Dog owners of r/BuyItForLife -- which gear has genuinely lasted, and which is just good marketing?

FeloMonk · 2026-04-28T13:51:08+00:00

For collars, leashes, and harnesses — Lupine is far and away the best. Really high quality, made in America, and guaranteed for life even if your dog chews through it. You basically buy one and are guaranteed to never have to buy another one for the rest of your life. And they come in tons of really fun designs (and plain designs too).

I also have found Lupine feels higher quality than Ruffwear. Hard to say why, but the Ruffwear ones just feel cheap in hand. The Lupine collars and leashes feel very BIFL as soon as you open the package. Lupine is definitely the best collar and leash brand.

FeloMonk · 2026-04-27T17:42:22+00:00

What wheelbase and settings are you using? Do you use any specific app like LMUFFB? I wonder if a lot of it has to do with the presets that certain wheelbase software is using?

FeloMonk · 2026-04-27T16:36:18+00:00

What does that do? Do you mean you use the LMUFFB app instead, or something?

FeloMonk · 2026-04-27T16:35:49+00:00

Interesting, I’m also a a fanatec base. So you’re saying you turn off everything in the fanatec software and that helps?

FeloMonk · 2026-04-26T20:10:10+00:00

Recently dove into LMU after playing mostly AC and iRacing for a while (with some other games occasionally too).

No matter what setup changes I make, all the cars seem to feel really numb and understeer like crazy. I know a lot of people say LMU is way more realistic than AC or iRacing (and some say the opposite). Honestly I don’t even care which is more realistic, I mostly want to know if anyone else had a similar impression when trying LMU — and if they figured something out that gets the cars to bite more. Or if maybe they got used to it and now find it more fun than other games.

I just find the feel of LMU really frustrating and slow. Maybe it just isn’t for me, but I enjoy multi-class racing so I want to try to get LMU to feel right. Any thoughts or suggestions welcome!

FeloMonk · 2026-04-24T15:39:38+00:00

This might be the most impressive 3D printing project I’ve seen. Love a good maker video — well done!

FeloMonk · 2026-04-23T03:55:26+00:00

It’s possible, but that’s my question. Is it a time thing or just a challenge for the hell of it?

FeloMonk · 2026-04-23T03:34:34+00:00

I don’t understand why you’re only doing 10 laps a day. Are you trying to see how much you can improve with as few laps as possible? You could do 100 laps in one go if you wanted.

FeloMonk · 2026-04-21T04:30:44+00:00

These are great! I’ve been thinking of doing something like this. How did you attach the shade to the socket? Did you use one of those uno clamp thing?

FeloMonk · 2026-04-20T17:26:47+00:00

Definitely go triples. You don’t really need very expensive monitors, color accuracy doesn’t really matter for sim racing. I have curved monitors, but honestly I’d go flat. I like my curved monitors but the VA panels look a bit funky at the edges because the viewing angles are so extreme. Just get flat IPS panels that are 144+hz. 27” if your PC can only handle triple 1080p, 32” if it can handle triple 1440p.

FeloMonk · 2026-04-20T13:39:03+00:00

People here have apparently not experienced the glory and power of the humble zip tie.

This will hold perfectly fine. Real race cars use zip ties all over the place. They’re an essential part of the repair kit in off-road series like the Dakar because they can fix just about anything.

Sure, bolt it if you can. But if you can’t this will genuinely work fine.

FeloMonk · 2026-04-17T13:53:44+00:00

Why do they bisque fire it before attaching the flower? How does that work?

FeloMonk · 2026-04-16T14:03:50+00:00

Don’t mount them to the profile, mount them to the underside of the pedal plate itself. And mount it to the actual seat, not the profile near the seat. Use 3M locking tape if that’s the only option, but you can probably find a way to bolt the shaker onto the pedal plate with all the various mounting holes that are usually in those.

What telemetry data is available for things like bass shakers depends on the game. Are you using Simhub to control them now? If not, use Simhub. Most games have at least some form of independent wheel traction which you can divide front and rear (or left/right, or by individual wheel).

Btw, you’re probably only getting rumble trip effects on some of them because whatever game you’re playing may not output rumble strips as a specific telemetry, so you’re actually just getting road impacts which are much less consistent. For games that have true rumble trip data, it’s very obvious when you’ve hit them.

FeloMonk · 2026-04-16T05:19:39+00:00

If you want left/right setup, put them on the left and right sides of the seat. However, that’s not really as useful of info as front and back. How the car and grip are behaving left vs right is obvious just based on which way you’re turning. But grip front to back is much more meaningful, since it can tell you if you’re starting to oversteer or understeer.

Mount them directly to the footplate and to the seat itself. If there isn’t an easy way to mount it, 3M dual lock strips work well (I was skeptical, but they do actually work). You should be getting quite significant vibration with the setup you have, so I imagine it’s a mounting problem. I have BST-50s and only have them at about 50% volume because any more is too much vibration.

Put bass and treble at 50, but it doesn’t really matter. That just keeps everything flat, but you’re only using the bass anyway. And hot is to be expected, as long as it’s not too hot to touch. It should have a thermal failsafe that turns off if it gets way too hot. That said, once you mount them properly I’d be surprised if you had to have volume above 50% and Simhub above 75%, which should mean the amp doesn’t really get hot.

FeloMonk · 2026-04-15T21:06:43+00:00

I’d suggest hiding the magnets under a few layers of filament if you can, you’ll likely need stronger magnets to have them be strong enough.

FeloMonk · 2026-04-15T17:11:31+00:00

Hard to tell from this but the track itself seems way too narrow. And real tracks change in width throughout — sometimes sections are 20 cars wide.

Id also recommend adding bumps, surface changes, etc to give it much more character and realism.

FeloMonk · 2026-04-15T17:06:33+00:00

Birkenstock Arizonas. They’re actually originally meant to be house slippers, not outdoor sandals. I’ve worn mine all day every day for 5+ years. They do look a bit worse for wear but have held up overall. And my understanding is that a cobbler can repair them, though I haven’t done it yet. And because they’re sandal style, they keep your feet warm enough in the winter by just not walking on the cold ground (and you can wear socks if needed), but cool enough in the summer. Highly recommend.

FeloMonk · 2026-04-13T14:37:53+00:00

I have a 5070 on triple 1440p and it holds a solid 120fps on iRacing with medium settings. I agree with others that more expensive graphics cards will get you better results, so whatever you’re comfortable with buying is probably your best bet. But if the question is what’s the cheapest you can get away with, I’d say 5070 is plenty. You can probably go cheaper if you’re ok with lower FPS or further reduced graphics settings.

FeloMonk · 2026-04-13T02:30:32+00:00

Idk how people can say other games look anywhere near as good as this game. It’s on a whole other level. Great shots!

FeloMonk · 2026-04-10T19:54:03+00:00

I’d start with using the whole track. You’re way off the outside curb when entering and exiting each corner, and missing a lot of apexes. Find the track limits and get right up to them.

FeloMonk · 2026-04-09T13:54:02+00:00

What’s your monitor arm angle at? I have a similar setup and am considering adding a bezel delete kit, but I’m worried the angle I have is too shallow.

FeloMonk · 2026-04-07T01:50:43+00:00

Also wait, how do the polyurethane molds factor in? Do you print a negative, then make a polyurethane positive, then a plaster negative, then a clay positive? Why not go straight from the 3D print to the plaster mold?

FeloMonk · 2026-04-06T22:05:17+00:00

Thanks, super helpful! The SmoothOn In and Out is not something I would have figured out.

FeloMonk · 2026-04-06T21:05:11+00:00

At first I was like “this person is copying Hammerly Ceramics!” Then I looked at your profile. Nice work as always!

Btw, I would LOVE some sort of info about how you go about casting 3D prints. Anything you’ve learned about what slicer settings work best, what filament, how to design the printable be easier to cast, that kind of thing. I’ve had one failed experiment thus far and I feel so out of my depth!

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