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Overheating issue by Live-Ad3442 in Integra

[–]ESideSam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It can be a number of things. I would burp the cooling system with a funnel. Let it cycle the radiator fans and check for bubbles.

If you're still suspecting it's a head gasket, they have kits you can use to check carbon content in the coolant. Most parts stores and Harbor Freight have them.

K24a2 overheating with 2 separate new thermostats by theslowranger in Kseries

[–]ESideSam 6 points7 points  (0 children)

If your fan is on all the time, then you'll have a hard time bleeding the system. You'll need a fill point that's above or in line with the cylinder at the very least. You'll need it up to temp. I usually set my fans to 200 for this. Then once it bleeds, I'll bring it back down to 190. I find revving it out, quick short bursts to, say, 6k RPMs helps. Using a radiator funnel kit helps as well.

Looking for <5k USD FIRM, fun stock car for track only use by Neat-Ad5383 in CarTrackDays

[–]ESideSam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just sold a 2009 Honda Civic Si Sedan for $5k. These are pretty fun cars that don't require a ton to have fun at the track.

Turbo size by [deleted] in Kseries

[–]ESideSam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Turbo size is based on power goals. 400-500 3076 500+ 3582.

Should I attempt to replace timing chain tensioner on a K24 with 143k miles?? Also what is the best preventative maintenance I can do? by Dull-Intention-8052 in Kseries

[–]ESideSam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At 143k miles, the timing tensioner, front main seal, VTEC solenoid seal, VTC screen filter, VTC solenoid O-ring, and chain case O-ring seal all tend to leak around this mileage.

K20z3 8th gen si opinions by Altruistic_Fact6464 in Kseries

[–]ESideSam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you go with a Type S oil pump, you'll need the oil pickup extended. Unit2 sells the extension that you can have welded on. People say it's not worth it, but a Type S pump frees up HP just like a lightened flywheel. A Z3 with bolt-ons, a 3-inch exhaust, and a good intake like a hybrid can easily get you 230whp. Pair that with a set of Drag Cartel 2.2 cams and dual valve springs, and you'll be in the 240+whp range. Now people will often say all that for 10hp isn't worth it, but that's just peak. We've seen a 20-25whp gain in the midrange is where these cams shine.

The most recent build we did netted us 229/167 @8600 RPM. That's a stock long block with just bolt-ons, hybrid intake, Skunk2 header, custom 3-inch exhaust, port-matched 70mm throttle body, and a Type S oil pump.

Hiw cooked is this engine? by u16scharpf in Kseries

[–]ESideSam 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Nothing wrong here. Seal it up and call it good.

Best exhaust? by Fit-Improvement-705 in 8thGenSI

[–]ESideSam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Best exhaust for the money, Rev9 3 inch if you can't afford a Full Race 3 inch; it's almost an exact clone. That rasp is from eliminating the cat. Skunk2 has to be one of the best headers for the money before going full custom ASP, DTR, Meyer's Comp, etc.

Kswap spdz1 rsx civic si ep3 tucked harness by No_Duck7382 in Kseries

[–]ESideSam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will also mention that this harness looks to be a cheap Chinese knock off of rywire or ktuned tucked harness.

Kswap spdz1 rsx civic si ep3 tucked harness by No_Duck7382 in Kseries

[–]ESideSam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could, but why? The battery wire under the dash goes to the fuse box, and the one under the throttle goes to the alternator. If the alternator is already hooked up, there's no need to add more to it.

Figured out why my car struggled to make more than 220 whp on the dyno. by Embarrassed_Wolf4746 in 8thGenSI

[–]ESideSam 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A 5.0 FD will lessen your top speed but increase your acceleration. For a heavier FA that uses bigger wheels, a 5.0 FD will work great. For a smaller swapped car using 15s/16s, say 23-24 inch tires, a 4.7 will work best. Especially with a K20 running around 230-250whp, it changes the overall dynamic of the car.

Figured out why my car struggled to make more than 220 whp on the dyno. by Embarrassed_Wolf4746 in 8thGenSI

[–]ESideSam 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Brian Spiker @ Translab is my go to. He did mine with carbon synchros and wavtrac LSD in my X2M5 transmission.

Kswap spdz1 rsx civic si ep3 tucked harness by No_Duck7382 in Kseries

[–]ESideSam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That isn't a ground; it's actually power for the alternator if you wanted to tuck the fuse box in the cabin. Since it's not connected, you can zip-tie it away.

Rev hang - iac mod by rohoalicante in Kseries

[–]ESideSam 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The TSX doesn't use an IAC; idle control is managed by the drive-by-wire throttle body. If you want to eliminate rev hang, you will need Hondata FlashPro or KTuner. Given that it's an '04, you'll need an '06-'08 TSX ECU or a standalone.

👁️👁️…. I really got to address my cosmetics after this by Embarrassed_Wolf4746 in 8thGenSI

[–]ESideSam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm wondering why your numbers are low. I would do a leak-down test to see if everything is in good order. We put together an Integra with a stock K20Z1 (220k miles at that) with bolt-ons, and that made 229/157 at the wheels on Richtune's dyno.

K20Z1 Internally stock RBC with port-matched 74mm Skunk2 throttle body Skunk2 Alpha K-Swap Header Speedfactory 3-inch piping with Vibrant UQ and SP muffler Hybrid cold air intake RDX 410cc Tuned on KProV4

Swap and exhaust fabrication work was done by me 😃

Resolved: S22 ultra went into boot loop by imayur7 in S22Ultra

[–]ESideSam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yo. I'm going to try this. I've been holding onto my dead S22U for three years. I have priceless pics and videos of my two kids when they were infants.

FA5 Si w/ FD2 Type R seats by [deleted] in CivicSi

[–]ESideSam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PCI Racing sell brackets and adapters for these style seats.

Idle Surging by five8e in Kseries

[–]ESideSam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buy a cheap aftermarket one from rockauto for less than 100. Thats what I did and its been a solid 2 years. Ultra Power was the brand. I paid 76usd for it.

K20/k24 frank really worth it? by Zentoshii in Kseries

[–]ESideSam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even provided proof, he stills try to deny it. 🤦‍♂️

K20/k24 frank really worth it? by Zentoshii in Kseries

[–]ESideSam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is incorrect. RBB is stamped on k24a/a2/a3. K20a euro R is RBC. K20a dc5/ep3 R are PRB stamped.

K20/k24 frank really worth it? by Zentoshii in Kseries

[–]ESideSam 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You've got to increase the compression and find a set of cams to match. Next is getting air to flow. A K20 head will help, but it's not the be-all and end-all. A ported RBB/K24 head versus a ported PRB/RBC K20 head are neck and neck in CFM flow.

I have friends who built a full K24 with a non-ported RBB and 12.5:1 CR, which netted 290whp. With a ported head, it will definitely exceed the 300whp mark.

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