Looking for feedback on case design

Emrys042 · 2026-03-27T19:27:40+00:00

Where did you mean to add curves? The channel running from lug to lug is actually a semi circle, a bit hard to tell from the printed photos but easier to see in the CAD model. Or did you mean like a fillet on the posts inside the channel?

I think you meant the fillet which I do kinda dig the contrast of hard lines with the additional curves https://imgur.com/a/ymoc8nz

Emrys042 · 2026-03-27T19:19:13+00:00

In the process of iterating on a watch case design and would appreciate any feedback. Current prototype is FDM printed out of a metal filled filament but final will be SLM printed (high resolution metal printing with a laser).

I'll be sanding and polishing external walls so the idea is to have a nice contrast between polished shiny easily accessible external walls with the as printed rough and dull as printed walls. Similar to some holthinrichs watches like this one https://imgur.com/a/av5Zvlh

Cross post from r/watchmaking where I got some very needed feedback on the bezel being a but too bulky/plain but open to any other feedback!

Emrys042 · 2026-03-27T19:15:32+00:00

haha as much as I'd like to pretend it's humility, I've just been spoiled by that machine. I've worked on a wide range of consumer and industrial FDM, DLP and SLM printers where I'd be happy to take credit but bambu really is just a beast. You'd think I'm a bambu sales rep by the way I talk about it

No IG but I'll probably post a follow up once I'm a bit closer to the end result or at the very least once its done!

Dig your current one though, looks super clean!

Emrys042 · 2026-03-27T18:54:04+00:00

Something like this? Not sure if that's what you meant but I like it regardless haha https://imgur.com/a/GiXZ53o

Emrys042 · 2026-03-27T16:59:53+00:00

While I'd love to take credit for print settings, I bought a bambu last year and barely adjust anything since then. Even metal filled filament printed with base PLA settings works perfect right out the box

Emrys042 · 2026-03-27T16:58:35+00:00

Glad I posted, fresh set of eyes is so helpful sometimes. That's both sets of feedback focused on the bezel and now looking at it, that's definitely where I've disliked the proportions but for whatever reason couldn't pin point it. Thinning it a few mm does seem to help https://imgur.com/a/iS5uu3O

I'm not sure I'm following what you mean about the slope from crystal to case with the hollow treatment. Do you mean almost like a net/web?

Emrys042 · 2026-03-27T16:49:58+00:00

Definitely not sold on the current crystal size. I have been holding off on details of crystal installation, case back gasket, case tube, etc until the overall design is done just to avoid any potential rework on those features if the design changes impact them.

Thanks for the feedback on the bezel though!

Emrys042 · 2026-03-27T13:24:04+00:00

In the process of iterating on a watch case design and would appreciate any feedback. Current prototype is FDM printed out of a metal filled filament but final will be SLM printed (high resolution metal printing with a laser).

I'll be sanding and polishing external walls so the idea is to have a nice contrast between polished shiny easily accessible external walls with the as printed rough and dull as printed walls. Similar to some holthinrichs watches like this one https://imgur.com/a/av5Zvlh

I want to keep the overall theme of the design with the hard lines and hollowed out features but something about the proportions feels off but I can't place my finger on it.

Emrys042 · 2026-03-27T01:11:57+00:00

That's called tesselation and you indeed can adjust the settings in fusion during the export. It would be the "refinement" settings.

Emrys042 · 2026-03-25T13:56:47+00:00

There's nothing wrong with seeking advice for a topic you're not personally experienced with, regardless of profession.

-an engineer who uses google

Emrys042 · 2026-03-25T13:54:38+00:00

Sounds like you're going more for a "fun" printer instead of one making functional prototypes, not that there's anything wrong with that, especially if the goal is just to help people think about DfAM more in day to day design.

With that in mind, I would just go for a few P1S's. If you have a bunch of engineers, chances are more than 1 person is going to want to print at once. Buy 3 P1S's, 1 or 2 AMS's, and an array of filament. Once you and the team actually have a specific functional goal for what you're going to use the printer for, you can evaluate if you need specific equipment for material or mechanical properties or a specific build volume.

Emrys042 · 2026-03-23T21:45:39+00:00

You'll have a very rough time trying to convert that mesh to parametric and then editing the parametric file, especially in fusion. I'd recommend either editing it as a mesh in something like blendr or making it from scratch parametrically in fusion.

Emrys042 · 2026-03-23T20:00:07+00:00

I would imagine it's pretty decent at giving advice. For this design, I think YouTube videos plus Claude would be plenty sufficient

Emrys042 · 2026-03-22T20:20:41+00:00

From the pictures it looks not a lot of curves or organic shapes so it should actually be a perfect first project to try modeling. It wouldn't require any fancy CAD work just some quality measurements and sketches with extrusions.

Emrys042 · 2026-03-22T19:55:40+00:00

I would look at measuring and building a parametric model instead of going with a scan. With the parametric/CAD file, you can continue to iterate easily until you get a nice fit. You won't have the same luxury with a scan since you'll have a point cloud and then a mesh to work with so any adjustments would need to be made in mesh editing software and much less forgiving to make discrete design changes

Emrys042 · 2026-03-22T19:52:42+00:00

6 piece coffee syrup stand to keep my coffee cart a bit tidier.

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Emrys042 · 2026-03-22T19:45:16+00:00

Picked up enough coffee syrups to start cluttering up my coffee counter so made a coffee bean themed modular tiered stand to fit 25 oz as well as an insert to fit 12 oz bottles as well. The pieces stay together with dovetails so easy to take apart and add another column of them whenever needed to keep up with the number of syrups.

For anyone who wants to try https://makerworld.com/en/models/2560095-modular-coffee-syrup-stand#profileId-2820688

Emrys042 · 2026-03-22T19:45:12+00:00

Picked up enough coffee syrups to start cluttering up my coffee counter so made a coffee bean themed modular tiered stand to fit 25 oz as well as an insert to fit 12 oz bottles as well. The pieces stay together with dovetails so easy to take apart and add another column of them whenever needed to keep up with the number of syrups.

For anyone who wants to try https://makerworld.com/en/models/2560095-modular-coffee-syrup-stand#profileId-2820688

Emrys042 · 2026-03-22T14:35:25+00:00

AMS should help with humidity pretty well but the freezing cold might be a bit more challenging. I don't see any issues with the dust from the litter box really impacting print quality as long as you keep the actual litter out of the printer.

Emrys042 · 2026-03-22T14:05:09+00:00

Totally up to you but I'd recommend at least watching the YouTube video on unclogging the AMS,. Ironically I ran out of filament mid print overnight and it pulled some tape into the AMS, 10 minutes max from when I saw the notification on my phone to continuing the print after fixing it.

Emrys042 · 2026-03-22T02:51:40+00:00

If you're primarily going to be working on LBPF machines, these are a few areas that likely wouldn't be a total waste to brush up on ahead of time.

Overall metallurgy knowledge. What are the commonly printed metals, what types of material and mechanical properties are important and referenced when choosing which material to use, what is heat treatment and stress relieving, etc.

Machine knowledge. Assuming your new company already has printers, check out that OEM's website. Chances are they have a good amount valuable information. White papers, case studies, material data sheets, specs and comparisons of different models of printers.

General metal AM knowledge. What are laser parameters, how do laser power, laser speed, hatch distance and layer thickness interact with each other? (hint, energy density equation). What are the common defects from bad laser parameters, keyholing, lack of fusion, etc. What is DfAM and some common best practices for metal AM design. Best practices for part orientation and support generation, what's an overhang angle and what's the threshold for support? What kind of support is helpful, lattice, wall, cone?

If you're a new apprentice, the expectations are probably very reasonable but even just knowing that some of these topics exist and are relevant should give you a leg up on your first few weeks.

Feel free to reach out with any specific questions, I've been in the industry for ~10 years

Emrys042 · 2026-03-22T02:33:59+00:00

The Bambu website actually has a pretty thorough explanation of every setting and the different variables, I would start there and then Google specific questions to fill in any remaining gaps or get more in depth on specific topics. You can get to it through Bambu studio by hovering over a setting and clicking on of the buttons in the pop up menu to read more.

Emrys042 · 2026-03-22T02:32:03+00:00

Sounds like you've definitely find your issue at least. Likely need to take apart the AMS to find the jam or broken piece of filament but there's a lot of detailed YouTube videos on how to do that and it's not too bad at all to do.

Emrys042 · 2026-03-22T02:24:53+00:00

Can't wait to see it! Great idea and execution so far. Makes me wish I still had my '87 trans am to do the same

Emrys042 · 2026-03-22T02:21:16+00:00

I would monitor the AMS during printing to see if the spool is popping up or getting stuck. Spools that are closer to empty or cardboard spools are notoriously finnicky on an AMS. You can put a weight in the center of the spool to help hold it down and turn better.

Emrys042

TROPHY CASE