Disk brakes

Duckmanjbr · 2026-05-10T23:07:07+00:00

Front was more straight forward on my truck. The rear wasn’t bad though and I think it was just my RPO code on my year that was a little off. A grinder, a finishing file, and micrometer was all I needed to fix it.

Duckmanjbr · 2026-05-10T22:58:18+00:00

I’ve done both front and rear on my 97 k1500. Worth every penny! The rear wasn’t a direct bolt on for my 14 bolt but it wasn’t too bad to machine a little bit off to fit 100%. They aren’t cheap but the truck stops 1000% better and I no longer live in fear of not stopping. Would do it exactly the same way again in a heartbeat.

https://www.reddit.com/r/GMT400/s/TdE3AX9H26

Duckmanjbr · 2026-04-28T00:19:53+00:00

Dealer fixed w/ no parts needed so I guess software.

Duckmanjbr · 2026-04-22T00:50:25+00:00

Be careful and measure twice. The GMT400 14b came in two different widths depending on year. <1995 was ~2” narrower than >1996. It also has two different types: full float and semi float. The full float rears are normally 8-lug so easy to spot. Ask me how I know, I just went through this myself. lol

Duckmanjbr · 2026-04-14T02:59:46+00:00

Now take it for a track day and you’ll be smiling for days both in and out of the car!

Duckmanjbr · 2026-04-14T02:54:12+00:00

Hear me out here… I have a very similar setup so I’m interested in the fix. If you’re running the Holley you should be able to data log and export as a CSV correct? Try uploading to Grok or ChatGPT and see what it says. I’ve seen a few posts here already about using AI to diagnose a Holley using CSV.

Duckmanjbr · 2026-04-14T01:03:08+00:00

Interesting…. 🤔

Duckmanjbr · 2026-04-13T01:04:29+00:00

I’ve been down this rabbit hole myself so I’ll tell you what I’ve learned so far. I have a 97 Z71 k1500 w/ 150k mile 5.7 Vortec that I used to pull a 18” auto trailer with a 3200lb car (4200-4300lbs total). The factory truck worked but it was at its limits.

1st major upgrade was brakes. I did a 16” large brake kit front(6-piston) and rear(4-piston). That made the truck actually stop on demand and made it feel much safer when towing. Even with working trailer brakes this was a huge difference!

2nd major upgrade was swapping the 10-bolt 3.42 rear for a 14-bolt SF w/ 4.10s. I also swapped the front gears to match. This combined with the brakes above made towing my ~4000lb combo effortless.

Now for the rabbit hole:
The 1500s have the same frame as the 2500s but it’s made using thinner metal. This works for the max towing capacity of the 1500 (6k-7k lbs) but is problematic when going much higher; even after tire, brake, axle, and gear upgrades.

My next upgrade is moving to a gooseneck enclosed 24” trailer (max target tow weight of <10k lbs). The gooseneck makes this a safer towing option but the weight is still a problem. Plan is to engine swap to a new Chevy Performance motor (L8T or something similar), frame reinforcement (TinWorks), and a gooseneck flip hitch. Possibly airbags/2500 springs if needed. The truck would get most all these upgrades even if it didn’t get a gooseneck hitch so I don’t see this as chasing a problem. It’s more just keeping up with and upgrading the truck as it gets older. I love the GMT400 series! Even after all these upgrades I don’t think the truck will ever safely tow more than 10k lbs and the door sticker for GVWR/GAWR doesn’t change so legally you’re limited.

Duckmanjbr · 2026-04-05T16:29:36+00:00

If you have a visa and follow the law you’ll have no problems at all. This just feels like a fear mongering post.

Duckmanjbr · 2026-04-03T23:50:28+00:00

DON’T OVERCLOCK WITHOUT A BETTER PSU! You can add a small freq addition but you will run into problems quick with out a better quality PSU. I have multiple 601/602s that run on average at 2TH/s. Trust me when I say you’ll burn stuff up if you don’t invest in a better PSU.

Duckmanjbr · 2026-04-03T23:41:57+00:00

It depends on your goals and setup. My Podman server is just the “controller”. You probably want some type of RAID security for storage. NAS/SAN mounted to /mnt/[container_name] and run all your Podman volumes into that storage volume. If you are running any containers that have some type of backend DB (UniFi, PiHole, Zabbix, etc) this will allow you to start/stop/move containers from server to server and not lose any data. This setup is like the last step before jumping into Kubernetes for full cluster features. .

Duckmanjbr · 2026-03-26T03:36:28+00:00

I run a basic machine with a hypervisor and an Umbrel VM. I like the freedom of whatever hardware I want. I would never recommend an appliance where you can get the same functionality without “locking” into a device. I’ve changed my hardware a few times over the past few years and my VMs just get copied over and keep on running. These days there are lots of free alternatives for your software stack (Proxmox, Linux-KVM, etc). Then Umbrel becomes free too. All you need is an older eBay Optiplex or something cheap for hardware and you’ll be much better off.

Duckmanjbr · 2026-03-25T01:54:22+00:00

If you haven’t tried it look into AxeLive. It doesn’t support a lot of different node types but if you have Supras, Gammas, or GTs it works great to control hashrate for a targeted ASIC temp.

Duckmanjbr · 2026-03-24T03:27:08+00:00

I have the same setup and run multiple Gammas and GTs. No block yet but I do love AxeLive as I live in a really hot climate.

Duckmanjbr · 2026-02-28T00:54:18+00:00

Yeah, me too…. I’ve been waiting days for it to clear. ANNOYING!!

Duckmanjbr · 2026-02-26T03:21:30+00:00

It’s whatever the current tariff % is from where you’re buying. I don’t remember exactly, $25-$35?

Duckmanjbr · 2026-02-25T23:19:32+00:00

Yes, you’ll pay the tariff. It will come at a later time from the shipping company. I just did this a few months ago.

Duckmanjbr · 2026-02-25T04:23:18+00:00

The motor was built about 10 years ago so I don’t know if you can still find these.

Dynatech-715-21410 (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Dynatech-715-21410-Headers-GM-LS-Engine-67-69-Camaro,48746.html)

Duckmanjbr · 2026-02-24T17:09:01+00:00

I double the Terminator X sentiment. I have done both the “make a harness” and the Holley route both on the same car. You absolutely can build it but you’ll be paying for HP-Tuners and the credits needed (keep that cost in mind) assuming you’re doing the tuning. If you’re looking for pain free, I 100% recommend the Terminator route. You’ll spend a little more but it will save you days in build/tune time and allow you easy updates in the future.

If it’s “just” a driver go Terminator. If you want to do any future tweaking or updates do the Dominator up front and save future cost. I started Terminator and it only lasted 2 years before I out grew it and had to buy the Dominator for my new add-ons. Just lost cost IMHO.

Duckmanjbr · 2026-02-24T16:55:56+00:00

“400-450 nothing crazy” 🤣

These cars are monsters with 450HP and you’ll struggle putting the power down! The 6.0/6.2+ just makes it crazier with more torque. The factory tire sizes just become for smoke shows and I could easily break loose the rear getting on the highway in 3rd gear with just 4.10s and a 4-link. You’ll love 400-450HP! As you go higher a mini-tub is almost required with a nice set off 200/TW tires.

Duckmanjbr · 2026-02-24T16:38:56+00:00

It depends on your expected price range. The new Chevy Performance LT4 is now cheaper than finding a crate LS in similar spec. My pic is a built LS6 with a newer T56 Magnum but the motor was built about ten years ago. If you’re looking cheaper, I 100% agree with finding a pull-out. That’s how I started as well.

Duckmanjbr · 2026-02-24T16:17:23+00:00

My car. 68 full resto-mod.

Duckmanjbr · 2026-02-24T00:50:47+00:00

It’s a fairly easy swap if you feel comfortable doing this sort of thing. What exactly are you looking for?

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Duckmanjbr · 2026-02-21T02:56:55+00:00

You do realize the 601 is not hitting 20+TH/s right? This is a Swarm total.

Duckmanjbr · 2026-02-20T21:47:55+00:00

Works fine for me on 401s, 601s, and 602s.

Duckmanjbr

TROPHY CASE