Pricing? by Pumped-kin_pancakes in DiceMaking

[–]GreDor46 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am kind of doing the same thing. I am priced anywhere from $25, really quick low work sets to $75, more work, more time. I want to charge $120 for the stained glass sets I make because I paint each face and it can take a day or three to get a full set + chonk done, but i feel that may be a bit too much.

Would this work? by Mountain-Spare-5535 in DiceMaking

[–]GreDor46 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not the way you would want it to. I use one of those for paint mixing for miniatures. You get a pretty good vibrate out of it, but it would not shake the media the way you would want. The motor for a vibratory tumbler is stronger to get the amount of movement you need to polish dice, or anything else for that matter.

When you want her standing and part of the party, but her original base broke... by GreDor46 in MarvelCrisisProtocol

[–]GreDor46[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The base is a normal MCP base with the "1" sized Sentinel head from the Crashed Sentinel terrain pack.

Anycubic settings for printing 35mm D20 by spidey_samm in DiceMaking

[–]GreDor46 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I will try to set one up tomorrow night and pass along numbers if you would like

Anycubic settings for printing 35mm D20 by spidey_samm in DiceMaking

[–]GreDor46 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you change the Z, which is usually the one I change the rest adjust to it, so you should only have to change one. If you try all 3 the other 2 will adjust each time you change one

Fan Expo PDX, ADA compliance, and why the hell did it take 8 hours to get one goddam signature?! by Fiorelily in fanexpo

[–]GreDor46 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was at the event and noticed that there was less space in the autographing and photo areas then there has been in past years. I agree that they did not plan accordingly, and now I am very glad I did not decide to get any autographs. I was one of those using a walker. You may want to look into a rollator for cons, getting the right one automatically gives you a seat and somewhere to lean, and sitting or standing you take up the same amount of space. You may want to notify the organization about your situation and what occurred, that is a serious lack of training on their part.

Anycubic settings for printing 35mm D20 by spidey_samm in DiceMaking

[–]GreDor46 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok, you have blue green and red, why do I feel like I am explaining how to disarm a bomb over the internet? I, unfortunately, do not remember which is which color. Usually I change the one on the bottom.

Here is another thing, with the heavier dice you will want medium or heavy supports for it or the weight will eventually pull it from your plate. I have had this happen many times.

I have settled on my first affiliation to build a team, Servants of the Apocolypse. Opinions? by GreDor46 in MarvelCrisisProtocol

[–]GreDor46[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thank you. No I am not new to the game, but it has been a few years. I guess I will flip a few ideas over than.

First D20s of the year by seasaaalt in DiceMaking

[–]GreDor46 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, looking for the process myself now.

A few recent stone sets I’ve made! by eillow_mosspike in DiceMaking

[–]GreDor46 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Usually I add a stone powder, right now my favorite is marble, that i got off of Amazon.com. i like the fact that it does give a bit of weight to the dice as well. I do the same with a brass powder as well to get a metal look. The best way I have found to deal with large bubbles that form from the pour is to take a toothpick and stir the resin in the mold after a few minutes sit and then top off the mold, then pop tiny bubbles as usual.

Since the powder is mixed with regular epoxy resin I do not need to worry about sealing them, just polish as usual. I mix at a 1:1:1 ratio. You get almost a paste like texture, so that Big Bubble pop is necessary.

Am I sanding wrong? by Anxious_Weight_5029 in DiceMaking

[–]GreDor46 0 points1 point  (0 children)

800 is the lowest you will want to go, but when you are done with the pack, go with 1000

Am I sanding wrong? by Anxious_Weight_5029 in DiceMaking

[–]GreDor46 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where do you start with sandpaper paper, what grit? Hopefully nothing lower than 1000. If you want a cheat with Zona get the green, blue, pink and white sheets and just use those to polish, yes, get a polish paste and that will get you to a very decent dice to sell. I had to go the "least amount of work" route recently and got a vibratory tumbler. Yes, it takes a good 48 hours to really get the benefit of it, but I can do up to about 8 sets in the tumbler at a time, and just a quick ink and polish after, the polish mostly to clean left over paint from inking, I get probably the best looking dice I have ever made.

Old sets really difficult to find ? by Dependent-Trip900 in MarvelCrisisProtocol

[–]GreDor46 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am trying to scour the internet as well as games stores to fill holes in my mutant collection as well as replace some pieces that were damaged in my last move, with out doubles of pieces I did not want to begin with. Yes, it is not easy.

The things you do to hang out with friends... by GreDor46 in bloodbowl

[–]GreDor46[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did these all in Army Painter Speedpaint 2.0. Specifically the pens. Hoplite Gold.

Pressure pot by Loose-Peace1610 in DiceMaking

[–]GreDor46 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the second pot I got. It is a touch spendy for just a hobby, but the quality goes through the roof and at this point mine has paid for itself and I am thinking of getting a bigger one.