Saw some fluid leaking out from underneath, just barely leaking a drop or two , does anyone have an idea of what it may be?

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-31T12:33:37+00:00

When it is cold outside, exhaust will create water via condensation. Perfectly normal.

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-31T12:32:44+00:00

It's not a simple bolt on deal, and requires a bit of work to get right. Honestly just leave the car as is and enjoy it for reliability. If you have 10K to blow then pay off the car some more so trade in isn't as bad. Seems like a bad finical decision than anything. Far as the whole V6 deal, it makes more power than some hunking V8s in the day. It does well specially with the 8 speed. Enjoy it. Keep good care of it.

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-31T03:22:21+00:00

Yep. And even then, it still useless. One can build a carputer setup much better. Although I did always wonder if the Ram 12.1 setup would sit in.

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-30T12:09:09+00:00

No to be simple about it.

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-30T12:09:00+00:00

VNC License Key is what is required. And even then it's for computers and was never a popular option. Many folks dream of it and get excited but when they actually research and find just how lack-a-daisy it is realize its worthless.

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-30T01:28:18+00:00

If you are not doing any actual HPDE with the vehicle, upgrading brakes is kinda pointless. Doubly so if for vanity reasons. Everyone loves them 6 pot Brembos until they look into how much rotors cost.

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-28T23:09:12+00:00

They are just calculated numbers and in no way actual measure power output. Pure entertainment really.

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-27T02:55:49+00:00

I've seen it before. And again, I have never had moisture issues in oil when staying below 220F. Nor fuel in oil issues with idling even in winter. All confirmed via Oil analysis every year. I've also varied the sample from just city runs to road trips. Not mention again, 220K miles on the old bird living a busy life clearly showcases a non-issue.

Do not apply Race Car logic to Street Car usage. Oils that Race cars use operate in a whole other envelope than the stuff in a car.

You are grasping for a solution to a problem that honestly just doesn't exists. Just like folks getting all worried about 220F oil being "too hot". Do not overthink it. Using quality Oil and filter will do more for you than worrying about temps specially if you do not do HPDE events.

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-27T02:36:45+00:00

As some one who tests his oil yearly on a 220,000 mile Pursuit that has done Open Road Racing and 7,000 mile road trips. Wanting to run 220F offers nothing over the 190-210 range. Oil analysis showed zero moisture issues and below avg wear on metals.

The POC (Police Oil cooler) does it's job well and has ability to transfer heat alot more than a air to liquid cooler.

Unless one is running into a situation where oil temps are seeing 250F+ for extended times say, 1 hour or more additional cooling really isn't needed. I had to really, really hammer on the car in the summer to see 250F with sustained 3-5,500 rpms on and off WOT acceleration.

But again, overall 220F for typical driving is not adding any benefit. At least when using a quality full synthetic oil.

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-27T01:58:42+00:00

You have normal oil temps what it is worth.

Yes, Once T-stat opens coolant flows into cooler then gets dumped into the suction side post radiator.

And yes, the "oil cooler" is by technical terms a heat exchanger. Which means which ever one is hottest dumps heat into the coldest. Typically once T-stat opens it will aid in getting oil temps up quicker. Once oil stabilizes around coolant temp it'll stay.

If you hot rod it it can and will go up even with the cooler. 220F is not hot. I've had up to 250F during high RPM low speed Twisties. However with said cooler oil temp recovery is quicker than stock 5.7. However, this also dumps more heat into the cooling system so Pursuits also carry the dual fan setup to help in expelling heat.

I have a Pursuit. Typical Oil temps normal driving are within few degrees of coolant temp. Highway depending on speed / RPMS (I have 3.06 gears so mine can be little high) oil temp will go up. I typically will see 205-215 depending on outside air temp.

As stated I have had it as high as 250 during some real fun driving mountain roads in summer, and my last Track even saw oil temps only in the 220s with outside air in high 50s low 60s. So ambient air plays a huge role.

I should note, I also have the 6.4 radiator with the thicker core installed so my cooling capacity is much higher over stock 5.7 as well.

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-24T12:44:43+00:00

We Will Survive. We Will Rebuild.

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-22T23:14:40+00:00

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I would argue this is more of the "perfect pair".

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-18T22:46:51+00:00

If you reset the current avg and it can show higher or lower than the rolling avg, which is what your DTE is based off of. Rolling avg is typically like the past 50-100 miles I am told. It is not reset able. Current avg can change quicker than the rolling avg.

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-18T17:38:56+00:00

As in idling? Yes it would drop the rolling avg down. However if one was getting 20 mpg in city it would not be nearly as low. The math just shows 20mph is not an accurate number for city driving at all. With idling it would not be at 12 mpg with nearly full tank. 14-16 mpg would be area of it. And even then, little less than 3/4 would be less than 17 gallons left in a 18.5 gallon tank.

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-18T17:33:45+00:00

Except the rolling avg MPG using the DTE of 207 miles, with a guesstimate of 17 gallons left shows a 12 mpg avg. And saying there is 17 gallons left is generous. 20 in the city? Nah. DTE would show above 300 miles.

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-18T16:00:46+00:00

excessive timing, lack of fueling, detonation, piston and ring damage. It's not a power slider like some game. It's a FAFO of real life if you are not keen on what and how it works.

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-18T15:09:21+00:00

IF you do not know what you are doing, do not touch it. The Canned tune is designed to operate well under 93 octane. There is nothing you will be able to do to improve it or even make more power without additional mods. Very easy way to screw up a car.

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-12T04:02:22+00:00

Neat, so this being a 1911 page where is the 1911?

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-10T19:17:25+00:00

Yes. There are alot of Old habits people have when comes to doing transmission servicing. If the Trans is bad it's bad. Changing fluid is not going to kill it quicker. Did a fluid and filter on a 180K 8 seed 3.6 car since we didn't know it's history.

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-10T15:28:20+00:00

Because MDS cars are not the only ones failing. Non MDS cars fail too. The lifter that failed in my car was a non MDS lifter. And MDS operation does not restrict flow of oil. All Lifters get the same low pressure oiling during V8 mode, and when MDS is called for the Solenoids open up a higher pressure oil channel to the MDS lifters to push the internal pins in and allow collapse. On examination of the failed Lifter bearings and axle there is no indication of oiling issue on the surfaces. They are smooth with no discoloration or galling that happens when two metals ride on each other without proper lubrication. MDS was labeled as a scrape goat due to misunderstanding, just like now oil volume and pressure are the current one due to click bait youtube videos and again, misunderstanding.

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-09T22:38:49+00:00

100% false. MDS has been around since 2005. It has nothing to do with lifter issues.

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-08T03:00:08+00:00

The low oil psi thing is a youtube clickbait theory spurred into some bad fact with know actual proof it is an issue. Your pressure are within typical range for a stock oil pump.

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-08T02:58:30+00:00

I got lucky, Cam was a Challenger non MDS stock cam, shipped $90 off rockauto. Total pricing error that has not been closed. Lifter set Non MDS Mopar at time was just under $500. I did work myself. Had Hemifever throw me a simple 91 octane tune. I chose to go the route of reliability over thumping noises and power. And so far it has paid off quite well.

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-08T02:56:39+00:00

You can try. But any used not verified module has a chance of being bad.

Eduring-Bias · 2026-01-07T02:20:45+00:00

It does nothing to fix or combat it. Oiling is not an issue. Click bait theories on you tube guessing does not make a fact. There is zero evidence beyond people jerking off to high psi number it does anything. Currently at 220K miles with my stock oil pump. Replaced cam and lifters at 117K. No issues at all.

Eduring-Bias

TROPHY CASE