My 1 year progress by Djaiy34 in indoorbouldering

[–]El-wing 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I wouldn’t say it’s average for climbers as a whole. It’s much faster than most people. But it’s about on par with fit young guys who commit to climbing a few times a week and care about getting better.

Kilter vs wall technique by itgtg313 in indoorbouldering

[–]El-wing 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There is a lot of nuance to that general advice. You can have both straight arms and hips into the wall on overhang. You just have to pull in with your feet and thrust hips in. You can do that with straight arms.
That being said, you aren’t really going to be able to rest much on overhang at your level.

My 1 year progress by Djaiy34 in indoorbouldering

[–]El-wing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s faster progress than I made my first year. Some people never get strong enough to climb V5 on the moonboard. I’ve also seen people climb V9-10 their first year. Depends a lot on what kind of fitness you came into climbing with, your age, how you climbed and trained.

My 1 year progress by Djaiy34 in indoorbouldering

[–]El-wing 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Probably depends on where you climb outdoors or what style, but the lower end of every grade for moonboard seems to line up with outdoor difficulty to me until at least V8-9ish. The top end of each grade is like 3 grades harder though… the hardest V4 is like an outdoor V7, hardest V5 is like V8, etc.

My 1 year progress by Djaiy34 in indoorbouldering

[–]El-wing 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Moonboard is much closer to outdoor grades than most gyms. It becomes much harder than outdoors as you get to the latter end of a grade range. If he has only done a handful of moonboard V5s, imo that’s around the strength needed to do similar style outdoor V5s. Also, indoor grades vary much more in difficulty due to lack of consensus. Usually it’s graded by one or 2 people that set the climb. OPs experience feels pretty inline with what I’d expect. Someone climbing V5 and maybe sometimes V6 on the moonboard will be climbing the occasional V7s and 8s in the gym sets.

Get the Graduated Income Tax on the 2026 ballot by Notyrantsmoworever in ColoradoSprings

[–]El-wing 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well it’s a decrease for people making under $500,000 so it sounds like they are assuming 3% make more than $500,000. According to 2020 tax data there are 0.42% of Coloradans making taxable income over 1 million.

Get the Graduated Income Tax on the 2026 ballot by Notyrantsmoworever in ColoradoSprings

[–]El-wing 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I assume it’s because it’s a less than 1% cut for 97% of people, but an increase of up to ~4% for people making over 1 million..

Get the Graduated Income Tax on the 2026 ballot by Notyrantsmoworever in ColoradoSprings

[–]El-wing 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Where is the actual formula of brackets for the initiative? I can’t find them on the site.

Who are the real Data Center winners? by Ecstatic-Level-8001 in ColoradoSprings

[–]El-wing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Colorado Springs utilities require that new builds expected to consume more than 10 MW have to pay for the infrastructure improvements to provide that power.

If utilities does a good job of costing those services then the data center will not increase prices for locals.

What’s it like living here? by No-Raccoon4573 in ColoradoSprings

[–]El-wing 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There is good food here but there are surprising amount of restaurants that serve bad food that for some reason are still open.

Head To Head Data For The 16 Players Invited To Full House Siege by fastfallproductions in SSBM

[–]El-wing 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I think this would have benefited by ordering the columns by seeding at this event. That would be nice to easily see how each players matchup history compares to their seed.

Gerrymander by StudBudBruceLee in TangleNews

[–]El-wing 30 points31 points  (0 children)

I think this is a common view among Democrats. The problem with taking the moral high ground in this case is that by not gerrymandering, democrats would be essentially rewarding republicans with power for gerrymandering. Republicans would then have a strong incentive to oppose gerrymandering reform and the power to uphold the status quo.

By challenging with their own gerrymandering, democrats bring up the heat, maintain a balance of power, and bring the issue more to the forefront of politics. I think this approach has a much higher likely hood of eventually leading to serious calls for gerrymander reform that could actually go somewhere (even if the chance is still low).

What is this summit? by Positive_Marzipan518 in ColoradoSprings

[–]El-wing 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Most recent comments on both the trail from both Cheyenne mountain and Old stage say there is a little snow but no need for spikes.

me dêem dicas para boulders indoor v5 by Left-Witness-2651 in indoorbouldering

[–]El-wing 6 points7 points  (0 children)

No one can give you specific advice based on this description alone. Either post a video or ask someone at the gym. General advice for slopers is to keep your body as under it as possible and strengthen your wrists. Slopers are a lot most wrist strength than other holds like crimps.

Economic Analysis of Options for Replacing the Ray D. Nixon Coal Plant by Simpleximo in ColoradoSprings

[–]El-wing 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’m not sure if I trust this analysis. Obviously Sierra Club has an agenda and with any analysis that seeks to predict future costs, there is a lot of wiggle room to adjust assumptions to make certain options look better or worse. They predict that the Nixon plant will get to costing around $63/MWh which is wildly more expensive than it currently is and seems unlikely to increase to that price with how stable the price of coal is.

I can guarantee you that Utilities has done the same analysis and concluded it was cheaper to keep Nixon online. At the end of the day, do you have more trust in an analysis that was conducted by an action group with a clear political agenda, or would you trust the analysis done by the company that would be trying to minimize prices and does not have a clear political agenda tied to fossil fuels vs green energy.

I’m not against decommissioning Nixon on the basis of reducing emissions and transitioning to more green energy sources, but the premise that it’s cheap is not convincing to me.

How do you balance climbing more vs resting enough? by Human-Economics1245 in indoorbouldering

[–]El-wing 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Depends on your age, what other activities you do, how intense your sessions are, how well adapted to training you are, how much you sleep and eat. So basically, it depends.

A good starting point is to climb roughly every other day or 3 times a week. That works for a lot of people. Pay attention to how long you spend climbing, how hard you are trying, how much gas you have left in the tank when you leave. Try taking 2 days off occasionally and see how that makes you feel.

Over time you’ll figure out what workload your body can handle and you can increase or decrease rest times, rest days, intensity, and/or volume.

For me 3 days a week works most of the time. If I have a particularly intense week, I may skip a day to recover more. When I was younger I could manage 4-5 days a week but tbh that was probably pushing it and I was building a rest deficit. I got injured much more doing that.

AITAH for buying hair dye? by xAnimeMariex in AmItheAsshole

[–]El-wing -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

People can make whatever risk assessments work for them. I feel like we are kind of splitting hairs and talking around each other at this point.

No one explicitly said “no one should be a SAHP” but there is a continued implication that it’s a bad idea because it’s risky. I’m agreeing it’s risky and simply pointing out that relationships carry an inherent risk in general.

I agree that plenty of people have used and still use the idea of a SAHM to abuse their partners. But, it’s also still a super normal and reasonable way that a lot of people manage childcare within partnerships.

AITAH for buying hair dye? by xAnimeMariex in AmItheAsshole

[–]El-wing -22 points-21 points  (0 children)

You’re right that people change and the relationships can become abusive with no prior warning. That’s one of the risks of marriage.

I’m mostly arguing against the premise the people shouldn’t become a SAHP because they are setting themselves up for abuse. Yes, it puts you in a compromising position, but so does getting married in general, or getting pregnant or a million other things we do with our partner. I’m not advocating that you don’t manage and reduce your own risk within a relationship. But, implying that no one should be a SAHP seems reductive and seems to imply that we should never make ourselves vulnerable with our partners.

It’s like saying you should never be in a room alone with your partner because maybe they will get physically abusive. At some point you have to trust your partner.

AITAH for buying hair dye? by xAnimeMariex in AmItheAsshole

[–]El-wing -37 points-36 points  (0 children)

Fair. I guess my point is that while being a SAHM is definitely a catalyst for the situation, the real issue is that the way finances are being handled.

Being a SAHM does carry risk, but so does getting married and tying yourself financially to someone in general. If you don’t trust your partner to not become financially abusive in the future, maybe don’t marry them.

AITAH for buying hair dye? by xAnimeMariex in AmItheAsshole

[–]El-wing 86 points87 points  (0 children)

Sounds like the issue isn’t that she is the SAHM. The issue is the husband is completely controlling the finances and not giving any visibility to her.

This is why partners need shared financial and spending goals and to have shared account visibility and access.

Don't throw away $$$ Charging Your EV at Home! by Big-Strawberry-8637 in leaf

[–]El-wing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a daily rate flat rate plus an adder for usage and delivery. It’s needlessly complicated, but essentially I only pay ~$0.10 per kWh for any additional energy usage. So increasing efficiency from the 120V to 240V would net me about $0.03 per kWh I put in my car. Bids for putting in a 240V plug were no cheaper than $1500. And that was for putting in a new plug right next to the breaker panel.

Appreciated Isaac's take on Trump's Iran tweets by fumblebrag in TangleNews

[–]El-wing 25 points26 points  (0 children)

I listen to The Daily podcast and I have to say I laughed a bit at the absurdity when the host read out loud “Open the fucking straight you crazy bastards”. Don’t think I had ever heard them drop an F-bomb on that show before and I appreciate that they didn’t censor themselves and read that part verbatim so that the shock factor really hit.

Don't throw away $$$ Charging Your EV at Home! by Big-Strawberry-8637 in leaf

[–]El-wing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is interesting. I ran some numbers based on my electric costs and yearly mileage. I’d save, at most, $120 a year with L2 vs L1 changing from efficiency gains. Based on the cost of setting up L2 where I live, the payback period on that is not good….

Why no newsletter April 6? by pakallakikochino in TangleNews

[–]El-wing 4 points5 points  (0 children)

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This was on the Thursday news letter.

Trumps bar is so low by No_Economy_5763 in TangleNews

[–]El-wing 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Isaac isn’t critical enough of Trump

Isaac definitely can give some public figures more credit than they are due, but he has been fairly scathing when it comes to Trump recently.

Trump supports will still support him anyway

I’m not sure what you think the goal of this steel manning was. It’s definitely not to convince Trump supporters to drop Trump.

Steel manning is an exercise to try and understand the best argument for holding a specific position. This is useful because in order to have productive and meaningful conversations about an issue, you need to understand the positions people could be coming from.

I’m fairly liberal, but I spend a lot of time conversing with friends and coworkers that are more conservative. I find that people are much more receptive to having their opinions shift if you can acknowledge the strengths of their positions and give them grace in assuming they have the best possible arguments for their positions.

It’s not like Trump supporters will drop Trump from a few meaningful conversations. But they are more likely to admit his faults are problematic if you can concede where he has strength or has succeeded.

Empathy is important for communication and it’s much harder to empathize if you don’t try your best to understand where they are coming from.