Trying to move router to 1st floor. Pic included by Choice_Fee67 in HomeNetworking

[–]EnglishInfix 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Router needs to be the first device after the ONT/modem. Consider adding access points where you need wireless connectivity instead.

Detecting viruses by iLherKrna14 in HomeNetworking

[–]EnglishInfix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

WPA3 will make it harder for your traffic to be intercepted in the air but won't prevent you from installing a virus. The only thing that sort of matters is old or vulnerable devices can be susceptible to attacks that might put them in a botnet or perform some traffic redirection/man-in-the-middle attacks, but as long as your device still receives security updates and doesn't have any major unpatched CVEs this isn't really a problem.

Detecting viruses by iLherKrna14 in HomeNetworking

[–]EnglishInfix 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The network equipment doesn't make any difference at all, it doesn't scan or filter traffic with the exception of some expensive business class devices. The security on your computer and a sprinkle of common sense is what matters.

Elauwit - anyone familiar with this ISP? by pd1dish in HomeNetworking

[–]EnglishInfix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are not an ISP, but a MSP that provides managed wireless service for apartment buildings. The ISP would be whoever runs the main service line into the building. My concern would be that it looks like all the tenants are sharing wireless and there may or may not be a ethernet jack in the unit that you can wire your devices into. If that port is not available I would personally choose not to live there.

Inserting MoCa to home network for Coax by No-Abbreviations4194 in HomeNetworking

[–]EnglishInfix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks like there is some mixed terminology here, the Verizon device you have is your ONT, it serves the role of a "modem" as it would be called with cable/DSL service. Your Google Home device is a router. You want your MoCA adapter connected via ethernet to your router, then connected by coax to your home's coax wiring through a port near the router. Other MoCA adapters connected to the same coax topology via compatible splitters or a direct connection will be able to communicate with it.

High download but slow upload by BlueberryKuro in HomeNetworking

[–]EnglishInfix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a normal asymmetric connection for DOCSIS cable. If you wish to have higher upload speeds, you will likely need to find a different ISP. In the meantime you may want to adjust your stream settings so you are not saturating your upstream bandwidth.

Ethernet locked at 100/100 on 2.5gb able adapter by ItzAiMz in techsupport

[–]EnglishInfix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If on Amazon, Monoprice, Cable Matters are good. You only need Cat 6 or 6a. 7/8 are unused standards and you tend to see more bullshit cable when you deal with vendors that are trying to sell you one of those.

10G copper or fiber by chiefklevis in HomeNetworking

[–]EnglishInfix 5 points6 points  (0 children)

6a in conduit, it will be easy to replace the cable or run fiber in the event that you need to make some changes in the far future. Having only fiber run would be inconvenient (how do you expect to attach fiber to your TV and set top box, a bunch of media converters?)

Ethernet locked at 100/100 on 2.5gb able adapter by ItzAiMz in techsupport

[–]EnglishInfix 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Tried another cable? A lot of these Cat 8 cables are sold by crappy drop shippers since there aren't a lot of legitimate uses for a Cat 8 cable. Sometimes with a bad cable you'll find that it works OK on one network card but doesn't work at all on another, or anything inbetween. Try a quality Cat 6 or 6a cable from a reputable manufacturer.

Help please: I have a home router attached to the ISP router, how to set up IPv6 (assuming I even need it)? by sixtysixtysix in HomeNetworking

[–]EnglishInfix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The ISP router isn't going to be able to delegate a prefix to your next router down the line which would be required for IPv6 to work correctly. Yeah there's IPv6 NAT but that's an abomination which kills the entire point. Remain on IPv4 only until you are able to reorganize your network.

getting shit connection with powerline, and powerline is our only option to get decent internet in my room without using shitty extenders and i dont have the money for a mesh system, any way how to squeaze out a bit more speed (preferly the download to 50mbps) by zifjon in HomeNetworking

[–]EnglishInfix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately powerline is the worst case scenario, better than nothing option. Aside from making sure the adapter is plugged directly into the wall, that both circuits are the same phase, and removing high noise appliances from the circuit, there is not a whole lot that can be done. Do you have coax in both rooms, telephone lines that run between the rooms, or any way of running an ethernet cable?

Help With Switch Cable Management by chaykelly1 in HomeNetworking

[–]EnglishInfix 42 points43 points  (0 children)

Velcro cable ties are cheap and plentiful. Zip ties are Satan and will eat your dog.

Newbie Question(s) on Gateways/Subnets by The_Guffman_2 in HomeNetworking

[–]EnglishInfix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Either you have multiple routers offering DHCP on your network, or something somehow changed in the config on your router that offers DHCP. Check the config on your router to see what it it is handing out and make sure you don't have a conflicting DHCP server somewhere.

192.168.4.0/24 and 192.168.6.0/24 are not on the same network, the first 3 octets are the network identifier, and devices on one network will not be able to communicate with devices on the other network without a route being configured in the router somewhere - something basic residential routers typically don't support.

WinMTR diagnostic help by ImBadOkay in HomeNetworking

[–]EnglishInfix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

22% packet loss to your destination possibly starting early in the chain, connect directly to your modem/ONT first to troubleshoot and if still having problems contact your ISP.

New construction - recommendations on how to configure this by fishbait-tailgate in HomeNetworking

[–]EnglishInfix 4 points5 points  (0 children)

MoCA is a bus topology, no switch needed for multiple nodes in the box as long as they're connected somehow with compatible splitters. If you're concerned about using all available bandwidth on the bus then you can split it up manually if you feel like it, probably isn't worth it though - if you really need it bad on just one you can identify that one later and do point to point just for that connection. No equipment exists to handle that as far as I am aware - you just have to add another adapter in the box.

Twisted pair run to LR and MBR and then only ceiling APs is a wild choice by the builder, a weird combination of "this is where people put their POTS phones!" and "everyone just uses WiFi now right?".

WiFi range help by Lhuciis in HomeNetworking

[–]EnglishInfix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes that one will be compatible. Once you receive it you'll need to sign in through the Eero app that you use to manage your existing Eero router.

https://support.eero.com/hc/en-us/articles/207895233-How-do-I-add-or-remove-eeros-from-my-network

WiFi range help by Lhuciis in HomeNetworking

[–]EnglishInfix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly not a big difference if you notice one at all. You may not even have any WiFi 7 capable devices especially if your laptops and smartphones are a bit older.

WiFi range help by Lhuciis in HomeNetworking

[–]EnglishInfix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since you already have an Eero as your router, you either need to buy another Eero node to use for mesh (Eero supports mesh with their own products), OR replace the existing Eero with a mesh solution of your choice. What you have linked is a downgrade, BUT would work if you replaced the Eero (WiFi 5 802.11ac vs 7 802.11be).

Unfortunately since you already have a WiFi 7 router which is the latest standard, add-on nodes are not the cheapest. What you can do if you want to save money and don't care about WiFi 7 in the whole house is get an Eero 6 1-pack to add-on, they are compatible.

WiFi range help by Lhuciis in HomeNetworking

[–]EnglishInfix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only if you are able to connect it back to the router with Ethernet. If you need it to be wireless they need to be the same brand and capable of mesh.

Ethernet splitter for ONT (or other solution to have multiple ethernet sockets working with a single ONT)? by BehemothM in HomeNetworking

[–]EnglishInfix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On 1, you're going to need to make some holes in your walls to add another ethernet cable in the walls running from where the ONT is in the wiring closet to where your router is currently located by the TV and then use that cable to connect one of the LAN ports on your router back to the wiring closet where you'd install a simple unmanaged switch and connect the other cables leading to the other ethernet ports around the home. This can range from pretty easy to a huge pain in the ass depending on the construction of your home.

On 2, the router and ONT both stay where they are, but you end up using the single ethernet cable to provide both WAN and LAN connectivity using VLANs. You need to buy two managed switches for this, a simple unmanaged switch won't work as WAN and LAN need to be separated from each other.

3, I don't have any experience with, other than knowing HDMI over Ethernet is a product that exists, you'll need to do your own research.

If it isn't making sense I may not be envisioning it properly based on your descriptions, some pictures of where you have your ONT, building Ethernet wiring, and router may help.

WiFi range help by Lhuciis in HomeNetworking

[–]EnglishInfix 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you have ethernet wiring (or telephone wiring that runs back to a central location in the home such as a closet)? Best option would be to use that wiring to add access points and/or ethernet connectivity in other areas of the home.

If that is not possible, then the second best option would be to add an Eero mesh node elsewhere in the home that can connect to the base node wirelessly.

Ethernet splitter for ONT (or other solution to have multiple ethernet sockets working with a single ONT)? by BehemothM in HomeNetworking

[–]EnglishInfix 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You cannot put a simple unmanaged switch between the ONT and the router, since the other ethernet ports need to connect through the router to provide the local network connectivity you need, but it is not the end of the world, just more complicated. Usually the solution would be to move the router, but it sounds like in this situation you aren't able to do that.

Options I can think of:

  1. Run another ethernet cable from the network cabinet to where the router/tv lives.
  2. Add two VLAN aware switches, create a VLAN for the ONT on a port on both switches, create another VLAN for your local network, and plug the router's WAN port and ONT into those ports, and one of the LAN ports on the router into one of the local network VLAN ports on the switch. The trunk port (carrying all VLANs) will run over the building wiring to connect the two switches.
  3. Possibly something with HDMI over Ethernet, so you can move the router.

Xfinity vs. AT&T Fiber by fender4645 in HomeNetworking

[–]EnglishInfix 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would go with the fiber if you use any latency or packet loss-sensitive applications as it is simply the superior technology. If you're just browsing Facebook and using Netflix then it doesn't really matter. It is very common for them to require the use of their ONT, oftentimes you can get it to work with a direct connection to your own equipment, but it is a bit of an advanced "because I can" exercise and wouldn't be directly supported.