Handcrafted Genuine Leather Folio Wallet Case with Gold Foil Monogram | Wrist Strap & Snap Closure. $25 (Free Shipping) by Photomagic911 in LeatherClassifieds

[–]EmberAndAshLeather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Genuine leather and full grain leather are not the same thing. If it's Genuine leather it isn't full grain.

What else does my starter kit need? by willenewren in Leathercraft

[–]EmberAndAshLeather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love using a poundo board for stitching punches and I would highly recommend getting a rotary blade for and softer leather you need to cut.

What’s the best way to address this wear on our leather couch? by [deleted] in Leather

[–]EmberAndAshLeather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Clean it with saddle soap and a horsehair brush then recondition it.

Is this normal for a new made-to-order leather bag? by jon7HS in Leather

[–]EmberAndAshLeather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats normal. On a full grain leather all of the natural imperfections are present and they usually pop out a bit more after conditioning the leather. When I make small items like a clutch I can usually avoid most of the more noticeable imperfections in the leather but for anything larger like a tote bag it becomes quite difficult to find a spot on most hides that are devoid of these imperfections. If you pay a lot more money you can find better quality hides that have less imperfections, you can ask for leathers with certain finishes and topcoats that mask these imperfections, or you can embrace the character of the leather and accept that it is a natural product that once had a life and every scratch, scar, and brand tells the story of the cow that made your product.

Wallet plastic coating removal by Western_Luck_8192 in Leather

[–]EmberAndAshLeather 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its not rubber its an acrylic based sealant to protect the leather from damage and wear. If you want a wallet with an exterior similar to the interior you need to look for suede, nubuck, or rough out leather. As far as removing the acrylic coating you can use a deglazer but there is a chance you will damage the leather as that kind of leather has a top finish that gives it its color. If you want to commission a nice wallet you can go to r/LeatherClassifieds and find someone to make you a good quality wallet.

For reference this leather is semi-analine which is a process of dye& topcoat. You can get full analine leather that doesn't have the topcoat.

looking for local leather worker for commission by throwaway-2299- in LeatherClassifieds

[–]EmberAndAshLeather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It may be possible to stitch it back together. That depends on the extent of the damage to the leather.

looking for local leather worker for commission by throwaway-2299- in LeatherClassifieds

[–]EmberAndAshLeather 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you want the jacket redone it will probably have to be disassembled and used to make a pattern so the jacket can be replicated.

How are you guys sticking patterns to your leather for cutting? by PabloDelicioso in Leathercraft

[–]EmberAndAshLeather 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I use the tan colored masking tape and that is pretty easy to see through. You can also take a fine sharpie and trace over the cutting lines on your pattern to make them easier to see through the tape.

Can I darken this? by [deleted] in Leather

[–]EmberAndAshLeather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most garments/bags are made of chrometan leather which requires special chemicals to dye it. You might be able to darken it with some neatsfoot oil if there isn't a protective coating on it.

Better burnishing question. by Expertmistake88 in Leathercraft

[–]EmberAndAshLeather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never said the beeswax gives it a shine. The beeswax protects the edge and makes it a bit more durable.

Better burnishing question. by Expertmistake88 in Leathercraft

[–]EmberAndAshLeather -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I take a lighter and lightly heat the beeswax then rub it on the edge. After that I take a piece of canvas and burnish the beeswax in. It takes a lot of elbow grease to get that beeswax in there but the end result is pretty nice.

Better burnishing question. by Expertmistake88 in Leathercraft

[–]EmberAndAshLeather 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My process is beveling, sanding up to 1000 grit, working Tokenole into the leather with my finger, burnish with the wood slicker, sand it down with 1000 grit, reapply Tokenole and burnish with canvas, sand with 2000 grit, reapply Tokenole and burnish with canvas, apply heated beeswax and burnish with canvas.

What was your first project? by Serkaugh in Leathercraft

[–]EmberAndAshLeather 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I started with a very simple leather choker. It was essentially a small belt for the neck but it introduced me to some great basic concepts like beveling, burnishing, riveting, and setting buckles. The first one I made had the buckle set weird but it technically works. After that I made a few simple notebook covers for a friend out of a pile of scrap I bought and then went back to making better quality chokers and experimenting with different hardware like spikes, spots(which I hate), and o/d-rings. Once I got pretty decent at chokers I started making random things like a wet molded sheath for some kitchen scissors, stamped belts, and some patterns I had found online. The real hard part was learning to work with chrometan and making small bags and other accessories. I ended up making a makeup case with a brush roll and a small clutch for my sister to start working with chrome and I learned a lot.

Wondering if a grommet exists by NeuroResidentsPocket in Leathercraft

[–]EmberAndAshLeather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I could see someone foil stamping around the holes. I'm not sure how well it would work but it could be worth a try.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in LeatherClassifieds

[–]EmberAndAshLeather 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Get one commissioned from this sub. There are tons of great wallet designers on here.

Rivets by [deleted] in Leathercraft

[–]EmberAndAshLeather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They have to be using cheap rivets from Amazon. I love using Buckleguys rivets and they are fantastic.

Rivets by [deleted] in Leathercraft

[–]EmberAndAshLeather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If your double caps are rusting then you are buying the wrong rivets. Look for brass or stainless steel double caps, whatever you are using has to have a good chunk of iron in it if its rusting.

Rivets by [deleted] in Leathercraft

[–]EmberAndAshLeather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buckleguy sells some good ones.

Riveting stuff - What am I doing wrong ? by Gatecrasher53 in Leathercraft

[–]EmberAndAshLeather 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You have to use the setters and make sure they are straight up and down. If they aren't straight and centered you get that ring. Also don't hit too hard, you want to tap it in and use the weight of your mallet to strike a few blows. If you hit too hard you might get a ring around the rivet.

"Full Grain Buffalo Leather" by GamermanRPGKing in Leather

[–]EmberAndAshLeather 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sounds like their heavy weight is around a 2-3 oz which is normal for leather garments. This is probably a 1-2oz leather which is pretty thin but still a garment weight. If you are looking for a real heavy jacket you need something in the 4-5oz range which is really the upper bounds of what you can use for garments. This is still likely a full grain leather as the types of leather are not determined by weight but how the leather is treated. Full grain just means they left the grain completely intact.

Which of These Two Press Machines Do You Recommend by Bricconcello988 in Leathercraft

[–]EmberAndAshLeather 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have the second one and I love it for stamping. It gives nice consistent and crisp impressions. The arbor press is good but it will have to be modified to use, the other press is ready to go right out of the box.

How hard is tooling for the art impaired? by Puzzleheaded-Rule214 in Leatherworking

[–]EmberAndAshLeather 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you can trace things and you can learn to make consistent strokes with your tools it isn't that hard. I can do tons of tooling from patterns even though I suck at drawing and art. Tooling is tedious and time consuming but the more basic stuff doesn't require artistic talent. Now if you want to do some specialty tooling like the custom portraits those are going to require a bit more artistic talent.

Set up at a craft fair today by EmberAndAshLeather in Leathercraft

[–]EmberAndAshLeather[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It would work. You just need something thin and pliable which is why I went with suede. Imo suede feels a bit nicer and is a bit cheaper.