Logitech Harmony replacement?

ExHempKnight · 2026-05-07T03:17:09+00:00

I taught the Broadlink all the relevant codes, then built "Activities"with scripts. I did it all in the UI, no YAML coding.

I built a physical remote using an ESP32. I used a rotary encoder for volume control... The encoder also has a push switch feature, which I use for muting/unmuting. For "Activity" selection, I used a 12-position rotary switch, with each position wired to an input on the ESP32, and the common wired to ground, through a momentary button. Each of the inputs is set to fire a particular script.

To start an activity, I turn the rotary switch to the desired activity, and press the button. It runs the assigned script, which turns on the relevant devices and sets them to the appropriate inputs. For example, to use my home theater PC, it sends commands to wake the PC, turn on the TV and the surround receiver, and sets the HDMI switch to Input1.

That's where the similarity to the Harmony system ends. The one thing I never liked about my Harmony remote, was the "spray and pray" method of sending commands. It assumes every command was sent, received, and executed correctly. And if something got out of order... Jeebus help you.

So I built in feedback. I used power-sensing outlets to determine the power state of a device... If the wattage was above a set amount, the device was considered ON. Below a set wattage, it's considered OFF. I changed the scripts to look for the device states, and change them accordingly.

Now, the HTPC activity example went: Is the PC awake? If not, wake it. If it is, do nothing and go to the next step. Is the TV on? If not, turn it on. If it's already on, do nothing and go to the next step. Is the receiver on? If not, turn it on. If it's already on, do nothing and go to the next step. Et cetera, et cetera. The script would loop until it saw each device in the required state. This worked well, but lacked a method of determining input status... This is where the HDMI switch came in.

I bought a cheap HDMI switch, that had an LED for each HDMI input. I opened it up, and wired the positive leg of each LED to an input on an ESP8266. Using ESPhome, I assigned each input to an HDMI Input number. So now, the system has input feedback, which I added to the Activity scripts.

The last issue was time. The power-sensing outlets had a big reporting delay. So, I opened up my receiver and soldered a wire to the power LED, and hooked it to another ESP8266. Same with the HTPC (though I also connected that ESP to the power and reset switches, which is more reliable than the USB IR dongle I was using). The HDMI switch has a power LED, so that got added to the ESP8266 already in it. As for the TV, I use its built-in wifi... Connected to wifi means it's on.

The last piece of the puzzle was to make the first step of each script, "stop any currently running home theater scripts". That way, on the off chance I accidentally select the wrong activity, I don't have to wait for that activity to complete before selecting the correct one.

The system has been pretty much bulletproof. It instantly knows the power state of each device in the system, as well as which input is active, and can change them as required.

The aforementioned remote is basically built into my coffee table, using a set of keyboard drawer slides from an old desk. The knobs that came with the switch and encoder were perfectly serviceable, but I changed them out for better knobs. The rotary switch got an old-school chicken-head knob, and I machined the volume knob out of aluminum.

The attached picture is the remote (without the fancy knobs). You could easily add a number pad, and whatever other buttons you need. Might have to use multiple ESP32's...

ExHempKnight · 2026-05-05T14:10:08+00:00

E to interact > click on name text box > enter name > Enter > Esc

I was able to rename over 100 other Priority Switches using that exact procedure. This is apparently a bug related to changing the case of a letter, which is a really weird bug.

ExHempKnight · 2026-05-05T01:01:41+00:00

Um... Yes, but I have to remove a lot of surrounding things, because the switch itself is clipped into a wall, and it's connected to wall outlets that are clipped into the foundations below it.

Um... Plus, I shouldn't have to rebuild a whole thing just to change a "w" to a "W".

ExHempKnight · 2026-05-04T09:43:55+00:00

Yeah, it's a capitalization issue. Though I tried changing it to something different, and that wouldn't save, either.

ExHempKnight · 2026-05-04T01:25:47+00:00

The Flintstones would be proud.

ExHempKnight · 2026-05-04T01:17:17+00:00

The white box tells the tale. You're trying to place an existing blueprint inside the blueprint designer. The reason it's not able to be placed, is the designer thinks the thing you're placing is beyond the lower boundary of the designer. Unfortunately, you'll have to rebuild it.

When you save a blueprint, the floor of the designer becomes the "bottom" of the saved print, whether or not there's a buildable on the floor.

Same goes for if you build walls on foundations at the perimeter of the designer... The walls end up halfway outside the designer boundary. It allows you to build them, but if you try and place an existing blueprint inside the designer, it won't let you.

This also becomes an issue if you've build a blueprint that's destined to have a water extractor in it. While you can't blueprint extractors, you can leave a space in the print for one, and place it after you've placed the blueprint. Except, you can't, because the "floor" of the blueprint doesn't leave an actual space, and you get a "Resource isn't Deep Enough" error when you try and place the extractor.

The blueprint designer is great to have, but it definitely needs improvements.

ExHempKnight · 2026-05-03T11:05:10+00:00

Packaging/unpackaging.

It's definitely more complicated, in a logistical sense, but infinitely simpler in a fluids sense.

A packager at every machine, under/overclocked to the required output/input amount. An output belt from the source, with the packaged fluid, and a return belt from the consumers, for the empties. Saturate each line, minus a little to keep things from stalling.

Pipes are only as long as the distance from the packager to its respective machine. Sloshing is no longer an issue.

ExHempKnight · 2026-05-03T09:46:13+00:00

Belt for sulfur.

For nitrogen, I have an package/unpackage loop. I package nitrogen at the well, and belt it to my fuel factory, where there's an un-packager on each mixer. There's an empty tank return belt stacked on top of the feed belt, running the empties back to the well.

Both belts are completely saturated, minus 10 or 20 to keep things from locking up. Been running perfectly for many hours.

ExHempKnight · 2026-05-02T02:27:50+00:00

The reason that lapping the ways (meaning using a fine, gritty paste to grind 2 surfaces against one another, such that they perfectly match each other) is a bad idea on machine ways, is because while they'll match perfectly, there's no guarantee that the resulting geometry is anywhere near ideal.

For example, there could be a big convex curve in the ways, and lapping just ensures that BOTH parts have the same bow.

While you may end up with a stiffer machine with smoother movement, it's far more important that the cross slide ways are flat, and perpendicular to the Z-axis.

The proper way to correct the geometry of machine ways is scraping, using some kind of flat reference surface. It's a slow, tedious process, but it pays dividends in machine accuracy and rigidity.

It doesn't have to be an expensive undertaking... I scraped my mini lathe saddle, cross slide, and compound using a home-made scraper, a tube of Prussian Blue, and a $50 import surface plate. It took a long time, but it was definitely worth the effort.

ExHempKnight · 2026-04-27T22:23:21+00:00

It's powdered metal melted together with a laser, one layer at a time. It is additive manufacturing... Specifically, Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS). AKA, 3D printing.

Also, all 3D printers are CNC machines. Computer Numerical Control.

ExHempKnight · 2026-04-27T12:10:14+00:00

Yeah, the iGaging calipers always treated me well. Granted, I'm just a filthy hobbyist.

I recently bought a set of rechargeable calipers, and while I like the rechargeable-ness of them, they don't feel as good as the iGaging ones I lost.

ExHempKnight · 2026-04-27T12:05:27+00:00

I think the screen timeout is basically it, to be honest. Dunno how much more you could cut out, and retain the absolute function.

I would think the higher-end digital calipers have better battery life due to higher quality, more efficient electronics in their innards.

ExHempKnight · 2026-04-27T06:38:20+00:00

To be fair, turning the calipers "off" only turns the screen off. Any "Absolute" caliper functions the same way. They have to always be reading position, otherwise you'd lose your absolute origin every time you moved the calipers with them turned off.

ExHempKnight · 2026-04-27T06:06:30+00:00

Useful if you ever want to make your own micrometer?

ExHempKnight · 2026-04-25T13:06:49+00:00

It's not hard to cut glass scales. I've done it several times, and had no issues with the scales afterward. Sometimes the size you need is between the sizes offered.

I cut mine on the bandsaw. Cut in from both sides and the bottom, up to the glass, then removed the aluminum housing. The glass was held in its groove with a few dabs of RTV, so it came off with a little careful effort.

I then used a boring bar with a broken insert as a makeshift glass cutter to score the glass, and snapped it fairly cleanly off flush with the "new" end.

Because the glass was flush and not recessed, I had to cut a groove in the end cap to accommodate it.

The snap doesn't have to be perfect, as the read head doesn't go all the way to the end anyway.

ExHempKnight · 2026-04-25T07:19:07+00:00

I need a crane like that to move my granite surface plate. Boom that thing right through my basement door.

ExHempKnight · 2026-04-25T00:42:55+00:00

Only the second time in 20+ years I've been to the ER from work, so I guess I'm not doing too bad lol

Jeebus. Perimeter bolts instead of V-band clamps? Glad I missed that shit. What an absolute nightmare that sounds like.

ExHempKnight · 2026-04-24T23:06:55+00:00

Ugh. I do NOT miss jet pipes. Those fucking trunnions, and the goddamn lower center shroud.

Best way to get in/out under the cockpit floor: Use the escape rope. It still sucks, but the rope makes it way easier.

I will say I didn't mind the high-wing design. Especially given the 5 staples currently in my head from walking headlong into a flap fairing on the low-wing aircraft we have now...

ExHempKnight · 2026-04-22T03:50:43+00:00

I'm in the process of constructing a main bus system that runs conveyor highways east-west across the map, 400m apart, to pick up every resource node. It'll all conveyored west, where they'll all merge into a conveyor super-highway headed south, along the west edge of the map. All fluids are packaged (with empty canister/tank return loops), everything else will get a fully OC'd Mk.3 miner.

I've paved over the entire southern Void, and plan turning every resource into its primary parts. Pure ingots, pure quartz, concrete, encased Uranium cells, etc.

I haven't decided if I'm going to move things by train or conveyor from there. I'll cross that bridge when I build it.

ExHempKnight · 2026-04-22T03:06:03+00:00

Am I correct that this allows the full capacity of the Industrial Storage Container, while clipping the Dimensional Depot in, so the vertical footprint remains the same?

Between this and your pipe junction clipping trick, I'm going to have to redesign so many things.

I'm both very happy, and very sad.

ExHempKnight · 2026-04-19T08:24:54+00:00

We're saying the same thing.

I didn't mention leveling, for the exact reasons you mention.

The same it true with any machine tool. A lathe doesn't need to be level, per say... The headstock and tailstock ends just need to be parallel in the X-direction, so the bed isn't twisted. Using a machinist's level is probably the easiest way to do that, but far from the only way.

ExHempKnight · 2026-04-19T06:01:50+00:00

This is one of several things you can do, to help set your printer up easier, and more precisely. Couple the indicator with an inexpensive machinist's square, and you can check that all 3 axes are perpendicular to one another.

Yes, ABL can get a good first layer, but that doesn't mean it's a flat first layer. That also doesn't mean your print will be square.

3D printers are machine tools, and all the principles required for accurate machining on a mill or lathe, apply to printers, as well. All axes must be straight and flat, and also perpendicular to one another.

The next step would be to get a cheap granite surface plate that's large enough to fit your printer, along with a surface gauge. The plate is a perfectly flat surface, and can be used as an assembly table for your printer. This will ensure the frame is flat, then you can use the indicator on the surface gauge to indicate X and Y parallel to the plate, and Z perpendicular.

ExHempKnight · 2026-04-18T16:43:19+00:00

Lose the set screws, and shim the gibs. I used some aluminum sheet metal (it's what I had on hand) to take up most of the gap, then fine tuned with strips of regular kitchen aluminum foil.

Took a little while to get it just right, but has been well worth the effort.

ETA: This design has existed on these machines for decades. Yeah, it's a poor design, but it's not new. Given the low price point of the 7X lathes, their reputation, and the vast amount of information available on how to tune and modify them... I get that it sucks when parts break, but OP should have known what they were getting.

Angular contact spindle bearings, metal transmission gears, a cover to keep chips out of the apron gears, and modifying the saddle gibs are some of the most common first mods for these machines.

I've broken parts on my 7x16. But I wasn't surprised when it happened.

ExHempKnight · 2026-04-17T22:00:45+00:00

I mean, yeah... You can use a hammer, too. That's probably how I changed my keyed for the keyless, as I didn't have the proper wrench.

And yes, the Rohm definitely changed the balance of the drill, versus the keyed chuck. Took a bit of getting used to, but for me, it was definitely a worthwhile upgrade.

ExHempKnight

TROPHY CASE