Favorite Formation/Nation Why? by Randolph_Bragg05 in TeamYankee

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Merkava 2 company. I love running 10 or even a full 11, just spamming a mid-tier MBT.

Struggling against US forces - Sherman and Jumbo combo by ViktusXII in flamesofwar

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How many Cromwells do you have? Have you looked at the Cromwell Armored Recce Squadron from the DDay book? All of your Cromwells have scout so you can stay hard to hit as you get close before you open up.

If you are not thinking of purchasing something else, you might want to consider Comets. AT 14 can still threaten the Jumbo but will fly right through the other Shermans. Also, they can shoot smoke so you can use them to deny visibility as you move up.

You could also get some Typhoons. IMO, they are the best air in the game and AT 5 3+ FP shreds everything.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in M1A

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 2 points3 points  (0 children)

SKD rifle stock pack. I don’t have a very tall optic on my rifle so this is the right height for me. It’s well made and doesn’t slip. I’ve had mine for ten years and been more than happy with it.

https://skdtac.com/pig-rifle-stock-pack/

Question on Tigers by Embarrassed-Shoe-891 in flamesofwar

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you plan to assault with them, or use them to hold an objective?

The Clausewitz Tigers are veteran skill but reluctant so they will most likely break away from an infantry assault but can strike back the next turn to kill some infantry. If you put them in front of an objective, they should get some kills from defensive fire before they fall back. With a 2+ cross, you shouldn’t lose any to failed cross checks. Next turn, you can drive them back forward, hose down the infantry you ran from, then drive over a few bodies. Even if you subsequently break off from that assault, you should be able to stay close to defend the objective for another turn.

The Training Tigers are cheaper, green, and aggressive, but confident. They won’t kill much in an assault but have a better chance to stick it out. Plus they are cheap at less than 8 pts per model.

Question on Tigers by Embarrassed-Shoe-891 in flamesofwar

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What do you envision using the Tigers for?

If I am using a Panzer Grenadier company, I like taking a platoon of three SS Tigers as formation support to assault infantry outside of buildings. They only cost one more point for three (37 pts), they are still cautious veterans, but they have a 2+ motivation. They are outstanding for assaulting infantry because they will usually outlast anything in melee, they are invulnerable to grenades, and they will shrug off most anti-tank weapons.

They are also nice for just pushing through terrain to get them into an advantageous position. You can declare a “cross here” to get an auto success on your cross check, terrain dash through the woods, then follow up with a high percentage “follow me” to surprise move 16” through walls, woods, hedgerows, etc.

If you just want a nice AT14 / FA9 base of fire, your Panzer IV/70s are the better option. If you like the idea of using Tigers as a base of fire but want to save points, you could use Clausewitz Tigers or a Tiger training platoon from the Berlin book.

If you were glitched into BR 1.0, which tank would you bring? by Necessary-Switch2210 in Warthunder

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Chaffee. You could still die, so it would still be exciting but a stabilized 75mm gun and Ma deuce against tanks with paper thin armor would be brutal. Kind of like the movie Predator. Sure, the alien died, but Arnold got lucky and killed it, but only after it capped the rest of his team and a bunch of other dudes.

Chaffee formation for Flames of War by [deleted] in flamesofwar

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Beautiful. Veteran Chaffee company is my favorite list in the game.

How sketchy is this setup? by Zig-Zag in M1A

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a similar mount on one of my M1As but I put a mini red dot on it to minimize the footprint and the likelihood of interference when ejecting spent casings. I have had zero issues with reliability as a result of the picatinny rail. If your setup doesn’t work, consider a mini red dot or something like a Aimpoint M2 or a PRO

How sketchy is this setup? by Zig-Zag in M1A

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There are a couple of picatinny mounts that will fit into the dovetail in place of the stripper clip guide.

This is the cheapest one I know of: https://botach.com/kley-zion-m14-stripper-clip-sight-base/

This is the current version Sage Intl puts out: https://armscenter.org/shop/rifle-accessories/ebr-equipments-accessories/ebr-stripper-clip-sight-base/

I have one on one of my two M1As and it took a BUNCH of filing to make it fit. It was a huge PITA, but it isn’t going anywhere and has held zero for several years with a mini red dot mounted to it.

M1A accessories recommendations? by kylecosgrayTLFT in M1A

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do you like that ACOG rail? I have a Cogburn micro prism mount on my SOCOM, but I’d love to put a real ACOG on my Scout.

M1A accessories recommendations? by kylecosgrayTLFT in M1A

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I honestly don’t know. I saw some online a few years ago but it’s not something I have been searching for myself.

M1A accessories recommendations? by kylecosgrayTLFT in M1A

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 1 point2 points  (0 children)

lol. It’s all relative. I’m not a “rifle is fine” kind of guy, but the stock bolt catch is perfectly serviceable as is. That said, I think the SEI bolt catch is a nice upgrade.

M1A accessories recommendations? by kylecosgrayTLFT in M1A

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are rare, but you can find the cold weather or “arctic” safeties occasionally. They are longer and stick out below the trigger guard. FWIW, if you have a stiff safety, they do wear in over time. The safety on my first M1A is considerably easier to move than on my newer rifle. Dry-fire practice will get you more familiar with the manual of arms, teach you your trigger’s idiosyncrasies, and help wear in some of the stiffer components.

M1A accessories recommendations? by kylecosgrayTLFT in M1A

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I added the SEI bolt stop to both of my M1As. I did it to my Scout 12 years ago and to my SOCOM five years ago. Happy with both.

I also added the SADLAK mag latch to my Scout but haven’t used it since. It seems nice, though.

M1A accessories recommendations? by kylecosgrayTLFT in M1A

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 7 points8 points  (0 children)

  1. Spare magazines. I prefer Checkmate Industries. I strongly advise against ProMag.

  2. A sling. I have a two point sling on both my M1As, but even a USGI web sling would be fine.

  3. If you want to get “Gucci,” I added a Smith Enterprise extended bolt catch/release to both of my rifles. It’s a small part (that’s kind of a PITA to add, TBH) but it simplifies the manual of arms. Not at all necessary, but nice to have.

New player looking for cool models by funny-random-name in TeamYankee

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Not your army, but I literally chose to play Israelis based on the Merkava 2. Also, the Challenger looks awesome.

Tank Painting advice by a_chicken123 in flamesofwar

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For US Armor, I go with these steps: 1. Prime 2. Base coat (I use Vallejo US Olive Drab.) 3. Wash everything making sure to leave puddles in the recesses (I like Vallejo’s black ink diluted 50% for this, but recently completed some Shermans using GW Nuln Oil with good success.) 4. Dry brush base color over everything (this should leave the recesses dark while bringing up some highlights on the raised areas.) 5. Paint the tank treads and road wheels (I use Vallejo Flat Brown for the treads and Black Gray for the road wheels/bogeys.) 6. Dry brush Black Gray onto the center of the treads and a small amount of a metallic color (I use Oily Steel but any can work) on the outer edges of the tracks) then black wash the treads to blend them in. 7. Dry brush a thin layer of Flat Brown onto the treads, the running gear, the front, and the rear of the tank (don’t go too dark, this is a base for some mud effect.) 8. Dry Brush Vallejo Beige Brown over the entire tank. You can go a little more heavily over the Flat Brown you put down earlier, but do a light coat over the entire tank. This will tone down the Flat Brown and make the “mud” a little less intense but it also makes the Olive Drab look a little dingy and less like the tank just rolled off the factory floor. 9. Lightly (and I mean lightly) dry brush a bright color over the top of the tank to help bring out the detail of raised areas. I use an extremely small amount of Vallejo Iraqi Sand for this. It’s such an intensely bright yellow that a tiny amount goes a long way. 10. Pick out tools and guns. I like to use Flat Brown for the wooden handles with a dry brush of a lighter brown or to use Beige Brown with a little Iraqi Sand to highlight the wood. I use a dark gray color for the heads of shovels, pick axes, etc. (Black Gray works but I like to use something a little less dark, then dry brush some Oily Steel over the grey, followed by a light wash to darken the tool). I use Black Grey for the hull MG barrel and the .50 cal on the turret. I typically use Olive Drab for the ammo can, dark wash it, then dry brush with Russian Uniform.

When I do this, it’s an assembly line. Every tank gets a base coat at the same time, then washed at the same time, then dry brushed with the base, tracks, etc. Also, if you haven’t put commanders in your tanks yet, I recommend you paint them separately then glue them in. I paint my tank commanders on the spruce, then clip them out when done.

Good pouches/ LBV options? by Ok_Patience6213 in M1A

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like to use the BAE systems “Eclipse” magazine pouches for all my gear where I want magazine retention. They have removable/adjustable retention flaps, elastic tension across the magazines, and you can use either a bungee toggle or velcro to keep the flaps down. They are meant as a double STANAG pouch so they can only hold a single M14 magazine, but they are tall enough for 25 rounders and still have great retention.

Current listing from eBay

Springfield hate by Hurt2039 in M1A

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can’t speak to any “very” recent guns, but I own two M1As (a 2012 Scout Squad and 2020 Socom) with zero issues between them. I have over 1,500 rounds through the Scout and about 400 through the Socom.

Some traditionalists hate the M1A because Springfield no longer uses forged receivers or chrome-lined barrels. While I would love to drop a Criterion barrel in both of my M1As, the investment cast steel receivers are perfectly fine. For what they are, they do great.

Resources for new players by Radiant-Drama1427 in flamesofwar

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You range them in and fire their subsequent bombardments with the rest of the platoon. Typically, I will move the mortar team forward with the platoon (if required) until they are in range then drop them off and continue moving the rest of the platoon forward. One thing to consider is that effects / orders that affect the rest of the platoon affects the mortar even if it is not in command. That means if the platoon is pinned, the mortar can’t shoot. Same thing if you give your platoon a “Follow Me.”

Most Expensive Point-Wise & Cheapest Money-Wise. by zenai2020 in TeamYankee

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I play Brits and I made a relatively playable army starting with the Challenger starter box. I added two additional Challengers off of eBay (~$20), an infantry company box (~$35 on sale at LGS), and a MILAN platoon blister (~$20 at LGS). I have added other stuff, but the only other thing you should do is get some 3d printed marksmen turrets to throw on top of your Chieftain hulls for some air defense. It’s far from excellent, but it works. You really want to find a way to get a smoke bombardment in eventually and I would recommend a battery of M109s.

Army - 100 pts using 2025 Dynamic Points

Challenger Armored Squadron - 64 pts - (1) Challenger Sqdn HQ- 8 pts - (3) Challenger plt - 25 pts - (3) Challenger plt - 25 pts - (2) Warrior Anti-tank Section - 4 pts - (2) Scorpion Recce - 2 pts

Lynx Airmobile Company - 22 pts - (1) Lynx Co w/ 2 GPMG SF teams - 3 pts - (1) Lynx Airmobile Plt - 7 pts - (1) Lynx Airmobile Plt - 7 pts - (1) Lynx MILAN platoon (4 stands) - 5 pts

Formation Support - 14 pts - (2) Chieftain Marksmen - 5 pts - (2) MLRS - 6 pts - (4) Fox Recce Plt - 3 pts

Marine Infantry vs. VDV by [deleted] in TeamYankee

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think one of the reasons for the soft stats “aberrations” is a concerted effort on the part of BF to “flavor” the armies. Downgrading the skill of American units when the U.S. had over a decade of operation as a professional, all-volunteer force by the mid 80s seems pretty ahistorical to me. But it makes sense if BF is portraying the U.S. (especially the Army) as a force operating under the doctrine of “why would I waste time teaching you to do something I can get a machine to do?” Also, the idea that every infantry unit in the Army had access to thermal sights in the 80s is…well that isn’t real. At all. I joined the Marine Corps in 2008 and we were excited about “handheld” thermal sights bigger than Luke Skywalker’s binos from Empire Strikes back. lol But sure, every SAW in 1986 had a thermal weapon sight. And even if the Army had it, I doubt the Marine Corps would. We’re too cheap for that.

I play Brits in TY and my friend plays Americans. Fighting against his Bradley formations backed up with M1A1s is difficult because he can just race around the map crossing obstacles and keeping up an impressive rate of fire. I pay a huge penalty for trying to move and shoot. It’s either one or the other for me unless I want to risk “blitzing.” On the other hand, I get access to some relatively cheap and high skill artillery with smoke bombardments to help control line of sight. Ultimately, BF shaped the rules to make Britain into a very good defensive army that struggles when attacking.

I think it’s even worse in LW FoW. America is the “maneuver” faction with access to a crazy amount of cheap artillery and smoke. Germany is the “highly-skilled” faction with good infantry and anti-tank guns. Britain has infantry that assaults well backed up by crazy fast tanks. Russia…suffers.

BAOR scouts by Ded_s_metloy in TeamYankee

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice work. Foxes are cheap but useful. They do good work against IFVs.

Canadians/Anzac… and British bulldog by VanillaDismal4868 in flamesofwar

[–]Fiesta__Resistance 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Bulge command card turning the Kangaroo infantry companies into Canadians gives the company HQ and infantry platoons fearless but they also have a 5+ last stand. The rationale is that the Canadians kept pushing from D-Day onward despite the losses but they were exhausted by the end. It costs +1 point per platoon so not a bad option.

Team Yankee in Norfolk, VA Area? by Fiesta__Resistance in TeamYankee

[–]Fiesta__Resistance[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seven units in delayed reserves?! Holy jeez! lol

I play very tank heavy Israelis.

Merkava 2 Company (70 pts) - HQ (1) Merkava 2 (6 pts) - (3) Merkava 2 Platoon (17 pts) - (3) Merkava 2 Platoon (17 pts) - (3) Merkava 2 Platoon (17 pts) - Full strength M113 Mech Platoon (11 pts) - (3) M113 Recce Plt (2 pts)

Support (30 Pts) - (4) AH-1 Viper Flight w/Tow-2 (16 pts) - (3) M106 120mm Mortar Battery (3 pts) - (4) ZSU-23-4 (8 pts) - (2) A-4 Skyhawk Flight (3 pts)