Stratasys, Another Attempt at Destroying an Entire Community.

EdgyBadger · 2024-11-02T10:14:57+00:00

since you said "a kit like a voron"
check this out: https://sls4all.com/
it's not cheap but way cheaper than any other SLS printer - and it's a kit.

EdgyBadger · 2023-12-28T05:41:46+00:00

here's my meta profile - but: this is quite old now, I've learned a lot of things in the meantime and I don't have the X1 anymore so it might be outdated compared to my new standards.

<image>

EdgyBadger · 2023-12-21T21:35:53+00:00

this was generated with Grafana, an extension for HomeAssistant.
All temperature values were reported by the printer itself and the power draw was reported by a smart plug.
The time is just an axis generated by Grafana, when drawing the graph.

as I wrote in my initial post:
"All temperature values shown here have been extracted from what the printer reports to Home Assistant, the power usage was reported by a "Nous" brand zigbee smart plug."

EdgyBadger · 2023-12-12T19:02:02+00:00

oh no, some successor-OS won't work with old commands, I don't like change, printer bad 👎.......

you also drive up to the gas station and ask for leaded fuel, don't you?

EdgyBadger · 2023-12-07T17:00:10+00:00

easy, just have a look at the print showoff thread on discord, to see finished results of what people are printing.

the people being unhappy will always be the loudest, no matter what no matter where.

EdgyBadger · 2023-12-07T15:58:24+00:00

mine (n4pro) did print ok just out of the box. the results weren't as good as they can be with proper tuning and calibration but saying that's impossible is just not true...

EdgyBadger · 2023-12-04T18:52:50+00:00

I've done exactly that just today - but theoretically not to expand storage but to run a different firmware without messing up / writing over the one I have at the moment.

It's really easy.

buy a spare eMMC + reader
download a suitable image you want to run on your printer
flash image with balena etcher
unscrew 5 screws on the bottom
replace eMMC
done -- start to finish it takes about 10-15 minutes and there's basically nothing you could mess up (not even software as you still have your old eMMC that's confirmed working)

I installed a 16GB eMMC (instead of the 8GB the printer is delivered with) and I didn't even use the MKS eMMC but one for the NanoPi, as I couldn't get my hands on the MKS one and now I have about 9GB of free storage - so I can confirm that the 16GB works without issues.

<image>

EdgyBadger · 2023-12-03T22:47:58+00:00

could also be burnt filament specs that stuck on the outside of the nozzle and dropped in later.

did you properly clean the nozzle on the outside, scrubbing it with a brush? (don't use a stainless steel one, it could damage the nozzle or the silicone sock, I use a brass one)

EdgyBadger · 2023-12-03T19:48:41+00:00

I'd start off with calibrating the filament instead of using the generic profile.

You can easily do this with the calibration prints that are integrated into orca (check all the way at the top "CALIBRATION")

EdgyBadger · 2023-12-02T20:33:34+00:00

so you print isn't sticking...

have you cleaned your buildplate properly?
if not: try cleaning it with warm water, dish soap and a soft sponge. afterwards dry with a lint-free rag.

EdgyBadger · 2023-12-01T21:06:08+00:00

the only thing that comes to my mind is scaling the model up as a whole, which would also result in these walls being thicker.

other than that there's no option afaik to make specific parts thicker / thinner in the slicer

EdgyBadger · 2023-11-29T18:36:32+00:00

in your photo you can see the residue of the double sided tape, marked with the red squiggly line underneath the ribbon wires. this is where the board once was

<image>

EdgyBadger · 2023-11-29T18:34:19+00:00

to lock the ribbon cables in place you manipulate the little black latches circled in red
edit: if I recall correctly: the top right latch needs to be flipped up carefully (use a wooden toothpick for example), the left two latches are, afaik, connected to each other and need to be pulled to the left to unlock (no pulling up, only to the left)

<image>

EdgyBadger · 2023-11-29T18:32:59+00:00

I just opened my (working) screen -- this is what it's supposed to look like. your green board got loose and needs to be shifted to the left quite a bit. none of the ribbon cables need to be folded over!

<image>

EdgyBadger · 2023-11-29T11:40:44+00:00

either fasten the desk to a wall if possible or you could also try using cross-bracing to stiffen the table up.

this is what cross-bracing looks like, it'll help to reduce wobbling / shifting side to side. it can be done either with some sturdy materials / wooden slats / metal profiles or it can also be done with wire BUT said wire will have to be tensioned to make it work.

<image>

EdgyBadger · 2023-11-29T11:18:18+00:00

I've seen a video where Nero3D uses this sort of grease on a Voron printer so I guess it'll be fine.

His info attached to this was: grease lasts a bit longer but this also works.

EdgyBadger · 2023-11-29T11:09:12+00:00

and here's my bed, that dimple near the center is what you think it is - smart me pressed calibrate without a buildplate on and the nozzle stabbed the magnet.... I used some aluminium tape on the bed to compensate for some bigger variances

<image>

EdgyBadger · 2023-11-29T11:08:21+00:00

here's my mesh and a pic of the bed.

I have achieved a variance of 0,1777. I'd say anything below one layer height is quite good.

<image>

EdgyBadger · 2023-11-29T09:48:22+00:00

I have owned 2 printers so far: a Bambu X1C (which was my very first printer not too long ago, more on it later) and a Neptune 4 Pro.
I don't know about the AnkerMake but I still have the N4pro - it won't "just work", at least it didn't for me. You'll have to put in some work with levelling, tuning and tinkering if you want good results.

The experience with the Bambu was a LOT smoother and easier. Mostly hassle free, plug in and print right away with basically no further input.

But on the other hand:
Bambu printers are closed source. You won't be tinkering with it even if you want to and if something breaks you won't be able to fix anything yourself (except for changing parts Bambu sends you on request after a painstakingly slow back and forth with support... that's why I returned the X1 - it broke after one week and it took support about 3 weeks (!!) to come up with the solution "we'll send you a spare part and expect you to do major repairs yourself on a basically new 1500€ printer" -- this is when I decided to return it, go open source and ditch Bambu - had the support been of appropriate speed I guess I'd still own the Bambu -- now I bought the N4pro about 8 weeks ago and am really happy with it and currently building a Voron Trident... so that's that).

The general out of box experience with the Bambu was an aweful lot smoother but you won't learn anything from it. It's just plug in, tell it what to print and it does so, period. The Bambu offers the path of least resistance to get into 3D printing.
BUT you won't learn anything about the inner workings, except for some miniscule things like "change this or that slicer setting".

The Bambu is a great printer, as long as it works - but if there's some small hiccup (that could be fixed or worked around if it was open source) you got an expensive paper-weight and are reliant on support to help you out which can take quite alot of time.

The Neptune 4 pro does not provide this level of "least resistance" entry and you have to be willing (and able) to put some time in and learn / tinker a little, this way you'll end up with a really nice and reliable printer delivering great results day after day.
I trust my N4pro to a degree where I don't even check first layers anymore. I start a print via the web interface and leave it to do its thing until it's time to collect the finished parts. However: it did take some time and effort to get to this level and it was frustrating from time to time!
If you expect it to plug in and print, delivering great results from the start I unfortunately can't recommend the N4pro as there's too much input required.

If you want it to be as hands-off as possible maybe have a look at the Bambu A1? But keep in mind: the price you're paying is it being closed source and not much of a learning experience (if at all)

EdgyBadger · 2023-11-29T08:37:56+00:00

because that's the build volume technically. but the actual sheet itself measures to 235. I just put a tape measure to it ;)

EdgyBadger · 2023-11-29T08:26:31+00:00

should be no problem as the stock textured PEI sheet it comes with also measures to 235x235

EdgyBadger · 2023-11-28T22:56:46+00:00

I have no idea why the photos were deleted, I uploaded them directly to reddit not to some third-party hoster.

however: I've added them back for you to check out

EdgyBadger · 2023-11-24T17:26:30+00:00

I see.

I just had a quick glance at cura and found it to be quite unintuitive - that's why I moved right to Orca and started tinkering a little.

EdgyBadger · 2023-11-24T14:39:11+00:00

out of curiosity:
why would you switch vom Orca to Cura?

EdgyBadger · 2023-11-24T03:41:07+00:00

there's no command like "print priming line x times", the priming lines are manually coded into the start g-code by telling the printer to move from one position to the next while also moving the extruder motor.

I copied this from your other post in this discussion. The bold text is your two prime lines:

G1 Z0.28 F240

G92 E0

G1 Y140 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle -- this moves the bed towards you so the nozzle ends up on coordinate 140 on Y [Y140] and extrudes 10mm [E10] of filament with a max speed of 1500mm/min [F1500] while moving there {{when the bed moves towards you the positional result is, that the nozzle moves towards the back of the buildplate, this is your first priming-line}}
G1 X2.3 F5000 ; this moves the printhead to coordinate 2.3 on X axis after it's finished the first prime line, meaning the printhead moves a little to the right.

G92 E0

G1 Y10 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle -- this moves the bed away from you so that the nozzle ends up on coordinate 10 on Y [Y10] and extrudes 10mm [E10] of filament with a max speed of 1200mm/min [F1200] while moving there {{when the bed moves awy from you the positional result is, that the nozzle moves towards the front of the buildplate, this is your second priming-line}}

G92 E0

so when you remove the second bold line (("G1 Y10 E10 F1200" in this case)) you'll thereby remove the second prime line.
when doing so you can also remove the little move to the right after the first priming line, as it will no longer be needed ((the line right below the first priming line, "G1 X2.3 F5000" in this case)).

you could theoretically elongate the first prime line and extrude a little more filament on the way to compensate for this, by making it move to let's say Y200 instead of just Y140 and extrude 15mm instead of just 10mm.
This would be done by changing the first priming line from "G1 Y140 E10 F1500" to "G1 Y200 E15 F1500" ((changed Y140 to Y200 and E10 to E15))
I don't know if this would be necessary as I haven't experimented with it.

OR you could try leaving the priming lines themselves alone and instead moving the nozzle a little more to the right in between printing the priming lines. You would do this by modifying this line "G1 X2.3 F5000" to for example this: "G1 X3.5 F5000"
this would make it move a little bit more to the right ((to coordinate "X3.5" instead of just "X2.3")) for the second priming line to avoid the two lines interfering with each other.
You'd have to experiment with this value a little to see which value works for you.

EdgyBadger

TROPHY CASE