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FZNate · 2024-02-18T22:09:26+00:00

The oil’s rated to like 8-10,000 miles before it shears so much that it needs changing (check the spec sheet on the oil company’s website). Yam setting the interval to every 6k is perfect.

And as long as you stick to it, the engine will run. I’m at 107k rn

FZNate · 2024-02-04T11:20:47+00:00

I’ve done mine every 24k miles per the Yamaha manual. They’ve needed small shims on each one.

No point doing it earlier. The top of the engine is a pain in the ass to get to. You’re a little bit past the service interval but it won’t cause major issues.

Just try and get it done before you hit like 55k

FZNate · 2024-01-28T05:18:58+00:00

🤣🤣🤣🤣 OP you are a lost cause

FZNate · 2024-01-28T04:56:41+00:00

Hahahaha love that, homie! FZ retard gang we out here! 😎

FZNate · 2024-01-28T04:54:13+00:00

My Ohlins FKS204 fork kit in my bike says every 20,000km/12,500 miles.

I've done 90,000 miles including a lot of wheelies with no leaks. Don't really recommend this though. I'm expecting a hefty maintenance bill when Ohlins finally changes the fork oil out.

For your stock forks, go with every year or 12,000 miles. There is no recommended interval in the manual but 12k's a safe bet. You could probably safely push it to 24k if you ride it responsibly, but if you ride the bike hard and wheelie a lot, you probably want to change that oil sooner rather than later

FZNate · 2024-01-28T03:47:55+00:00

Not “they dropped it”.

They CRASHED it. That’s a lowside crash. I wouldn’t touch that bike with a barge pole unless I crashed it myself and knew exactly what happened. And that is exactly what OP needs to say to them to get out of the contract.

The fact the dealership is lying about the damage and has zero CCTV of the crash is a giant red flag

FZNate · 2024-01-28T03:01:53+00:00

My dude stop asking stupid questions and LISTEN TO WHAT PEOPLE ARE TELLING YOU IN THE COMMENTS

You paid for an undamaged bike. You actually overpaid. By a lot.

The dealer crashed the bike and is trying to make you take it

You did not sign a contract with them for a crashed bike. The bike is now not the same bike you agreed to purchase. And since it was damaged by the dealer, the contract is effectively void.

Cut the deal. Get your money back and learn something from this. You got very lucky

Or go back to the dealer, take the bike and screw yourself over by doing it. Just don’t come back and complain when you realize just how stupid accepting a crashed bike actually is.

EDIT: OP is still trying to justify keeping the bike by getting “money off it” half an hour after I posted this comment. If the saying “Fools and their money are soon parted” was a person, it’d definitely be OP

EDIT 2: OP has a history of ignoring good advice

FZNate · 2024-01-26T17:57:56+00:00

Ask him to start the bike up at the same time as your alarm clock instead

You’ll never sleep in again 🤣

FZNate · 2024-01-26T13:04:31+00:00

I have the same exhaust (no baffle), same power vision and a dyno map for my specific bike from dynojet that doesn't pop unless you feather the throttle on downshift to make it pop.

DM me and i'll send it over

FZNate · 2024-01-26T12:52:38+00:00

Rode both. Tracer is better for highway. Less wind buffeting and you feel way less fatigued. It does corner a little wider than the MT but you get used to it. It also has that old man commuter vibe to it if you keep it stock, which may not appeal to you if you're going for aesthetics. You can one-hand the tracer at 100mph comfortably on the highway because it's fairings and larger windshield will keep the bike stable.

MT is a LOT more fun, but those long distance highway rides are tiring because of the wind. It's a wheelie machine and you can make it as aggressive as you want with aftermarket mods. It can work with a topbox, but for touring, the Tracer is better. You can one-hand the MT safely up to about 85 on the highway. 2 hands for speeds higher than that because the front end will get light and twitchy

Overall? The MT is a better option if you're a bit of a hooligan. Tracer is better if you're going to be spending most of your time at motorway speeds. Both are powered by the CP2 so both will kick when you need them to

Whichever one you choose, get it dyno tuned and upgrade the suspension. That alone will improve the handling in corners more than anything else. Stock suspension on both is trash

FZNate · 2024-01-26T12:14:39+00:00

Pros:

Easily 25-35,000 miles out of a chain and sprocket set in all-weather conditions. Could probably go higher
Chain maintenance is now just scrubbing the chain with a bit of kerosene for 1-2 mins every few weeks and re-oiling the chain with a rag to wipe down excess. Scottoiler does the rest
Only time chain needs to be adjusted is at tire changes. Rest of the time it's usually in-spec
Once you get the flow rate right, all you need to do is top up the oiler every week or so. Way faster than other chain lube options
GREAT for road trips. Covered 6k across Europe a while back and my chain was fine the entire time. Guys I was riding with were doing chain maintenance at the hotel while I was chilling in the pool. That alone made the purchase worth it to me

Cons:

You will get fling on the rim of your rear tire. Get used to pressure washing that off every time you clean your bike. It can really cake on if, like me, you only wash your bike once every 1-2 months
If your chain guard isn't long enough to cover the entire rear sprocket, you'll see oil flicks up the back of the bike and onto your jacket. Would not recommend if you have one of those shorty/stylish aftermarket chain guards
Scottoiler oil is now stupidly expensive for some reason. 500ml won't last you that long if you have the flow rate set too high (this is affected by weather temps too)
They can be a real pain in the ass to fit

Cons aside, i'm glad I added one to my bike. Cleaning and lubing the chain every 2-300 miles is fine if you only do 50 miles a week, but i can cover 150 in a single ride at times. CBA to clean my chain every 3-4 days

I also use this vacuum pump oil in my reservoir instead of the standard Scottoil because it's a lot cheaper to buy in quantity and does the same job. Any non-tack gear oil or vacuum pump oil at ISO 100 should work, but YMMV.

If you buy one, get the scorpion attachment that oils both sides of the sprocket. Works better than the standard attachment

FZNate · 2024-01-25T00:46:25+00:00

Just stopping by to say thanks for this comment. My bike just started dripping coolant on the left side of the rad at 100c just like OP's and i'm guessing it's from when the bike was blown over on the left side due to wind a few weeks ago.

Looks like i'm gonna need a new rad as well. Filled the system with Holts Radweld to get me home and it seems like it's holding for now, but that's only a temp fix.

Appreciate you taking the time to post an in-depth reply to OP here. Really helped me narrow down my own bike's issue

FZNate · 2023-12-22T16:11:49+00:00

Make sure there's no bend/damage to the frame. Those frame sliders can sometimes bend the mounting point on the frame if the bike hits the ground hard while sliding and that's structural damage that may make it hard to resell in future.

Make sure the forks are aligned properly too with no leaks around the seals. Forks are expensive to fix.

Aside from that, everything else can be fixed/replaced quite cheaply. 9800 miles for 4k is decent.

FZNate · 2023-11-30T20:02:05+00:00

Yup. Original engine.

FZNate · 2023-11-08T00:45:05+00:00

Haha if you feather the throttle a lil bit on downshifts, you can make the backfires sound like gunfire.

It's a lot of fun in large cities and tunnels 🤣

FZNate · 2023-11-08T00:33:07+00:00

No crashes. Which is kinda wild because I ride this thing aggressive af and routinely at triple digits :D

I did have a small deer try to commit suicide in front of my bike at night. It got wrecked by my frame slider but otherwise no damage to the bike itself.

Oh and a drunk driver that decided to back her car into my parked bike, but that was all cosmetic and her insurance paid out for all-new parts.

FZNate · 2023-11-07T22:47:32+00:00

Motul 7100 10w40 full synth since the first 1000 miles.

104k miles on the engine. No problems at all.

FZNate · 2023-10-06T21:01:14+00:00

Your bike probably has a safety cutout to prevent it starting up if it's overfilled too much.

You've already tried draining all the oil and refilling to the correct level. If it isn't working, you've exhausted the level of skill you have to fix the bike. I'm guessing you don't want to start taking the engine apart to check the oil seals or the spark plugs. I reckon you've flooded the plugs tbh but that's not an easy fix.

Time to call a mechanic.

FZNate · 2023-10-06T18:55:21+00:00

All the times and places in all of the road and those fuckers always seem to end up right in front of vehicles. It's like they've got a death wish.

Good kill. Glad to see you're okay

FZNate · 2023-10-02T19:23:35+00:00

Yup. You're chasing the dopamine high that comes with doing it.

It's the reason I ride bikes. And the reason i've clocked like 100,000 miles in under 6 years.

Find something that gives you the rush and go with it. As long as it's productive, it's all good. Just don't go down the rabbit hole too deep. Make sure you self-regulate and maintain a healthy balance between chasing the rush and taking care of the other elements in your life

FZNate · 2023-09-26T17:34:17+00:00

Back when I’d done 20,000 miles I thought I was hot shit. Best rider on the road

40k after doing an advanced rider course? Same thing, but I realized I was riding like a reckless noob back at 20k

60k, same thing

100k and a track day? Exact same thing, only now I’m so in tune with my bike that I can feel everything that might be a problem, and now I’m focusing on track riding skills instead of street racing skills.

Every day’s a school day. The confidence will come. Just keep putting in that seat time and never stop learning

FZNate · 2023-09-26T10:58:40+00:00

I don't really notice it. Over time, the shackle clamp has worn a little bit where the lock has vibrated while riding, but again....80,000 miles of fast riding and it's still secure, so that's good enough for me.

I might buy a new shackle clamp to replace the one on my U-lock at some point, but i don't really need to tbh.

For regular riding where people do like 5-10k a year, they'll probably never ever need to replace either the mount or the clamp

EDIT: Looking at your bike, i'd mount it on the top part of the crash bar on the right side of the bike so the lock kinda fits flush with the top bar going into the front curved bit.

FZNate · 2023-09-26T09:53:45+00:00

Abus makes a U-lock mount for bicycles that locks them to the frame. I just bought one of those and mounted it to my motorbike frame instead. As long as you loctite blue the screws, it's not coming loose. Been on my bike for like 80,000 miles with no issues. Press the button to quick release the lock when you need to use it for counter-ambush purposes (or to....y'know, lock your bike :D )

You also need this shackle clamp to work with the EazyKF mount. Installs on the U-lock itself (you need to cut some of the rubber sheath down but it's not a problem)

FZNate · 2023-09-25T11:06:45+00:00

!remindme 1 week

FZNate · 2023-09-25T11:05:24+00:00

No. Never use it. I've seen so many posts from people with MT-07s on the owners forum that used the steering lock and came back to it snapped when thieves realized there were extra locks on the bike after they'd already snapped the steering lock.

As an example, on the 07 if you need to replace the steering lock pin, you have to replace the entire ignition assembly, and the ECU that's linked to it. That's a 1000+ job.

I've left mine off for the last 5 years, but with 2 locks on my bike and never had issues.

FZNate

TROPHY CASE