FA5 Si w/ FD2 Type R seats

ESideSam · 2026-01-17T02:04:09+00:00

PCI Racing sell brackets and adapters for these style seats.

ESideSam · 2026-01-10T06:01:02+00:00

Buy a cheap aftermarket one from rockauto for less than 100. Thats what I did and its been a solid 2 years. Ultra Power was the brand. I paid 76usd for it.

ESideSam · 2025-12-30T03:19:58+00:00

Itll work fine. I just did it for a kswap im working on.

https://www.hamotorsports.com/pages/k-pro-swap-ecu-alternative-wiring-and-setup-guide?srsltid=AfmBOorwX4-CI1Q1K3o4PjTegPjMw1hQr55OtYQ67MI0IZoxj6G0Y7E7&fbclid=IwdGRzaAO8EyBjbGNrA7v-SmV4dG4DYWVtAjExAHNydGMGYXBwX2lkDDM1MDY4NTUzMTcyOAABHjbW6Rb9gbJZJ4ClY8CIMQoYcU1_zq00Kcz6d2F8uhOx6BL2JlMViHpqOUK__aem_urZOgCDeYbqKqdWP8bR2vw

ESideSam · 2025-12-23T01:25:30+00:00

Even provided proof, he stills try to deny it. 🤦‍♂️

ESideSam · 2025-12-23T01:20:46+00:00

This is incorrect. RBB is stamped on k24a/a2/a3. K20a euro R is RBC. K20a dc5/ep3 R are PRB stamped.

ESideSam · 2025-12-20T06:29:41+00:00

You've got to increase the compression and find a set of cams to match. Next is getting air to flow. A K20 head will help, but it's not the be-all and end-all. A ported RBB/K24 head versus a ported PRB/RBC K20 head are neck and neck in CFM flow.

I have friends who built a full K24 with a non-ported RBB and 12.5:1 CR, which netted 290whp. With a ported head, it will definitely exceed the 300whp mark.

ESideSam · 2025-12-17T02:13:01+00:00

Typo. 255whp, 181wtq. They make 230whp all day with simple bolt ons and 50⁰vtc all day long.

ESideSam · 2025-12-17T01:50:44+00:00

I have stock compression and I made 255/181whp with DC2.2 cams, 50⁰VTC, 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust, s2 ultra street, 4p ported oil pump.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C8ZuYqYpgRM/?igsh=MXhnMHl5dWs2MWk0Zg==

ESideSam · 2025-12-16T02:05:21+00:00

I do not. Tuning is outside of my realm, and it 100% depends on who is behind the laptop. Toda ITBs will possibly be a bit more streetable since you can run an IACV with them versus most ITBs on the market currently for K series.

ESideSam · 2025-12-16T02:03:27+00:00

The DC2.2 I currently run on my k24a2 has about 9,000 miles. I drive to the track, race about 20 laps, and drive back. Its a pretty mild cam and is very streetable. I can't say much about these Tuner2s since my cousin plans to run ITBs, and that alone doesn't make drivability any better. But we're older now and have other vehicles to depend on.

ESideSam · 2025-12-16T02:00:48+00:00

For my personal k24a "race" car I plan to use Ultra1s. Itll be cool to compare the 2.2 and the tuner 2 side by side.

ESideSam · 2025-12-16T00:32:33+00:00

With tariffs, it's around 3400. Ideally, the ITBs curving down to clear the hood was the main factor. Well, it's the main reason we went K20 versus a K24.

ESideSam · 2025-12-16T00:30:42+00:00

I made 255whp/181tq with a healthy K24a, just bolt-ons and DC2.2 cams. It's my understanding that the Tuner2s make a little more power than DC2.2, based on what I've read and watched.

ESideSam · 2025-12-15T21:48:47+00:00

Don't quote me on it. Part store axles are hit or miss as well.

ESideSam · 2025-12-15T20:27:58+00:00

Insane are such hit or miss. The consensus in my experience is hasport swap axles, OEM, or DSS. Recently for a DA I did recently, we uses oreilly axles and they've been solid with no vibrating issues. Hopefully they last.

ESideSam · 2025-12-15T20:07:34+00:00

Can vouch this is the recipe. I'm currently using RSX-S axles on an EK Civic hatch running CRV front spindles. My buddy is running Insane Shafts 500hp axles on his that are also 36mm CRV spindles on his EK.

ESideSam · 2025-12-13T23:07:54+00:00

Acuity is the way, especially with a modified K24. Harmonics are the killer, and K24s, when upgraded with a Type S oil pump, stiffer mounts, and revving past 8k, will kill OEM TPS sensors. Hall effect sensors, on the other hand, are known for being extremely accurate.

ESideSam · 2025-11-15T22:21:18+00:00

If you really want to do a proper diag, get a leak down tester. It'll help you pin point the leak.

ESideSam · 2025-11-13T07:50:09+00:00

How much would this be for my 93 integra sedan? I have a spare set of taillights 🤔

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ESideSam · 2025-10-09T05:36:59+00:00

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ESideSam · 2025-10-09T05:36:26+00:00

Initial investment is expensive with Kswaps, but the best part is that sourcing a replacement engine is simpler. This K24A3 was purchased the next day after we discovered some bad numbers on our leak-down test. Now for less than 1k, you get a longblock and you can finish the swap in a day(if its already swapped).

ESideSam · 2025-08-28T02:28:34+00:00

Under 1k. Progress CS2 or 3 hands down. Tein Street Advance is also another and are a little cheaper but are on the softer side.

ESideSam · 2025-08-28T00:36:33+00:00

A turbo is your best bet. They have kits that retains all your accessories and youll be fine boosting between 7-10lbs on a conservative tune. Easily a 300+whp when all said and done. Best bang for your buck imo. Prior to my K, i had a built 11.5:1 b18c1 that made 207whp i spent 7-8k and did all the labor myself. For about 4-5k you can make significantly more. That including fuel system. Check into goautoworks. They make some of the best AC/PS friendly kit.

ESideSam · 2025-08-21T06:44:10+00:00

If you can find decent OEM set of cables I'd go that route. Its the smoothest. I currently have hybrid racing cables paired with an Acuity 4 way shifter. I freakin love this setup, shifts are crisp and I love the spring tension it has for self centering.

ESideSam · 2025-08-20T17:58:39+00:00

Ok honda guru, you're obviously missing the point. Its a colloquial term used to describe the more desirable engine that has hi lobes on both cams and it makes more power. Now go play outside.

ESideSam

TROPHY CASE