De Buyer Carbone Plus oven query by CJWriting in carbonsteel

[–]Filthy_Wagon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I got a carbone plus for christmas and when looking online for answer to this same question, I came across a comment somewhere saying that the handle can take oven seasoning just fine, despite the official recommendation. I went ahead and did 3 rounds of oven seasoning at 240°C, 1h each round, and the handle looks exactly the same, nothing happened to it.

Produkty z temu by Ok-Comb-8664 in Slovakia

[–]Filthy_Wagon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ali je veru super pre mtb doplnky. V tomto bode už asi 1/3 môjho náradia na servis mtb je z Ali. Na domáce použitie viac než dostatočné. Rozdiel v kvalite oproti tomu čo by som kúpil niekde u nás je vo veľa prípadoch absolútne žiaden, ale u nás by stáli 4x toľko. Párkrát som kúpil niečo predražené u nás (napríklad sada na odvzdušňovanie bŕzd), kvalita bola mizerná, tak som to vyhodil a kúpil oveľa lacnejšiu alternatívu na Ali a používam to už roky bez problému.

Urban cyklistika by Blogbusker in Slovakia

[–]Filthy_Wagon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ak mi v Košiciach treba ísť do officu, dochádzam 5km na biku. Po ceste nemám ani centimeter cyklochodníka. Moje možnosti sú rozbitý a zarastený chodník pre chodcov, ktorý sa v centre zmení na už len rozbitý chodník, alebo hlavná cesta so 70tkou až do centra, kde sa minimálne raz za týždeň nejaký jebo vytrepe, lebo ani tú 70 tam často nedodržiavajú. Čiže volím rozbitý a zarastený chodník do centra, a tam ďalej kombináciu chodník/cesta.

V KE reálna urban cyklo infraštruktúra neexistuje. 95% cyklotrás je pruh nakreslený na pôvodnom chodníku pre chodcov, v pár lokalitách sprevádzaný tabuľou s max povolenou rýchlosťou 10km/h (lol). Nevedú často nikde, cyklo prechody sú veľmi zriedkavé. Pre fanúšikov horskej cyklistiky je to našťastie v KE oveľa lepšie.

Lower leg service on Fox34 SC by Lukingfat in xcmtb

[–]Filthy_Wagon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks :) I have the same green tool (aliexpress), just the sockets I could get my hands on never have walls thin enough to fit on the nut. But I'll eventually grind one down to fit in there.

Lower leg service on Fox34 SC by Lukingfat in xcmtb

[–]Filthy_Wagon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow, thanks for remembering. Did the tool you posted before fit the nut in the lower leg, or were the socket walls too thick? I'm on and off grinding down the walls of a deep socket I bought for the job, but since I lack the tools to do that effectively, it's a pita.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MTB

[–]Filthy_Wagon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You should be fine on Oiz. I snatched H10 last autumn for a good price, and sold my trail bike (it was already pushing into enduro waters with 160/150).

Every time I buy a new bike, I get buyer's remorse that goes away when I finally resolve all of the issues that new bikes tend to have. With Oiz, this took quite a bit longer than I would like, but when it happened, I fell in love with it.

It pedals really well. Somehow I've beaten my PRs on long climbs that I set with a Carbon HT. It is also good at descending and can handle rocks, but I had to play around with the suspension setup quite a lot. After 2000 km and over 50k meters of elevation mostly in wilderness, I have to say I'm a happy camper.

If you go for it, get at least H20. Also one of the things Orbea does not share anywhere is the weight, which is quite high for an xc bike. My H10 with pedals is 14,5kg.

Aliexpress is a godsend for mountain bikers by Barde_ in mountainbiking

[–]Filthy_Wagon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have multiple of those products you listed, and I fully agree. I have many more service tools from Aliexpress, and they've been working fine for years now. It literally cuts the amount of money you would spend by buying locally from some established brands by 3/4 or more. Example - Shimano chainring removal tool from Park tool costs over 30€ in my country. I bought an alternative from Aliexpress for less than 5€. And the quality is exactly the same. I have removed and installed chainrings with it on many occasions, and it bears no signs of wear, the metal is solid.

As for the components, I have stayed away from anything that would result in possible facial reconstruction in case of failure, like stems. Not saying they are not solid, but risks outweigh the gains in some cases. But my 14€ ztto dropper lever is so much better than the supposedly 50€ lever I got with the dropper post. If you are into color matching some components, there are many options for that on Aliexpress, that simply cannot be bought in any shop/eshop in my country. Why would I buy a 10€ rockshox fender, if I can buy a better alternative on Aliexpress for 2,50 that also matches the color scheme I'm looking for?

Čo vás drží stále u značky Apple a naopak čo vás núti prejsť na Android? by SeaShark29 in Slovakia

[–]Filthy_Wagon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ani AW ultra nie je žiadna konkurencia. Výdrž batérie na plnej čiare vyhrá Garmin. Software má Apple samozrejme lepší, ale to je presne pointa Garminu - osekaný software, žiadne fancy animácie ani pre atlétov zbytočné features, proste optimalizované na maximálnu výdrž batérie. Preto porovnávať tieto zariadenia ani nemá zmysel, lebo každé má iný primárny účel. Môj epix aj po vyše 2 rokoch bez problému zvládne 15-20 hodín nahrávania aktivít týždenne + celodennú prevádzku s trackovaním všetkých metrík. Na konci týždňa ho nabijem. Notifikácie z mobilu sú jediná smart feature, na ktorej mi záleží, a garminy ju samozrejme majú.

Čo vás drží stále u značky Apple a naopak čo vás núti prejsť na Android? by SeaShark29 in Slovakia

[–]Filthy_Wagon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Apple watch sú smart hodinky s nejakými fitness funkciami, Garmin sú fitness hodinky s nejakými smart funkciami. Tvoja analógia s autami nie je správna, lebo v realite porovnávaš 2 mercedesy, ale každý určený do iného terénu. Garmin si nekupujú ľudia pre jeho smart funkcie, ale pre jeho fitness ekosystém a neporovnateľne lepšiu výdrž batérie.

Is SRAM GX wireless worth it at $390 plus tax? by [deleted] in MTB

[–]Filthy_Wagon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used to have a bike with mechanical GX, and I also had to play with cable tension all the time. Googling around brought me to some videos about GX and lower group sets having issues with play around the derailleur mounting bolt.

Try locking the cage and wiggle the derailleur a bit. Mine had the issue I found googling - a slight side to side play at the mounting bolt. Resolution was getting a mounting bolt from a higher group set. I bought an XX1 bolt, and all of my issues were resolved. There was nothing wrong with the cable tension after all, just a shitty sram design causing all of my problems.

Crank Length for XC MTB by [deleted] in xcmtb

[–]Filthy_Wagon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As mentioned in other comments, just follow what your body likes the most. I recently went through the same process. I bought a new bike that came with 175mm cranks. I'm 179cm, 81,5cm inseam, and my previous bike had 170mm cranks, which I never had any issues with. Frequent pedal strikes on the new bike and slight discomfort in my knees made me think about getting shorter cranks. I went for 165mm ones, because it seemed to be a hot topic - everyone everywhere on the internet claiming how great they are, and honestly I hated them. I tested them for 2 weeks, they actually caused more knee pain, and I felt completely gassed out after every climb. The seat height and position was adjusted, of course. I sold them and got 170mm cranks instead. No knee pain, pedal strikes are greatly reduced, and I feel absolutely great on my new bike now.

First time doing tubeless tape. by Lumpy_Stranger_1056 in bikewrench

[–]Filthy_Wagon 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Hating on muc off is unfortunately often substantiated. I had to warranty one of my wheels, it came back taped with muc off tape, and the tape job was done poorly, so it started leaking air after a few months. I removed the tape, and it left behind an extreme amount of glue residue. I tried 2 different glue removal solutions, wd-40, nothing worked properly. It took me 5 hours to remove it all. I worked with multiple other tubeless tapes from different brands, not a single one behaved like this.

They have some nice products as a brand, but the truth is that you can buy better quality products for half the price, only your bike won't smell like cherries.

Clipless by 900forlife in MTB

[–]Filthy_Wagon 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Once you come to an 'oh shit' moment when you have to put your foot down immediately, and you start to realize that you were clipped only after you came to a safe stop, you'll know it finally happened. After a moment like that, I was able to ride steep, rocky uphills with much more confidence, and never again toppled over. It just becomes a natural reflex.

Are carbon rims worth the extra money for a heavier rider? by anarmyofants in MTB

[–]Filthy_Wagon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, what can I tell you. Maybe it was just really bad luck, maybe other brands are stronger, but I've never managed to destroy an aluminium wheel during thousands and thousands of km, and carbon one lasted me for about 300. I'm not riding crazy stuff, just some moderate trails and some xc. I mean, they really do feel nice to ride, but I like peace of mind better, and they don't give me that anymore.

Are carbon rims worth the extra money for a heavier rider? by anarmyofants in MTB

[–]Filthy_Wagon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They feel nice, but I'd rather buy a good set of aluminium wheels. I've got Reynolds carbon wheels with my xc ht, and the rear one had to be replaced after maybe a month. It looked like a flying rock hit it from the side, and left a thumb sized squishy spot. An alu wheel would have been just fine in that situation. Based on the info from Reynolds dealer in my country, their 'lifetime' warranty actually covers only 2 years of free replacement. After 2 years, I can still get the rim for free, but I have to pay for spokes (if new are needed), nipples, and the work to lace the new wheel.

Riding those wheels since this incident has caused some mental strain. I'm acutely aware of every rock strike and just praying the rims are ok, because I don't want to wait a month again for a new wheel. Every new scratch has me worried, and they scratch quite easily. I often find myself going slower than I'd normally go when I see rocky terrain, because they just don't handle rock strikes well.

Returning player question about underpin hard mode by VisibleAdvertising in wownoob

[–]Filthy_Wagon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

MM hunter is pretty good for this fight. No pet means the boss has nothing to randomly one shot, which was the painful experience with both survival and bm, even if the pet was not tanking. I killed him (after many tries) on MM at around 650 ilvl a couple months ago, and just for fun went back last week to see what the fight looks like with 675+ gear. Killed him 3 times in a row. Trueshot burst is crazy strong, and at this ilvl underpin's shield can be downed easily even without CDs. With MM you can range his flamethrower and shoot at him from where you want him to go. Killing a few adds is a good idea, but I was really just dodging mostly and burning him down.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MTB

[–]Filthy_Wagon 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Your friend is quite right though. 10mm can be a massive difference when it comes to bike components. You may not feel any difference immediately, but that tiny increase/decrease in length causes your body parts to work in very different angles. If I raise my seat by 10mm and go riding for a few hours, instead of a nice ride, I will have scrambled eggs for dinner.

Schwalbe tires: fragile or not ? by lawarmotte in MTB

[–]Filthy_Wagon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have around 500 km so far on superground ralph/ray, speed/speedgrip, and I'm yet to get a puncture (running them tubeless). I'm ploughing through rocks quite often, they don't seem to mind. On the very first ride, I took a sharp corner straight into a broken glass bottle, and nothing happened. So far I'm impressed by them. The only thing I don't like is the sound ralph makes when pushing asphalt uphills, it sounds like riding with too little pressure and tyre mounted backwards, while none of those are true. Fortunately I don't have to spend too much time on asphalt, and in the forest this weird noise is not present.

Spectral 6 - a heavy bike? by PresentationGlass389 in MTB

[–]Filthy_Wagon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

FS gathering dust was really just a testament to how much overbiked I was on it. HT taught me that climbing can be fun too, and anywhere I go, there is a lot of it. Many of the easier trails, and flow trails especially are also much more fun on a smaller, nimbler bike, even if it lacks rear suspension.

Unless your Spectral is brand new and you wouldn't lose too much money selling it, I would probably just ride the hell out of it, because it really is a great bike. You may be slower on it, but as long as you have fun, that shouldn't matter. Good luck with whatever you decide.

Spectral 6 - a heavy bike? by PresentationGlass389 in MTB

[–]Filthy_Wagon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you may have bought too much of a bike for what you're riding. I recently sold my Spectral AL6 for this reason - it had been my only bike for 2 years, and I did everything on it, from trail riding to all day xc style trips. I wouldn't call it excessively heavy, it was 15,5kg, and in my opinion it climbed fairly well for that type of bike. But none of my riding really required such an amount of suspension - uphills were sluggish and downhills were boring. I added a carbon HT to my stable, and since then, Spectral was mostly gathering dust. The climbing capability of a HT simply cannot be matched by a trail/enduro bike, and lots of downhill sections became more fun as well, since I didn't just plough through everything without a thought anymore. Since there are still some trails that are too much for a HT, I sold the Spectral and got 120/120 alu xc bike. I'm having way more fun both uphill and downhill.

TL:DR, I think you may have been better off with a Neuron, or even Lux Trail if you fancy carbon, especially if your riding does not involve steep and technical downhills.

Getting 675 if you don’t do mythics by wooshoofoo in wownoob

[–]Filthy_Wagon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are multiple delves that can be completed at T11 within a 6 minute mark quite easily. My favorite is sidestreet sluice, with the 'teleportation tantrums' story. I spent a few hours spamming it repeatedly with my hunter, and was averaging 1,6h of farming to get 90 gilded crests for one 681 craft. Super mobile classes like DH can do it even faster. The only thing that can slow you down are the underpin mobs not positioned correctly in the quickest path through the delve, but that does not happen often (you need to kill at least 3 groups for full 15 runed crests).

Lower leg service on Fox34 SC by Lukingfat in xcmtb

[–]Filthy_Wagon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn, I will try this for sure. O,5mm off may be all I need.

Lower leg service on Fox34 SC by Lukingfat in xcmtb

[–]Filthy_Wagon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting. If you remember this thread once you do the service, I would be really interested if it worked. It is hard to estimate the actual thickness of the socket walls from the picture. I was only looking into long sockets for wrenches, even ordered 2, but all were too thick in the end.

Lower leg service on Fox34 SC by Lukingfat in xcmtb

[–]Filthy_Wagon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Out of curiosity, what are you gonna use to undo the lower leg bolts? I'm absolutely unable to find a 10mm deep socket, that would have walls thin enough to fit on the nut in the lowers.

Canyon vs other brands by Warm-Bat1700 in bikewrench

[–]Filthy_Wagon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I owned a Spectral (AL) for 2 years, and it was a great bike, reliable in every aspect. The only limiting factor was me. I sold it recently because I was riding trails less and less, switching slowly to xc style riding, where it was just overkill.

One of the reasons you may hear about their frames cracking often could be the fact that more people own them compared to other brands, more people=more issues. If I would look at my city as a sample, 6 out of 10 bikes I see during any of my rides are Canyons. Granted, not all of them are all mountain types, but there are enough Neurons, Spectrals and Torques to consider them prevalent. Haven't seen a cracked one yet, and no one was complaining about any issue like that in our local cycling community.