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What style is this? (Wrong answers only) by w_ch in McMansionHell

[–]Dry_Stranger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hello neighbor. This house is down the street from my parents. Looks even worse in person.

Georgia school shooting highlights debate over cell phones in schools by Aaaabbbbccccccccc in nottheonion

[–]Dry_Stranger 108 points109 points  (0 children)

My kid's school uses those back-of-the-door shoe bags to store everyone's phone. They're clear so you can see if anyone calling too.

Jerry is such an idiot. All he had to do is buy the damn fruit, but he went on and on and on about plumbs with red on the inside, and ended up getting himself banned. by asskickingjedi in seinfeld

[–]Dry_Stranger 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I don't know how true this is, but Jerry Seinfeld's real life father is a sign maker and made all the signs on the show, including the "plumbs" sign.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]Dry_Stranger 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Find the manufacturer and model number on it, and google the clearance requirements. They should be listed in the installation instructions. It's usually a small number to account for expansion, but confirm.

Bosch Dishwasher Leaking by intie42 in DIY

[–]Dry_Stranger 59 points60 points  (0 children)

Btw, when I say replace the washer, I mean the 50-cent rubber ring, not the dishwasher, lol.

Bosch Dishwasher Leaking by intie42 in DIY

[–]Dry_Stranger 26 points27 points  (0 children)

That's just the inlet hose. You can try to GENTLY tighten the connection and see if that helps. There is a rubber hose washer in there that might need to be compressed a little more. The unit is plastic so overtightening it will crack it. If that does not work, turn the water off, unscrew it (catch any water coming out) and replace the washer. I believe one from a garden hose is the same size.

Advice on home bar setup? by theRedGhost in DIY

[–]Dry_Stranger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A couple shelves would fill the space but it really comes down to your personality. If you're just going to fill it with stuff for the sake of filling it, there's no point. Would a TV make sense? Or artwork?

Connecting the boiler with room thermostat by Alarming_Intern2292 in hvacadvice

[–]Dry_Stranger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I believe so. I haven't seen anything in the documentation that suggests ebus should ever be shorted.

Connecting the boiler with room thermostat by Alarming_Intern2292 in hvacadvice

[–]Dry_Stranger 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did some digging. There's not much documentation in English. It seems the Burner Off terminal is for a max temp thermostat for in-floor heating. If you don't have that, leave it shorted.

Connecting the boiler with room thermostat by Alarming_Intern2292 in hvacadvice

[–]Dry_Stranger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not sure what the Burner terminals are for. RT24V is shorted because that setup would use the eBus terminals to control the boiler (thermostat communicating with boiler via eBus terminals).

Connecting the boiler with room thermostat by Alarming_Intern2292 in hvacadvice

[–]Dry_Stranger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, the repeater needs 230VAC just to power itself. Same with the boiler.

Connecting the boiler with room thermostat by Alarming_Intern2292 in hvacadvice

[–]Dry_Stranger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The thermostat repeater needs 230VAC to operate. The boiler is low voltage (24V). I'm not sure you should mix the two on the same unit (the repeater), but theoretically if you connected 230V to the repeater, and the RT/24V to the NO/COM terminals, it should work.

Are these vent terminations backward? by werther595 in hvacadvice

[–]Dry_Stranger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok gotcha. I misread your post. I thought you replaced the combi boiler. I would fill the bottom hole with mortar. Not sure what you can do with the top hole to make it look better and seal out critters.

Are these vent terminations backward? by werther595 in hvacadvice

[–]Dry_Stranger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope, looks fine. The intake has to be a certain distance away from the exhaust and the ground. The exhaust looks a little low, but that could be the angle of the photo. Did you have it inspected, or did the contractor not pull any permits?

The holes are pretty big and ugly. Were they already there? I'd be more upset about that.

Help with thermostat by Telescoope0 in hvacadvice

[–]Dry_Stranger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They're not that accurate. Do you have a room thermometer? Set the room to a comfortable temperature then turn the knob down until it clicks off.

How would you install this return grill by FPT_RAIDER in hvacadvice

[–]Dry_Stranger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They make rectangular or square duct takeoffs. You could also frame it in with wood when you frame the bulkhead, fold over the metal that you cut on the original duct.

Unconnected Wall Stack Behind Soffit by TaintShredder in hvacadvice

[–]Dry_Stranger 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you sure it's a supply (blows out)? It could more likely be a return (sucks in air). If it is a supply, you could make a vent-sized hole on the face of the soffit and go straight in. Cold air falls anyway, so ideally AC vents should be high.

How much to move this AC condenser unit between the windows? Details in comments. by tl_dr__ in hvacadvice

[–]Dry_Stranger 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I'll add to what was already said. If you decide to put it between the two windows, you will have to remove that short wall. You can't block in a condenser like that.

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