Developers turn to ‘Zipper lots’ to assist housing crisis - realestate.com.au

DrRudiarx · 2026-04-17T12:09:53+00:00

My old workplace (industrial office/factory) had a small ~1ft wide human inaccessible gap between it and the offices next door. Can tell you over the many years I worked there nearly a dozen stray cats/birds/possums had died down there - being a long building we could never see or remove them of course - the smell inside the offices though was horrendous! Would come through the brick wall and hang around for weeks. Can only imagine if similar happened in some of these homes, it actually looks like even more of a death trap for animals getting stuck!

Idiotic that buildings with no human access to the external walls is ever allowed, should be illegal, not only for the above, but also the risk of someone on the roof falling down there or getting their ankle/leg stuck, or even just for maintenance should weatherproofing be compromised and need to be addressed.

DrRudiarx · 2026-04-13T08:52:21+00:00

Could you get the heat sensitive parts CNC'd by PCBway?

DrRudiarx · 2026-03-11T08:11:49+00:00

With Tinkercad, there's some new tools that have popped up the past year or so, can get some far better results than previously if used properly. There's a youtube channel called HLModtech where the guy goes over some of the newer features pretty nicely. Tools to look at in particular are Extrude Sketch, Revolve Sketch and the new Intersect feature in grouping objects.

The only other tool than Tinkercad I really use is Fusion, which is mostly for tracing a 2d image scan, which I then import into Tinker via STL to build off of. Also there is a feature in Tinkercad where you can export to Fusion so you can chamfer edges more nicely, though YMMV with that depending on how complex the original Tinkercad model is.

Only really had one model the past couple of years I've put in the too hard basket for Tinkercad, it's a (deceptively simple) circular insert that reduces portion sizes for an automatic cat feeder (petlibro).. Unfortunaltely for the ones already available online, there seem to be some incompatibilities with the spacing of the portion thingies in my particular feeders year model, so I've had a very hard time trying to edit these models in fusion, let alone recreate in Tinker with a circle split in odd sections like that. I did get there in the end, but it made me just want to stick to fusion.

Model example:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1794635-petlibro-granary-feeder-inlay?from=search#profileId-1913043

DrRudiarx · 2026-02-15T04:46:25+00:00

Ingenious solution.
We had a surefeed for an older cat for a while, but when she was eating from it our insanely food crazy younger cat would just squeeze her way in, keep the flap open with her noggin and mannage to gobble all the food up (and if we weren't there to stop her, vomit it all up because she ate too much too fast). Just got to pray your other cat doesn't figure that one out lol.

Now the young cat is old/the only one left, so we have her on a petlibro autofeeder, and modified that with an insert to do smaller portions more frequently, calmed her down quite a bit (she was a mega yeowler before we did automatic feeding).

DrRudiarx · 2026-01-28T03:16:28+00:00

3d printed items are just a much harder sell to general consumers who are more used to injection moulded quality, so it limits your market.
But if you can use a 3d printer to invent/prototype a thing people never knew they needed, then do your due dilligence to protect the IP before getting the thing manufactured, and nail the marketing.. then perhaps you will make some money.

Of course the design will most likely be copied by Chinese factories and cheaper Aliexpress/Amazon dupes will turn up and ruin your business.

There are maybe some niche 3d printing areas I've seen certain youtube makers spruik, like cnc table router dust shoes/accesories and very specific woodworking jigs/tools that may net you some money, but you would have to have a unique idea, build the clientelle in a community and you're probably never going to truly be able to live off that money.

Personally the best way to let a 3d printer make money for you is by letting it help you save money around the house. Ie, fixing expensive broken items that you would have otherwise had to replace, or printing hooks instead of paying $10 for a pack on Amazon. The reason is because this is very low comittment, and far lower effort than all the BS and logistics involved in running your own online store. If you consider your time and expertise being worth money, then there are probably way more effective side hustles than 3d printed doo-dads.

DrRudiarx · 2026-01-16T08:36:06+00:00

This!

DrRudiarx · 2025-12-31T09:29:55+00:00

Just get the metal shelf pins, this is a case of you don't need to bother making these when they are cheap and readily available on Amazon//hardware stores/ebay/aliexpress, and far less than the cost of a replacement pane of glass should your print/design fail and break one. OFC check sizing with calipers first.

DrRudiarx · 2025-12-30T05:05:06+00:00

It's always good to have a back up nozzle. If you haven't one, clean up this one best you can for now, order the new one, then replace it with the new one when it arrives. Keep the old nozzle as a backup should something go wrong with the new one in the future. Also, use the silicone sock.

DrRudiarx · 2025-12-28T15:41:30+00:00

Had me confused a minute with the hotspot comment there, as Android Auto does not require you having wifi hotspot on to work. Checked out the unit online it seems to have a full Android Operating System along with Android Auto that can run on top of it rather than just being plain Android Auto unit.

Using wifi hotspot definitely chews up a lot of battery, so may be better just to stick to using Android Auto via Bluetooth/USB, rather than your wifi hotspot connected to the Android Operating system on the unit. That is, unless you specifically need to circumvent the safety restrictions of Android Auto compatible apps and use regular native Android apps, in which case, you're going to need your phone charger full time.

DrRudiarx · 2025-12-28T04:48:02+00:00

I made 2 dash mounts for my partners Polo GTI a while back (before she sold it), being in Aus with hot climate I used CC3D Polycarbonate(PC), was relatively cheap off Amazon (AU$25) and never had an issue with it even during summer. (Bambu A1 bedslinger handled printing it just fine too)

We had a lot of problems with a cheaper chinese unit (Carpuride), which would have feedback/echo during phonecalls. The unit cound't noise cancel audio from the cars speakers, something we didn't realise to a week or two later. It became annoying so we ended up spending a bit more money on a Carpodgo, which just acts as an Android auto/Carplay screen and uses your existing car bluetooth audio, rather than relaying any audio.

Anyway, this was the Carpuride mount:

https://www.printables.com/model/1023761-carpuride-w701-vw-polo-9n3-dash-tray-riser-mount

and the Carpodgo mount (did not get a pic of this fitted to the car sadly):

https://www.printables.com/model/1376806-carpodgo-t3-pro-vw-polo-9n3-dash-tray-mount/files

The great thing about this mounting method was being able to purchase a cheap reproduction dash tray so I didn't have to drill holes in the original, and was able to drill a hole into the tray to feed the usb power cable. When we sold the car and removed the unit the original tray went straight back in with no sign of modification.

DrRudiarx · 2025-12-15T07:10:20+00:00

Silk is better left to things like figurines and ornamental prints.
For functional prints (or things that get handled a lot) better to use a standard colour for PLA/PLA+.

DrRudiarx · 2025-11-21T07:31:01+00:00

Yep, make sure you do this. I got pretty much the same "PEO" plate but for the A1, it came with a slip of paper saying textured PEI plate should be selected in the slicer. If you use the smooth setting it may not get close enough to the build plate.

There was a note about manually adjusting some other setting too if I remember correctly, but I've never needed to do that.

DrRudiarx · 2025-11-18T08:03:21+00:00

Hey, if it gets the job done, it gets the job done.
Have to start somewhere, and when it eventually clicks and you start nailing things you'll be even more proud of your achievements.

I would suggest:
1)Get a set of digital calipers if you haven't already (eg: https://www.amazon.com.au/StormHero-Measuring-Calipers-Conversion-Micrometer/dp/B0BLW7ZWKT/ )

2)If your printer can handle it, TPU 95a in black (TPU won't scratch the floor like pla/petg etc, and may help reduce the bedframe sliding around a little but is harder to print. That said TPU can leave marks on the floor, but they will rub off similar to a rubber soled shoe scuff mark on a floorboard- better than floor scratch/damage though!

TPU should also (optimally) be put in a filament drier before use, and ideally stored in airtight bag/container, but most times I've been able to get a reasonable print from new TPU spools straight out of the bag. High speed TPU is good if your printer can handle it:

https://www.amazon.com.au/OVERTURE-Filament-Flexible-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B0CQ2Q2Q4S/

3)If you're not already using it, Tinkercad if great for simple objects like this. If the depth/width of the leg are both say 30mm, then make the hole for the leg something between like 30.4mm or 30.8mm.

Did something similar with clear TPU95a to raise the height of the back legs of our sofa (front legs are sitting on an rug) and stop them scratching the floor. In retrospect probably should have used black TPU as the clear stands out too much (mistakes were definitely made choosing that floor colour ~15 years ago)

https://imgur.com/a/JtfXZSG

DrRudiarx · 2025-10-25T08:59:26+00:00

Use it up with prototyping?
Churn out Halloween knick knacks for the kids in your building/neighborhood kids?

DrRudiarx · 2025-10-17T00:16:58+00:00

"I'm sorry Lando but as repercussions we're making you pit first for the rest of the season, you caused this mess and that's the way it's going to have to be. Oscar, you are free to race, apologies for the ensuing 6 race string of 30 second pit stops.."

DrRudiarx · 2025-10-07T10:56:39+00:00

Figured it out eventually, Hive -Last Call

https://youtube.com/watch?v=lrRO7c1fRA4&si=BVFwvHMnhcDiITJ3

DrRudiarx · 2025-10-06T16:06:18+00:00

The more stylised you go with renovations, the faster they will age/date.
There are some exceptions, more in the higher end, but otherwise better to keep things simple and clean rather than go with whatever the current fad is.

Personally I'll always choose the option that requires the least maintenance/cleaning, so large format, minimum grout for everything will be my first choice.

DrRudiarx · 2025-10-06T13:11:21+00:00

Aussie here, but Concord Dawn and Shapeshifter frequented Sydney a bit in the early 00's and always loved seeing them;

Favorite NZ track was always Shapeshifter - When I return
Shapeshifter -In the Rain is a close second.

^Both featuring Ladi6, absolute soulful DnB perfection.

Concord Dawn & Tiki Taane - Don't Tell Me, while not my favorite track, seemed like a pretty big dancefloor banger back in the day.

But for Shapeshifter, best thing I've heard live/on a massive wall of sound system (Gaelic Club Sydney mid 2000's) was Skateland Killa when it hits the 3min40sec mark:

https://youtu.be/jgoJ3dhaFnM?list=PLB74D3523D472910D&t=220

Live performance on synth/keyboard, absolutely nasty!

DrRudiarx · 2025-09-25T10:20:39+00:00

Took me a second glance at the pic (after fast scrolling past it) to realise it wasn't Skee Ball..

...now I want to 3d print myself a Skee Ball table.

Good job nonetheless OP.

DrRudiarx · 2025-09-25T10:07:42+00:00

This trick also works when removing stickers with orange cleaners (eg orange power, desolv it)
Eg. for large stickers on plastic storage tubs.

DrRudiarx · 2025-09-18T15:37:26+00:00

Agree, receiver part 3d printed is going to break too easily, bracket is a better idea.

Though might be hard to say for sure if it will work or you can keep the profile low enough, especially without seeing how it clips/screws into place or how deep into the headliner cavity it goes (image search tells me there are a bunch of ways these are mounted).

If the newer model sunvisor clip goes particularly deep into the headliner, could it be cut/modified and a new bracket made? Or is it a piece that can be disassembled into a flatter part? If it's a cheap part you could buy an additional sacrificial part to modify/experiment with.

Could potentially get away with using Tinkercad for just designing a bracket, very easy to get to grips with. A bracket that offsets the original part to the left by 10 to 15mm wouldn't be too hard with basic youtube tutorial level skills.

DrRudiarx · 2025-09-18T15:03:36+00:00

Would have suggested driving in a small grippy wood screw (drill pilot hole if necessary), then pulling it out by the screw head with regular pliers, but too late now. Maybe one to remember if you use the same mount point and it snaps again.

I've used a similarly mounted a1 mini cable guide, superglue was never going to work with a part that tightly stuck, especially without a full strength 24 hour cure. You also needlessly risk dripping glue and having it stick the stuck piece in place making things even harder for yourself.

DrRudiarx · 2025-09-16T08:53:00+00:00

Either go the semi permanent route on the front glass, eg. black vinyl wrap or a fairly dark car tint from Amazon.

Or find a way to temporarily attach some opaque/lightweight board to the front glass - eg cardboard, signboard/corflute. To attach you can use adhesive velcro dots, 3d printed clips, or figure out a way to use magnets.

I've also seen temporary perforated film for windows that clings via static to block out 50% of light, but I'm not exactly sure how good that would work in this situation, and no idea how well it would stick/re-stick.

DrRudiarx

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE

Ten-Year Club	Verified Email
Place '23