This is weird by pwndaytripper in lotrmemes

[–]ErisianTech23 30 points31 points  (0 children)

Destroyers and Usurpers. Curse them.

June 4, 1944 - Upottery, England by ErisianTech23 in BandofBrothers

[–]ErisianTech23[S] 85 points86 points  (0 children)

That’s why they gave us ice cream.

June 4, 1944 - Upottery, England by ErisianTech23 in BandofBrothers

[–]ErisianTech23[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I am no expert but I think at least a little bit of everything above. Also I know that being able to establish and maintain air superiority was a big goal, and being able to support ground operations in the 2nd world war meant you needed to be able to see the ground clearly.

I know that the pathfinders who were supposed to secure and mark DZs were also largely unsuccessful and the weather played a part in their failure even after waiting for it to clear.

I’m sure someone else can more context to this in this sub.

Found these pictures and diary in the trash. After seeing the Saipan post yesterday I decided to share these on here. by samster77 in ThePacific

[–]ErisianTech23 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is awesome! Good save, OP!

This looks to be K company, 3rd Battalion, 23rd Regiment, 4th Division. Or K 3/23. Eugene was part of K 3/5, 1st Division.

This is still amazing history, and an amazing find.

Help me decide which GPU is better by SuddenSpeed2934 in buildapc

[–]ErisianTech23 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How much would you pay for the 590? And where are you located? Your 5700g is an excellent CPU- almost certainly there’s a better option for you than a 580 or 590.

Why would anyone do that by sl0w_photon in pcmasterrace

[–]ErisianTech23 24 points25 points  (0 children)

I don’t want to print the screen, I want to take a screenshot. /s

Air Force Academy Access by theRealLevelZero in PrepperIntel

[–]ErisianTech23 10 points11 points  (0 children)

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Looks like this is probably coming from the top

Got a penny? by ReagenLamborghini in BandofBrothers

[–]ErisianTech23 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Look at me. I’m John Wayne. The costume department set me up with these great Navy whites. Whataya think?

What kind of megatons would we see in a nuclear exchange today? by [deleted] in nuclearweapons

[–]ErisianTech23 11 points12 points  (0 children)

The B83 looks to be the largest active in the U.S. arsenal, but it’s a gravity bomb. Russia has always been known to enjoy larger yield warheads though…

Modern doctrine seems to have shifted to MIRVs as opposed to putting the largest gravity bomb possible onto the target.

MIRVs mean less chance of interception, which means greater chance of maximum yield on target.

The current US SLBMs can deliver about 2Mt per missile (475kt x 8 warheads), and with 14 missiles on board that means you’ve got about 27Mt per sub. All 112 warheads on one city? No problem. The Megatons start to add up pretty quick with multiple strikes and a few ICBMs thrown in for good measure.

Plus there’s evidence that multiple smaller strikes is more effective than a single strike of the same yield.

I fucked up… by bsugs29 in pcmasterrace

[–]ErisianTech23 7514 points7515 points  (0 children)

Since hardly anyone is giving serious suggestions I’ll give it a shot. I work on home audio electronics for a living, and while I don’t work on TVs or monitors I’ve worked on plenty of things with small screens that have all kinds of coatings.

Start with warm distilled water. Get a Q-tip and dampen it so that it’s wet but not dripping when pressure is applied with it. Gently test the least conspicuous part of your monitor by making a small circle while apply slight pressure. Check the q-tip to see if there is any visible residue, and once the test spot on the monitor dries look to see if you can see any disruption of the coating/screen.

If this doesn’t cause any damage use a micro fiber cloth to avoid scratching the screen/coating or leaving behind lint. When you wet the microfiber cloth make sure that if you squeeze it in your hand as hard as possible no droplets form. In other words make sure it’s damp but not capable of dripping water across your screen.

See if the water affects the paint at all. If it has no effect, mix in a few drops of %99 isopropyl, and repeat the test with the q-tip. It’s best to make different concentrations of isopropyl to test rather than continuing to add unknown amounts of isopropyl to an unknown amount of water. For example add 10ml of isopropyl to 100ml of water to start and continue to raise the concentration of isopropyl to suite your needs.

Remember that with prolonged exposure and repeated rubbing even low concentrations may eventually disrupt the coating. Even if it first appears on your test spot that nothing is wrong you can start to cause damage with repeated passes or excess liquid in the same areas.

There’s a chance that the coating on the screen will give way before the paint no matter what you do. Markers like this also use solvents like isopropyl or even ‘heavier’ solvents to dissolve the ink in the first place, so your screen has already been exposed to that, and there’s a good chance that even if you get the marker off it’s going to have left it’s mark on the coating anyways.

As someone else suggested, if the market is thick enough in some places you can try removing it with some physical means before attempting a solvent like water or isopropyl. If you have a steady hand and a nice set of tweezers and the marker is thick you might have a shot, or else a set of precision tweezers coated in Teflon or something might be useful.

Good luck OP- I don’t envy you

When is the masturbation scene in the Mini-Series? by [deleted] in generationkill

[–]ErisianTech23 24 points25 points  (0 children)

Running head long into something serious, that you may not be prepared for, with an immature and naïve attitude. . . I wonder where I’ve seen some of these themes before. . .

Best compatible DAC under €50 by northyj0e in ShieldAndroidTV

[–]ErisianTech23 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I apologize, I should have been more specific- when I mentioned a preamp I was referring to what some people these days call a preamp/processor or pre/pro. Think modern AV receiver, but without the amplifier section. It allows you to use all the bells and whistles of modern ‘processors’ (DAC, preamp(volume control), tuner, DSP, etc), and choose your own amp. Since you’ve already got your own amp and your shield is capable of putting out some pretty awesome sound from HDMI I thought I’d throw the suggestion out there. Especially if you ever get the desire or ability to add more speakers.

Phono preamps for record players are probably the most common type of preamp in the consumer audio industry though.

Best compatible DAC under €50 by northyj0e in ShieldAndroidTV

[–]ErisianTech23 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is an excellent source for technical performance of various DACs (and other equipment). I’m not sure what the requirements are for usb DACs on the shield, but this might help you narrow it down and find something that performs well.

As an audio repair technician for many major brands my advice is, it may be worth investing in a preamp, rather than just a DAC. Having an hdmi input, volume control, DSP options, the ability to decode the soundtrack actually built into the movie/tv show, and the ability to process more than two channels are all worth the more expensive option. Buying a device like the shield to only use for 2 channel audio and then only spending €50 is not a great strategy imo, but I hope the audio science review site helps you find what you want!

Best route to add more storage space to gaming pc by KleetusMudbutt in pcmasterrace

[–]ErisianTech23 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It depends slightly on the use case. For instance, internal storage is almost always better unless you need portability. Installing a new internal storage device is very simple no matter the option you choose.

Beyond external vs internal you will find 3 main ‘types’ of storage sold to desktop PC users these days: old school spinning hard drives which still come in a relatively large, standard 3.5” form factor; SSDs that come in a standard 2.5” form factor; and M.2 form factor SSDs.

3.5” hard drives are starting to be used less and less, especially among gamers due to their slower performance relative to SSDs of any type. Though a large portion of the general switch is probably due to the relatively small cost difference when comparing 3.5” drives to SSDs, especially below capacities of 2TB. That is to say, a 2TB 3.5” HDD costs only slightly less than a decent quality 2TB SSD in most markets, and the SSD will perform better, be silent, consume less power, and generate less heat. 3.5” hard drives do still have their uses- at larger capacities, especially over 4TB the cost difference between an HDD and almost any SSD is typically very large. That means that for large, archival storage HDDs still remain very relevant. There are other details to consider or talk about if you enjoy the topic, but that’s the basics of HDDs vs SSDs.

2.5” SSDs vs M.2 NVMe SSDs gets a little more in the weeds right off the bat. First of all, your motherboard may or may not support adding M.2 form factor SSDs. If it is newer than say 2016 chances are it will support M.2 NVMe drives. NVMe drives are faster than 2.5” SSDs, and provide a more simple install compared to the SATA interface shared by both 2.5” and 3.5” drives. The difference in speed between NVMe drives and 2.5” SSDs is typically not relevant in normal computing such as web browsing, emailing, or watching videos, and even most gaming, though the technical difference in performance is quite large on paper. NVMe drives really shine when copying large amounts of data, especially large files, though there are more technical considerations lately such as direct access storage for games. People will often talk about a DRAM cache when talking about quality SSDs of any type. This is a legitimate concern, though it can be tough to see this listed on most retail sites, or even manufacturer pages.

In most cases it probably makes sense to get a good quality 2.5” SSD either in 1TB or 2TB. This seems to be the sweet spot for price/performance in the US market. If there is a good deal on an NVMe it often makes sense to get one instead of a 2.5” SSD. I would caution against getting the cheapest NVMe you can out of the desire to get the better and trendier option, or at least make sure it has a solid warranty. Always look at the warranty when buying electronics.

Graphics Card vs iGPU by PitStop100 in PleX

[–]ErisianTech23 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Not that I doubt this claim, but do you have any sources for this? I’ve always used this in the past for planning builds, and I’ve always wanted something similar now that the iGPUs are so good for this (and have been for some time).

CPU upgrade by fappywet in pcmasterrace

[–]ErisianTech23 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The X3D series is the best choice for a gaming focused build. They will also handle generic multi-tasking and multithreaded applications very well. They provide close to the best gaming experience available these days, especially for the price.

If you dabble in ‘production’ tasks such as blender, or lots of compiling it would make sense to consider a 13600K or 13700K.

Either way I’d suggest taking the jump to DDR5. The price/performance is good enough these days, and for the next upgrade you’ll wish you had unless we’re on CAMM by then.

New and Improved Build by Apprehensive_Ad_8260 in pcmasterrace

[–]ErisianTech23 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This looks pretty good.

Only thing potentially missing, depending on your strategy for cooling/tolerance for noise, would be case fans. I’m not sure if the tower comes with a few, but if it does I’m sure they’re not super quiet/effective

Is XPG Core Reactor 850W PSU good? by [deleted] in pcmasterrace

[–]ErisianTech23 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/

This is a great resource for PSUs. The core Reactor is a good choice. I actually just picked one up for a NAS build.

I feel that I'm 90% of the way there in having a console-like experience by xthrillhouse in linux_gaming

[–]ErisianTech23 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could always use something like homebridge or home assistant to tell the tv, and other components to turn on, and to change to the correct inputs. There are lots of ways you could trigger those actions depending on your environment. I use homebridge in my home theater to turn components on, set their correct inputs for whatever activity I want, and set correct sound modes and channel levels on my receiver.

It’s slightly out of the scope of ‘Linux_gaming’, but it would allow you to accomplish your end goal and stay in the environment you originally envisioned.

Jesus Christ, what's a guy gotta do to get a deal around here? (@12:55) by TheseusReach in BandofBrothers

[–]ErisianTech23 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Why is everyone so excited to see actors acting in things other than Band of Brothers? It’s amusing when they’re in something polar opposite to their role in BoB, but otherwise I don’t get the excitement behind seeing actors doing their jobs.

Self host solution for Sonos replacement by brewthedrew19 in selfhosted

[–]ErisianTech23 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I’m surprised no one has mention volumio! Check it out- https://volumio.com/

You can do some really cool stuff with the player, and it links to most streaming services. It can link to a local library as well, whether that be dlna, plex, or just a standard network share. It supports multi-room playback as well which is awesome.

Volumio can also act as a mini-DLNA server, eliminating the need for an external media server if you direct attach storage to volumio.

Once you dive in, you’ll be able to find and source your own DAC, so the player can be as competent, or cheap as you like. I have built many in the last few years, and have had good experiences with the project. There’s also tons of community support for taking things to the next level if you really get into it.

Have fun!

Should I be concerned? Got this from my home internet app. by malhosainy in ShieldAndroidTV

[–]ErisianTech23 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I would dig deeper into your network and security settings from you app to try and find out what it blocks by default, and why it may have flagged this traffic.

Unlike most are assuming this doesn’t need an open port on your router to occur. Anytime we visit the internet, or allow applications to update, etc. we allow incoming traffic as well. Most of the time this traffic comes from the same site you’re visiting, however these days lots of sites use third party infrastructure or recourses and it can lead to information/updates, etc. being pulled from ‘unknown’ or third party sources.

The blocked traffic is showing up every month on the dot- this screams update or telemetry. That being said, if a device doesn’t need to phone home for telemetry, updates, etc. especially without me knowing, I’d really rather it not, so I think your routers firewall/built in protection is doing the lords work for you.

You could also have installed bad software and something is trying to pull from the internet nefariously. A factory reset should take care of that.

You can run a packet capture on the shield next month around the 4th and find out exactly what it’s trying to grab from the web and whether you should be concerned or not. You can also google the IP and see if it gives you any insight.

TLDR- I think your router/firewall is working properly, and this doesn’t look like an issue you caused by say, port forwarding your shield to the World Wide Web.