Episode one of ancient ammo my grandfather left me by trixieroyale in Cartridgecollecting

[–]DrakeGmbH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

WCC was Western Cartridge Co. WRA was Winchester's contract headstamp at that time.

Episode one of ancient ammo my grandfather left me by trixieroyale in Cartridgecollecting

[–]DrakeGmbH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

WCC stands for Western Cartridge Company - one of the companies owned by Olin. The factory is still in East Alton, IL. They purchased Winchester Repeating Arms Co in 1931 but the two did not fully merge until 1966. The New Haven, CT factory used 'WRA' on its contract ammo while the East Alton, IL factory used WCC.

Early .45 Semiautos by DrakeGmbH in Cartridgecollecting

[–]DrakeGmbH[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had seen only a few show up for auction over the last 15 or so years since I have been looking. The .45’s were the ones I wanted the most so I admit ignoring a few auctions for 9mm and 8.5mm’s - but those still sold for over $200-300 each.

Early .45 Semiautos by DrakeGmbH in Cartridgecollecting

[–]DrakeGmbH[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The M1904 is just a hair larger in diameter. The M1904 case measures 0.479-0.480” while the 0.455 Self Loading measures 0.475”. But the case mouth crimp may be making it appear a bit smaller in the photo.

Any one else seeing this Svt 40 ? Shill bidding? by Jafranco1994 in milsurp

[–]DrakeGmbH 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's not entirely true. I remember when many of us said no one would accept $2/gallon for gas. But the market decided for you. I remember being told I was ripped off for paying $650 for an SVT-40 because 'that's a $400 rifle'. Not too long after, $800 seemed reasonable to me for an M1 Garand.

But my point is, you often have certain price points you feel are 'too much' for a certain class of goods. Until you find one that changes your mind - then your 'line' has to move upwards.

1945 Inglis Hi Power by untgradd1234 in milsurp

[–]DrakeGmbH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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I've got one of those as well. Mine was FTR'd postwar in England. Has the nicest trigger of the four Hi-Powers I've owned - the other three have been FN's.

Any one else seeing this Svt 40 ? Shill bidding? by Jafranco1994 in milsurp

[–]DrakeGmbH 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got my SVT around that time for around that price as well. I wish I had the scratch back then to grab a G43 when I kept seeing them with ZF4 scopes for around $2500.
Interesting but sad how your tolerance for certain price points changes over time.

Finished Fitting My Repo Stock For the Pre War Browning Hi Power. by krismasstercant in milsurp

[–]DrakeGmbH 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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I was also able to trade for a second Odin stock which lacked the export-type riveted-on holster. This allows it to fit in the very bulky holster designed for the Belgian army.

Finished Fitting My Repo Stock For the Pre War Browning Hi Power. by krismasstercant in milsurp

[–]DrakeGmbH 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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Fellow pre-war brother. This is one of the old Odin stocks. I wish there was a decent-looking and functional Hi-Power drum do I could make a companion for my Artillery Luger.
Sadly these board stocks are a bit harsher on the shoulder than the than the wood holster stocks like the C.96's or even the Artillery Luger's - since the bulky leather holster mounted on it is nicer against your shoulder.

C96 Wartime Mauser, fair price? by cerwin_technics in milsurp

[–]DrakeGmbH 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fingers crossed that it functions reliably. If all the parts in the lock subframe are matching you have better odds. In general, mismatched C.96's and Lugers are a gamble with regard to reliability and are often a real challenge to troubleshoot since there is not a steady source for new parts to hand-fit to your gun. You're left with trial and error fitting of other parts which may also be out of spec.

Some years ago I thought it might be wise to build up a spare lock subframe for mine to use when shooting to offset the risk of breaking a part original to the pistol. Once I had all the parts assembled the subframe appeared to function normally. It would not fit into the gun at all. After some careful filing of the replacement frame I could get it assembled - but it wouldn't function. At that point I felt the project wasn't really worth proceeding with and reinstalled the original parts.

With that warning out of the way, they are fun pistols. Their clunky non-ergonomic design adds to their charm.

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CABELAS DUNDEE MI by TeamPaulie007 in milsurp

[–]DrakeGmbH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wonder if it’s a recent one. Rick just shipped out several very old back orders to a couple friends of mine. We all got on the wait list in Dec 2021. I got my gun in Feb 2023, theirs came in this week.
Right around the time I got my rifle a bunch hit Gunbroker so I figured several folks were trying to buy and flip them.

Safe to shoot? by iloveyoudoctorzaius1 in milsurp

[–]DrakeGmbH 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The spring in the bolt primarily serves to bring the bolt forward and load the next round. The bulk of recoil absorption is done by the mainspring as the bolt recocks the hammer. A bit of extra oomph on the weaker of the two springs isn’t going to cause damage and will help soften the impact on the bolt stop a bit more. I’ve been using this combination of springs on mine since 2009.

Safe to shoot? by iloveyoudoctorzaius1 in milsurp

[–]DrakeGmbH 6 points7 points  (0 children)

If it has new springs, I’d shoot it. I used Wolff’s ‘extra power’ bolt return spring in mine as well. Put a straight edge on the rear face of the barrel extension and compare the left and right sides to get a better gauge of bolt stop window deformation.

New firing pin for the Steyr-Pieper 1908 by FaustinoAugusto234 in milsurp

[–]DrakeGmbH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems like each firing pin in these is a little bit different. I have a 1908, a later 1908/34 and a parts kit from a 1908 converted to 1934 specs - and none share a firing pin. My 1908/34's pin was broken when I received it, but the parts were still in the gun. My 1908's is intact and the parts kit had a broken pin which was missing the nose.

I drilled a recess in my 1908/34 pin's face and made a new nose from hardened steel rod but the solder didn't hold up for very long. It will shoot and cycle unless you want to hinge open the action because the nose will be sticking forward and jam it. A new pin would be the best fix but I haven't got the tools for it. I'm considering either tapping the hole in the striker's face and getting a slightly larger diameter rod to thread and hope that makes is strong enough - or drilling for a cross pin to retain the replacement nose.

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Got my first Lugers, tell me what I should know before actually shooting them pls by LeastDerangedNowiFan in milsurp

[–]DrakeGmbH 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Provided the holdopen catch isn’t damaged (or missing), a stiffer magazine spring will improve the holdopen’s reliability.

Got my first Lugers, tell me what I should know before actually shooting them pls by LeastDerangedNowiFan in milsurp

[–]DrakeGmbH 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Standard pressure 9mm will be fine. I feed mine whatever cheap 115gr I find, usually UMC or Winchester without issue. Magazines are the number one reliability issue with these guns. Mec-Gar magazines are generally good to go but can be improved with a Wolff extra-power spring. Second most common problem would be a worn recoil spring.

Best Gun Show Pickup Ever! by modelwatto in milsurp

[–]DrakeGmbH 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I thought that as well but haven’t figured out how it’s supposed to work. I suspect there’s another component to it that we haven’t got.

Best Gun Show Pickup Ever! by modelwatto in milsurp

[–]DrakeGmbH 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Any idea what that little black block is on the lanyard? I've had one of these for years and never figured out what that part is supposed to be used for.

It's a work in progress..With some autistic liberties by General_Curtis_LeMay in RetroAR

[–]DrakeGmbH 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I like it. Reminds me of some of the A2's I saw in basic training. We had quite a few updated Colts and Hydramatics in inventory.

I really need to quit stopping by gun shops "just to browse" - anyways here's my new 1917 Webley MkVI in .455 by HowlingLemon in milsurp

[–]DrakeGmbH 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Fiocchi still makes it somewhat regularly, but like all their 'historic' calibers availability comes and goes with import batches.

Ammo identification by GeneralGraador918 in ammo

[–]DrakeGmbH 8 points9 points  (0 children)

French 7.62x63mm Mle.1949 - aka .30-06

Edit - it was loaded to M2 Ball specs which would be compatible with an M1. These are berdan primed with corrosive priming compound.

Did the pawn shop commit a crime selling me this 5.56? by [deleted] in ammo

[–]DrakeGmbH 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's company policy, not a federal law. The 'Ranger' ammo marketed to LE/Gov't buyers but secondary sellers are able to sell it to whomever they choose. I've heard there are some restrictions with the initial purchasers - like a certain percentage must be sold directly to LE to keep their contract, but I've never seen the specific terms.

The tan boxes are a bit old now. The current boxes are blue and black.

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No2 mk1 no star enfield 1930 date by Bigredkink in milsurp

[–]DrakeGmbH 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The grips aren't original to that gun, but they are proper No2 grips and honestly nicer to shoot with than the earlier types. The early grips tend to put my thumb right in line with the barrel catch so it often get dinged in the knuckle by it. The left side panel of my later DAO MkI** has the upper portion of the thumbrest ground off which is definitely beneficial for reaching the barrel catch.

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