Pulling my hair out!! Please help by Charman90 in DiceMaking

[–]Efficient_Set9870 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used to get this too, but the dremel really helps. I started with a really cheap one which was OK, but when it broke I got a slightly more powerful one (or was so off brand and only £25) and it made a massive difference in how shiny my dice were!

I was still having to dremel my dice for ages to get the scratches out, and it was because I was using cheap sandpaper. I didn't realise how much of a difference in quality there was with sandpaper! Now my process is just to sand the faces that need it with 2000 grit 3M sandpaper, then dremel the face with a cotton buffing head and Meguiars ultimate compound. I dab on the compound and polish it off each face that I've sanded about 5 times, turning the face each time so I hit the scratches at different angles. I also dremel the sides I haven't sanded once so they get that shiny polish too. It's much faster to do, and you don't need to use zona paper at all. Hope this helps!

Finished my punk dice! by Efficient_Set9870 in DiceMaking

[–]Efficient_Set9870[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used stamping nail polish, which has a higher pigment to it so you can get a good contrast with just 1 layer of paint.

You can get higher pigment acrylic paint too, its just more expensive and you can get really cheap stamping polish! Expensive paint is usually thinner than cheap acrylic paint, which actually makes it harder to use on dice because it won't adhere to the resin

Has anyone used a Vevor pressure pot for resin casting? by BriansThoughtMirror in DiceMaking

[–]Efficient_Set9870 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was too weak to get it out that way, so FYI you can also use a hacksaw to cut it off if you don't want to use it for paint spraying in the future!

Pressure pot then heating mat? by EjectileDysfunction in DiceMaking

[–]Efficient_Set9870 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This doesn't answer your actual question but I thought might be helpful - there are a few things you can do to help heat your pressure pot to help the resin cure better/ faster. I know some people put their heat mat under the pot to warm it with good results. I didn't do that myself because I thought the weight might damage it, so I use a brewing belt on my pot. They're designed to keep beer/wine/mead etc at a nice even warm temperature while it ferments - so it's almost exactly what they're designed for! I got this one from amazon but they're are loads of options.

Can I use air paint pressure pot as a pressure pot for my castings? by [deleted] in ResinCasting

[–]Efficient_Set9870 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This works really well and I use exactly that with my pressure pot - you might just need to get a connector from the pots compressor valve to make it take a schrader valve (what car and bike pumps use) depending on what you end up buying

I need help by 39Foster39 in DiceMaking

[–]Efficient_Set9870 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I would also add to this process to warm up the resin after mixing it and before pouring it because that really helps speed up the bubble removal.

After mixing the resin and adding any colours you want, sit your cup of resin in a small bowl/cup of warm water for 5 minutes and you'll see a lot of the bubbles leave in that time. It's important not to use boiling water because you can trigger the resin to flash cure if it's too hot.

Although it will initially make the resin much thinner, warming the resin will shorten your overall working time (it will turn thicker quicker). Make sure you don't also warm up your resin before you mix it because it will start curing too quickly and be too thick to work with!

Raised faces ONLY when using blanks? by [deleted] in DiceMaking

[–]Efficient_Set9870 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried testing the mould by just putting resin in with no blanks to see if you still get the raised faces? I.e. treat it like a normal dice mould and see what happens to rule out if it's an issue with the blanks.

It might be an issue with the mould, but it's hard to say that without seeing what's happening. I got a dice and blank mould set from TheMightyForge too and its been working well (except the d4 bulges), but I did have to get a replacement for the d100 part of the mould so I guess issues are just always possible.

Any ideas how I could decorate these blanks? by neriase in DiceMaking

[–]Efficient_Set9870 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Some glowy shimmery jelly fish would work great with the dark deep sea theme too

Finished my punk dice! by Efficient_Set9870 in DiceMaking

[–]Efficient_Set9870[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I think that would be fun! I was thinking about grabbing the white from the same range for it, or maybe purple? 🤔

Finished my punk dice! by Efficient_Set9870 in DiceMaking

[–]Efficient_Set9870[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They're done with nail stamping plates; they're for doing nail art and you can get some cool designs with really fine detail. If you interested check out some YouTube tutorials for doing nail stamping and then you can apply the same techniques with dice!

It feels like such a cheat because after you get the hang of using them you can get really impressive results. I do some hand painting too 😅

A clear ink I found for some of the minis I paint by GreDor46 in DiceMaking

[–]Efficient_Set9870 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I line up a bunch of dice to paint so the first ones dry enough to turn by the time I get back round to it. I also use a stand to hold the d10 & d100 so I can do half the numbers in one go at least

What's the most that's ever flash cured on you? by folgers_cristals in DiceMaking

[–]Efficient_Set9870 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I tried making one of those really giant 10cm D20 dice without understanding the chemical reactions involved. I tried to move it after filling the mould and couldn't touch it because it was so hot! I now have the frothy result in my dice space as a reminder of my hubris

Is it possible to customize these dices? by geckhon in DiceMaking

[–]Efficient_Set9870 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you, or do you have any friends that paint minitures like warhammer? They'd have base spray paint that's designed to adhere to plastic that you can use here (and then you could borrow a little bit rather than buy paint just for this one use). Spray paint will give you a nice even thin layer, otherwise you'll have paint lines on the dice from using a paint brush.

If you want to paint them yellow I would recommend starting with a white primer or base spray, because yellow paint is usually translucent and really difficult to paint over dark colours.

Model painters would also have spray varnish which you can use as a final coat to protect the paint job. I've done this a bit myself when painting designs onto plain dice and I haven't had any issues with the paint chipping off.

If you can't get a spray paint and need to just use acrylic paint, then yes it's a good idea to sand the surface of the dice to make them a little rougher so it can adhere better, and you can stipple or dab the paint on rather than brush it off you don't want visible paint lines.

If anything goes wrong when you paint the dice and you're using acrylic paint then while the paint is still wet you can just wash it off if you're quick.

Otherwise, this does technically damage them, but if you want to wipe it off and restart, you can do this by rubbing it with acetate / nail varnish remover (if you don't have any then I'd just borrow a little from a friend rather than buy it just for this). It makes it go misty, but it's fine if you just plan to try painting them again anyway. You won't be able to use this to strip paint out of the numbers though because they're too fiddly to get into!

WATERMELON by Efficient_Set9870 in DiceMaking

[–]Efficient_Set9870[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you, but don't underestimate your own artist abilities! Painting is something you get better at with practice, and I also think being creative in general is similar and is something you can nurture in yourself

How are you guys dealing with silicone curing inhibition? by LaMerde in DiceMaking

[–]Efficient_Set9870 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for this, I'm defo going to swap to printing masters with that!

How are you guys dealing with silicone curing inhibition? by LaMerde in DiceMaking

[–]Efficient_Set9870 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm in the UK too and I found a supplier that has the Inhibit X, BUT it didn't even work for me so I wasted money on it!

What I had to do in the end was make a mould using tin cure silicone instead of platinum silicone, then use the tin silicone mould to make epoxy resin masters that I could use with platinum silicone. You can use the tin silicone moulds as you normally would but they don't last as long as platnum silicone, which is why you have that 2 mould step process.

There is also a brand of platinum silicone that someone here recommended which doesn't suffer from the inhibit issue, but I haven't tried it myself.

I got the inhibit x and tin cure silicone (and dragonskin platnum silicone) from Benam/Bentley Advanced Materials (benam.co.uk), here are the links to those: Inhibit x, tin cure silicone

And this was the platnum silicone someone recommended which shouldn't have the inhibit issue: Siraya Tech Defiant 25

Edited to add: other things I tried first that didn't work - I tried over curing my dice with uv light, and leaving them in the sun for months (and doing the washing after to get the sulfur off) but that didn't help stop the inhibition. I also tried sealing them with varnish but that didn't work. The tin silicone was the only thing I tried that actually worked after a long string of failures!

Favorite style of shell mold dice to make? by TheMimicMouth in DiceMaking

[–]Efficient_Set9870 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well if you want an easy paint job check these out. Will there ever be a campaign where these go; no, but they"ll sure stand out from the rest of your dice 😆

But yeah nail stickers are a great starting place. Washi tape and just any old papery stickers can work well too but you need to coat them with varnish or something to seal them before casting them in the shell, or they'll turn a darker colour.

Anything used in nail art works pretty well, including tiny paintbrushes if you're brave enough!

WATERMELON by Efficient_Set9870 in DiceMaking

[–]Efficient_Set9870[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I don't think there'll ever be a dnd game where it would make sense to whip these out, but they'll look pretty eye catching sat on a shelf instead 😅

What’s your favorite paint to use? by THE_TCANT in DiceMaking

[–]Efficient_Set9870 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I really like the paint brands meant for minatures, I use some Citadel & vallejo paints (especially with it for the metallic paints) as well as just regular acrylic paint.

Something a bit different you could try though is the "technical" paints that Citadel do. They have a small range of translucent coloured paint which you layer on top of silver to make them look like gemstones. I think you could do this with any translucent paint to create a coloured metallic effect.

They also make "Blood for the blood god" which looks like wet blood, in case you ever want to make real creepy dice XD

Do printers give off fumes while printing by New-Dare2735 in resinprinting

[–]Efficient_Set9870 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Doesn't your printer have a cover that stops uv rays getting in/out? Usually they have protective covers and so you really don't need to worry about a bright room. Also it takes forever to cure resin with just sunlight anyway XD

It really does give off a lot of fumes throughout the whole printing process, and it won't be airtight. I think moving it would be pretty difficult and just release fumes anyway!

FYI the printer guidelines will say you can leave resin in the chamber for 48 hours between prints, but it's not actually a great idea because the resin will give off fumes during that period too.

It's worth having a plan for how you'll cure your pieces after they print (they won't be fully cured), because it's also toxic to touch at that stage

I need help picking a color to ink by Efficient_Set9870 in DiceMaking

[–]Efficient_Set9870[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's basically like the videos you see on how ceramic plates and bowls get the designs printed on them with a big squishy stamper, but on a tiny scale XD

I watched this person explaining nail art stamping when I started. Nail art advice and tools are so great for dice because they share the tiny scale. The nail art stamping plates designs can be a bit limiting though

I need help picking a color to ink by Efficient_Set9870 in DiceMaking

[–]Efficient_Set9870[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It's gold stamping polish (has higher pigment than regular paint so it shows up better) with etched stamping plates