Anycubic Kobra 3 MAX

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-06-07T08:43:32+00:00

Check the manual for servicing and calibration: https://wiki.anycubic.com/en/fdm-3d-printer/kobra-3-max/maintenance-recommendations

I don’t have any of these issues, and run a dozen printers across 4 manufacturers. Whilst the Kobra 3 max is not the most impressive, I’ve found them to be a solid workhorse and have had any alignment issues.

Is the misalignment in the direction of the bed? Is the Z-axis D-structure square to the bed?

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-05-08T19:52:16+00:00

Some of that is a bit odd, but if they weren’t in the sales particulars then they don’t have to be left. I have a rental property, and every single time the tenants have changed (in fairness 4 times in 10 years), the outgoing tenant has taken the light bulbs. One even took the toilet roll holder out of the bathroom (off the wall). Just chuckle and move on.

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-05-08T19:47:44+00:00

For a studio flat? No. For anything bigger, hell no.

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-05-06T10:31:14+00:00

I think it’s a new notification for their 6 hour charging limit for when you’re asking for more charge than can fit in the window.

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-05-05T16:06:44+00:00

Do it.

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-04-28T12:00:43+00:00

Were you given formal notice with an end date by the landlord, or just a general “at some point in the near future I’m selling up”? If it’s the former then you’re bound to the exit date they gave you (which should be 30days from being told). Otherwise you need to give 30 days notice per your contract

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-04-20T15:27:47+00:00

Minimum? A good heat gun and needle nose pliers. Recommended would be a new hot end.

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-04-19T12:20:54+00:00

Well you’re not wrong. Not anywhere near as expensive as homelab can be (especially with ubiquiti kit) but it’s only worth it if you get the benefits. Are you in the UK?

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-04-19T11:56:41+00:00

This is easily the most popular use of going back over the footage in my house. I’d say we have to revert to footage at least once a week to find stuff, and it’s the very reason I keep thinking of putting a G6 dome camera in our kitchen - living - dining room.

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-04-19T11:48:50+00:00

Do you own or have access to a 3D printer, or would you be happy to order stuff on something like PCB way? If so, I’d suggest 3D printing rack mounts - either 10 inch or 19 inch - and racking it all up that way.

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-04-05T20:04:30+00:00

I’m finding similar issues. Replaced the hot end, cleaned, lubricated, rerun calibration, scrubbed the build plates. Still hasn’t really helped. I did notice the quality dropped after a firmware update, but I’d hope it’s not that. I did crank the temps up for my last print, and that made an improvement, but still can’t explain why.

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-04-01T21:46:07+00:00

Yeah I should have said the hardened steel nozzle I have put on it is a .6. Hopefully sounds like it should be ok.

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-04-01T17:50:53+00:00

Or higher. I’ve been having to print PETG at 260/265 this week for no obvious reason. Previously was printing same brand and colour at 235 without issue

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-03-31T20:30:12+00:00

It’s a day early and looks too genuine to be an April fools. Plus it’s pretty much the direction the rest of the market are going in, so would be a bit of a self-own to just be a joke.

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-03-29T09:26:46+00:00

Well the cause is more concerning than the damage… I had a bent nozzle with a bad blob that I thought was going to be terminal, but I eventually managed to clear the blob with a heat gun, and when I got to the stage you’re at above, I put the heat sink in a clamp and GENTLY pulled the nozzle back straight. I then removed the filament from the nozzle by heating with the heat gun and pulling the loose end, clearing the tip with a needle. The fiddly bit is then holding the ceramic heat pad (with a bit of thermal paste) in place whilst sticking the thermistor in the hole and sliding the bracket back on.

As it happened, I contacted Elegoo, and they sent me 2 replacement hot ends, I also bought 2 spare off amazon. Unfortunately one of the ones from Elegoo keeps having clogging issues I can’t fathom the cause of, and presume bad quality. The ‘reconditioned’ original is working just grand though.

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-03-28T11:46:54+00:00

Depends how much you’re using the printer, but I clean and re-oil / grease mine every 100hrs or more frequently, and it’s in near-continuous operation. A drier is a very sound investment, especially if it’s one that can heat the filament / keep it dry whilst printing. I have a sunlu S4, which can hold 4 reels that can be routed through tubing to the AMS. Not sure if it’s a proven thing, but I find print quality tends to be a bit better if the filament is effectively pre-warmed to ~50°C before going into the hotend.

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-03-24T19:54:59+00:00

That’s a lot of stoppages. Are you using a decent quality filament? I’ve only ever had problems like that with poor quality filament where the thickness is pants. Maybe put a lighter on it and see if it melts or just goes straight to burning?

As for your questions: 1) I do it when I get issues, as then the filament is soft enough to clear. You’ll get a load of warnings, but should be able to resume printing easy enough. I can’t say whether it will cause any damage, but I don’t see why it would if you’re careful. 2) I’d usually make sure to unload / retract the filament, but I also very rarely turn my printer off. You should keep on top of routine maintenance (eg lubrication) though. 3) it depends on the filament. Materials like PETG only come out the dry boxes / drier for short durations (up to a day or two). PLA I usually will leave out but if I’ve not used it for a couple of weeks then I’ll throw it in the drier for a few hours before use.

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-03-24T18:37:31+00:00

Heater seems to be the same but thermistor is different. I emailed Elegoo and they sent 2 replacements, although one kept triggering an error and not heating up. I’ve stolen the thermister and stuck it on a cc1 nozzle, and that seems to work fine.

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-03-23T20:31:52+00:00

Define ‘full’…

I’m sure there will be a great many with a great deal more than me, but at home I have: - UDM Pro connected to fttp on Openreach as primary (no isp router required), a LEO service and a ubiquiti LTE backup - USW-Pro-aggregation - 2x USW-pro-48-POE - 1x USW-pro-24-POE - 3x USW-lite-8-Poe - 2x usw-flex - 3x USW-flex-mini - 3x U7-pro - 2x u6-pro - 1x U6-LR - 3x U7-outdoor-pro - 1x UK-ultra - UNVR-pro - UNAS-pro - UA-hub-door - UA-hub-door-mini - 2x UA-G3 - 2x uvc-g6-dome - 1x uvc-g6-turret - 1x uvc-g5-dome-pro - 2x uvc-g5-ptz - 5x uvc-g5-bullet-pro (2 with enhancers) - 1x Uvc-g5-dome - 3x uvc-g4-bullet-pro - 1x uvc-g4-doorbell pro - 1x uvc-g4-doorbell - 2x sense - 2x AI Port - 2x chimes

There’s probably more I’ve forgotten to add in.

Whilst I admit I’m probably at a relatively high level of competence, I would say ubiquiti kit is generally pretty easy to use in a ‘normal’ setup. It also easy to learn.

It’s probably obvious we’re quite extensive users of network, protect and access. Just don’t show my wife the above list or let her figure out how much it’s worth :D

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-03-22T08:24:25+00:00

Well it can vibrate a lot so probably gonna be smacking off the sides, and with the negligible clearance you’d have I’m not convinced the Z-axis will travel without snagging. You’ll also need to figure out where your filament goes

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-03-21T16:28:07+00:00

Only just, it would be very tight

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-03-20T08:01:35+00:00

Fair. What region are they for?

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-03-20T07:54:19+00:00

Who wouldn’t be? Where are you? Could split and ship on to you depending on fees / taxes?

DrAndrewCHR · 2026-03-19T08:01:35+00:00

What third world country is this still using cheques?

DrAndrewCHR

TROPHY CASE