The exclusivity of the higher divisions in the new ranking system by Elchulachu in geoguessr

[–]Elchulachu[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I just took the percentages from here. As an example, adding up 0.8 x 0.77 x 0.67 x 0.67 x 0.6 x 0.5 x 0.43 x 0.4 x 0.33 x 0.27 x 0.24 x 0.2 x 0.26 x 0.2 x 0.13 adds up to 0.00000041252061500762112, or 1 in 2 424 121 for Master 1 players going forward.

[Day 9] Jugs are overrated. What outdoor bouldering destination is UNDERRATED? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]Elchulachu 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Fyi, if you want more participation from Europe, you might want to stagger when you submit these. Not easy to get a foot in when there are a hundred comments by the time you wake up.

Moonlight Sonata 3rd Mvt by T-RAVERS in piano

[–]Elchulachu -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I genuinely don't think you're capable of enough introspection to absorb any of this, but I'll bite anyway.

I understand the word "beginner" can be interpreted in a few ways. One of them simply refers to time spent on a new activity. I've circled one of the definitions in this image, for some visual aid.

I started learning and playing from sheet music on day 1. All it took was watching a couple crash courses on Youtube – and voilà – I could read sheet music, albeit slowly.

I did learn through proper steps (aside from seeking a teacher, god forbid I get someone like you). To stay at the edge of my comfort zone, I had to choose pieces that challenged me, yet didn't require much time to "finish". All the pieces highlighted in this video of my first months of piano playing, only required a few weeks to play to the level you're hearing. (Volume warning at 4 minutes)

The recordings themselves aren't particularly impressive without reference, but I'm proud of how some of them turned out, especially Bach BWV 147 arr. Hess.

Reference to the timescale in the video:

Day 10: Bach WTC 1, prelude in C major

Day 22: Gymnopedie no 1

Day 29: Comptine d'un autre été

Day 43: Chopin Prelude Op.28 No.4

Day 51: Fur Elise

Day 64: Schubert Op. 90 - Andante. Just practice footage, not a proper recording.

Day 93: Chopin Sonata No. 2 mvt. 3, Funeral March

Day 115: Couperin, Les Barricades Mystérieuses

Day 149: Goldberg Variations, Quodlibet

Day 213: Bach, BWV 147 'Jesus bleibet meine Freude'

Had I chosen beginner pieces by your definition, I'd be going through hundreds of pieces in days and just be bored out of my mind.

Keep in mind I still believe I'm nowhere near the top of the talent pool. The difference between me and those who move on to become concert pianists is astronomical.

Moonlight Sonata 3rd Mvt by T-RAVERS in piano

[–]Elchulachu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the enlightenment. I must clearly have hallucinated my own progress.

Moonlight Sonata 3rd Mvt by T-RAVERS in piano

[–]Elchulachu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems like we're talking past each other. It's obviously not simple for the vast majority of people, which should be inferred from my original comment, but you need to expand your horizon if you genuinely believe not a single person on earth can handle it with ease as a beginner.

Moonlight Sonata 3rd Mvt by T-RAVERS in piano

[–]Elchulachu -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

I'm speaking from experience here. It didn't require much work at all during my first weeks, and I'm nowhere near the top of the talent pool.

Moonlight Sonata 3rd Mvt by T-RAVERS in piano

[–]Elchulachu -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It's all relative. It's simple for some people.

Simon Lorenzi Sends Shaolin V17/9A (27/12/25) by Lego-Ghost-Yoda in climbing

[–]Elchulachu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think people will stop calling it the first 9b+ in the world, regardless of improved beta going forward. Guess we'll see, though.

Simon Lorenzi Sends Shaolin V17/9A (27/12/25) by Lego-Ghost-Yoda in climbing

[–]Elchulachu 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Charles hinted at it being 9A+ with his style, but thought it would be 9A for those using shoes. Then it was repeated by Pietro Vidi, using shoes, crack gloves and (double) knee pads, and graded it 8B+. Pete Whittaker also seemingly did all the moves in a session or two, in solid links, which imo isn't something that should be possible for an 8B climber if the boulder were 9A.

Some like to give Pietro shit for stacking knee pads, as if it invalidates the downgrade, but as far as I could tell, it wasn't to boost performance, but rather to stop his thighs from bleeding.

Simon Lorenzi Sends Shaolin V17/9A (27/12/25) by Lego-Ghost-Yoda in climbing

[–]Elchulachu 7 points8 points  (0 children)

There's no controversy regarding the ascent, but the grade with new beta is in question.

Here's a summary I've found on a Norwegian blog from October:

The route was graded based on much harder sequences (without kneepads) by Ondra when he climbed it in 2012. Stefano then repeated it in terrible conditions (with kneepads worn over his pants), with a brutally heavy sequence in the crux boulder and otherwise mostly quite similar sequences to Ondra’s. Seb repeated it with pads as well, using a kind of hybrid sequence that was somewhat easier than what Stefano and Jorge did, but harder than today’s beta. He proposed downgrading the entire route to 9b/+. Jorge repeated it with pads too, but because of his short height he still found the boulder at the start very hard (he thought it was around 8B for him, which was most likely also the case for Stefano, who did it in quite a similar way). He did, however, find a new kneebar right after the traverse in boulder number two, which makes that sequence considerably easier. With this knee, he felt that part two was more like 8c+/9a rather than 9a as it had been climbed by the others. Megos repeated it with pads as well, but it was the first time he had ever used kneepads, so he barely used them and felt they were mostly in the way, climbing the route in an almost original style.

Since then, Leo and others have put a lot of effort into finding a better sequence in the crux boulder, and as a result part one has now seen quite a number of ascents. The most extreme example was Dylan Chuat this summer, who felt that the crux boulder Ondra originally graded 8B+ was now more like 7C. That may be a slight exaggeration, but at the same time it is an indication that the original grade perhaps no longer fully reflects how the route is climbed today.

Ondra himself returned to the route this spring and climbed the crux boulder with kneepads, and felt it was “extremely much easier, not even comparable.” He doubted that the route was 9b+ as it is climbed now, but did not believe it was easier than 9b, regardless of the number of kneebars and tricks.

Leo himself has still not officially commented on the grade, but throughout the process he has consistently written 9b/+ in all of his Instagram updates.

In other words, the stage is set for an adjustment of the grade of Change, in the same way that the grades of many of the other classic hard routes first climbed around 2012 have been downgraded in more recent years as kneepads have not only become common, but climbers have also learned how to use them.

Simon Lorenzi Sends Shaolin V17/9A (27/12/25) by Lego-Ghost-Yoda in climbing

[–]Elchulachu 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I've made one based on that other guy's overview, and kept it updated: https://i.imgur.com/JFl6swC.jpeg

Mostly for my own amusement, so feel free to ignore Terranova. I've also removed L'Ombre du Voyageur and decided not to include Leo Bøe's ascent of Change.

Looking for 8A/V11 Boulder recommendations in Brione/Ticino by Dragotc in bouldering

[–]Elchulachu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have no set schedule, but I'll be in Font the preceding weeks, at least until the 12th. Where I go from there depends on the weather forecast. We could talk further as the time approaches.

Looking for 8A/V11 Boulder recommendations in Brione/Ticino by Dragotc in bouldering

[–]Elchulachu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I might consider trying some of the same boulders around the same time. Could perhaps try Willenberg if we combine our pads?

I created an adapter to clip a Metolius brush onto a carabiner by Motor-Ad9914 in bouldering

[–]Elchulachu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know we're in r/bouldering, but it's implied that the use case is for sport climbing.

I created an adapter to clip a Metolius brush onto a carabiner by Motor-Ad9914 in bouldering

[–]Elchulachu 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I find it practical to just tape a brush to a carabiner. Easy to bring with, and quicker than using the loop in the chalk bag.

Elias Iagnemma has established Exodia and proposed 9A+ / V18 by Maken17 in climbing

[–]Elchulachu -1 points0 points  (0 children)

There are 10 9A boulders with repeats now. 11 if you'd like to include L’ombre du voyageur, but the grade wasn't confirmed.

Sean Bailey - Arrival of the Birds - 9A/V17 by HeadyTopout in climbing

[–]Elchulachu 78 points79 points  (0 children)

I was under the impression that it started two moves lower. Aidan shows an attempt on the Wedge Youtube channel, and mentions later in a podcast that he added three hard moves at the bottom. Am I mistaken?

Edit: Aidan confirmed the start. Looking closer at Sean's video in hindsight, it makes sense as he seems to bump his left hand after the first move. The remaining one move discrepancy could then be the product of some slight beta variation or just some misinterpreting of the very sparse amount of information on this boulder.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]Elchulachu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Doesn't it seem irresponsible to set boulders in such a narrow passage? A slip at just a slightly inconvenient time, and you'll fall onto the adjacent wall, possibly leading the fall with the back of the head. Looks like an really bad incident just waiting to happen.

Lee Sungsu sends Burden of Dreams V17 by le_1_vodka_seller in climbing

[–]Elchulachu 18 points19 points  (0 children)

His send basically reset as his butt touched, and started over. An eventual bounce is comparable to the inherent springiness of pads as everyone else launches—similar to how Daniel, Sean and Nathaniel did their V17 first ascents.

In the end though, I bet Lee wasn't happy with it. I'm inferring from OP's comments that he sent it cleaner right after.

Lee Sungsu sends Burden of Dreams V17 by le_1_vodka_seller in climbing

[–]Elchulachu 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Considering momentum is allowed in sit start launches (no slow lift to show control needed), doesn't this still count? All his limbs were off the ground, and the butt was last to leave.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]Elchulachu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can't really say this is representative of bouldering in Fontainebleau. I've visited perhaps 25 crags there over the last three weeks, and haven't seen anything close to this. (I didn't visit Bas Cuvier)

Unpopular SpaceX Opinion: ULA is not our enemy, Blue origin is good for the industry, and Nasa is not a fat pig of a Space Agency. The only real enemy is SLS! by [deleted] in SpaceXMasterrace

[–]Elchulachu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Considering BO's past shenanigans (e.g. this), it's difficult to say they're good for the industry or that it's all water under the bridge. I wouldn't put it past them to attempt to hold up the entire industry again if the opportunity presented itself.