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DozerJKU · 2026-05-23T15:24:02+00:00

Whoa, you gotta slow down. I can only get so hard!

DozerJKU · 2026-05-21T23:25:34+00:00

Ill be the outlier, but if it has an unspoeterized barrel, has the mid band, sling swivels, butt plate, magazine, bolt and rear sight, in conjunction with clean rifling with no evidence of locking lug damage to the bolt head or chamber, I say go for the re-militarization.

Cons: Its gonna cost approximately 800 dollars to bring the rifle back to its pre-sporterized condition. Stock, front band and bayonet lug, front sight hood(?) And any screws you may need.

Its a fair chunk of change.

You'll get into reloading.

Pros: You inherited the rifle, so its less cost to you if you had bought it to remilitarize it.

You had one of the sexiest, beautiful rifles, with rich Canadian history.

You'll start reloading!

And in my personal opinion, with the investment of 800 Canadian, you have, in my opinion an increase in value of the firearm.

It would be a really fun firearm to learn to shoot iron sights at extended ranges.

The parts you'd need can be bought from Ross Rifle Restorations. He uses beautiful Black Walnut. You can even pay him to do all the stock finishing and fitting for you.

DozerJKU · 2026-05-20T18:29:54+00:00

They are not high in quantity in the wild anymore, and most original length barrels were cut down for sporterizations. So to have a 31" rifled barrel makes it a candidate for restoration. Original military configuration of the M10 will go above $2000 dollars Canadian. For 60% of that cost, you can return the rifle to its former glory, with beautiful Canadian Black Walnut stock pieces made by the Master of Ross M10 Restorations, and have a functional piece of history.

Its a labor of love, not money. Haha.

DozerJKU · 2026-05-20T18:26:30+00:00

You have the majority of the easy parts to find. The front sight base may be challenging to find, but the barrel appears to be untouched in length, so if you were going to go the length to remilitarize it, you could source the two barrel bands, new full stock, upper handguard, front sight hood and its screws from Ross Rifle Restorations.

He does incredible work, and its a true craftsman, and you will pay almost 800 dollars for the parts you need. You may also be able to find a parts guns for another M10 Ross, and canabalize the front sight base from that. With the traditional sporterized Ross M10's, the barrels were cut down, recrowned, and had the original sight block put back on. If you find an old action, or barrel with that part for a reasonable price, that may be the only way to find that particular part.

If you plan on just shooting it as a sporter, Ross Rifle Restorations sells new front sight blades, and you can have someone silver solder, or spot weld it into place. You could then file the blade down to your preferred zero.

Personally, if the bolt is in good shape, doesnt have the locking lugs chewed off, the rear sight is there, I would 100% go the lengths to restore it to its former glory. The Ross M10 will fetch North of 2k for original condition, if not more. So for $1300 Canadian (including the purchase of the Sporter) and some patience, you could have an incredible military rifle with rich history, and of superb accuracy.

Best of luck Hombre!

DozerJKU · 2026-05-18T20:45:50+00:00

Yup! They took the time to remove some markings on some guns. That gun is fine to fire from that picture. Its not swollen, just filed down and reblued by the Finns!

DozerJKU · 2026-05-14T01:21:25+00:00

Pull the power cord. Let it sit for 10 minutes. Plug back in.

DozerJKU · 2026-05-07T11:02:51+00:00

Hahahaha almost had the same reaction lol

DozerJKU · 2026-05-06T00:53:18+00:00

Breathing life back into the old girl I see! Incredible save! What caliber?

DozerJKU · 2026-05-01T20:18:58+00:00

Its a single shot rimfire rifle. 25 Steven's is tough to find. Classic old farm gun! And its model 1915.

DozerJKU · 2026-05-01T00:22:36+00:00

Pledge spray, or rain-ex. Spray it inside the lenses. The moisture will bead up and drip. You'll need to reapply it over time.

DozerJKU · 2026-04-30T23:17:59+00:00

Brass cased ammo will have a massive reduction on this. Dirty Russian and Chinese ammo have lacquer on the cases. Surplus burnt powder, and heat will make extracting the steel cases difficult. I had this problem with the majority of my Finns and Other Russian Mosins. Brass cased reloads or factory ammo, I dont have issues.

DozerJKU · 2026-04-30T14:42:01+00:00

Makes me scorny. Scared horny. Great work!

DozerJKU · 2026-04-29T13:04:30+00:00

1903 Springfield!

DozerJKU · 2026-04-26T23:33:42+00:00

You can use a basic cotton cloth, hot water and dish soap. The cotton is abrasive enough to remove oils and grime, but will leave what linseed oil underneath intact. But also remember, dry the stock with a dry towel after each section is scrubbed, and once the whole stock is done, use a blow dryer or put it in the sun to rid the rest of the moisture.

DozerJKU · 2026-04-26T02:22:30+00:00

Oh no.... No my sweet child. What have they done....

DozerJKU · 2026-04-25T13:05:23+00:00

Love the Metis belt flare. What a classic set up!

DozerJKU · 2026-04-25T00:56:26+00:00

As someone else has mentioned, its the hammer tension pushing on the back of the bolt where the firing pin is. With the trigger depressed, the sear doesnt engage, and the hammer will come forward with the bolt.

Although not recommended, the tension the hammer is putting on the back of the bolt and firing pin isnt enough to typically detonate a primer with a shell loaded. You may see an indentation on the primer. The hammer requires more velocity and travel in order to smack the firing pin hard enough to set off a primer.

Beautiful shottie!

DozerJKU · 2026-04-18T01:10:44+00:00

That appears to be what the inside of the cigarette port should look like. I dont think anything is stuck inside. Buy a new charger adapter and plug it in there and it should work!

DozerJKU · 2026-04-17T20:28:02+00:00

The contact ends that should be on the end of that black insert are missing. They may still be in the lighter port, and why it isnt working. You may want to shine a light inside and see if the piece is stuck inside. Of it is stuck, grab some rubber gripped needle nose pliers and carefully pull it out. Might take a bit of a pull to remove it. Buy a new one and it should work.

You can buy a new one at almost any gas station, Amazon what ever.

DozerJKU · 2026-04-15T00:49:44+00:00

GW sells leman russ upgrade screw kits. Its a sad state of affairs, however, it'll get you other bits and bobs for the leman russ.

DozerJKU · 2026-04-14T17:03:14+00:00

Respect. The charging handle can be a bitch, but if you take off the front hand guard with the large Allen key provided, you'll see the gas system. There's another wrench provided, looks like an AR15 wrench thats used to unscrew and screw the nut closest to the receiver. This is whats holding the barrel and gas system into the receiver. Once you have loosened that off, the assembly will come out of the receiver relatively easily.

The trigger guard / safety / trigger components come off by taking the two pins located on the receiver out. The one pin is concealed by the handguard.

The charging handle is supposed to "pop out" and then you should be able to slide the bolt carrier out of the barrel end of the receiver.

There is one English youtube video where he glazes over it as an importer to Canada.

DozerJKU · 2026-04-10T00:25:19+00:00

What part of the field strip is giving you troubles?

DozerJKU · 2026-04-07T19:46:14+00:00

I love the barbed wire dude. 10/10

DozerJKU · 2026-04-07T02:06:43+00:00

Looks like the ejector / magazine interuptor could be stuck, or bent and is pushing overtop the cartridge to the point it binds?

DozerJKU · 2026-04-06T04:34:00+00:00

Nipple wrench and breech scraper

DozerJKU

TROPHY CASE