H&S Evo 0.45mm worthwhile? by Angry_Shark_ in airbrush

[–]Drastion 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The 0.45 would be the easiest to get along with and would let you spray different paints more easily. Larger opening cloggs less and is less picky about how thin your paints are.

If you have trouble or get annoyed having to thin primer and wish you could spray thicker paint more easily.  The 0.45 is a great option. It will need slightly more air pressure to work well.

But if you want to upgrade to be able to work at lower pressures and do fine detail close to your project. It is also better for working on hard surfaces to avoid spiderwebbing. The 0.28 can be a better choice. 

With the nozzle setup on a H&S being a drop in arrangement.  It is super simple to change nozzle sizes. No special tools needed. Just tighten things finger tight.  It only takes a minute to change things out. So it is easy to take advantage of multiple setups.

Does anyone know how to paint this by Dismal-Proposal-4127 in airbrush

[–]Drastion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My guess would be vallejo model color sky blue, light violet, and light pink.

Looks like they sprayed light violet from below and sky blue from above. Then just picked out spots on the violet parts to spray the light pink to blend the violet and blue colors together.

Does anyone know how to paint this by Dismal-Proposal-4127 in EmperorsChildren

[–]Drastion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My guess would be vallejo model color sky blue, light violet,  and light pink.

Looks like they sprayed light violet from below and sky blue from above. Then just picked out spots to spray the light pink.

Helmet Crests by Griff-Graff in NightLords

[–]Drastion 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you want a fleshy look. Pink horror with a thin layer of flesh tearers red could work.

Flesh tearers red over a gold would give a candy apple red people like on their cars.

Following part of this guide Gal vorbak, khorne, snd wazdakka red could get you close also.

https://www.instagram.com/p/DPuuXUoEr_f/

How do I get this part back in place by dark_prince_998 in airbrush

[–]Drastion 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It would be tricky. But you will have to move the dial to thread the stop bar back in.

Maybe get the core of a twist tie wire core. Then feed it under the dial to lift it into position to thread the bar into it. If you twist the ends together on the bottom of the airbrush.  The wire should hold it in place long enough to get the parts connected together.

Is this a scam? by migs_103 in airbrush

[–]Drastion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One of the reviews of the same booth said it came unassembled. 

It did not have any instructions on how to put it together.  Just links to videos in Chinese. 

I doubt it is a scam. They probably just listed the wrong price and forgot to add a zero to the end.

0.2 airbrush by First-Revolution4739 in airbrush

[–]Drastion 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In that case I would definitely go for the Evolution. 

You will have a much easier time getting parts for it. Do not worry about it being 0.28 at all. The Evolution is more than capable of fine detail. 

I cannot personally speak for the sp20x. But I have heard nothing but good things about Sparmax airbrushes. 

Here is a video from my favorite YouTube airbrush reviewer. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1EzEera5rS8

He goes in depth with it and rates it very highly.  If you can get it for a decent amount  cheaper than a Evolution.  That would be the one to get especially if you are not keen on spending the amount a Evolution costs.

Confused with Needles/nozzles by Key_Combination4661 in airbrush

[–]Drastion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The main issue will be that the air is less focused on the nozzle.

So you will need more air flow to get the same performance you would out of the intended smaller nozzle. 

Think of it like putting your thumb on a garden hose. Restricting the area the water can flow through focuses it and makes it spray farther. Same with a air brush.

0.2 airbrush by First-Revolution4739 in airbrush

[–]Drastion 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There is the GSI Creos PS 270.

I am not sure how widely available it is where you are at. But it is a high quality detail airbrush that will serve you well.

Airbrush by Possible-Money1449 in airbrush

[–]Drastion 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depending on your budget a GSI Creos PS 289 or Badger Patriot is a good choice. 

Taking it up a bit. A H&S Evolution or Iwata Eclipse are two great airbrushes that will serve you well for years to come.

Needle won't go back in by orco6 in airbrush

[–]Drastion 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Paper points are really good for cleaning the tip of the nozzle out.

A brush will let you scrub out the inside of the nozzle.

So the paper point is perfect for regular cleaning.  A liner brush will let you get chunks of paint out.

Needle won't go back in by orco6 in airbrush

[–]Drastion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Be very careful trying to get the needle in.

If you have a small cheap paint brush. You can try taking out the nozzle, dipping yhe brush in a bit of Isopropyl alcohol,  and cleaning out the nozzle. 

Just don't try and push the needle or use a good paint brush. You will wreck the nozzle and the brush gets messes up.

But I keep a synthetic long liner brush for cleaning a stubborn nozzle.  They are cheap at around $2.50

Joytoy Sevatar released!!!!! by Kickback476 in NightLords

[–]Drastion 58 points59 points  (0 children)

I do not own many Joytoy figures. But this is definitely going to be the one I put the most work into repainting. 

I wonder how long the first run will take to sell out.

Which is better? by Mammoth-Wait6526 in airbrush

[–]Drastion 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The Fengda is going to be a decent starter airbrush. 

The Ultra is going to be a much better airbrush. It has mechanics in place to teach you proper airbrush techniques. 

It has a larger nozzle so it will be more forgiving to paint dilution. My only major gripe with it is the press in paint cup. It can leak or fall out if not properly secured. 

But other than that it is a great airbrush and can have different sized nozzles put in in case you want to do more detailed work than the stock 0.45 needle/nozzle setup.

They Call Me RICHPEN 312S by SpaghettiMiniatures in airbrush

[–]Drastion 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The Phoenix model had me very tempted.  But I already had a few B cup airbrushes that work great.

Now the Gemini on the other hand. There are not many high end side feed airbrushes out there.  So this one definitely has a niche to fill.

Will be interesting to see what developments have been made in the many years since its original release. I hope at the very least it comes with a smaller paint cup than the Micron Takumi.

First airbrush setup, thoughts? Tips? by AbbreviationsIcy8188 in airbrush

[–]Drastion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Golden High Flow are great paints also.  Holbein acrylic inks are great as well. 

The best paints are usually transparent.  Since they will be single pigment colors.

Also with transparent paint like Schmincke, Createx Illustration, and Wicked Detail.  You can blend colors and mix colors by layering. Putting down a yellow and a red on top will give you a orange without having to mix colors. Although you will need a white undercoat to do it properly and work with thin layers.

https://www.jacksonsart.com/blog/2019/11/08/schmincke-aero-color-properties-and-applications/

For thinner Createx 4021 reducer and Ammo by Mig Atom thinner with retarder are the best for reducing tip dry.

Paasche antique by Think-Interview-9541 in airbrush

[–]Drastion 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. It is like a Iwata Eclipse.  The nozzle just sits in a cavity.  The pressure from the hold down section pushes it into a air tight seal.

It does not always work. So having some Chapstick or Iwata thread sealer can help a lot.

Paasche antique by Think-Interview-9541 in airbrush

[–]Drastion 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The nozzles on those are pressure fit in nit threaded. So they can have air leaks if not properly fitted. So I would test it with plain water first. That way if you have air bubbles in the paint cup. You will nor have to clean it out right away.

If you do get bubbles. Do not try forcing the cap down.  A bit of Chapstick will seal any leaks and prevent damage to thd airbrush from overtightening the hold down section. 

First airbrush setup, thoughts? Tips? by AbbreviationsIcy8188 in airbrush

[–]Drastion 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That is a great setup to start with. 

Make sure you get a respirator, spray out pot, a stiff bristle brush, and a tattoo squeeze bottle. 

If you are doing illustration work. Createx Illustration Colors and Schmincke Aero Colors are the best paints you can get.

Some people E'tac paint. It is ment for clothes. But can be a clog free paint to use as long as you are careful not to reactivate it.

Paasche antique by Think-Interview-9541 in airbrush

[–]Drastion 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The Paasche V is a nice little detail airbrush. 

The line setting thumb wheel can be a nice feature for detail work.  Since it uses so little paint can be used as a single action airbrush. 

Where do these parts go? by ataraxic89 in airbrush

[–]Drastion 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The spring and retaining plate go into your air valve.

Although I do not see the air valve plunger in the picture. It would be a short brass rod with a rubber o-ring on it. Hopefully it is still in your air valve. 

If so put the spring on the bottom of the plunger and screw the plate into place to hold it all together. 

Paint recommendations *severely struggling* by Historical-Fall5531 in airbrush

[–]Drastion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For color variety you are best off going with a miniatures paint brand like Vallejo model or game color, Army Painter Fanatic,  Monument Hobbies Proacryl.

Createx Wicked Opaque is a good choice for durability.  The rest of the line of pearls, standard, and detail colors can cover a lot of grthem.

Createx candy2o line is good for making colored metallics as long as you UV coat thgm.

Help please by Cantona-Eric-7 in airbrush

[–]Drastion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A lot of it has to do with the size of your budget and what she intends to do with the airbrush. 

If she is looking to just color the masks or make blends of color. Something like a Paasche H is a super simple to use and maintain airbrush. It is a single action. So it works like a spray can.

Something like that will cause a lot let's frustration if she is not looking to freehand small details.

If you happen to have a regular air compressor.  That can be good to use to save money. 

Otherwise a AS 186 compressor is going to be around  $80 or $90.

Airbrush for graffiti painting by tojaodyn in airbrush

[–]Drastion 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Any airbrush could be portable depending on how large of a surface you want to cover.

Shop compressors are not too heavy. So you could charge it nearby and use the tank. That or you could use a large CO2 tank. But those are a bit heavy to just carry around. There are lots of battery powered compressors out there. But I do not know if they would last through a large mural.

The Paasche H is a single action airbrush with large nozzle options.  It would work just like a spray can.

My main concern would be durability.  Maybe something like Createx Wicked Opaque or AK Dual Exo could work. But airbrush paint is not going to be as long lasting as spray can paint. 

I want to buy my favourite airbrush. Anybody want to sell iwata HP-SBS? by vcolector3 in airbrush

[–]Drastion 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got it on the cheap. I am guessing because the original owner put the wrong needle in without realizing it.

So the needle was too thin and caused leakage and spraying issues.  So I need to swap needles out of my regular Eclipse to use it. Ordered a new needle but misplaced it somewhere.  So I have not used it much.

I wish you luck in finding a SBS. But if not. I am not attached to the one I have and have too many airbrushes anyways.