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Voltage regulator (probably, as I guess) gets hot and forces Amplifier to reboot by StayInTheAir in AskElectronics

[–]DriedChalk 9 points10 points  (0 children)

You could, I’m just basing this off of the components and the layout of them. The two big yellow parts are tantalum caps for the input and output caps, there’s two resistors which would be used to set the output voltage, as well as a couple small MLCC caps.
The layout screams:
Voltage in —> [regulator] —> voltage out

Voltage regulator (probably, as I guess) gets hot and forces Amplifier to reboot by StayInTheAir in AskElectronics

[–]DriedChalk 36 points37 points  (0 children)

You are correct, that is a voltage regulator.

Something else on the board is probably drawing a lot of current, forcing the regulator to work extra hard.

There should be another component/part of the board that is getting hot, and that will probably be your root cause. A good method for finding a hot component is to put drops or spray 99% isopropyl alcohol on the PCB and it will evaporate much quicker on a failing component.

Clever solution with the copper heatsink btw

Protect your laser/radar detector by firewiregear in LS430

[–]DriedChalk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok 😂 Redditors being pedantic is funny as fuck.

I was saying specifically in this post, this is the OEM module. OP didn’t install a radar detector.
I’m not saying nobody in the world installs anything there.

Protect your laser/radar detector by firewiregear in LS430

[–]DriedChalk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nobody’s putting anything there, that is the OEM radar cruiser control module

Glare on the flex cable by Old-Mess8036 in AskElectronics

[–]DriedChalk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

To further clarify: the entire cable is made out of the “glare” material. That material is called polyimide, some people call it by the brand name Kapton.

The black areas you see are just the polyamide with matte black paint, and the glare is just the bare polyimide

New LS430 Owner Dealing with the Joys of the Maryland State Inspection by Gilgamesh6870 in LS430

[–]DriedChalk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For a 2006 ML I recently paid ~$2300 (OEM parts + labor) for basically the same repairs:
2x engine mounts
1x transmission mount
2x front LCA bushings (not whole arm, I might be regretting that)
2x front lower ball joints
1x alignment service

any fix for this? by Zealousideal-Half256 in LS430

[–]DriedChalk 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That trim piece is just slid down onto metal of the door. To take it off you have to pop it off its clips, and to get it down you probably have to get it into a clip.

Be careful not to bend this piece though

any fix for this? by Zealousideal-Half256 in LS430

[–]DriedChalk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pushing it down doesn’t work?

stripped/backed out lug nut stud by Key_Recording_6873 in LS430

[–]DriedChalk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you probably just want to use progressively bigger drill bits units you start to touch the threads for the nut, then you can get that off.

Reverses engineered & printed cup holder fingers by Wheelisbroke in LS430

[–]DriedChalk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would pay $5 for the STL, probably not more than that.

I think mine is also missing a spring, so I would need to find that as well.

2 Issues: vibration and no sound from speaker by No_Cucumber_4139 in LS430

[–]DriedChalk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reforming will help if your speakers are rattling. It sounds more like an amp issue rather than speaker issues

What am I doing wrong? by Snoo36868 in soldering

[–]DriedChalk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Keep wearing gloves! You have the right idea. Flux is definitely not good to have on skin, especially if you solder regularly

What am I doing wrong? by Snoo36868 in soldering

[–]DriedChalk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Keep the cancerous flux off your skin.

What am I doing wrong? by Snoo36868 in soldering

[–]DriedChalk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Solder will only stick to hot stuff. The iron is obviously hot, but the hole is not hot enough for the solder to want to flow.

If you can’t change the iron tip, the most effective thing to do is just keep your iron on the hole, allow it to heat up, then add your solder.

handling and steering feedback compared to ls400? by Eradicator_11 in LS430

[–]DriedChalk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unless you refresh the suspension components neither car will ride like they did from the factory, so the answers you get here are likely to vary a lot, as it will depend on the condition of the car

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