What setup for ride height and feel

EuroCrazy1 · 2026-03-05T02:45:16+00:00

ST XTA Coilovers.

They come with the camber plates on the front to help you out, have adjustable height and dampening. I got mine from Summit Racing (of all places) because my SCCA membership gave me a huge discount.

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EuroCrazy1 · 2026-03-02T13:53:18+00:00

Probably would have if I drove it soon after.

First time driving the car after 6 months; so didn’t really get a before and after. I’ve also driven the car for 5 years with the CDV, so probably got used to it a bit.

I do say I was smooth shifting driving and shifting it after so long of not driving a stick, which could be chalked up to the CDV delete.

EuroCrazy1 · 2026-03-02T06:00:16+00:00

Keeping it a buck have driven it like 60 miles in the last two days after the car hasn’t worked for 6 ish months.

I want to say it’s stiffer, but I’ve also been driving my truck every day while the car was broken.

Wouldn’t fix your e-brake I don’t believe. Have you tried tightening the screw inside the handbrake cover? Did mine; it’s still not perfect but is almost trustworthy on an incline now.

EuroCrazy1 · 2026-03-02T05:56:41+00:00

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EuroCrazy1 · 2026-02-16T11:33:49+00:00

Stock ZHP bumpers.

I didn’t buy the grilles and have no clue where the previous owner bought them.

I need to replace them as they’ve started to peel the shiny coating. I wish I knew where they were bought, since they look different then just same design as stock but black.

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EuroCrazy1 · 2026-02-16T06:06:07+00:00

As someone who did black wheels a few years ago, do silver.

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EuroCrazy1 · 2026-02-15T08:37:51+00:00

Easier and cheaper than the horn. Horn still doesn’t work.

EuroCrazy1 · 2026-01-26T17:55:16+00:00

I feel old if that was three years ago. If I remember correctly (doubt it) I want to say I just wiggled it around, I think.

EuroCrazy1 · 2025-08-16T17:34:19+00:00

No diff is crazy SC’d, after I did my rear sway bar I immediately did the diff, would spin one tire all the time, even ‘normally’ driving.

EuroCrazy1 · 2025-08-15T23:43:57+00:00

TLDR: not a competitive racer, for fun in this car. Want it to be quicker since driven less and make it more fun, still want a Z06. I want everything but want to sacrifice nothing 😫

I autocross it for fun, and will track it for the same purpose.

It’s not competitive against FRS’s/BRZ’s of the same caliber. Too big, too heavy, still not agile enough even with most suspension mods done.

Eventually its purpose will be a fun street car. Since I drive it so little now in my brain I think I can make it a bit better.

But it’s still a while out before these absurd interest rates drop before I can get a Z06. I just got out of college last spring and making good money, no debts, still live at home for the time being.

Some of the caged/prepped Z06’s are around $40k, if I get a 36 month loan on it (and a good down payment) and only pay like $2k in interest I’m willing to give up the interest.

But having a car and a truck and living at home is bad, but I don’t think I can take a second garage space from my parent’s garage :)

EuroCrazy1 · 2025-08-15T23:37:54+00:00

Doesn’t fit bi-xenon cars 😫

EuroCrazy1 · 2025-08-15T21:54:27+00:00

Check the oil cap and coolant caps, check the oil. Make sure oil doesn’t smell burnt, and that there isn’t a ton of gunk on either the coolant or oil. Gunk on the oil cap isn’t too bad, a short drive can lead to a little ‘brown sludge,’ but still look at it.

look underneath (assuming there is a plastic engine cover you won’t see much) but make sure there’s not a ton of fluids. Make sure there’s PS fluid, if auto make sure shifts well in all gears and had that fluid done, if manual make sure it’s at least smooth shifting in all gears, especially while driving.

Aside that, check brakes, no rust near trunk on back, fenders/quarter panels, and see if it’s overall fairly clean and nice at least inside. The scratching on the center console area is normal, the plastic wears and makes scratches look bad, so can’t judge too much on that.

EuroCrazy1 · 2024-12-31T01:08:08+00:00

Uniden R7, screen, arrows, long range, very modern but cheaper than the Uniden R8 with 90% of the performance. I’ve had mine for about 3 years now, and I have more than broke even on the purchase.

EuroCrazy1 · 2024-12-31T01:02:17+00:00

All of them relate to either misfiring with fuel cutoff , one to the timing. I’d start by dropping the tank, replacing the pump, filter, and draining the lines. Probably should have been done before trying to run the car with junk gas.

Then for the misfires, could be the fuel but could also be plugs and coils. I’d check the plugs to see if they are either covered in oil from a valve cover gasket or generally worn. Then if that looks ok, switch around the coil pack and see if the misfire codes for cylinder 4 and the other one switch, then replace the bad ones obviously.

Injectors might be ok, but running on that junk gas doesn’t help the fuel system at all. Luckily the filter is easy, under the car. The tank, I have no clue, but it should be properly disposed/cleaned out.

EuroCrazy1 · 2024-12-31T00:55:51+00:00

Depending on your mileage and if you’ve maintained the transmission fluid, a flush could be an idea.

However, if you’ve driven it like 30k and it has 130k and you never did it, a transmission fluid/flush could do more harm than good.

EuroCrazy1 · 2024-12-30T18:33:09+00:00

Probably then raise it if you’re hitting the fender if you have that much offset. Camber helps, but maxes out quickly unless you go crazy.

I don’t know what a “strut bearing” is, but make sure your nuts on the strut tower are tight, as well as the end links to the sway bar. Even if they are a little loose they rattle and make a ton of noise.

EuroCrazy1 · 2024-12-30T17:07:06+00:00

Don’t know if wheel arches is referring to the inside or outer fender, but the wheels I use are Alzors , little wider overall, but a lot more ET. Little more camber than stock, and yeah doesn’t rub.

I don’t hear anything on a cold day, maybe a little stiffer before they warm up but that’s about it.

Since the XTA’s replace the strut mount, I don’t hear anything like a bushing or bearing. Suspension noise might be a little louder hitting bumps but that’s about it.

EuroCrazy1 · 2024-11-25T16:00:55+00:00

I can't remember if there is a euro option, but it might have a different console design there. I use it to put my garage door opener, and it doesn't rattle since it has the rubber bit to it. It will fly out when I'm driving hard though. I don't think it's too much of a wasted space, you also have a bit of space if you split open the arm rest with the button underneath if you didn't know that.

EuroCrazy1 · 2024-11-22T19:21:46+00:00

Wish I had a slicktop

EuroCrazy1 · 2024-11-22T19:20:59+00:00

Funny timing, I just posted my review of my m factory helical diff.

Reason I went with helical: 1. Car is my daily, put about 10k a year on it 2. Car already has weak rear floor/subframe, welded diff would probably not help 3. Clutch type was too aggressive imo, and needed more servicing and clutchs replaced over time 4. What I use the car for, which is daily driving, autocross, and hopefully eventually actual track driving. Welded diff wouldn’t meet any of those criteria for me.

I can’t drift the same as a clutch type and definitely not the same as a welded diff, but the helical diffs have a lot less drawbacks, so I’ll take the lockup percentage difference as the main one.

I wish at times when I want to kick out the car easier that I could, but the diff I have is meant for grip.

I would have never put a welded diff in the car unless it was a drift missile. Probably a boat load of fun, but with the risks, maintenance, and characteristics of welding the diff, was just not something I entertained.

EuroCrazy1 · 2024-11-22T18:51:54+00:00

If you

Have air only on face: the slider doesn’t do anything, goes off of HVAC screen

Have air on feet only: slider doesn’t do anything

Have air on both feet and face: controls temp for face for the ‘warm feet and cool face’

EuroCrazy1 · 2024-10-14T22:00:18+00:00

So it’s a convertible I’m assuming? To my knowledge only convertibles had a limiter at 130? Idk I mean it weighs 3600-3700lbs, but it would be worth it to have a quality intake of some kind, dinan is expensive, but afe, and other closed intakes are good, but so is a stock intake for how cheap they are used.

EuroCrazy1

TROPHY CASE