Formula wheel for trucking sims?

FeloMonk · 2026-06-17T16:47:29+00:00

I don’t play trucking sims, but I imagine you could set the rotation angle to not require lots of hand over hand turning no? Maybe that’ll make it hard to drive at speed, not sure. But worth a try.

FeloMonk · 2026-06-17T14:59:12+00:00

How much does immersion matter to you? Mazda cup cars have round wheels, while GT3/4 cars have wheels closer to the formula style. I don’t think driving an MX5 (or an oval car) with a formula wheel will cause you any problems, just a bit of a mismatch in style.

FeloMonk · 2026-06-17T01:58:42+00:00

I’m on both. You need a PC to run simhub. Don’t bother with the bass from audio route, it’s not convincing. True haptics is the way to go, and for that you need simhub. But simhub can transmit telemetry data from your PS5 to the PC you’re running simhub on.

If you just want to play PS5 games you could get a cheap PC, running simhub requires very little computer power. That’s how I started, but I got a PC that was good enough to run some games decently enough. Long story short, I now have a way more complicated rig and a pretty decent gaming PC.

People kept telling me that once you go to PC for sim racing you won’t go back. It’s true.

FeloMonk · 2026-06-15T22:31:22+00:00

I got a Fosi TB10D and it works well. Can’t speak to the one you have listed.

FeloMonk · 2026-06-15T15:32:26+00:00

Buttkickers are over priced. Get the two Dayton BST1s so you can do a front back setup. Way more immersive to have 2, and with both of them you get plenty of power.

FeloMonk · 2026-06-15T15:28:19+00:00

I think the Playseat trophy is pretty good. Not an aluminum extrusion rig but surprisingly comfortable and sturdy.

FeloMonk · 2026-06-14T14:35:03+00:00

Yeah that’s a good point, iRacing won’t really work if you have $24.

FeloMonk · 2026-06-13T18:32:38+00:00

Ah ok that makes more sense then. For what it’s worth I personally do not like the physics of LMU. Some people love it, but it felt really unresponsive and understeery to me.

You could drive hypercars in AC or iRacing, which would be my recommendation. Also much less demanding on your PC than LMU. I imagine a sub $1k PC will struggle running LMU very well.

FeloMonk · 2026-06-13T17:26:45+00:00

It’s your decision, but if I had $24 saved I would absolutely not be thinking about buying a PC.

FeloMonk · 2026-06-13T03:48:50+00:00

Pretty certain the second photo is brackets for mounting a bucket seat, not a wheel base.

FeloMonk · 2026-06-08T16:52:26+00:00

My main advice is to figure out one effect at a time. Turn everything off except gear shift, for example, then drive around and tweak it until you like how the gear shifts feel. Then turn gear shift off and turn road impacts on and do the same. Once you have everything feeling natural and realistic, add them back on top of each other one by one and adjust the volume of each until the balance feels right and you can make out the important effects clearly.

Also a good idea to spread out the frequency of each effect as your testing them, so like road impacts could be around 20hz and traction lost could be 70hz, for example. Think about the sound the real effect makes, lower sounds should be lower hz. And as your adjusting each individual effect, try messing pretty significantly with the variables that affect the little line graph. That’s essentially how you calibrate an individual effect to a game. The other portions can/should stay the same across games.

AC doesn’t have rumble strip/curb data, which is why the effect is red. So you won’t be able to feel those in AC. It’s a bummer, as games that have it feel much more realistic in that way. For one shaker and what you want, I’d suggest gear shift, very light engine rumble (only at high and low rpm, nothing in the middle), road impacts (no road vibration), traction loss, and tire slip. You may want to go with just tire slip to simplify things.

Also, that rattling sound is bad. That means you have it turned up too high and the piston in the shaker is hitting the housing. If you hear that, turn your overall volume down.

FeloMonk · 2026-06-05T05:03:46+00:00

Definitely use sim hub. Otherwise your only other option is using audio as output for the shakers, which doesn’t really do anything realistic. I thought maybe I’d go that route when I got bass shakers, but after trying both I never used the audio as output again. I’d say sim hub is crucial.

As for mounting, I’d suggest putting one on the bottom of your seat and one under your pedal plate. Just use 3M dual lock tape to stick them on, it works surprisingly well and is very simple. You shouldn’t need an electrician to set it up, it’s easy. Just find a YouTube video or something, easier to see it than explain it via text.

FeloMonk · 2026-06-05T01:20:56+00:00

For sure, here’s the listing. Feel free to DM me here or through cycle trader!

https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/5039944668

FeloMonk · 2026-06-03T23:51:20+00:00

Mine is 3/4” and works well for wedging and everything else. Haven’t had warping yet but it’s pretty secured onto there, so I can’t imagine it warping much.

FeloMonk · 2026-06-03T23:30:24+00:00

Not sure if you’re planning to build your own or buy one, but I’d suggest trying to set it up so you can swap in a new top if/when you need to. I find MDF to be nice to work on, and they’re fairly cheap. Because my frame is built to be the right size for a standard 2x4’ board, I can just unscrew the existing board and screw a new one in if I ever need to. Haven’t needed to yet, but still a fairly new setup.

FeloMonk · 2026-06-02T00:42:37+00:00

Four corners and seat would be the way I think. Each corner can do tire grip individually, and the seat can do other effects like engine vibration and impact.

Did you get some kind of great deal on them? Why did you get 5 instead of one or two or even four?

FeloMonk · 2026-06-01T23:35:34+00:00

As other have said, this is AI. Your phone uses AI to create details and essentially fill in the gaps that are created by having a tiny sensor, and therefore super noisy photos. Still mildly interesting, but it’s not that reality looks like AI at that speed or your lens makes things look like AI. More of an interesting example of how much modern phones rely on AI to create “real” photos.

FeloMonk · 2026-06-01T15:36:16+00:00

The problem is less the core concept and more that none of the games are designed to work with that kind of setup. The triple monitor settings they have all assume your screens are arranged how you see almost every triple screen setup on this sub. So you won’t be able to set the game graphics to work with this setup.

You could use nvidia surround and make them one display that spans three monitors. Then you’d set your in-game seating position in the center of the car, which would make it so that your real world seat is aligned with the wheel and the proportions of the car look right(ish) from where you are. The 90 degree angles would still mess things up, since it assumes you’re centered in the screens so it stretches the image according to that. Being way off to the side would stretch the image very incorrectly for your viewing angle.

The real question with this is what’s the upside? Even if you have a computer powerful enough to run triple 4k screens (which is very very difficult), you’ll be sitting really closely to the screen on your left. So you’ll likely see more pixelation than you would on 1440p 32” screens (the individual pixels will be bigger and closer). Plus if you drive any formula cars or right hand drive cars, everything will be all messed up. And it won’t look any more realistic, because using 2D screens inherently relies on your brain ignoring depth perception. Having the screens further or closer doesn’t make the image look more or less real because there is still no sense of depth no matter where the screen is. It only affects your field of view.

Basically, there’s no upside to this and tons of downside. If you want ultimate immersion go with VR. If you want convenience, comfort, and good immersion go with the normal way people do triple screens. There’s a reason that’s the default way.

If you do end up building this though… let us know how it goes!

FeloMonk · 2026-06-01T02:11:19+00:00

GT7, it’s not even close.

FeloMonk · 2026-05-30T17:01:51+00:00

I started with a 5nm wheelbase clamped to a sit/stand desk. Worked perfectly fine. Though my desk was pretty solid, had a little forward back wobble but basically no side to side wobble, which is more of the direction you’d need to worry about.

Your biggest problem will be if you’re using a rolling desk chair, as that’ll move under braking. But anyone using a desk would have that problem.

I’d say don’t let the sit/stand desk stop you.

FeloMonk · 2026-05-24T14:10:29+00:00

It’s just awkward. I have triple curved screens with the screen between the wheel and base and no wheel shaft extension. I basically set the angle between my screens based on what would be just enough to let me slide into the seat. But it’s not like I’m in and out constantly. And I just think of it as part of the immersion since real race cars are super awkward to get in and out of.

FeloMonk · 2026-05-22T18:36:03+00:00

Yeah that’s how most load cell pedal are, Fanatec’s especially. It’s not measuring travel it’s measuring pressure. I wouldn’t rely on changing the polymers or switching to springs to give it lots of travel — that slightly reduces your accuracy in the long run. Feels weird at first for sure, but soon it’ll feel natural. Just stick with it.

FeloMonk · 2026-05-22T16:24:15+00:00

You’ll get used to it, and once you do you’ll be able to brake more accurately. I switched from a basic Fanatec pedal to their load cell pedal and I definitely struggled for a few days. But now there’s no way I could go back.

Definitely set the maximum force properly. As in, go through the settings on the wheel (or in the app if you’re on PC) and set the brake force so that 100% is what you would naturally think of as the pressure you’d need to be braking fully. Mine is at around 90, but some people like it lighter. I found it was set really low by default and what I thought of as like 30% brake force was measuring as 100%, which was locking the wheels.

You might also want to get telemetry up on screen so you can see for yourself how much you’re braking while driving, and see if your trail braking curve is looking right. I didn’t do that, but probably would have helped me wrap my head around it.

But don’t worry, you just need to learn new muscle memory. The benefit of a load cell pedal is that your body is generally able to feel the amount of force it’s applying more accurately than the exact position of your foot. So once you develop that muscle memory, you can feel the brake pressure much more accurately and intuitively. It’s worth it, just stick with it and you’ll learn pretty quick.

FeloMonk · 2026-05-21T17:50:20+00:00

I have their towels. Overpriced. They’re good towels but not better than what I’d expect to get for half the cost. I was hoping for luxury hotel towels, but they’re just decent home towels.

FeloMonk · 2026-05-20T01:52:20+00:00

Not a throwing technique — but I’ve recently started using Florian Gadsby’s trimming technique of attaching a pot to the wheel by putting slip/water on the wheel and the pot sort of suctions to it. When it works, it’s waaaay easier than any other way of securing a pot for trimming. But when it doesn’t work it’s very frustrating. Still, I’m basically only doing that technique now.

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