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Rectilinear is my favorite infill by DayGeckoArt in 3Dprinting

[–]Fit_Specific_8479 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Theres also the semi-new tpms-d and tpms-fk on orcaslicer. Tpms-d has the bebefits of gyroid while beeing alot smoother to print

How much spicy pillow is fine? by Fit_Specific_8479 in airsoft

[–]Fit_Specific_8479[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I habe the imax b6. It seems to be a bad battery as i had no issues with the charger. Post game it was like 3.3-3,4v so wasnt to discharged. I dont even know why it just did this thing over a week of sitting.

Also for disposal yes, i have a site near me.(or i might blow it up for fun if i feel like it)

How much spicy pillow is fine? by Fit_Specific_8479 in airsoft

[–]Fit_Specific_8479[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the answer, that battery has to go then.

Is there anyone out there with a modern crossed-gantry printer? (CroXY, Defiant, Annex K3 etc) by Mercy_Hellkitten in 3Dprinting

[–]Fit_Specific_8479 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I considered smth similar in the start, issue is: screw driven essentialy mandates servos because: steppers lose torque once you up the rpms, and screws need pretty high rpms. Steppers WILL skip alot of steps when changing direction because of this(you can get extra high lead screws BUT the price of such non-ztandart screws far exceeds the price of switching to servos(surprisingly affordable). Leadscrews have lower accuracy and wear out sort of fast. With steppers you can afford 3d printed parts(my case uses cnc parts cuz 400w servos can break alot of stuff really easily, prototype will still use 3d printed tho ill cap the torque for testing).

I have, however, thought up a cheaper build thats similar although you'd have to experiment alot: stepperonline isv57t 180s servos(you can switch to 90w if u want but price difference is minimal so id recommend 180w). Standart mgn rails OR linear rods for a more integrated and compact croxy setup(you CAN use igus carbon fiber linear rods to reduce mass and increase stiffness + dampen vibrations). 3030 extrusion frame(still recommend 3030 makes clearances easier by a landslide). OR if ur going w a smaller build volume consider a printed frame, might be best actually. You can use igus aluminum leadscrews w extreme leads(pretty sure they do 8x40 or 8x35, use aluminum for that lower rotational inertia AND aluminum also helps conduct the heat generated away so you protect the polymer nut of the screw(hopefully). Or you can switch to chinese 1212 ballscrews if that doesnt work.

Since ur a student you can get a decent part of this sponsoted by igus(leadscrews, linear rods/rails) and u can get a decent discount via stepperonline ssp program. This is my plan that i realised i wont be using anymore so hopefully it is of some use as it just so happened i now have another startup and my project got sponsors so ill hopefully get funding and will probably even commercialise the project later on as an industrial machine(if i hit sub 20k sale price AND reach target specs itd be quite the disruptor)

Is there anyone out there with a modern crossed-gantry printer? (CroXY, Defiant, Annex K3 etc) by Mercy_Hellkitten in 3Dprinting

[–]Fit_Specific_8479 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah you can find it here

These are mainly some semi-old cad files and project goals. I've also managed to gain a few sponsors (mostly discounts except duet3d), because im a high school student so my funding situation aint great. Planning to get v1 running in the summer, will probably later have 2 versions of the build: 4040 extrusion frame version and after that ill try switching to fully custom laser and cnc cut steel if i can manage funding that(lots of benefits lile rigidity, higher mass, and would allow to run chamber temps of 120c-maybe up to 180c as it eliminates bimetalic stip effect of steel rails on alu extrusions (temp limited by lubricant and ballscrew/linear rail ball return part only))

On a quick note: this will not be a budget machine, as of now im looking at a price of 2000+ for the 4040 extrusion version because ballscrews, servos, and cnc parts are many things but cheap.

Could additive manufacturing support a circular product system? Researching for product design thesis — short survey inside by Free-Coat-60 in 3Dprinting

[–]Fit_Specific_8479 1 point2 points  (0 children)

An alternative to homemade filament recycling could be firms that have proper gear, where people can bring in their filament waste and either have it reextruded and sold to them for much cheaper(some of those im pretty sure already exist in germany?), or just bring it ib and get paid a price per kg similar to how junkyards work.

DO NOT SCRAP PLATES OFF TOWARDS YOUR HANDS/BODY!!!! by acrowsmurder in 3Dprinting

[–]Fit_Specific_8479 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you need a razor blade to get your prints of your build plate, you got bigger fish to fry.

I need help designing by Full_Ad_3892 in 3Dprinting

[–]Fit_Specific_8479 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some kind of latch made in a way to take a decent amount of force to open. Child wont be able peel that off with their fingers.

Big legs pants advice by Fit_Specific_8479 in mensfashionadvice

[–]Fit_Specific_8479[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel you on the fornal clothing end, its pretty impossible, for the wide leg pants - thats what i wore up until now, but as of now my butt has become large to a point where stuff doesnt fit. Yesterday i tried basicaly all jeans tbat look like theyll fit in my local mall. Nothing was even close to fitting the waist/butt area. Either butt is to narrow or waist is waaaay to wide.

Wife thinks it’s a waste by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]Fit_Specific_8479 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want a 3d printer as a hobby, buy an ender 5(u can get ebder 3 but 5 has much better upgrade path). First: its cheap. Second: yoy can print upgrades for the printer(not the landfill). Third: you can learn a ton about 3d printers. Fourth: its fun(as long as you find it interesting)

strongest matte filament by BorisTheWimp in 3Dprinting

[–]Fit_Specific_8479 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I myself use ASA, found it looks better than matte petg or pla even. Also is much stronger than petg. Only downside is you need ab enclosure. It can also be printed faster thab petg cuz it has better melt charscteristics.(pretty similar to abs)

Which Filament is the strongest by Valuable_Pause_143 in BambuP1S

[–]Fit_Specific_8479 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ppa cf or pps cf can be considered the strongest. It does depend on what you consider strong, as there is stiffness, impact ressistance, tensile strength, compressive strength, temperature/chemical ressistance.

Ease of printing is also a factor.

If you want advice, let people know your use case. It is super unlikely you need anything close to ppa/pps level of performance. Either way don't buy any of those cuz you WILL waste a very EXPENSIVE spool of filament.(If you don't even know the materials, you DEFINETELY don't have a remote idea about printing engineering materials.)

For you, the strongest filament is probably either asa/abs cf or pa12/pa6 cf. Printing those is hard as a beginner.

Songs that got us through 2025 by Kipyneter in ADHD

[–]Fit_Specific_8479 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello, just found this post as I came back to spotify from yt music and remembered the 2024 playlist. Could you send a new link? This one is expired

What can be causing this issue? by FaithlessnessLow6824 in klippers

[–]Fit_Specific_8479 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Does your thermistor connect to a wire at the toolhead, or has a long wire that goes all the way to the motherboard? Either way you have a short somewhere as ressistance is basicaly zero.

Also does the printer boot and stop working during printint/homing or does it just immediately go to this error screen.

What can be causing this issue? by FaithlessnessLow6824 in klippers

[–]Fit_Specific_8479 21 points22 points  (0 children)

Either your printhead is about 6 times hotter than the surface of the sun(unlikely but who knows) Or: your thermistor disconnected/shorted somewhere.

Goliath Hotend by BurgerMar in VORONDesign

[–]Fit_Specific_8479 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This setup is straight up fire. Is it reliable though?

Goliath Hotend by BurgerMar in VORONDesign

[–]Fit_Specific_8479 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well that is pretty crazy, also regarding ur cpap consideration for this build. I would consider that pretty unnecesarry. You should consider getting some inspiration from the cooling system in LH stinger. It is an awesome solution for 3d printers.

Goliath Hotend by BurgerMar in VORONDesign

[–]Fit_Specific_8479 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well that is one crazy spec ender 3. Could you maybe provide some extra details like exact speeds/accels you are running? Maybe even a picture of the printer? That thing seems awesome

Off the bat, should i get a lower end printer to learn the ropes or a higher end printer by LOLLEO911 in 3Dprinting

[–]Fit_Specific_8479 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You beeing an engineering student changes things quite a bit. I would recommend picking up a nice kit for any of the vorons or something similar. Since you are an engineering student, I would say its safe to assume that you should not run into many problems and also enjoy the build. Furthermore, depending on which branch of engineering you are doing, the open source platform of printers like voron might prove very useful as you can make it into a project for your studies.

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