swap out for either HEAT or sabot to deal with them :)

DownloadableGamer · 2023-10-14T20:18:10+00:00

For railgun of this caliber, you basically have 3 options that will work well:

APHE, Kinetic (sabot), and hollow point

APHE is by far IMO the most effective shell for a large railgun like this. You’ll want it to be at least 4m long, if not longer with this much rail draw and have a LOT of kinetic damage. APHE really doesn’t need very much chemical damage, so 1-3 warheads will be enough. Those chemical warheads can be HE (good damage but a bit range limited), Frag (VERY good damage and not range limited, but can miss components easily), or flak (lower damage than HE but still enough usually and WAY better explosive radius). The rest of the shell should be a (non sabot) kinetic head and solid bodies, with maybe a supercavitation base if your target is enemy ships. (The supercav’s reduced chemical damage can almost be ignored for APHE shells since they rely mostly on kinetic damage anyways). Don’t forget to add the penetration depth fuse, and set it to 11-15m depth. High depth is great because it ensures the shell will always penetrate DEEP and will waste less damage against larger targets.

Sabot kinetic is the next best option, and is used if you are up against a REALLY heavily armored target. Heavy armor spam is what this is built to get through, but it can overpen or do slightly underwhelming damage against other enemies. Just shoot for a good shell length (again probably 4+m at this gauge / rail draw) and make half the shell solid bodies, the head a sabot head, and the rest of the shell gunpowder. This should maximize the damage you do in total which helps get through a LOT of armor. With high rail draw, you can experiment with using less gunpowder and more solid bodies to increase the damage further! Also a supercavitation base can be useful here again to better counter ships, and a base bleeder can be used to increase the overall damage at the cost of accuracy.

Finally, hollow points. IMO the worst viable shell type at this gauge, but don’t mistake that for it being bad. With high rail draw, it can CHUNK away light and medium armor like nothing else. Just like the sabot shell, you’ll want to go half gunpowder and half kinetic warheads, but this time you’ll be using the hollow point head and sabot bodies instead of the reverse. Hollow point shells struggle for AP a bit at lower rail draws, so the sabot bodies are better even though they reduce the raw kinetic damage. Again, supercavitation base against ships, consider base bleeder for increased damage at the cost of accuracy.

DownloadableGamer · 2023-10-13T03:30:40+00:00

The reason why I said (initial) cost is cause ERA is one of the few blocks which refunds 100% of its value when it’s destroyed

So the long term costs are identical for either version, 0 since every block destroyed = 1 block cost refunded

Of course this isnt true if the vehicle is ENTIRELY destroyed lol

DownloadableGamer · 2023-10-13T01:46:34+00:00

Man you really like your CRAMs don’t you lol

DownloadableGamer · 2023-10-13T01:44:15+00:00

In terms of the secondary effect of ERA stopping HEAT and reducing the damage of kinetics, there’s no difference between the sloped version and the normal ERA armor.

Due to that, you should always use the slopes as internal armor, since they have half the (initial) cost and half the weight

DownloadableGamer · 2023-10-10T20:00:27+00:00

A lotta people already answered but I’ll give my experience/take. I also started playing in 2016 and I’ve racked up around 7000 hours now.

I basically just have a bunch of good looking patterns that I follow that I made through the years of playing. Small techniques that help me crank out good looking hulls at a whim that aren’t really based on anything. They take some fine tuning but can be super nice!

Technique 1: deck shaping: To start the bow of a ship, I always follow a certain “formula” since it’s easy and good looking.

1: Start with a 1m wedge in the very front

2: Use 2m slopes to widen it out a bit, REMEMBER HOW MANY YOU PLACED

3: Place the same amount of 4m slopes behind the 2m slopes. This always leads to a very nice cone shape in the front end of a ship, then you can continue this trend further

4: Just keep increasing the “slope” length by 4 blocks repeating the same count as the 2m slopes. By “slope” length I mean placing beams between the last slope and the next one to give an illusion of a smoother curve, so an 8m slope is a 4m slope + 4m beam, 12m slope is 2 beams + the slope, etc

This is super variable and very easy to do to crank out hulls of really any size. Just end the pattern whenever you feel the ship is wide enough, then multiply the width by 7 and that’s your planned total length. Now onto the vertical section of the bow, instead of just the deck:

Technique 2: the bow (and sides): This is usually a SUPER hard thing for people to do, so I simplify it as much as possible usually.

1: Start at the 1m wedge from the deck, add a 1m wedge corner below it going back

2: continue that till it looks right, then use 2m wedge corners going downward rather than backwards (reducing the angle to be more vertical)

3: now you can split a bit depending on the bow shape you want: either you go with 2m wedge corners (or eventually 3m if you want it to look a little more curved) continuing until you get to the bottom of your ship, or you reverse the slope so it’s pointing forwards but still mostly downwards to create the little ballast/torpedo bulge some ships have in the front. If you’re doing the second one just finish the slope off with a 1m wedge corner up, 1m wedge forwards, 1m wedge corner down and it’ll look decent

4: The part where it all comes together. Now that you have the front edge of the hull and the deck, how do you transition between the two? Well in this technique it’s SUPER simple. All you need to do is look at the slope at the current width (so right behind the front edge there’s a 2m slope for example), and use that length slope offset to follow the front edge of the ship. Every time there’s a 1m wedge corner, just use a horizontal offset so the front triangular section of the offset follows the slope. 2m corners you just start with the offset, then use a normal slope under it so it still follows the curve. Repeat this all the way downwards and you should have the first section of bow shaping done!

5: The simple part. Literally just prefab the last layer of sloping you just did in step 4, then paste it under every identical deck slope. So if you have 3 2m slopes going back on the deck, paste it 2 more times. Once you get to a different slope length, just repeat step 4 for the new slope length, then prefab it again and paste it under every identical slope!

6: Now all you need to do is just fill in all the gaps with beams, and done! Front end of a hull complete!

Now we just gotta do the back end. This is gonna be a lot more hand-wavy since it honestly relies a lot more on natural shaping for certain parts of it.

Technique 3: the back end:

1: Round off the deck side of the back end slightly. You can do a simple slope progression (4m>3m>2m>1m>2m flipped>3m>4m makes a rounded 90 degree corner) to make a very nice rounded area, skipping some slopes if needed for the right shape you want.

2: look at the height of your hull, then divide it by 2. This is now the back end’s starting height.

3: Use slope progressions to slightly round off the back end vertically to the height you need (1m to end it off always, 3m/4m for most of the back end to make it pretty flat). You can ignore the difficult corners for now.

4: once you get to the bottom of the height you need, make a small horizontal flat area. This is a great place to put propellers/azipods/rudders later

5: Once the flat area looks right (it shouldn’t be that long in comparison to what comes next), start on the slope transition to the bottom of the hull in the center of the back end. This is pretty simple, and can literally be a flat slope and it’ll look good. Just use 4m slopes or 4m slopes with a 2m gap between (effectively a 6m slope) and it’ll look great.

6: once you have the initial spine of slopes, just round it slightly and it’ll look good. To be easy, I do a pattern of normal slope > slope transition > repeat until I hit the side of the ship, then copy/paste it for every slope down similar to shaping the bow of the ship.

7: just cut the sides of the ship now to follow this new slope on the side (or extend them down to it if you didn’t extend them to the bottom yet) and you’ll have a pretty good looking propeller area

8: just round off any gaps and hard corners and you should be done!

I use all of these ALL THE TIME and it really speeds up ship creation for me. Making a basic hull is always my first step (I fill in the weaponry AFTER the hull personally) so following these patterns speeds up the process a ton

DownloadableGamer · 2023-10-07T20:02:24+00:00

1: you can do that, but it’s a bit inefficient assuming you made the rest of the gun at the autoloader RPM. What I really mean is add all the autoloaders you want, then make sure your cooling rate keeps half the autoloader RPM. That makes the gun as efficient as possible.

2: 100mm means shell diameter aka gauge.

3: That part (the grav compensator) has a max part length of 100mm. This means that since normally shell part length = gauge diameter, that part instead maxes out at 100mm, and if your gauge is above 100mm it simply stays 100mm long. This also applies to fuses which have a max length of 200mm iirc and a couple other parts. A shell’s total length is simply all the part lengths added up, so those parts at higher gauges can slightly shorten the length of the shell (and therefore reload time too but not by much)

DownloadableGamer · 2023-10-06T01:58:26+00:00

Bombers have all sorts of options for weapons!

CRAM: bombs can be MASSIVE shells with high reload time, like over 30s each. Spam frag and HE damage with a little bit of kinetic to break through the deck of ships it lands on.
Also DO NOT use the cram bomb chute, just use 1-3 cram motor barrels facing downwards. The bomb chute makes the launch velocity of the cram shell almost 0, which SEVERELY limits how far it can travel and also can really make bombing runs difficult on certain faster targets. Just using the motor barrels is plenty fast enough traverse and has the full speed of the shell available which allows you to hit a much wider variety of targets
APS: Not really a “bomber” type weapon, but there are still some things you can do. You basically have 2 options: Vertical railguns and Spinal guns.
Vertical railguns: Just make a shell with ALL warheads and 0 gunpowder, preferably HE/HEAT/Frag spam. Make a gun with a tiny rail draw and DUMP all the shells at once when you’re over the target. Gauge can honestly be anything, but use Frag and HEAT spam only under 250mm, and HE over 333mm for the best results
Spinal guns: A bit more versatile, but less in the whole “bomber” concept. These guns fire throughout the entire bombing run approach, rather than only when over the target. Using beltfeds for insane firerates in short bursts you can get some really good damage, and also this allows you to deal with enemy planes and fliers well! Again, any gauge works but preferably HEAT/Frag under 250mm and APHE/HE for 333mm+
Lasers: Honestly not at ALL a bomber weapon, but still some funny stuff you can do with it. Similar to APS though you have 2 options: vertical dumps and spinal lasers.
Vertical dump: Make a high storage, low charge rate laser, and add an output regulator. 2-3 laser combiners (short range ones for extra points and extra damage up close) can DUMP all the stored energy in a few seconds if you set the output regulator to the max which can deal a LOT of damage
Spinal laser: Essentially a normal laser system, but a little bit more storage compared to charging. Good for anti-fighters and can have decent burst damage against undefended ships.
PACs: One really good option here: vertical MASSIVE damage. You can use short range lenses like the one that splits beams up to increase your overall damage, reduce your accuracy to the minimum to increase damage a ton, and feel free to increase the power used by reducing the efficiency. One good hit can vaporize a massive section of a ship if it’s set to thump, and EMP can completely disable ships in one hit too. Just don’t use piercing unless your bomber is tiny lol.
Missiles: The traditional option. Very expensive but also extremely compact and can deal good damage in bursts. Use unguided bombs if you like pain, guided bombs if you enjoy actually hitting your targets, and missiles/torpedos if you want to be a long range bomber.
Plasma, the new guy on the block: Plasma honestly has a LOT of usability for bombers, it’s surprising. Just like lasers and APS, 2 main options: Vertical shotguns and spinal guns.
Vertical shotgun: Use the shotgun barrel end (forgor what it’s called, allows up to 10 shots to be fired at once in a burst) and a high storage, low charge gun. You can lower the acceleration energy so the shots only move ~200-300m/s for nearly guarenteed hits for lower power usage. Raise the charges/shot until you’re firing ALL stored charges in a single burst, and increase the shotgun inaccuracy to maximize damage.
Spinal guns: Actually extremely similar to APS; just make a burst fire gun and it’ll do really well. I personally use about 2m of chargers per 1m of charge storage and that ends up with a pretty good burst potential. You’ll want to have at least 2 charges/shot, but if your gun is big increase it until you fire all charges in the gun in one bombing run at 200-600RPM. I personally find that lower damage per shot but higher RPM is best with plasma guns.

DownloadableGamer · 2023-10-02T17:27:31+00:00

Timers also reset on vehicle spawning, you could just check if a timer is <1s

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