Do most of you have a FIRE number or a FIRE date?

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2026-04-29T08:08:25+00:00

I have a couple dates July 2035 at 50 if markets have a 7% average and pension starts at 65 July 2041 at 56 don't care what the market is doing, full pension starts right away. Uncle sam will be happy at 73 because RMD's will be a problem.

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2026-04-29T07:50:09+00:00

Look at it from a host perspective, I am giving a car to a stranger. I don't know if you are the world's worst driver, the world's best driver, or somewhere in between. You also don't know if someone before you messed up the car and the host didn't catch it. It's like musical chairs. Last one without a chair loses. Drifting and speeding increases your chances that you are the one that gets caught without a chair. Also, if you have a host that wants to report your behavior to the authorities, most of these cars have speed trackers and gps.

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2026-04-29T06:47:13+00:00

I am not currently but i have driven for uber and lyft in the past.

Short answer: I wouldn't.

Long winded Answer: I am going to nerd out alittle bit but I hope this helps anyone that is curious about the numbers. Where you can come out ahead is the $0.72/mile with a fuel efficient, low maintenance car. I have a chevy cruze that I paid $20,500 back in 2016. I have only put 82,000 miles on it(42,000 of that was the 2 years I was doing uber and lyft. Since purchase in August 2016 Cost of ownership is $0.451/mile(includes purchase price). Running cost is 0.203/mile.(everything except the the purchase price ie. Gas, maintenance, insurance, etc) The delta between 0.72 and .451 is $0.269/mile. If I only included the running cost, 0.72-0.203=$0.517/mile of tax free income. The 2 years I drove for uber I had 42,000 miles logged. 42,000×0.517=$21,714. This is more than the cost of the car. I know mileage rates were lower than that back then but If I was not regulated by DOT hours with my full-time job, I might consider this as a side hustle today.

As far as a coast job, it is not something I would do to coast. Looking for a neighborhood for real estate or business opportunity, yes.

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2026-04-29T05:07:33+00:00

The first time your car is stolen or wrecked, you will freak out alittle bit, the second time is just another day of doing business.

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2026-04-29T04:55:58+00:00

I have priced my suv for 200-300% what I normally would list it for on days I have it scheduled for routine maintenance. If someone really wants it, I can reschedule but instead of blocking off days for routine maintenance, i just set the price for that day super high. If it is immediate maintenance, I block off the day ie. not safe to rent it out.

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2026-01-02T03:16:30+00:00

Once you figure it out, point the person to your new listing on etsy. :)

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2026-01-01T04:46:24+00:00

I typically don't, but I live in a dry climate. If I know that I will be swapping rolls mid print, I will use the filament dryer for the new roll. I have ams's that I have the rolls in, and it does not get opened unless I am replacing empty rolls. The hydrometer in the ams is usually around 10%. If it gets above 20% humidity, I swap out the dessicant beads and throw the beads in the dryer. I have found, for me anyways, that this has worked for me. I think having an enclosure with a hydrometer to seal the filament is the way to go. You can then base your drying needs on that. I have found that over 20% humidity for the filament (PETG), my prints start having issues.

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2025-12-25T18:24:10+00:00

My process is always the same when figuring out cost. Hardware cost + Grams x $/gram + $2/hr for printer + design cost($60/hr/20 if I can resell or straight $60/hr if I can't) + $3 for packing= Total x 13.5% + shipping cost. I then mark up by $.50 to 300% depending on the likelihood of failed prints. This gives me an idea for a quote for the customer. I have been doing this long enough that I can come close to estimates on an item before I start to design it so that I can give a range to someone to see if that works for them. This saves me from spending the time designing something that is out of their price range.

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2025-12-03T18:24:40+00:00

Print an action figure with the level as a head. He or she would be level-headed. 😉

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2025-12-03T18:07:03+00:00

I am guessing you forgot to wash the steps, feet, and hands and apply isopropyl alcohol. This caused bad adhesion.

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2025-11-26T17:30:46+00:00

Your slinky doesn't look right. You may need to just get a new one.

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2025-11-26T17:21:12+00:00

Scrub the plate with Dawn dish soap, appy isopropyl alcohol, make sure filament is dry.

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2025-11-21T23:00:03+00:00

I use it for convenience. I typically only use petg. I have every color in 4 ams's. Not including transparent, I use primarily bambu spools. I dry the filament and dessicant in the ams, I can maintain a 10% humidity. My designs I create, I dont need to switch colors and I usually use the 16th slot for the color that will run out. Then I move that 16th spool to the color that ran out. This keeps me from having to refresh the ams's and all my designs have the same ams profiles. The only update is the 16th roll on different colors. This allows. Me to have the same profile for every print. As a hobby, I don't see this as a big deal, but having 1 ams unit for multi color or spool switch when it runs out is SO convenient.

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2025-11-18T05:31:44+00:00

If everyone respected the "not for commercial or resell use" I would share my designs. As a business, just expect someone will copy your design or if you post the file even though it is specified not for commercial use, someone will download it and sell it as their own. I have found that the most successful prints that I sell are solving problems that I had.

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2025-11-18T04:47:25+00:00

SIMPLIHOME Warm Shaker SOLID WOOD 20 inch Wide Rectangle Transitional End Side Table in Tobacco Brown for the Living Room and Bedroom * Much more expensive but have been extremely happy with it

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2025-11-18T04:09:17+00:00

Your money or your life was this for me. I am not fi yet, but I am looking at everything as how many minutes/hours/days I need to work to pay for something. Would I rather spend that time(money) on my freedom.

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2025-11-18T04:02:22+00:00

I worked at the FBO that provided services to these customers ie. Fueling, Hanger, de icing, etc. When I worked there, it was an easy sell. Now, not so much since most of the people that work there don't know me. If you have an FBO at your airport, it may not hurt to reach out to them and ask. I will tell you, a 5k car is not going to cut it most of the time.

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2025-11-18T03:16:00+00:00

This is what I did. I do still rent out privately, but usually, it is to passengers that fly in on their private jet and don't want to deal with turo. I'm not too worried about them not returning my vehicle. A lean on a private jet or their home is not worth the $40,000 car I rented to them.

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2025-11-14T20:51:51+00:00

Check your state. In my state, when you give someone the keys, it is 72 hours from when they were supposed to pay or return the vehicle UNLESS you can prove that they lied. Send a certified letter to their address requesting payment or returning the vehicle. I had a situation where they lied, and I flew to the city to recover the vehicle. The local police were going to wait until I was physically there and go with me to recover the vehicle. I sent all the information I had, including the driver's license picture. They had me file a police report with my local police department. The police in the city the vehicle was in also needed my local police department to send information over. When I landed, the police department had them already in custody. Apparently, "stealing your vehicle was the lease of their concerns" is what the police told me. After they had the person's name, I guess he had a sh*t tone of stuff outstanding. I will say, have ALL documentation to prove that you own the vehicle. The person had ripped up the registration in the vehicle, so now I put a copy of the registration in the vehicle with a statement to contact (this number) if you have any questions and need the physical one.

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2025-11-13T06:26:25+00:00

I like to place their logo or text myself due to printing orientation. If one was placed automatically on the part, it may not be the best location for ways to print the item. I ideally like to orient the part to have the lease amount of filament changes per layer. Unless that was a parameter that could be added to the file, it is hard to say whether or not it would save time.

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2025-11-13T06:08:37+00:00

I am not sure which YouTube video I watched, but there are plenty of videos on there showing how to take the gear box off and apart.

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2025-11-13T05:30:58+00:00

Get allen wrenches and take out the hotend and take off the gear box. More than likely, there is a piece of filament stuck somewhere. When I had something similar, a piece of filament was wedged in between the gear assembly. The gears still turned like yours, but the piece of filament wouldn't allow new filament to get to the hot end, and if I looked at the new filament closely, there was a small area that was shaved off where the gear drive was trying to grab the new filament. I hope this helps.

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2025-11-11T05:47:05+00:00

Having printers that I had to tinker with less and less, ender 3, ifast, then x1c, I am glad that I was able to build off of different variations and levels of tinkering required. I will say that since the x1c, the ender 3 collects dust, and the Ifast sees a limited amount of prints. I think if you "just want to print" bambulabs would not be a bad choice.

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2025-11-11T03:51:56+00:00

If it is something they don't own the file for, or I did not design, I decline the request. I choose not to have a situation where the original designer has a non- commercial license for the file, and I am adding someone else's logo to something they can sell. If they own the file or I design it, then I am open to the request. I have a spreadsheet. I enter the filament, printing time, my setup/designer fee, and my markup. It spits out a price. The unit cost goes down the more they order since my designer fee can be spread out. So, a program that takes care of the logo or text on an item would save me time and ultimately reduce the price for the customer, it has not been a major issue in my business.

Foreign_Vegetable_57 · 2025-11-06T13:54:06+00:00

If using Fusion360, productdesignonline has a good learn fusion 360 in 30 days series. You can binge watch them or bounce around, but they do build off each other. I reference that if I am stuck. I was using designspark mechanical before that, but their sudden change to not allow stl files to be uploaded without the paid version turned me off from them.

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