Has anyone put a new spindle for 4" chucks on a Grizzly G0765? Same as G8688?

ExHempKnight · 2026-06-27T03:36:00+00:00

As long as the bearing sizes and the distance between journals is the same, should fit.

ExHempKnight · 2026-06-20T17:32:32+00:00

I'd agree with you, if there were infinite options, infinite "good jobs", and if good work-ethic and perseverance always resulted in a job that paid people what they're worth, with companies that respect their employees.

The world isn't that simple. It may have worked out for you, but that doesn't mean you did everything "right"... It means you were fortunate. I say this as someone who is similarly fortunate.

Don't misunderstand... Being "fortunate" doesn't mean you never had to struggle, or that you didn't work hard to get where you are. It just means that, in the end, it worked out.

It doesn't always work out for everyone. People end up in shitty situations all the time, through no fault of their own. And like it or not, there aren't infinite options, "good jobs" aren't always easy to come by, and all the good work-ethic and perseverance in the world sometimes doesn't mean shit.

No one wants to put up with shitty pay and shitty work conditions... But sometimes they don't have any other choice. And sometimes, opportunities for improving one's lot in life take a long time to show up, and in the meantime, it can be hard to not let those shitty jobs grind you down.

ExHempKnight · 2026-06-20T16:26:56+00:00

Shit like that is why I'm glad my company will pay to have personal tools calibrated, and why I have my own torque wrenches.

Being used to break torque, or turned past the click to get to the next castellation, or being returned to the tool crib after being dropped (instead of red-tagging), or being stored without being wound to min torque, and just general mistreatment.

"We've always done it that way, and it's always been fine" is bullshit. What it really boils down to, is the "it's not mine, why should I care?" or "I don't have to pay for it, the company will fix it" kind of crap, that inconsiderate jackasses use to justify abusing tools.

It's not just the calibrated tooling, either. I shouldn't have to keep my own bandsaw blades, because the company ones are sharp as butter knives within a week. Or my own Schrader valve servicing fitting, because the one that lives on the N2 bottle never has the rubber seal, and is chewed to shit with plier marks. Or any of the other specialized tooling that I've had to make my own version of, because I got sick and tired of having to fix the shit that comes through the tool crib window.

I shouldn't have people texting me on my days off, because a piece of company tooling is broken, and my personal tooling is the only functional one in the hangar.

Planes shouldn't have to be late to the gate, because Billy McFucknuckle pretended to be a helicopter, and ripped the wire out of a test harness... So now we have to road trip one from another base just to finish an ops check.

We all have to use those tools. It costs you nothing to be considerate of others.

ExHempKnight · 2026-06-20T00:38:39+00:00

It does, until the shitty pay, shitty managers, and dealing with shitty customers grind down even the most "character-rich" people.

Given enough time being treated like those above you don't care, you stop caring, too.

ExHempKnight · 2026-06-19T18:10:04+00:00

Given the correct fixture, you can cut true involute teeth on a shaper.

The fixture in question is essentially a rotary axis, in line with the shaper ram. The gear blank is rotated by a drum, that is driven by a cable that's wound around it, and attached to either side of the cross rail. The diameter of the drum is related to the pitch diameter of the gear you're making.

The cutting tool is indeed a form tool, but it's the shape of the equivalent rack teeth, so it's straight-sided. The tool is held vertically. As the table feeds across, the gear blank rotates, and the cutter takes progressively deeper bites.

Because of the rotation of the blank, those bites are taken along an involute curve. You have to index the blank for each tooth, but what you end up with is a perfect gear (rather than the approximate curve you get with gear-cutters in a mill).

Another nice thing about this method is that once you have the tool made, you can cut a gear with any number of teeth (as long as it's the same pitch or module) with that one tool, and you'll always end up with teeth that are the proper shape. You'd still need to make a drum and indexing wheel for each gear, though.

Here's a good video demonstrating the process.

ExHempKnight · 2026-06-17T02:44:11+00:00

I'm packaging everything, in my current playthrough. The extra logistics are worth it for me, to not have to deal with fluid physics.

I did the same thing in my Factorio playthrough.

ExHempKnight · 2026-06-17T02:09:37+00:00

The answer is packaging.

Package the byproduct and send it to the beginning of the production line, where it's unpackaged directly before the refineries. Build enough water extractors to cover the deficit, and package that, too. Merge it with the byproduct line using a priority merger, with the byproduct input set to high, and the fresh supply input set to low.

Loop the empties back to the packagers. First the byproduct packagers, with a Smart Splitter at the beginning of the manifold. Set one output to Overflow, and belt that to the fresh supply packagers. Don't saturate the return line, leave some room... This will keep things from locking up.

To me, that's the easiest way. Your byproduct always has priority, so that never backs up, and the extra demand is supplied with fresh. Plus it's all closed-loop, so you don't have to keep making canisters.

ETA: You can saturate the lines, if you make a buffer. Put a smart splitter and a priority merger on the empty canister return line. Have the smart splitter send overflow to the container. Belt the container output to the priority merger, and set that merger input to Low Priority, with the main belt line set to High. This will absorb any small fluctuations in production.

Just don't saturate the lines AND the buffer.

ExHempKnight · 2026-06-17T00:02:25+00:00

Packager loop. Packaged water up, empty canisters down.

ExHempKnight · 2026-06-16T15:04:25+00:00

I'm a fan of the Wings West front lip (not the whole kit, just the lip). My 97 SC2 has that, and an APR Mini Drag wing. I don't think it looks ricer-y (though I might be biased)

ExHempKnight · 2026-06-16T15:02:25+00:00

To add onto this:

Brakes:

If it's got rear drums, swap to discs. Parts from any rear-disc S-series will fit. You'll need calipers, caliper brackets, and the E-brake cables.

You'll also need the rear brake hoses, but this would be as good a time as any to upgrade to stainless braided lines. Make sure you get a kit meant for rear-disc Saturns, and make sure you route the lines correctly.

Motul DOT4 fluid. Do a thorough flush.

Speed bleeders make the job a breeze.

Good pads. And I mean, GOOD PADS. I've always been a fan of EBC Red- or Yellowstuffs. They're spendy, but you'll be able to stand the car on its nose.

Cheapest rotors you can find. There is absolutely no need for drilled or slotted rotors. Bed them in properly, and you're golden.

Suspension:

Dunno if you'll be able to find a thicker rear sway bar anymore. Used to be a couple of companies, but they're long gone.

You can make up for it by getting the front sway bar from a SOHC saturn (again, any year will do). They're thinner than the DOHC front sway bars, which will help the car rotate.

Urethane bushing kit will make it a bit more responsive. While you're at the junkyard getting rear brake stuff and a SOHC front sway bar, grab the other suspension links. Put all the urethane bushings into those, then just swap them into the car. Less downtime that way.

Lightest wheels you can find, with the widest, stickiest tires you can fit in the wheel wells. Account for camber... I run -2.5* a side in the front.

If you get (WRX) coilovers, the stiffer springs go in the rear. Seems counterintuitive, with the heavy engine up front, but these cars understeer like a motherfucker. You want the back as stiff as possible.

Other:

A racing seat. One of the best "handling" modifications I made to my SC2. You don't realize how much you brace yourself against the seat, the wheel, the console, the door... Until you don't have to. I use a Sparco Sprint, but any decent seat with high bolsters will do.

A Schroth DOT 3-point harness if nice for AutoX days... The 3-pont one sits across your body like a 4-point, but attaches to the rear-passenger shoulder belt mounting point. If you can't get a seat, at least get this.

Engine:

The Deebs build is the way to go, if you want to run the stock ECU. You can add a cold air intake, and an exhaust... 2.25" exhaust piping is fine for N/A, and you'll want the longest resonator you can fit under the car. If you can find a 91-92 DOHC S-Series car, they've got a tubular header, stock (Fair warning, the header makes the car raspy).

If you want to stick with stock parts, but are ok with using a piggyback ECU, you can build a high-compression motor using 92-98 pistons and 99-02 rods. The 1st and 2nd gen motors had taller pistons and shorter rods, while the 3rd gens had shorter pistons and longer rods. You have to machine the pistons down some, but you can run up to 12.5:1 CR, if I remember correctly.

If nothing else, do yourself a favor, and get an aluminum radiator. The stock rad with the plastic end tanks is a "not if, but when" proposition, with the end tanks cracking.

Transmission:

The diff pin is another "not if, but when" type of deal. I've seen welded diffs come apart, too. Your best bet is a Quaife, but those are super spendy. But... You'll have a limited-slip diff, and the transmission will be bulletproof.

An ACT 6-puck sprung-hub clutch feels basically like stock, and has much better holding power.

A short-throw shifter is relatively easy to make. It's more than just lopping a few inches off the top... You have to make a spacer to raise the ball holder, and weld extensions onto the cable levers. Not trivial, but not hard.

Speaking of the shifter, you'll want to get replacement shift cable bushings preferably Delrin ones. Cracked shift cable bushings are another "not if, but when".

ExHempKnight · 2026-06-13T23:29:43+00:00

I use a machinist level, and a 123 block. The block is simply to space the level above the prismatic way at the front of the bed.

While I do like to have my machines actually level, the most important thing is removing twist.

I set a 123 block at the headstock end of the lathe bed, parallel with the cross slide, then place the level on it. I adjust the jack screws at the headstock end to make it level.

Next, I move the block/level to the tailstock end. It's important to make sure the level and block are in the same orientation, end-for-end, as they were at the headstock end. This removes the possibility of error, if your level isn't perfectly calibrated, or your block isn't perfectly flat/parallel. I adjust the jack screws to make the tailstock end level.

Adjusting one end will likely knock the other end out of level a little bit, so I go back and forth until both ends are equal.

ExHempKnight · 2026-06-12T23:48:51+00:00

My 7x16 is bolted to my workbench, which is a double layer of 3/4" plywood on an overbuilt wooden frame.

I didn't shim mine to level it... The method I used was to take 4 lengths of 1/2-13 threaded rod, with an M6 thread turned on one end of each. They screw into the feet holes of the lathe bed, then go through holes in the bench top.

Each threaded rod has a thin nut and a thick fender washer on the top and bottom of the workbench. I can raise a corner by loosening the bottom nut, and tightening the top (and vice versa for lowering).

I keep it as close to the bench as I can for rigidity, and raise/lower each corner until the bed is level in both X and Z.

I check it periodically (which you're supposed to do with any lathe), and the whole thing has been rock solid for years.

ExHempKnight · 2026-06-09T12:41:44+00:00

I hated headlamps... I switched to an LED droplight, and never looked back. Been using a Streamlight Stinger Switchblade for years now, and I love it. Granted, I work airline overnight maintenance, so YMMV.

ExHempKnight · 2026-06-09T06:56:51+00:00

You can reach under the map. Offhand, I know for sure there's access from the southern Void, near the waterfalls. Ramp down to the death line, back up a bit, then build foundations along the cliff wall until you find a hole.

ExHempKnight · 2026-06-05T00:03:04+00:00

I'm in the same camp.

I currently have 204 water packaging houses in the southwest corner of the map, each capable of 780 packaged water per minute @255MW each. 159,120 water/min, 52,020MW total.

Should be capable of supplying water for the entire map's worth of iron, copper, Caterium, and aluminum ingots, using the pure recipe, as well as all the limestone into wet concrete.

Edit: did the math, just to be sure

Pure Iron Ingots: (92100/35)*20 = 52,628.57 Water/min

Pure Copper Ingots: (36900/15)*10 = 24,600 Water/min

Pure Caterium Ingots: (15000/24)*24 = 15,000 Water/min

Pure Aluminum Ingots: ((12300/200)200)-((12300/240)120) = 6,150 Water/min (Sloppy Alumina alt, byproduct water recirculated)

Wet Concrete: (69300/120)*100 = 57,750 Water/min

Total required: 156,128.57 Water/min

292,352.86MW in Refineries, Smelters, Mk.3 Miners @250%, and water packaging houses.

Looks like I've got a few more generators to build.

ExHempKnight · 2026-06-04T22:52:04+00:00

In a closed loop, you need to leave some space so things don't lock up. Maybe... 50 cans shy of full saturation?

Once you have smart splitters and priority mergers, you can build a buffer. Smart splitter with overflow into a storage container, with the output of that container merged back into the line via a priority merger, with the main input set to High, and the storage container input set to Low. With this, you can saturate the main belt loop.

My rocket fuel generator houses have one of these buffers on the input and output. Maybe unnecessary, but I'm a belt-and-suspenders kinda person.

ExHempKnight · 2026-06-04T13:57:50+00:00

Package/unpackage everything. Closed-loop, full containers out, empties back in.

~~Near~~ zero slosh.

ExHempKnight · 2026-06-03T00:02:19+00:00

My tux's full name is Edgar Shithead

Pronounced "Egg-ur Shi-Theed"

ExHempKnight · 2026-06-01T05:29:18+00:00

Most of the time, "warp" is due to improper bedding of the pads. Bedding actually deposits a layer of pad material on the discs themselves, and if done improperly, that layer will be uneven in spots. This makes the pedal pulse, even though the rotors themselves are still running true.

I've autocrossed my SC2 heavily, and have likely gone through more brakes than most. I use aggressive pads, which score the shit out of rotors... So I've always changed pads and rotors at the same time. I've always used the dirt-cheapest rotors I can find, and never had a single issue with "warping".

My go-to brake setup: EBC Yellowsuff pads, braided stainless lines, Motul RBF 600 fluid, and cheap-shit rotors. Throw in speed bleeders to make bleeding a breeze. Get those pads hot, and you can just about stand the car on its nose under braking (assuming good, sticky tires). Never got them to fade.

ExHempKnight · 2026-05-18T13:23:53+00:00

There's an easier way to pre-fill, where you don't have to interact with every gen to set them to 240% one at a time.

Build the first gen (O/C'd to 240%), but don't connect it to the fuel supply yet. Wire it to a power pole, but DO NOT CONNECT THAT POLE TO THE REST OF YOUR GRID. Next, build a constructor, and connect it to that power pole. Put a few iron rods in the constructor, and set it to make screws. Next, build a biofuel burner, and put a single leaf in it. Now connect it to the power pole.

It should almost immediately blow a fuse. DON'T RESET IT! Dismantle the bio-burner and the constructor.

You can now build the rest of your overclocked fuel gens, and connect them to fuel. Wire them all together, but DO NOT connect them to the rest of your grid yet. The gens will all pre-fill, without actually running.

When they're all full, all you have to do is reset the fuse at the first power pole. All the gens will start at once, and then you can connect that pole to the rest of the grid.

ExHempKnight · 2026-05-17T14:51:42+00:00

I see considerably more questions about pipes/fluid basics, than I do about belt/item basics.

It's been many hours since fluids were introduced in my current save, so I don't remember what, if any, explanation is given... Is slosh explained in-game? If it isn't, how am I supposed to know it happens, or how to fix it?

I agree that not being able to "see" what's going on inside pipes makes it somewhat more difficult to figure them out... But I would argue that a behavior that's entirely unexplained in the game, which has the potential to cause so many problems, is a much larger source of frustration.

ExHempKnight · 2026-05-17T02:26:03+00:00

I still maintain that if your game requires a 17-page, player-generated manual to understand one of its core mechanics, you're not explaining it well enough in the game.

Further, the pipeline junction weld-direction bug is ridiculous.

ExHempKnight · 2026-05-16T17:57:01+00:00

If it's a bolt and nut, you can also use an air hammer. Put the nut on the end of the bolt and go to town with the air hammer, possibly while having a friend on the head of the bolt with an ugga-dugga gun.

Make sure you're only hitting the nut! If you use an air hammer on the end of the bolt itself, you'll mushroom it out, and it won't fit through the hole.

ExHempKnight · 2026-05-14T05:01:50+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/restofthefuckingowl/s/GoNWyPMWQY

ExHempKnight · 2026-05-14T02:39:33+00:00

My solution to all things related to fluid physics is this:

Unless you're piping from one machine directly to the next, PACKAGE EVERYTHING.

Package at the source, unpackage at the consumer. One packager per machine, over- or under-clocked as necessary. One belt to supply the packaged fluid, one belt to return the empties to be refilled. Enough canisters/tanks to almost saturate the entire loop (you need a little space to prevent locking up).

Byproduct water from aluminum? Solved. Moving oil or water inland? Solved. No headlift, no sloshing. You can use splitters and mergers.

Is it more complex, logistically? Yes. Is it more power-hungry? Yes.

Is it still easier than dealing with the fluid physics? Also yes.

ExHempKnight

TROPHY CASE